I’ve built four campervans. The first layout was so bad I couldn’t actually cook standing up. The second looked beautiful in photos but was completely impractical for real life. The third was better but I still couldn’t fit bikes inside without removing the bed. The fourth? Finally got it mostly right. This journey has taught me the importance of a Perfect Campervan Layout.

Between those four builds, I’ve redesigned layouts completely three times, made £850 worth of furniture I had to scrap and rebuild, and learned that what looks perfect on paper often doesn’t work when you’re trying to cook pasta while your partner is trying to get changed and the dog is trying to exist in the same space.

This guide is everything I wish I’d known before I drew my first layout plan. Not the theory. Not the Instagram-perfect versions. The actual reality of living in a small metal box and how to design a space that works for your real life, not someone else’s aesthetic.

This guide is everything I wish I’d known before I drew my first layout plan. Not the theory. Not the Instagram-perfect versions. The actual reality of living in a small metal box and how to design a space that works for your real life, not someone else’s aesthetic. A good design is the key to achieving the Perfect Campervan Layout.

Why Layout Design Matters More Than Anything Else

Here’s the truth: you can fix bad insulation. You can upgrade your electrical system. You can repaint walls. But a fundamentally bad layout? That requires ripping everything out and starting again.

I know because I’ve done it. Twice.

Van #2: Beautiful L-shaped kitchen, gorgeous overhead storage, lovely dinette area. Completely useless. I couldn’t stand up where I needed to. The dinette ate space we never used. The overhead storage blocked the window. After six months of frustration, I ripped out £650 worth of furniture and rebuilt it.

Van #3: Much better, but I built permanent furniture everywhere. Looked great. Then we got bikes and realized we couldn’t fit them inside without dismantling half the interior. Spent another £200 making furniture modular.

What a good layout does:

• Lets you actually live comfortably in the space
• Makes daily tasks easy (cooking, sleeping, changing clothes)
• Stores everything you actually need
• Adapts to different trips (weekend vs. month-long)
• Doesn’t waste space on things you never use
• Works for YOUR specific needs (not Instagram’s)

What a bad layout does:

• Forces you into awkward positions constantly
• Makes simple tasks frustrating
• Leaves you with nowhere to put essential items
• Looks great but doesn’t function well
• Follows someone else’s idea of perfect

Layout design isn’t creative expression. It’s practical problem-solving. The best layout is the one you forget about because everything just works.

Understanding Your Real Constraints

Before you draw a single line, understand what you’re actually working with.

Van Size Reality Check

I’ve worked with different sizes. Here’s the usable space reality:

VW Transporter T5/T6 (SWB)

• Cargo area: 1.7m long x 1.7m wide x 1.4m high (standard roof)
• Usable space: About 4 cubic metres
• Standing height: No (unless you install a pop-top)
• Reality: Cosy. Very cosy. Works for weekends or one person full-time.

Ford Transit Custom (MWB, medium roof)

• Cargo area: 2.6m long x 1.7m wide x 1.75m high
• Usable space: About 7.7 cubic metres
• Standing height: Yes, if you’re under 1.83m (6ft)
• Reality: Sweet spot for most people. Enough space without being massive.

Mercedes Sprinter (MWB, high roof)

• Cargo area: 3.2m long x 1.8m wide x 1.9m high
• Usable space: About 11 cubic metres
• Standing height: Yes, properly (2m internal height)
• Reality: Luxurious amount of space. Pain to park. Overkill for weekends.

Mercedes Sprinter (LWB, high roof)

• Cargo area: 4.3m long x 1.8m wide x 1.9m high
• Usable space: About 14.7 cubic metres
• Standing height: Yes, everywhere
• Reality: This is a small house. Also won’t fit most UK car parks.

What size do you actually need?

I’ve lived in a SWB Transporter and now have a MWB Transit Custom. Here’s my honest assessment:

Choose SWB if:

• Weekend trips only (max 1-2 weeks)
• Solo or couple without pets
• You prioritize city parking and stealth
• You’re okay without standing height
• Budget is tight (smaller = cheaper everything)

Choose MWB if:

• Regular trips (weeks at a time)
• Couple with dog, or small family
• You want standing height
• You want a real kitchen and storage
• You’ll use it 30+ nights per year

Choose LWB if:

• Full-time or near full-time living
• You want a wet room/toilet
• You need office space inside
• You’re okay with parking challenges
• You have the budget (bigger = more expensive everything)

My recommendation: For most UK-based people doing serious weekends and occasional longer trips, MWB with medium-to-high roof is the sweet spot. Big enough to be comfortable, small enough to be practical.

Understanding Your Actual Usage

Before you design anything, honestly answer these questions:

How will you actually use the van?

• Weekend trips (2-3 nights)
• Week-long holidays
• Extended tours (2-4 weeks)
• Full-time living
• Occasional camping (10-20 nights/year)

Be honest. Most people design for full-time living but use it 15 nights a year. That’s wasted space and money.

Who’s using it?

• Solo
• Couple
• Family with kids
• With pets
• Friends occasionally

What activities?

• Beach camping (need outdoor shower, sand management)
• Mountain adventures (need bike storage, hiking gear space)
• Festivals (need party supplies, more seating)
• Work travel (need desk space, good lighting, power)
• Photography trips (need gear storage, work surface)

What season?

• Summer only (different needs than winter)
• Year-round (need serious heating, insulation matters more)
• Shoulder season mostly (spring/autumn – easier)

I designed van #1 for long weekends. I used it maybe 40 nights that year. All that space for a shower and toilet? Wasted. Van #4 is designed for 80-100 nights per year with occasional longer trips. Much more practical.

Physical Constraints You Can’t Change

Your height matters enormously.

I’m 1.78m (5’10”). My wife is 1.5m (5’9″). We can both stand in a medium roof Transit Custom. Just.

My mate is 1.93m (6’4″). He can’t stand in anything except a high roof. This fundamentally changes layouts – if you can’t stand up, you build differently.

Your mobility matters.

Can you:

• Climb over furniture to get to the bed?
• Squat down to access under-bed storage?
• Reach overhead cupboards?
• Step up into the van easily?

I’m reasonably fit but my knees aren’t great. I avoid layouts requiring constant climbing over things.

Your sleeping position matters.

• Side sleeper: Need minimum 1.2m width, prefer 1.4m
• Back sleeper: Can manage 1.1m width
• Couple: Need 1.4m minimum, 1.6m is comfortable
• Restless sleeper: Want space to spread out

Your cooking habits matter.

• Rarely cook: Tiny kitchen is fine
• Cook proper meals: Need worktop space, storage for ingredients
• Coffee only: Just need a kettle and mug storage
• Breakfast cook: Need space for multiple pans

Don’t design a massive kitchen if you eat out most of the time. Don’t design a tiny one if you actually cook.

The Essential Zones (And How Much Space They Actually Need)

Every van needs certain functional areas. Here’s the reality of how much space each actually requires.

Zone 1: Sleeping Area (Priority 1)

You spend 8 hours here every night. Get this wrong and everything else is miserable.

Minimum dimensions:

• Solo: 1.9m x 1.0m (tight but manageable)
• Comfortable solo: 1.9m x 1.2m
• Couple minimum: 1.9m x 1.3m (we tried this – too narrow)
• Couple comfortable: 1.9m x 1.4m
• Couple luxury: 1.9m x 1.6m
• With dog/kids: 1.9m x 1.6m minimum

Don’t compromise on length. 1.9m is absolute minimum unless you’re very short. I’m 1.78m and need every bit of 1.9m.

Bed position options:

Across the back (what I use):

• Pros: Uses full width (1.7m+), easy access, loads of storage underneath, simple to build
• Cons: Takes up 1.9m of length, limits rear access
• Best for: MWB and LWB vans where length isn’t critical

Side-to-side along one wall:

• Pros: Leaves rear open, can fold up for garage space, versatile
• Cons: Limited width (max 1.2m typically), difficult to make comfortable for couples
• Best for: Solo travelers, SWB vans, people who need bike storage

Rock and roll bed:

• Pros: Doubles as seating, quick conversion, saves space during day
• Cons: Expensive (£1,200-£2,500), uncomfortable compared to proper bed, limits rear door access
• Best for: Weekend warriors who want day-time seating space

Pull-out/extending bed:

• Pros: Saves daytime space, can create larger sleeping area
• Cons: Complex mechanism, stuff must be cleared before sleeping, more things to break
• Best for: People who use van during day for working/living

Roof pop-top bed:

• Pros: Doesn’t use floor space, kids love it, adds standing height
• Cons: Expensive (£2,500-£5,000 installed), cold in winter, can’t use in high winds
• Best for: Families, people who need maximum floor space

My experience:

Van #1: Rock and roll bed (£1,450)

• Uncomfortable. Really uncomfortable. The cushions were hard, the frame was uneven, and I couldn’t get a proper mattress on it.
• Useful as seating but we barely used it as seating.
• Sold it for £800 and built a fixed bed.

Van #2-4: Fixed bed across the back (1.9m x 1.4m)

• Cost: £180 in materials
• Comfortable with a proper 10cm memory foam mattress (£285)
• Massive storage underneath (split into sections with plastic boxes)
• Can remove front section (4 bolts) for bike access if needed
• No regrets. This is what I’d build again.

Bed construction tips:

What worked:

• 18mm ply base
• 47mm x 75mm timber frame
• Slats across the top (18 slats, 50mm spacing)
• Allows airflow under mattress (prevents moisture)
• Front section bolted (removable), back section screwed (permanent)

What didn’t work:

• Solid ply base (no airflow – mattress got damp)
• Too-narrow slats (sagged under weight)
• Not securing it properly (moved while driving – terrifying on motorway)

Zone 2: Kitchen (Priority 2)

You need to cook. Even if it’s just heating beans and boiling water for coffee.

Minimum kitchen:

• Worktop: 60cm x 40cm
• Hob: Two burner (you don’t need four)
• Storage: 30L for food and cooking equipment
• Sink: 30cm diameter (or skip it entirely)

Comfortable kitchen:

• Worktop: 90cm x 50cm
• Hob: Two burner gas or single induction
• Storage: 60L minimum (cupboard + drawer)
• Sink: 35cm diameter with draining board

Luxury kitchen:

• Worktop: 120cm x 50cm
• Hob: Three burner or two-burner + grill
• Storage: 100L+ (multiple cupboards)
• Sink: 40cm double bowl
• Fridge: 40L+ compressor (separate from kitchen but counts)

What you DON’T need:

An oven. I’ve built one (van #2). Used it four times. It heated the van unbearably, used loads of gas, and took up space I needed for storage. Ripped it out after a year.

A four-burner hob. Unless you’re cooking for six people regularly, two burners is plenty. I cook full roast dinners on two burners. Stew in one pan, veg in the other. Easy.

A massive sink. I’ve had everything from a 25cm bowl to a 40cm double-bowl sink. The sweet spot is 30-35cm single bowl. Big enough to wash pans, small enough not to dominate the worktop.

Kitchen layout options:

Side kitchen (galley style):

• Kitchen units along one side
• Usually 80-120cm long
• Worktop, hob, sink in a line
• Storage underneath

Pros: Efficient workflow, everything in reach, easy to build Cons: Can block one side of van, limits width for other things

L-shaped kitchen:

• Kitchen along one side and across the back
• More worktop space
• Can separate wet (sink) and cooking zones

Pros: Loads of worktop, feels spacious, very functional Cons: Takes up lots of floor space, expensive to build, limits sleeping area

Rear kitchen:

• Kitchen across the back near doors
• Access from rear or from inside
• Popular in panel vans

Pros: Easy loading, can cook outside with doors open, leaves living area clear Cons: Bed must be elsewhere, less convenient in bad weather, security issues with rear doors open

My experience:

Van #1: Tiny side kitchen (60cm long)

• Worktop: 60cm x 40cm
• One-burner camping stove
• No sink (used a washing up bowl)
• Barely adequate. Constantly running out of space. Everything was cramped.

Van #2: L-shaped kitchen (looked amazing)

• Worktop: 90cm along side + 80cm across back
• Two-burner hob + oven
• 35cm sink with draining board
• Loads of storage
• Problem: Took up so much space the bed was cramped. The oven was useless. The L-shape meant I was always in someone’s way.
• Ripped it out after 6 months.

Van #3-4: Side kitchen (90cm long, optimized)

• Worktop: 90cm x 50cm
• Two-burner gas hob
• 32cm round sink
• Cupboard underneath + one drawer
• Perfect. Enough space to cook properly. Not so big it dominates the van. Would build this again.

Kitchen placement relative to other zones:

Think about workflow:

1. Food storage → 2. Prep area → 3. Cooking → 4. Eating → 5. Washing up

My current layout:

• Food storage in cupboard below and overhead
• Prep area on worktop (60cm clear space)
• Hob at end of worktop
• Sink next to hob
• Seating area opposite (eating zone)
• Washing up in sink, dishes drain on worktop

This flows naturally. I’m not constantly moving around the van.

Fridge placement:

Separate decision but affects kitchen layout.

Options:

• Under worktop (takes cupboard space)
• Under seat (takes seating/storage space)
• Slide-out drawer (expensive but excellent access)
• Separate location entirely

I have mine under the seating area opposite the kitchen. 20L compressor fridge (Alpicool C20, £185). Easy access, doesn’t block anything, stays cool in its ventilated space.

Zone 3: Storage (Priority 3 – More Critical Than You Think)

I massively underestimated storage in every build. Everyone does.

What you actually need to store:

Clothes:

• 7 days for two people = two large rucksacks worth
• Extra jackets, waterproofs (bulky)
• Spare shoes, boots
• Hats, gloves, scarves

Food:

• Dry goods (pasta, rice, tins) = 20-30L
• Snacks and treats = 10L
• Herbs, spices, oils = 5L
• Fresh food in fridge

Cooking equipment:

• Pans (2-3), pots (1-2), kettle
• Plates, bowls (4 of each minimum)
• Mugs (4), glasses (4)
• Cutlery, utensils, kitchen knife
• Storage: 25-35L

Outdoor gear:

• Walking boots, climbing shoes, wetsuits, etc.
• Camping chairs (2) = bulky
• Beach stuff or climbing gear or bike tools
• Storage: 40-60L depending on your hobbies

Bedding:

• Duvet, pillows
• Spare blanket
• Sheets (ideally 2 sets)

Bathroom:

• Toiletries for two people = surprisingly large
• Towels (4 minimum)
• Toilet paper, cleaning supplies

Tools and spares:

• Basic toolkit
• Spare fuses, bulbs, electrical bits
• Duck tape, cable ties, fixings
• WD-40, spare fluids

Random essential stuff:

• Dog supplies (food, bowls, leads, bedding)
• Books, games, entertainment
• Work equipment (laptops, chargers)
• Camera gear
• First aid kit

Total storage needed realistically:

• Minimum (weekends only): 200-250L
• Comfortable (regular use): 300-400L
• Full-time living: 500L+

Storage solutions that work:

Underbed storage:

• Largest available space usually
• I use Really Useful Boxes (84L size, £15 each)
• Three boxes fit under my bed (252L total)
• Organized: 1. Clothes, 2. Outdoor gear, 3. Tools/spares
• Access: Remove front bed section (30 seconds)

Overhead cupboards:

• Above bed, along walls
• Maximum depth: 35cm (deeper and they’re claustrophobic)
• Perfect for light items: clothes, bedding, towels
• My overhead: 1.8m x 0.35m x 0.3m deep = 189L

Kitchen storage:

• Cupboard under worktop: Food and pans = 60L
• Drawer: Utensils and small items = 15L
• Overhead (above kitchen): Plates, mugs, glasses = 25L

Under-seating storage:

• Bench seat with storage underneath
• Mine: 0.8m x 0.4m x 0.4m deep = 128L
• Contains: fridge (20L) + 12V electrical (20L) + misc (88L)

Door pockets and small storage:

• Over door hooks
• Mesh pockets
• Magnetic strips (knives, tools)
• Tiny spaces add up

Total in my current van: About 680L of actual usable storage. And it’s still not quite enough sometimes.

Storage mistakes I made:

Mistake 1: Beautiful cupboards with no access Van #2 had gorgeous overhead cupboards. Opening required removing everything from the worktop first. Used them twice. Waste of money.

Mistake 2: Deep shelves 40cm deep overhead cupboards. Things disappeared at the back. Impossible to see what you had. Frustrating.

Mistake 3: No organization system Everything just thrown in underbed space. Had to empty everything to find one thing. Maddening.

Mistake 4: Fixed shelves in cupboards Can’t reorganize. Can’t fit different-sized items. Inflexible.

What works better:

• Shallow overhead cupboards (25-30cm max)
• Removable shelves or no shelves (use boxes instead)
• Clear/translucent storage boxes (see what’s inside)
• Labeled boxes (seems obvious but essential)
• Easy access to everything you use daily

Zone 4: Seating (Priority 4)

You need somewhere to sit that isn’t your bed.

Minimum: Floor cushions (free if you’re comfortable sitting on floor)

Better: Simple bench seat

• 80cm x 40cm seating area = 2 people cozy
• Cushions on top (£40-£80 for foam + fabric)
• Storage underneath

Comfortable: L-shaped seating or bench + chairs

• Proper seating for 2-4 people
• Table for eating/working
• Relaxing space

What you don’t need: A full dinette setup unless you’ll actually use it.

Van #2 had a dinette. Fold-out table, L-shaped seating, the works. Cost me £380 to build. Used it maybe 15 times in a year. Most of the time we ate outside or sat on the bed. It took up huge amounts of space for minimal benefit.

Ripped it out. Built a simple bench seat instead. Cost £95. Use it constantly.

Current setup:

• Bench seat: 80cm along one wall, 60cm along back
• Cushions on top
• Storage underneath
• Removable camping table (£35) stored in underbed
• Works perfectly. Sit here to eat, read, work on laptop
• When we need more space, the camping table comes out

Seating position relative to other zones:

Seating opposite kitchen = perfect. You can:

• Cook while chatting to someone sitting
• Pass food from kitchen to seating easily
• Use seating as overflow prep space if needed

Seating facing the same direction as travel = illegal for passengers in some cases. Check regulations. Must have proper seatbelts and comply with laws.

Zone 5: Workspace (Optional But Important for Remote Work)

If you’re working remotely, you need dedicated workspace.

Minimum workspace:

• 50cm x 40cm flat surface
• Power (12V or 240V)
• Lighting
• Somewhere to sit comfortably

Better workspace:

• 70cm x 50cm surface
• Laptop + notebook space
• Multiple power outlets/USB
• Good natural light
• Proper seating position (not hunched)

My solution:

I don’t have dedicated workspace. I use:

• Kitchen worktop (cleared of stuff) = 60cm x 50cm
• Sitting on bench seat
• USB charging points nearby
• LED overhead light
• Window next to worktop (natural light)

Works for 2-3 hours of laptop work. Not ideal for full days but adequate for emails and admin.

If you work 4+ hours daily in the van: Consider a dedicated desk area. This usually means:

• Sacrificing some seating or storage space
• Mounting a fold-down desk
• Using the dinette table as permanent desk
• Having a separate office van (some people literally have two vans)

Zone 6: Bathroom/Toilet (Optional – Skip Unless Full-Time)

Reality check: Most people don’t need a toilet or shower in their van.

Toilet: I have a portable Thetford Porta Potti (£68) that lives in a sealed box under the bed. Used it maybe 10 times in two years. But when you need it at 3am in a layby, it’s worth having.

Shower: Nope. Never built one. Never missed it.

Solutions that work better:

• Campsites (£15-£25 per night gets you hot showers)
• Gym membership (£25/month, hot showers anywhere)
• Wild swimming (free, character-building)
• Solar shower bag (£18) hung from the door in summer
• Portable camping shower (£25-£45) for rinsing off

If you’re going full-time and absolutely must have a shower:

Budget space:

• Wet room: 0.8m x 0.8m minimum
• Shower tray, shower head, curtain
• Gray water tank (25L minimum)
• Hot water system (adds complexity and weight)
• Ventilation (essential – moisture is a nightmare)

This is 0.64 square meters of floor space. In a MWB van (4.25 square meters), that’s 15% of your floor gone. Worth it? Only you can decide.

My mate has a full wet room in his LWB Sprinter. Uses it twice a week. Brilliant. But he lives in it 300 days a year. For my 80-100 nights, it’s not worth the space.

Zone 7: Garage/Bike Storage (Optional But Useful)

If you’re into biking, surfing, climbing, or any activity with bulky gear, dedicated storage matters.

Options:

Rear garage:

• Bed raises up or slides forward
• Bikes/surfboards fit underneath or behind
• 1.0m x 1.7m x 0.6m high = enough for 2 bikes
• Access from rear doors

Roof rack:

• 2-4 bikes on top
• Pros: Doesn’t take internal space
• Cons: Height issues (car parks, ferries), theft risk, wind noise, fuel penalty

Internal rail system:

• Bikes hang from ceiling or wall
• Saves floor space
• Still takes up room (bikes are big)

Rear-mounted rack:

• Bikes on the back (requires rear carrier)
• Pros: Easy access, doesn’t affect height
• Cons: Blocks rear access, theft risk, weight on rear door

My approach: Removable bed front section. Takes 2 minutes to remove (4 bolts). Bikes fit in the space where bed was (1.2m x 1.7m x 1.0m high). Then I reconstruct the bed with the bikes underneath if we’re sleeping there, or leave it open for travel days.

Not perfect but works. I can carry 2 bikes internally when needed without permanently dedicating space to them.

Common Layout Types (And What Works In Real Life)

Let me break down the most common layouts and the reality of living with them.

Layout 1: Fixed Bed Across Back + Side Kitchen

Setup:

• Bed across full width at back (1.9m x 1.4-1.7m)
• Kitchen along one side (80-100cm long)
• Seating opposite kitchen
• Storage: underbed, overhead, kitchen cupboards

Pros:

• Comfortable bed (uses full width)
• Good kitchen space
• Natural workflow (kitchen opposite seating)
• Relatively simple to build
• Works for couples

Cons:

• Bed takes up permanent space (can’t use for anything else)
• Limited rear access (rear doors blocked by bed)
• Less flexible than modular options

Best for: Regular weekend trips, couple without bikes/bulky gear, people who prioritize comfortable sleeping

This is what I have. Works brilliantly for 80-90% of our trips. The 10% where we want bikes is slightly awkward but manageable.

Cost to build: £650-£900 (furniture materials + mattress)

Layout 2: Rock and Roll Bed + Kitchen

Setup:

• Rock and roll bed (doubles as seating)
• Kitchen along one side
• Rear area open (garage space)

Pros:

• Doubles as seating during day
• Rear access clear (bikes, gear)
• Space-efficient
• Quick conversion bed ↔ seating

Cons:

• Rock and roll beds expensive (£1,200-£2,500)
• Not as comfortable as proper bed
• Cushions must be arranged/rearranged constantly
• Limits rear door access when in bed mode

Best for: Weekend warriors who want seating space during day, people who need rear access, solo travelers

I tried this. Hated the bed comfort. Loved the flexibility. Would only use again if I was doing very short trips (2-3 nights maximum).

Cost to build: £1,800-£3,200 (rock and roll bed + kitchen)

Layout 3: Side-to-Side Bed + Rear Kitchen

Setup:

• Bed along one side (up to 1.2m wide x 1.9m long)
• Kitchen across the back
• Open living space in middle
• Often with pop-top for extra head height

Pros:

• Living area feels spacious
• Easy to move around
• Rear kitchen accessible from outside
• Good for one person or couple in SWB van

Cons:

• Bed narrower (challenging for couples)
• Kitchen less convenient in bad weather (rear doors)
• More complex build

Best for: Solo travelers, SWB vans, people who want open feeling, those who cook outside often

Haven’t built this myself but driven a mate’s setup. Felt spacious but that narrow bed would drive me mad.

Cost to build: £700-£1,100

Layout 4: Full-Width Bed With Lift-Up Front (Garage Under)

Setup:

• Full-width bed at back (1.9m x 1.4-1.7m)
• Front section lifts up or slides forward
• Bikes/gear stored underneath
• Kitchen and living area up front

Pros:

• Comfortable bed when sleeping
• Garage space when traveling
• Best of both worlds
• Good use of space

Cons:

• Requires lifting mechanism (gas struts or slides)
• More complex to build
• Must clear bed to access garage
• Can be heavy to lift

Best for: Active people who need gear storage, couples who want comfortable bed, those willing to build more complex system

My mate has this. Uses it brilliantly. But he’s more mechanically minded than me. I’d probably cock up the lifting mechanism.

Cost to build: £900-£1,400 (includes lifting hardware)

Layout 5: L-Shaped Living Area With Pull-Out Bed

Setup:

• Seating in L-shape (dinette style)
• Table in center
• Bed pulls out from seating or converts from seating
• Kitchen separate

Pros:

• Spacious living area during day
• Good for socializing
• Bed hidden when not in use
• Works for families

Cons:

• Must convert bed every night/morning
• Conversion can be faff
• Less comfortable than fixed bed usually
• Takes time to set up

Best for: Families with kids, people who entertain others, those who use van as daytime living space, people who prioritize sitting space over sleeping comfort

Tried a version in van #2. The conversion process got old fast. After two weeks I just left it as a bed permanently and the whole dinette idea was pointless.

Cost to build: £800-£1,300

Layout 6: Minimalist (Mattress on Floor + Portable Everything)

Setup:

• Mattress directly on floor (or low platform)
• Portable camping kitchen
• Plastic boxes for storage
• Fold-up table and chairs

Pros:

• Ultra-cheap (£200-£400 total)
• Completely flexible
• Can remove everything
• Use van for work during week
• Easy to change

Cons:

• Less comfortable
• Feels temporary
• Not weather-sealed (everything moves)
• Looks messy
• No fixed kitchen means less convenient cooking

Best for: People testing vanlife before committing, those on tiny budget, people who need work van during week, minimalists

Started here with van #1. Worked for testing the concept. Upgraded to fixed furniture after 6 months because I was fed up with things sliding around.

Cost: £200-£400

The Planning Process (How to Actually Design Your Layout)

Right. You understand your space, your needs, and common layouts. Now how do you actually design YOUR layout?

Step 1: Measure Everything (Obsessively)

What to measure:

Van dimensions:

• Internal length (cargo area only)
• Internal width (narrowest point – usually wheel arches)
• Internal height (measure in multiple places – vans aren’t uniform)
• Wheel arch intrusion (they eat floor space)
• Pillar positions (they limit where furniture can go)
• Window positions (affects furniture placement)
• Door opening sizes (affects access for furniture installation)

Your body dimensions:

• Your height (affects bed length, standing areas)
• Shoulder width (affects passageways)
• Reach height (affects overhead storage)
• Comfortable seating dimensions

Your gear dimensions:

• Bikes (length, width, height)
• Storage boxes you already own
• Fridge size you’re considering
• Camping chairs you use

I made cardboard templates of our bikes. Saved me from building a garage that was 5cm too short.

Tools for measuring:

• Tape measure (obvious)
• Laser measure (£25-£45, worth it for accuracy)
• Spirit level (vans aren’t level – affects furniture)
• Notepad (write everything down – you’ll forget)

Step 2: Make Cardboard Mockups (Seriously)

This sounds ridiculous. It’s the most valuable thing I did for van #4.

What I did:

1. Bought cheap cardboard boxes from moving company (£20 for 10 boxes)
2. Made furniture-sized boxes:
   • Bed: 1.9m x 1.4m x 0.45m high
   • Kitchen unit: 0.9m x 0.5m x 0.9m high
   • Seating: 0.8m x 0.4m x 0.45m high
3. Placed them in the van in different configurations
4. Got in, moved around, pretended to cook, pretended to sleep
5. Adjusted positions

What I learned:

• My planned kitchen was 10cm too long (would’ve blocked access to bed)
• The overhead storage I planned was claustrophobic (changed to shorter cupboards)
• I needed 70cm width for walkway (planned for 60cm – too narrow)
• The table I wanted wouldn’t fit where I thought

Saved me from building £400 of furniture in the wrong place.

If you skip one step in this guide, don’t skip this one.

Step 3: Draw It Out (Multiple Times)

Tools:

Paper and pencil (my preference):

• Free
• Quick to iterate
• Can sketch while sitting in the van
• Draw to scale (graph paper helps)
• I use 1 square = 10cm

Computer software:

• SketchUp (free version available)
• Autodesk Fusion 360 (free for personal use)
• Sweethome3D (free, easy to learn)
• Detailed 3D models
• Can do proper measurements
• Looks professional

Mobile apps:

• MagicPlan
• RoomScan
• Various floor plan apps
• Good for quick layouts
• Less detailed than computer software

I use paper first for rough concepts, then move to SketchUp for final design. Paper is faster for iterating. SketchUp is better for final details and measurements.

Draw multiple views:

• Plan view (looking down from above)
• Side elevation (looking from side)
• Front elevation (looking from rear/front)
• 3D perspective if possible

Step 4: Test Your Design (Before Building Anything)

Questions to ask:

Movement flow:

• Can you walk from door to bed without climbing?
• Can you reach the kitchen from seating?
• Can you get to storage without moving everything else?
• Is there a natural traffic flow?

Daily tasks:

• Can you cook while someone else is in the van?
• Can one person sleep while another is awake?
• Can you change clothes without sitting on the bed?
• Can you access the fridge without asking someone to move?

Access and entry:

• Can you carry furniture in through the door? (Check dimensions!)
• Can you access underbed storage without removing the bed?
• Can you reach overhead storage without a step ladder?

Emergency situations:

• Can you get out quickly if needed?
• Is the fire extinguisher accessible?
• Can you reach the door from the bed?

Real-world scenarios to test mentally:

Scenario 1: Rainy day

• You’re both inside all day
• Someone’s working on laptop
• Someone’s reading
• You both need lunch
• Where does everyone sit? How do you cook? Where does wet gear go?

Scenario 2: Getting ready in the morning

• One person needs to cook breakfast
• One person needs to get dressed
• Can this happen simultaneously?
• Where’s the traffic conflict?

Scenario 3: Loading for a trip

• Food shopping for a week
• Clothes for two people
• Outdoor gear (bikes, wetsuits, whatever)
• Where does it all go?
• How long to pack?

I mentally tested these for van #4. Found several issues:

• Couldn’t both get dressed simultaneously (would bump into each other)
• Kitchen blocked access to bed (one person trapped if other cooking)
• Revised layout to add 15cm more walkway space

Step 5: Budget Reality Check

Every layout has a cost. More complex = more expensive.

Budget by layout complexity:

Simple (£600-£1,000):

• Fixed bed (basic frame + mattress)
• Simple kitchen (worktop, hob, basic storage)
• Minimal seating
• Open storage

Standard (£1,200-£2,000):

• Fixed bed with storage underneath
• Proper kitchen with cupboards and drawer
• Seating with storage
• Overhead cupboards
• Wall lining and flooring

Complex (£2,500-£4,000):

• Rock and roll bed or lift-up bed system
• Extensive kitchen with multiple cupboards
• Dinette setup or complex seating
• Lots of custom furniture
• High-end finishes

Very Complex (£5,000+):

• Custom mechanical systems (bed lifts, pull-outs)
• Wet room installation
• Built-in appliances (oven, fridge, etc.)
• Professional joinery
• Bespoke everything

My van builds:

• Van #1: £850 (basic, lots of compromises)
• Van #2: £2,100 (complex, mostly wasted because I redesigned it)
• Van #3: £1,600 (good but needed modifications)
• Van #4: £1,350 (optimized from previous learning)

The expensive lessons from van #2 made van #4 cheaper because I knew exactly what worked.

Common Layout Mistakes (That I Made So You Don’t Have To)

Mistake 1: Prioritizing Aesthetics Over Function

What I did: Van #2, I designed a beautiful L-shaped kitchen with lovely curved edges, matching overhead cupboards, and a dinette area that looked Instagram-perfect.

Result:

• Couldn’t stand in the right place (head hit overhead cupboard)
• Curved edges wasted 15cm of usable worktop
• Dinette looked great but we sat there maybe 10 times
• Cooking was awkward because everything was slightly wrong position

Cost: £650 to build + £480 to rebuild = £1,130 wasted

Lesson: Function first. Always. If it doesn’t work well, it doesn’t matter how good it looks.

Mistake 2: Not Leaving Enough Walkway Space

What I did: Designed everything to maximize furniture. Left 55cm walkway.

Result: Constantly banging into things. Couldn’t walk past someone. Felt cramped and claustrophobic.

Fix: Redesigned to leave 70cm walkway. Immediately felt more spacious.

Lesson: Minimum 65cm walkway. 70-75cm is comfortable. Don’t sacrifice this for extra storage.

Mistake 3: Building Everything Fixed

What I did: Van #2, everything was permanently fixed. Looked built-in and professional.

Result: Couldn’t adapt to different trips. Couldn’t fit bikes without removing furniture. Couldn’t change anything without major work.

Lesson: Modular is better. Fixed what must be fixed (kitchen, bed frame). Removable everything else.

Current van:

• Bed front section: 4 bolts (removable in 2 minutes)
• Seating cushions: Lift off (storage access)
• Table: Separate camping table (stored when not needed)
• Storage boxes: Not built in (can remove, reorganize, replace)

Mistake 4: Overhead Storage Too Deep

What I did: 40cm deep overhead cupboards in van #2. Thought more storage = better.

Result:

• Hit my head constantly
• Felt claustrophobic
• Things disappeared at the back
• Rarely used the back half

Lesson: Maximum 30cm deep for overhead. 25cm is better. Shallow and long beats deep and high.

Mistake 5: No Thought to Installation

What I did: Built beautiful furniture in my workshop. Couldn’t get it through the van door.

Result: Had to disassemble it, modify it, reassemble inside. Three extra days of work.

Lesson:

• Check door dimensions (including angles)
• Build in sections if needed
• Or build inside the van (more awkward but guarantees it fits)

Mistake 6: Ignoring Weight Distribution

What I did: Put all heavy stuff (batteries, water, tools) at the back in van #1.

Result: Van felt tail-heavy. Handling was weird. Suspension sagged at back.

Lesson: Distribute weight evenly. Heavy items (batteries, water tanks) should be low and central. Check payload regularly.

My current weight distribution:

• Batteries: Under seating (central, low)
• Water: Under kitchen (front area, low)
• Tools: Distributed in underbed storage (spread across width)
• Heavy items: Never all in one area

Mistake 7: Not Planning for Condensation

What I did: Overhead cupboards with no ventilation.

Result: Condensation formed inside cupboards. Clothes got damp. Had to drill ventilation holes afterward.

Lesson: Ventilation matters everywhere. Cupboards need it. Under-bed storage needs it. Air must circulate.

Real-World Examples From My Builds

Let me give you the actual layouts I’ve built with honest assessments.

Van #1: VW Transporter T5 (Learning Experience)

Specs: SWB, standard roof, 2008, 1.7m x 1.7m x 1.4m interior

Layout:

• Rock and roll bed (full width)
• Tiny kitchen (60cm) along side
• Minimal storage (underbed only)
• No overhead cupboards
• Portapotti under bed

What worked:

• Rear access clear for bikes
• Rock and roll was okay for seating
• Simple and cheap (£850 total)

What didn’t:

• Rock and roll bed uncomfortable for sleeping
• Kitchen too small (constantly running out of space)
• Not enough storage (bags everywhere)
• Felt cramped constantly

Duration: Used for 10 months then sold

Would I build this again? No. Good learning experience but fundamentally limited by SWB size and poor layout choices.

Van #2: Ford Transit Custom MWB (The Beautiful Mistake)

Specs: MWB, medium roof, 2015, 2.6m x 1.7m x 1.75m interior

Layout (original):

• L-shaped kitchen (gorgeous but huge)
• Dinette seating area with table
• Bed across back (1.9m x 1.35m – too narrow)
• Gas oven + two-burner hob
• Lots of overhead storage (too deep)

What worked:

• Looked professional
• Lots of worktop space
• Good lighting
• Proper electrical system

What didn’t:

• Dinette barely used (wasted space)
• Bed too narrow (uncomfortable for two)
• Kitchen dominated the van
• Overhead storage hit my head
• Oven useless

Cost: £2,100 initial build

Layout (after redesign 6 months later):

• Straight kitchen (90cm) along one side
• Ripped out dinette
• Built simple bench seating
• Widened bed to 1.4m
• Removed oven
• Shorter overhead cupboards

Cost of redesign: £480 + my time

What worked after redesign:

• Much better proportions
• Comfortable bed
• Kitchen still good but not dominating
• More open feeling

Duration: Used for 3 years total, sold when upgrading

Would I build this again? The redesigned version, yes. Original version, absolutely not.

Van #3: Ford Transit Custom MWB (Getting There)

Specs: MWB, medium roof, 2016, 2.6m x 1.7m x 1.75m interior

Layout:

• Fixed bed across back (1.9m x 1.4m)
• Side kitchen (90cm)
• L-shaped seating
• Overhead storage above bed
• Underbed storage organized with boxes

What worked:

• Comfortable bed finally
• Kitchen perfect size and position
• Good storage solutions
• Proper ventilation (learned from van #2)

What didn’t:

• Everything was permanently fixed (couldn’t fit bikes)
• Seating was nice but took up lots of space
• Some wasted space in corners

Modifications after 6 months:

• Made bed front section removable
• Reduced seating to simple bench
• Added flexibility

Duration: Used for 2 years, sold when moving to current van

Would I build this again? Very close. 80% right. Just needed more flexibility from the start.

Van #4: Ford Transit Custom MWB (Current – Finally Got It Right)

Specs: MWB, medium roof, 2017, 2.6m x 1.7m x 1.75m interior

Layout:

• Fixed bed across back (1.9m x 1.4m)
• Front section removable (4 bolts)
• Side kitchen (90cm) with two-burner hob and sink
• Simple bench seating (L-shaped, minimal)
• Storage: underbed (boxes), overhead (shallow cupboards), kitchen cupboards
• 20L fridge under seating
• Diesel heater under bed
• Separate camping table (stored, not built-in)

What works:

• Comfortable bed (10cm memory foam mattress)
• Kitchen perfect for cooking real meals
• Seating adequate for two people
• Modular – can adapt to different trips
• Bikes fit when needed (remove bed front)
• Good storage (though never quite enough)
• 70cm walkway feels spacious

What doesn’t:

• Still not quite enough storage (is there ever?)
• Seating could be slightly comfier (cushions are okay not great)
• No dedicated workspace (use worktop but not ideal)

Cost: £1,350 (learned from previous mistakes)

Duration: 18 months so far, no plans to change

Would I build this again? Yes. This is the one I’d replicate. Small improvements possible but fundamentally sound.

My Final Recommendations

After four builds, here’s what I’d tell my younger self:

1. Start with needs, not wants

Don’t design for Instagram. Design for your actual life. If you’re doing weekend trips, you don’t need a shower. If you never cook elaborate meals, you don’t need a huge kitchen.

2. Modular beats permanent

Fix what must be fixed. Make everything else removable or adaptable. Your needs will change. Your layout should adapt.

3. Comfort beats aesthetics

A comfortable bed matters more than matching cupboards. A functional kitchen matters more than curved edges. Prioritize accordingly.

4. Leave space to move

70cm minimum for walkways. Don’t cram everything in. Space to move makes a small van feel bigger than cramming more furniture.

5. Storage everywhere

Every cubic centimeter counts. Underbed, overhead, under seats, door pockets, magnetic strips. You’ll always need more storage than you plan for.

6. Test before building

Cardboard mockups. Sketches. Multiple iterations. The hour you spend testing saves the week you spend rebuilding.

7. Simple is better

Complex mechanisms break. Simple furniture lasts. Rock and roll beds are cleverer than fixed beds but less reliable. Fold-out tables are fancier than camping tables but more things to fail.

8. Learn from others but design for yourself

Look at other layouts for inspiration. But your needs are unique. Don’t copy someone else’s layout exactly.

9. Budget 20% extra

Every build goes over budget. Materials cost more than planned. You’ll change things midway. Budget accordingly.

10. Accept imperfection

No layout is perfect. You’ll always find things you’d change. Build something good enough and start using it. You’ll learn more from living in it than planning it.

The Layout I’d Build If Starting Fresh Today

If I bought a new MWB Transit Custom tomorrow and was building from scratch, here’s exactly what I’d do:

Bed:

• Fixed across back (1.9m x 1.4m)
• Slat base (18mm ply + timber frame + slats)
• Front section bolted (4 bolts, removable)
• Back section screwed (permanent)
• Storage underneath (3 x 84L boxes)
• Cost: £180 + £285 mattress = £465

Kitchen:

• Along side, 90cm long
• Worktop: 90cm x 50cm (28mm beech)
• Two-burner gas hob
• 32cm round sink
• Cupboard underneath (60L)
• Drawer for utensils
• Overhead cupboard (25cm deep, 80cm long, 30cm high)
• Cost: £385

Seating:

• Simple L-bench (80cm x 40cm along side, 60cm x 40cm along back)
• Storage underneath (fridge 20L + electrical + misc)
• Cushions on top
• Cost: £95

Storage:

• Overhead above bed (1.8m x 35cm x 30cm deep)
• Underbed (organized boxes)
• Under-seating
• Kitchen cupboards
• Door pockets and hooks
• Cost: £120 (shelving, brackets, boxes, hooks)

Table:

• Removable camping table (stored under bed)
• Cost: £35

Electrical:

• 105Ah lithium battery
• DC-DC charger
• 200W solar
• LED lights
• USB sockets
• Cost: £1,170 (from previous guide)

Heating:

• Diesel heater
• Cost: £410 (from previous guide)

Plumbing:

• Jerry cans + Shurflo pump + sink + waste
• Cost: £241 (from previous guide)

Total furniture cost: £1,100 Total conversion cost (including electrical, heating, plumbing): £3,356 (plus insulation £635, plus van £12,000-£14,000)

Total project: £16,000-£18,000

Result: Comfortable year-round camper for two people, suitable for weekend trips to month-long tours, with flexibility for bikes when needed, and built to last.

Final Thoughts

Layout design is where your conversion succeeds or fails. Get it right and everything works smoothly. Get it wrong and you’ll spend months frustrated or years rebuilding.

I’ve been in both camps. Three redesigns taught me more than any book could.

The perfect layout doesn’t exist. The right layout for you depends on your life, your needs, your body, your hobbies, your budget, and your tolerance for compromise.

Start with cardboard boxes. Seriously. It’s the best £20 you’ll spend.

Think about function before aesthetics. Test everything before building. Plan for flexibility. Accept imperfection.

And when you cock it up (you probably will, at least a bit), don’t feel bad. Learn from it, fix it, and move on.

That’s what I did. Three times.

Now stop reading and go play with cardboard boxes in your van. The perfect layout is hiding in there somewhere.

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Got questions about your specific layout? steve@theferalway.com — I’ve probably made your mistake already and can tell you how I fixed it.