Category

Theft Prevention

Category

My van was broken into twice in the same year. The first time they smashed the passenger window and stole my laptop. The second time they tried to drill the door lock at 3am while I was sleeping inside.

That second one was terrifying. Not Instagram-friendly. Not part of the vanlife dream. Just me, alone in a Tesco car park in Manchester, listening to someone trying to break into my home while I held a hammer and dialled 999.

Police arrived in twelve minutes. The scrotes legged it. But I didn’t sleep properly for a month afterwards.

So here’s everything I’ve learned about keeping yourself and your van safe. Not paranoid. Not fearful. Just prepared. Because the vanlife dream includes some grim realities nobody posts about.

Understanding Campervan Security And Safety is essential for every van owner.

The Reality of Campervan Crime and the Importance of Campervan Security And Safety

Let’s start with the uncomfortable truth: campervans are targets.

Why?

  • Expensive vehicles (£15,000-£80,000)
  • Often contain thousands in equipment (solar panels, batteries, bikes, surfboards)
  • Usually parked in isolated spots
  • Owners might be inside (vulnerable)
  • Easy to identify and track

What actually gets stolen:

My insurance broker told me the top claims are:

  1. Catalytic converters (diesel vans, takes 2 minutes to cut out)
  2. Bikes and roof boxes
  3. Power tools left in vans
  4. Sat navs and electronics
  5. Entire vehicles (older VWs especially)

Where it happens:

Not where you’d think. My break-ins? One in Manchester city centre, one in a “nice” area of Birmingham. Both supposedly safe car parks.

The dodgiest wild camping spots I’ve used? Never had an issue.

Crime is opportunistic and urban. Thieves want quick access and escape routes, not isolated moorland car parks.

Physical Security: What Actually Works

I’ve spent about £1,200 on security over five years. Some of it was essential. Some was expensive theatre that made me feel safer but didn’t actually help.

Door Locks & Deadlocks

Your factory van locks? Shockingly easy to defeat.

The problem: Most panel vans use the same lock mechanism. Thieves have master keys. Or they drill the lock cylinder in about 30 seconds.

Solutions that work:

Deadlocks (£150-£250 per door, professionally fitted):

I use Armourshell or Mul-T-Lock deadlocks on both side doors and rear doors. They’re mechanical, secondary locks that engage separate lock points.

Saved me during that second break-in attempt. They tried drilling the main lock, got through it, but the deadlock held. Bought me enough time for the police to arrive.

Slamlocks (£120-£200 per door):

These lock automatically when you close the door. Great if you’re constantly in and out. I use them on my rear doors.

Brands I trust: Armourshell, Mul-T-Lock, Locks 4 Vans, Thatcham-approved options

DIY or professional? Professional. This isn’t the time to bodge it. Find a mobile locksmith who specialises in van security. Costs more but they’ll fit it properly and give you insurance-friendly certification.

Steering Locks & Pedal Boxes

Steering wheel locks: I use a Disklok (£120-£180 depending on size). It’s massive, bright yellow, obvious.

Does it actually stop theft? No. A determined thief can cut through your steering wheel in 60 seconds.

But it’s a visual deterrent. Thieves see it and move to an easier target.

Pedal boxes (£100-£150): Metal box that covers your pedals. Makes it harder to drive even if they get in.

I don’t use one. Too much faff for daily life. But if you’re parking in dodgy areas regularly, consider it.

Gear stick locks: Waste of money in my experience. Too easy to defeat.

Alarms & Immobilisers

Factory alarms: Usually rubbish on converted vans. They don’t cover the living space and can be defeated easily.

Aftermarket alarms (£200-£600 fitted):

I use a Thatcham Category 1 alarm with:

  • Perimeter sensors (detects door/window opening)
  • Movement sensors (detects someone inside)
  • Tilt sensors (detects the van being lifted/towed)
  • Battery backup (still works if main battery disconnected)

Does it work?

The movement sensor saved me once. Someone smashed my window in Bristol, reached in, alarm went off, they ran. Didn’t get anything.

But alarms have limitations. They’re loud and annoying for everyone nearby. In urban areas, people ignore them. And you’ll set it off yourself constantly if you’re moving around inside.

Immobilisers: Most modern vans have factory immobilisers. But trackers are better for recovery.

GPS Trackers

This is the big one for actually recovering your van if it’s stolen.

I use a Smartrack S5 D-iD (£350 + £120 annual subscription):

  • Live GPS tracking
  • Alerts if van moves without my phone present
  • Insurance-approved (some insurers insist on trackers for expensive conversions)
  • Police can track it in real-time if stolen

Alternatives:

  • Thatcham Category 5 trackers (£250-£500 + annual fees)
  • Apple AirTags (£29 each) — hidden in multiple locations as backup (they’re not insurance-approved but cheap and effective)
  • Budget option: Rewire Tracker (£35 one-time, no subscription, basic but works)

Real world effectiveness:

A mate had his VW T5 stolen from his driveway. Tracker located it within 45 minutes. Police recovered it before they could strip it. Saved him £30,000.

Another friend? No tracker. Van stolen. Never seen again.

For me, it’s non-negotiable now.

Window Protection

Security film (£100-£200 for DIY installation):

Transparent film applied to windows. Makes them harder to smash. Won’t stop a determined thief but slows them down.

I’ve got it on my side windows. Rear windows I use blackout panels at night anyway.

Mesh grilles: Some people fit internal mesh grilles. They work but make the van feel like a prison.

The reality: If someone wants through your window, they’re getting through. The goal is making it take long enough that they give up or get noticed.

Catalytic Converter Protection

This is huge right now. Cat theft is rampant.

Why they’re targeted: Contains precious metals (platinum, palladium, rhodium). Worth £50-£400 to scrap. Takes 2 minutes to cut out.

Protection options:

Catloc or similar cage (£200-£400 fitted): Metal cage welded around the cat. Makes it much harder to cut.

I had one fitted after my neighbour’s van got hit three times in six months.

Cat marking: Police offer free marking with forensic spray. Makes it traceable and harder to sell.

Park smart: Cats are stolen when you’re parked on the street overnight. Use lit areas, close to windows, or park with the cat against a wall/kerb.

What Doesn’t Work (Security Theatre)

Cheap window etching: “This van is tracked” stickers. Thieves ignore them.

Dummy cameras: They know. The real ones have visible wiring and power sources.

“Beware of the dog” signs when you clearly don’t have a dog: Again, they’re not stupid.

Cable locks for bikes on a roof rack: Cut in 10 seconds with bolt cutters.

Over-reliance on one security measure: Layers work. Single solutions don’t.

Valuables: What to Secure and How

Rule one: Don’t leave stuff visible. Not even rubbish bags or old clothes. Anything visible suggests there’s valuable stuff hidden.

What I Keep Hidden

Bikes: I keep mine inside the van. Roof racks get targeted constantly. If you must use external racks, use serious locks (Kryptonite New York chain, £80-£120) and take the bikes inside overnight.

Laptops/tablets/phones: Never left in the van when I’m out. Ever. They’re in my backpack or locked in a hidden safe.

Power tools: If you carry them, hidden storage or take them out when parked anywhere dodgy.

Solar panels/roof equipment: Can’t really hide these but make sure they’re bolted securely (security bolts with unique heads, £15 for a set).

Hidden Safes

I’ve got a small safe bolted to the van chassis, hidden inside a cupboard (£80 for a decent one).

In it:

  • Passport copies
  • Emergency cash (£200)
  • Spare bank card
  • Important documents
  • USB backup drive

Where NOT to hide a safe: Under the bed (first place they look), in obvious cupboards, anywhere easily accessible.

Good hiding spots: Behind interior panels, in fake floor sections, inside false furniture bottoms.

Decoy Tactics

This sounds paranoid but it works.

I keep a cheap old phone (£20) in the centre console. If someone smashes the window, they grab it and run. They think they’ve won. My actual phone is hidden.

Same with a decoy wallet with expired cards and a tenner in it.

Real thieves will take the obvious stuff and leave quickly. They’re not doing forensic searches.

Personal Safety: The Bit Nobody Talks About

This is harder to quantify than physical security. But it’s arguably more important.

Parking Location Safety

Red flags that I avoid:

  • Completely isolated spots with no phone signal (can’t call for help)
  • Urban areas with groups of people hanging around
  • Places with lots of litter/dumped rubbish (indicates nobody cares what happens there)
  • Anywhere that feels wrong (trust your gut)

Green flags I look for:

  • Other motorhomes/campervans present (safety in numbers)
  • Nearby houses (witnesses)
  • CCTV visible (even fake ones deter)
  • Decent phone signal
  • Easy escape route (not blocked in)

The late-night arrival test: If I arrive somewhere after dark and it feels dodgy, I drive somewhere else. Even if that’s a 24-hour supermarket car park.

Pride isn’t worth getting attacked for.

Solo Travel Safety (Especially Solo Women)

I’m a bloke. So I asked my partner (who’s done solo vanlife) what she wishes she’d known:

Her advice:

  • Tell someone where you’re parking every night (she texts her sister her location)
  • Keep your phone charged with a backup power bank
  • Have a personal alarm (£8-£15, proper loud ones)
  • Learn where your nearest safe spaces are (police stations, hospitals, 24hr petrol stations)
  • Don’t advertise you’re alone (park with curtains closed, no “solo traveller” stickers)
  • Trust your instincts ALWAYS — feeling unsafe is reason enough to leave

Creepy situations she’s dealt with:

  • Men knocking on her van at night asking if she’s “okay” (she wasn’t in distress, they were being creepy)
  • Being followed from a parking spot after someone watched her arrive
  • Unwanted attention at campsites from men who see a solo woman as vulnerable

Her responses:

  • Fake phone calls to “boyfriend” when people are around
  • Move immediately if anyone makes her uncomfortable
  • Keep her keys in her hand while sleeping (quick escape if needed)
  • Uses a door wedge alarm (£12, screams if door is opened)

Is solo travel safe for women?

Yes. But requires more awareness and preparation. Most vanlife women do it and are fine. But the risks are real.

What to Do If You Feel Threatened

If someone’s trying to break in while you’re inside:

  1. Make noise. Shout “I’m calling the police” loudly
  2. Actually call the police (999 in emergencies)
  3. Turn on all lights, make it obvious you’re awake and aware
  4. If you have an alarm, set it off manually
  5. Don’t confront them directly unless you absolutely have to
  6. Video record if safe to do (evidence for police)
  7. Be ready to drive away if possible

If someone’s acting aggressively:

  • Don’t engage or escalate
  • Get back in your van, lock doors, drive away
  • Note vehicle descriptions, people descriptions
  • Report to police (101 for non-emergency)

If you’re being followed:

  • Drive to a police station, fire station, or 24hr petrol station
  • Don’t drive home or to your regular parking spot
  • Call police while driving (hands-free)
  • Note the vehicle registration

Keeping Your Wits About You

I carry:

  • Personal alarm on my keychain (£10)
  • Torch (also useful for general life, £20 for decent one)
  • Mobile phone always charged
  • Emergency whistle (£3, ridiculous but effective at attracting attention)

I don’t carry:

  • Weapons (illegal in UK, can be used against you)
  • Anything I’d be tempted to use in anger (you’ll end up in more trouble than the attacker)

Self-defence:

If you want proper self-defence training, do it. But the reality is: avoid confrontation, run away, call for help. That’s the safest strategy.

Fire Safety: The Silent Killer

Fire in a van is terrifying. You’re in a metal box full of flammable materials with potentially dodgy gas and electrical systems.

What Causes Van Fires

Gas leaks: Poorly installed gas systems, perished hoses, faulty regulators

Electrical faults: Dodgy wiring, overloaded circuits, cheap solar controllers

Cooking accidents: Unattended stoves, grease fires, tip-overs

Diesel heaters: Incorrect installation, fuel leaks, blocked exhausts

Lithium battery failures: Rare but catastrophic when they go wrong

Fire Prevention

Get your gas system certified annually (£80-£120 by a Gas Safe engineer). Non-negotiable.

Check your electrical system regularly:

  • Look for melted insulation
  • Check for hot spots on wiring
  • Ensure all fuses are correctly rated
  • Don’t overload circuits

Never leave cooking unattended. I’ve nearly started two fires being distracted by beautiful views while cooking.

Install smoke and CO detectors:

  • Smoke detector (£8-£15) — mains-powered or battery
  • Carbon monoxide detector (£15-£25) — must be battery or 12V powered
  • Replace batteries annually (I do mine every New Year’s Day)

Keep a fire extinguisher accessible (£15-£40 depending on size):

  • ABC dry powder (works on most fire types)
  • 1kg minimum, 2kg better
  • Mount near exit, easily reachable
  • Check pressure gauge annually

Fire blanket (£8-£15):

  • For smothering cooking fires
  • Mount near your stove
  • Learn how to use it properly

Escape Planning

Know your exits:

  • Both side doors should open from inside without keys
  • Rear doors same
  • Windows that can be kicked out if needed

Practice emergency exit: Sounds daft but I’ve actually crawled out of my van in darkness just to know I can do it. Takes 15 seconds. Worth doing once.

Keep exit paths clear: Don’t pile storage in front of doors at night.

Sleep with keys nearby: In case you need to drive away quickly.

Breakdown Safety

What I carry:

  • Jump starter pack (£40-£80) — saved me a few times
  • Spare fuses (£5 for a kit)
  • Spare bulbs (£10)
  • Basic tools (£50 for decent set)
  • Hi-vis jacket (£5)
  • Warning triangle (£4)
  • First aid kit (£15-£30)
  • Spare fuel (5L in jerry can, £20)

Recovery service:

I use AA (£120 annually for Van Cover). They’ve recovered me three times. Worth every penny.

Consider homestart cover too (recovers you even if you break down at “home” i.e. wherever you’re parked).

Breaking Down Safely

If you break down on a motorway:

  1. Get to hard shoulder/emergency area if possible
  2. Exit left side away from traffic
  3. Get well behind barriers
  4. Don’t attempt repairs on the motorway
  5. Call for help
  6. Wait in safe location (not in the van if possible)

If you break down on rural roads:

  1. Get van off the road if safe
  2. Turn on hazards
  3. Place warning triangle 50m back
  4. Call for help
  5. Stay with van if safe, or walk to safe location

Never:

  • Attempt repairs in dangerous locations
  • Stand in the road
  • Accept help from random people (wait for official recovery)

Medical & First Aid

My first aid kit contains:

  • Plasters/bandages (various sizes)
  • Antiseptic wipes
  • Painkillers (paracetamol, ibuprofen)
  • Antihistamines
  • Rehydration sachets
  • Tweezers/scissors
  • Medical tape
  • Burn gel
  • Triangular bandage
  • Disposable gloves

Cost: About £30 to build a good kit.

I also carry:

  • Prescription meds (28-day supply)
  • Emergency contact list
  • Medical info card (allergies, blood type, emergency contacts)
  • NHS app downloaded with medical records

Remote area considerations:

If you’re parking in the middle of nowhere regularly, consider:

  • Advanced first aid course (£80-£150 for 2-day course)
  • Satellite communicator (Garmin inReach, £250 + subscription) — for areas with no phone signal
  • More comprehensive medical kit (£80-£150)

Scams & Sketchy Situations

Scams I’ve encountered:

The “helpful stranger” scam: Someone points out a “problem” with your van (flat tyre, leaking fluid). While you’re checking, their mate empties your van or steals from inside.

Solution: Thank them, check when you’re ready, don’t leave van unlocked.

The distraction technique: Someone knocks asking for directions/help while someone else tries your doors or takes from roof racks.

Solution: Talk through closed door, don’t get distracted, never leave doors unlocked.

The campsite “official”: Someone in a hi-vis knocks claiming to be collecting campsite fees. They’re not.

Solution: Always get receipts, verify with actual campsite office, don’t hand over cash to random people.

Fake parking fines: “Fines” placed on windscreen that look official but are actually scams to get your card details.

Solution: Real fines come from the council or private company with proper letterhead. Check online before paying anything.

Insurance Considerations

You need proper campervan insurance. Van insurance doesn’t cover your conversion or living in it.

What to look for:

  • Agreed value or market value
  • New-for-old replacement for your conversion
  • Personal belongings cover (usually £1,000-£5,000)
  • Security requirements clearly stated
  • UK and European cover

My insurance requires:

  • Thatcham-approved alarm
  • GPS tracker
  • Deadlocks on all doors
  • Vehicle kept in secure location overnight when at home

If you don’t meet these requirements and claim? They can refuse to pay.

Cost: £400-£900 annually depending on van, conversion value, your age, location.

Specialist insurers: Comfort, Safeguard, LV, Adrian Flux all do campervan policies.

What to Do If the Worst Happens

Your van is stolen:

  1. Report to police immediately (999)
  2. Call your tracker company (if you have one)
  3. Notify your insurance within 24 hours
  4. Cancel any direct debits for the vehicle
  5. Inform DVLA
  6. Check local sales sites/Facebook for your van

Your van is broken into:

  1. Don’t touch anything (forensics)
  2. Photograph the damage
  3. Call police (101 or 999 if in progress)
  4. Get crime reference number
  5. List stolen items with serial numbers/photos
  6. Notify insurance
  7. Get repairs done (keep receipts)

You’re attacked or threatened:

  1. Call police (999)
  2. Get to safety
  3. Note descriptions/vehicle details
  4. Don’t pursue them
  5. Get medical attention if needed
  6. Report even if you don’t want to pursue it (helps track crime patterns)

The Balance Between Safe and Paranoid

Here’s the thing: you can’t eliminate all risk. You can minimise it.

I’ve done thousands of miles enjoying vanlife across the UK and Europe. I’ve had two break-ins, one attempted break-in, and countless moments where I’ve felt uneasy.

But I’ve also had hundreds of amazing nights in incredible locations where nothing bad happened.

Don’t live in fear. But don’t be naive either.

My actual security routine:

Every night:

  • Close curtains/blackout blinds
  • Lock deadlocks on all doors
  • Activate alarm
  • Check phone is charged
  • Keep keys within reach

Takes 2 minutes. Becomes habit.

Every departure:

  • Steering wheel lock on
  • Valuables hidden or removed
  • Nothing visible in van
  • Check doors locked

Takes 3 minutes.

Regular maintenance:

  • Monthly alarm test
  • Quarterly security equipment check
  • Annual gas certificate
  • Tracker subscription maintained

The rest of the time? I’m not thinking about it. I’m living the life I wanted. Exploring. Enjoying. Being free.

Security is the foundation that lets you do that without constant worry.

Final Thoughts

That night when someone tried to break in while I was inside? It was horrible.

But you know what happened the next night? I parked somewhere better. I activated all my security. And I slept fine.

Because I’d learned. I’d improved. I’d adapted.

That’s what this is about. Not fear. Preparation.

Your van is your home. Protect it like one. But don’t let fear stop you living in it.

Useful Resources

Security equipment:

  • Van Vault — vanvault.co.uk (secure storage)
  • Locks 4 Vans — locks4vans.co.uk (deadlocks, alarms)
  • Smartrack — smartrack.co.uk (GPS trackers)

Personal safety:

  • Suzy Lamplugh Trust — suzylamplugh.org (personal safety advice)
  • Ask for ANI — scheme at participating venues if you feel unsafe

Emergency numbers:

  • Emergency: 999
  • Non-emergency police: 101
  • NHS: 111

Insurance:

  • Compare campervan insurers before committing
  • Read the security requirements carefully
  • Ensure your conversion value is properly covered

Stay safe out there. The adventure’s worth protecting.