Turns out, converting a van changes everything about how it’s tested. And nobody tells you this until you’re sat in a waiting room watching your pride and joy get ripped apart by an MOT tester who’s suddenly very interested in that dodgy leisure battery installation.

So here’s what I’ve learned after four campervans, and seven MOTs, and more servicing bills than I’d like to admit. This is the guide I wish I’d had before that first test.

If you’re a van lifer or considering the lifestyle, understanding MOT And Servicing Campervans is crucial for your peace of mind.

Do Campervans Need MOT Tests?

Yes. And sometimes they’re tested differently than you’d expect.

If your campervan is over three years old, it needs an annual MOT — just like any other vehicle. But here’s where it gets interesting: depending on how you’ve converted it and what it’s registered as, you might be tested under different criteria. Understanding MOT And Servicing Campervans can help navigate these complexities.

Your MOT class depends on your V5C registration:

• Class 4 (standard car/van) — Most DIY conversions stay here
• Class 5 (private passenger vehicle) — Some larger conversions
• Class 7 (goods vehicle over 3,000kg) — Bigger coach-built motorhomes

I’ve had vans tested under Class 4 and Class 7. The difference? About forty-five minutes of extra checks and a lot more scrutiny of your conversion work.

When Your Conversion Changes Everything

Here’s what nobody tells you: that beautiful interior you’ve spent months building can fail your MOT.

The tester doesn’t just check your brakes and tyres anymore. If you’ve registered your van as a motor caravan (which most people do for insurance reasons), they’re legally required to inspect your living space. And they’re looking for things that’ll kill you.

What They Actually Check Inside

Gas systems — Every connection, every regulator, every pipe. If you’ve bodged your Propane installation or used jubilee clips instead of proper hose clamps, you’re failing. No exceptions.

Last year, I watched a van fail because the owner had routed their gas line too close to an electrical cable. They’d never have noticed. The MOT tester did.

Electrical installations — Leisure battery secured properly? Cables chafed? Fuses rated correctly? They’ll check. I failed once because my battery wasn’t in a sealed box. £60 fix, but I had to rebook the test.

Sharp edges and protrusions — This one catches everyone. That exposed screw in your ceiling? The corner of your bed frame that sticks out? Potential passenger injuries mean potential MOT failures.

Fire extinguisher and blanket — Not technically required by law, but some testers expect them in motor caravans. I keep both near the door. Cost about £40 total and probably saved me a fail.

Fixed furniture — If your bed or cabinets can move in a crash, that’s a fail. Everything needs securing properly. I use M8 bolts into the chassis ribs, not those crappy self-tappers into thin metal.

The Hidden Costs Nobody Mentions

Standard MOT test? £54.85 is the maximum fee.

But here’s what actually happens with campervans:

• Pre-MOT inspection — £60-£100 at a good garage (absolutely worth it)
• Remedial work — Budget £200-£500 for stuff you didn’t know needed fixing
• Retest fees — Free if you return within 10 working days, but you’re paying for the fixes
• Annual service while you’re there — Another £150-£300 depending on the vehicle

My average campervan MOT “event” costs somewhere between £400-£700 once everything’s said and done. Some years it’s just the test fee. Other years it’s a grand when something major needs replacing.

Common Campervan MOT Failures (From Someone Who’s Had A Few)

1. Corroded Brake Pipes

Campervans live harder lives than regular vans. You’re parking in muddy fields, by the coast, up mountains. All that moisture eats brake pipes for breakfast.

I’ve had one van fail for corroded brake lines. The fix isn’t cheap — expect £150-£400 depending on how many pipes need replacing — but it’s not optional. Brakes are kind of important.

Prevention: Spray your brake lines with ACF-50 or similar corrosion inhibitor every six months. Takes ten minutes and costs about £15 a year.

2. Perished Tyres

Your van might only do 5,000 miles a year, but those tyres are ageing regardless. Rubber perishes. Sidewalls crack. And MOT testers know exactly where to look.

I failed once with tyres that had 7mm of tread but five-year-old sidewalls showing cracks. Four new tyres at £100+ each. Ouch.

Reality check: Replace campervan tyres every 5-6 years regardless of tread depth. And check the date codes — those tyres you bought “new” on eBay might already be three years old.

3. Windscreen Damage

That tiny chip you’ve been ignoring? If it’s in the driver’s line of sight and bigger than 10mm, it’s a fail.

I’ve had two windscreen repairs done at MOT time. One garage tried to charge me £80 for a repair that Autoglass did for free under insurance. Shop around.

4. Emissions Failures (Diesel Vans)

DPF problems are everywhere now. If you’re only doing short trips and your diesel van has a Diesel Particulate Filter, it probably isn’t regenerating properly.

One of my vans failed emissions because the DPF was clogged. The fix? A forced regeneration (£100) and a long motorway drive before the retest. Now I make sure to give it a proper run before MOT time.

5. Dodgy DIY Wiring

This is the big one for self-builds.

If your leisure battery installation isn’t isolated from the vehicle’s electrical system properly, that’s a fail. If you’ve tapped into the main loom without proper connectors, that’s a fail. If your split charge relay is held together with hope and insulation tape, that’s definitely a fail.

I’ve seen vans fail because the owner drilled through the vehicle loom when installing a bed frame. The tester found it. They always find it.

Finding a Campervan-Friendly MOT Station

Not all garages understand conversions. I’ve been to places where the mechanic looks at the interior like I’ve landed a spaceship in his workshop.

What you want:

• A garage that regularly tests motorhomes or campervans
• Testers who understand LPG/Propane systems (if you have gas)
• Somewhere that’ll give you an honest pre-MOT inspection
• A place that can do the remedial work immediately (saves rebooking)

How to find them:

Ring ahead. Ask: “Do you MOT campervans? Do you understand motor caravan conversions?” If they hesitate, go elsewhere.

I use a small independent garage in Yorkshire that specialises in motorhomes. They found £300 worth of issues in a pre-MOT check that would’ve been a nightmare to fix at test time. Worth the 40-mile drive.

Servicing Schedules: What Actually Needs Doing

Your manufacturer’s service schedule still applies. Converting a van doesn’t change the fact that it’s still a Fiat Ducato or VW Transporter underneath all your lovely wood cladding.

Standard intervals:

• Oil and filter — Every 12 months or 12,000 miles (I do mine at 10k)
• Air filter — Every 24 months or 24,000 miles
• Fuel filter — Every 24 months or 30,000 miles (diesel)
• Brake fluid — Every 2 years (everyone ignores this, don’t)
• Coolant — Every 3-4 years or per manufacturer schedule

Additional campervan-specific servicing:

• Leisure battery check — Every 6 months (load test annually)
• Gas system inspection — Annually by a qualified Gas Safe engineer (legally required if you have gas)
• Water system sanitisation — Every 6 months minimum (more if you’re full-timing)
• Solar panel connections — Check annually for corrosion
• Roof vent seals — Inspect every spring (leaks are expensive)

The Gas Certificate You Legally Need

If you’ve got a gas cooker, heater, or fridge in your van, you need a Gas Safety Certificate for insurance and legal purposes.

Cost? £80-£150 depending on your location and system complexity.

A Gas Safe registered engineer inspects everything, pressure tests the system, and issues a certificate. It’s valid for 12 months.

I had one installation fail inspection because I’d used the wrong type of hose. The engineer made me replace it before he’d sign off. He was right — I’d bought automotive fuel hose instead of proper LPG hose. Could’ve been catastrophic.

Find engineers at: gasafe.org.uk (don’t use someone who isn’t registered)

What I Wish I’d Known Before My First MOT

Book early. MOTs get busy in March and September when registrations spike. Book yours for a random Tuesday in November and you’ll get better attention.

Get a pre-MOT inspection. Seriously. Spending £60 to find problems before the test is worth it. You can fix issues on your own schedule instead of panicking in the garage car park.

Take photos of your conversion. If they question something about your build, having photos of the installation process helps. I keep a folder on my phone showing how everything was installed properly.

Don’t mod the vehicle just before MOT. I installed a new leisure battery three weeks before an MOT and didn’t secure it properly. Failed. If you’re making changes, do them right after your test, not before.

Ask questions. If your van fails for something you don’t understand, ask the tester to explain it. Most are happy to show you exactly what the problem is.

Keep your paperwork. Every receipt, every gas certificate, every service record. When you sell the van, this stuff adds value. And if you’re pulled over by police or DVSA, having your gas certificate and receipts proves you’ve done things properly.

The DVLA Minefield: Registration Changes

This is where people get tangled up.

If you convert a van into a campervan, you should tell the DVLA. They’ll change your V5C from “panel van” to “motor caravan.” This affects your insurance, your MOT testing criteria, and sometimes your road tax.

To get motor caravan status, you need:

• A fixed bed
• A fresh water storage tank
• A sink with waste water tank
• A cooking facility
• Storage facilities

Seems simple. But the DVLA interprets this however they feel like on any given Tuesday.

I’ve had one application accepted in three weeks, another rejected twice before they approved it six months later. Same conversion standard on both vans.

Should you bother?

Depends. Motor caravan insurance is usually cheaper. But you’re opening yourself up to more scrutiny at MOT time. If your conversion is solid and legal, do it. If you’ve bodged something, maybe stay registered as a van and get it fixed first.

DIY Service vs Garage: What I Actually Do

I do myself:

• Oil and filter changes (£40 vs £120 at a garage)
• Air filter replacement (takes five minutes)
• Fluid level checks
• Leisure battery maintenance
• Water system cleaning
• Basic brake inspection

I pay someone else for:

• Brake work (I don’t mess with brakes)
• Suspension components
• Anything involving the DPF or emissions system
• MOT welding if needed
• Gas system certification
• Anything I’ve never done before

Know your limits. Some things aren’t worth learning the hard way.

The Bottom Line

Budget £500-£700 annually for MOT and servicing combined. Some years it’ll be less. Some years it’ll be more when your clutch decides to die two days before the test (true story, don’t ask).

Get a good garage that understands campervans. Get your gas system certified annually. Keep on top of basic maintenance. Don’t ignore warning lights just because you’re living the vanlife dream.

Your campervan isn’t just your transport. It’s your home. Look after it properly, or it’ll fail you when you’re 300 miles from anywhere with no phone signal and a storm rolling in.

Been there. Done that. Learned expensive lessons.

Where to Find Qualified Help

Gas Safe Register: gasafe.org.uk — Find qualified gas engineers near you

DVLA guidance: gov.uk/government/organisations/driver-and-vehicle-licensing-agency — Registration changes and motor caravan criteria

MOT history check: check-mot.service.gov.uk — See any vehicle’s MOT history (useful when buying used)

NCC certification: thencc.org.uk — If you want your conversion professionally verified (not required but adds value)

And if you’re unsure about anything with your conversion, just ask. There’s no stupid questions when it comes to keeping your van legal and safe.

Just expensive mistakes if you don’t.