I’ve converted four campervans. The first was an absolute disaster that cost me £2,400 in mistakes I had to rip out and redo. The second was better, but I still discovered fundamental problems six months in that required tearing half of it apart. The third? Finally got it right. Mostly.

And that’s the thing about van conversions — everyone makes it look easy on YouTube. Quick timelapse, some upbeat music, couple of weekends, and boom, you’ve got a rolling home that looks like it belongs in Architectural Digest. What they don’t show is the three weeks you spent ripping out dodgy wiring because you didn’t use proper fuses, the insulation that’s now growing mould because you forgot vapour barriers, or the £600 leisure battery that died after four months because you cheaped out on the charging system.

This guide is everything I wish someone had told me before I started. No Instagram-perfect rubbish. No glossing over the difficult bits. Just the reality of converting a van in the UK, what it actually costs when you add up all the bits you forgot to budget for, and how to avoid the expensive cock-ups I made so you can make your own unique mistakes instead.

I’m not going to tell you this is easy. It’s not. But it’s definitely doable, even if you’re not particularly handy. I’d definitely never installed insulation or built furniture. You learn as you go. You just need to be prepared for the learning curve to be expensive.

Table of Contents

1. Is Converting a Van Actually Worth It?
2. Choosing Your Base Van: What Actually Matters
3. Legal Stuff (Boring But Important)
4. Planning Your Layout
5. Essential Tools & Workshop Space
6. The Complete Build Process (Step-by-Step)
   • Strip Out
   • Rust Treatment & Soundproofing
   • Insulation (The Most Important Decision)
   • Electrical Systems (12V & 240V)
   • Plumbing & Water Systems
   • Gas Systems & Heating
   • Building the Furniture
   • Wall & Ceiling Lining
   • Flooring
   • Windows & Ventilation
   • Final Touches
7. Realistic Cost Breakdown (Three Budget Levels)
8. Living With Your Conversion
9. Common Problems & Solutions
10. What I’d Do Differently

Is Converting a Van Actually Worth It?

Let me be straight with you. A basic campervan conversion will cost £3,000-£8,000 if you do it yourself on a tight budget, £8,000-£15,000 for a decent quality DIY build, or £15,000-£35,000+ if you pay someone else. That’s a lot of money for something that’ll leak occasionally, creak constantly, and drive you mental at least once a month.

I’ve spent about £38,000 across three vans (including purchasing the vans themselves). My current setup is worth maybe £22,000 if I sold it tomorrow. So I’m £16,000 down on paper. Not exactly a sound financial investment.

But here’s why I keep doing it: freedom. Proper freedom. Not the Instagram marketing version where everything’s sunrise yoga and perfect coffee shots. The kind where you can park up in the Cairngorms for a week, work from a layby with a sea view, or bugger off to Wales on a Friday afternoon without booking anything or spending £150 a night on accommodation.

I’ve slept in 43 different locations this year. I’ve worked from Scottish beaches, Welsh mountains, and Cornwall car parks. I’ve spent maybe £800 on campsites total because most of the time I’m wild camping legally (which I’ll cover later). Try doing that in hotels.

You should convert a van if:

• You actually want to use it regularly (minimum 30-40 nights a year to justify the hassle)
• You’re prepared to fix things yourself at 11pm in a layby
• You can live with compromises — limited space, basic amenities, no shower (unless you add one)
• You have realistic expectations about wild camping in the UK (it’s not as easy as Scotland makes it look)
• You enjoy the process of building things (because if you don’t, you’ll hate every minute)
• You’re happy maintaining something ongoing (this isn’t fit and forget)

Don’t bother if:

• You want hotel comfort on wheels
• You’re not handy with basic DIY (or willing to learn)
• You need everything to be perfect and finished
• Your budget is already maxed out (it always costs more than planned)
• You’re doing it because it looks cool on social media
• You get stressed by things breaking or not working

The third point is crucial. I’ve met so many people who’ve spent £20,000 on a conversion, used it twice, and sold it at a massive loss because they couldn’t handle the reality. A van is not a house. It’s not even a caravan. It’s a compromise that gives you mobility in exchange for comfort.

Choosing Your Base Van: What Actually Matters

This is where most people overthink it. I’ve driven Transit Customs, Sprinters, Transporters, Vivaros, Trafics, Crafters, and a Fiat Ducato that I still have nightmares about. They’ve all got pros and cons. None of them are perfect.

The Realistic UK Options

VW Transporter (T5/T6/T6.1)

• Price: £8,000-£30,000 depending on age/mileage
• Engine: 2.0 TDI (102bhp, 140bhp, 150bhp, 199bhp variants)
• Size: 4.9-5.3m long, 1.9m wide, 1.99m high (standard roof)
• Best for: Stealth camping, city parking, fuel economy (35-40mpg)
• Reality check: Everyone wants one, so you’re paying the VW tax. A 2015 Transporter costs the same as a 2018 Transit Custom. Parts aren’t cheap either — an alternator is £280 vs £140 for a Transit. Service costs are higher. But they hold value better and the driving experience is nicer.

I nearly bought a T5.1 in 2019. Test drove three. All had DMF (dual mass flywheel) issues that would’ve cost £1,200-£1,500 to fix. Walked away from all of them. If you’re buying a Transporter, budget £1,000-£2,000 for immediate repairs unless you’re getting a pristine example.

Mercedes Sprinter (2006-2018 models)

• Price: £6,000-£25,000
• Engine: 2.1 CDI (various outputs) or 2.2 CDI
• Size: Multiple lengths — SWB 5.9m, MWB 6.9m, LWB 7.4m
• Best for: Standing height, long trips, full-time living
• Reality check: Big. Properly big. The MWB won’t fit in most car parks. You’ll struggle in narrow UK lanes, historic town centres, and anywhere with width restrictions. But if you want a shower, toilet, and proper kitchen, this is your van.

I drove one for six months. Loved the space. Hated parking in literally every UK town. Got stuck in a Lake District village and had to reverse 200 metres with tourists watching. Would I buy another? Only if I get to going full-time.

Ford Transit Custom (2012-present)

• Price: £7,000-£22,000
• Engine: 2.0 TDCi (various outputs: 105, 130, 170bhp)
• Size: SWB 4.97m or LWB 5.34m, 2.06m wide, various heights
• Best for: Middle ground between size and practicality
• Reality check: Reliable, common parts (clutch £280, alternator £140), good fuel economy (38-42mpg), easy to drive. Not as trendy as VW which means better value. This is what I’d buy again.

My current van is a 2017 Transit Custom, medium wheelbase, medium roof (allows standing if you’re under 6ft). Paid £12,400 with 78,000 miles. It’s had one fault in 30,000 miles — a DPF sensor that cost £80 to replace.

Renault Trafic/Vauxhall Vivaro/Nissan Primastar (same van, different badges)

• Price: £5,000-£15,000
• Engine: 2.0 dCi or 1.6 dCi
• Size: Similar to Transit Custom
• Best for: Budget conversions where you want decent size
• Reality check: Often ex-fleet vans with high mileage. They’re cheaper for a reason — quality isn’t quite Transit or VW level. But they’re fine if you’re not fussy. Check the service history properly because fleet vans get thrashed.

Fiat Ducato/Peugeot Boxer/Citroën Relay (another badge-shared family)

• Price: £5,000-£18,000
• Engine: 2.3 JTD or 2.0 BlueHDi
• Size: Massive range of sizes available
• Best for: Standing height on a budget (higher roofs than most)
• Reality check: Popular with professional converters because of the size options. Driving experience isn’t great — feels cheap and plasticky. But you get a lot of van for the money.

What I’d Actually Buy Today

If I was starting fresh with a £12,000 budget for the van itself:

Option 1: £11,000-£13,000 — Ford Transit Custom (2016-2018)

• Medium wheelbase (5.34m)
• Medium roof (1.78m internal height)
• 130bhp diesel
• Under 100,000 miles
• Full service history (non-negotiable)
• Ideally with bulkhead already fitted

Why? Parts are everywhere. Every mechanic can work on them. Insurance is reasonable. Good fuel economy. And you can actually stand up inside with medium roof if you’re under 6ft tall.

Option 2: £10,000-£12,000 — VW Transporter T5.1 (2010-2015)

• Standard wheelbase
• Standard roof (you won’t stand up, but that’s fine)
• 140bhp diesel
• Under 120,000 miles
• Cambelt and water pump already done (or budget £800 for it)
• Check the DMF — listen for rattling when starting

Why? Better driving experience. Better fuel economy (40mpg vs 38mpg). Easier to park. Cooler looking (if you care). But you’re paying £2,000 more for an older van with more miles.

I went with the Transit. No regrets.

Critical Checks Before Buying ANY Van

I’ve looked at 27 vans across my three conversions. Here’s what I check every time:

1. Service History (Absolutely Critical) Full service history or walk away. I don’t care how shiny it looks. No history means you’re buying problems.

What I’m looking for:

• Services at correct intervals (not “I do it myself, mate”)
• Cambelt changes on schedule (usually 5 years or 100k miles)
• Major work receipts (turbo, injectors, DPF, DMF)

2. Rust Inspection (Get Underneath) Bring a torch. Get under the van. Check:

• Chassis rails (especially near rear axle)
• Floor panels around sliding door runners
• Inside the fuel filler cap area
• Wheel arches and sills

Surface rust is fine. Holes or flaky rust that comes away in chunks? Walk away unless you’re prepared to deal with it.

3. Mechanical Tests

• Start from cold — does it rattle? (DMF issue)
• Does it smoke on startup? (injectors or turbo)
• Check the oil — milky colour means head gasket problems
• Test the heater on full blast for 10 minutes (heater replacement is £400-£800)
• Check for DPF warning lights

4. Payload Capacity This is huge and everyone ignores it. Your van has a gross vehicle weight (GVW). Subtract the unladen weight. That’s your payload.

My Transit Custom has 1,050kg payload. Sounds like loads. But:

• Furniture and insulation: 250kg
• Electrical system and batteries: 80kg
• Water (40L full): 40kg
• Two people: 160kg
• Clothes, food, gear: 100kg
• Bikes on a rack: 40kg

Total: 670kg. I’m fine. But I’ve seen people overload vans by 300kg+ and not realise until they get pulled by DVSA.

5. The “Does It Have a Bulkhead?” Question You’ll need one for insurance. If it doesn’t have one, add £250-£400 to your budget. Some people try to argue that a plywood one is fine. Some insurers accept it. Some don’t. I wouldn’t risk it.

6. Windows Buying a van with windows already fitted saves you £500-£1,200 and a lot of stress. Cutting holes in a van is nerve-wracking.

Legal Stuff (Boring But Actually Important)

Right. Before you rip out the interior and start Instagramming your progress, understand this: the DVLA doesn’t care about your Pinterest board. They care about weight, windows, and whether you’re taking the piss with the classification.

DVLA Motor Caravan Reclassification

If you want your van to be a “Motor Caravan” on the V5C (which helps with insurance costs, some parking restrictions, and speed limits on single carriageways), you need to meet specific criteria.

The actual requirements:

1. Fixed furniture for sleeping — A bed. Not a mattress on the floor. Actual fixed or fold-down bed frame.
2. Fixed furniture for cooking — A hob (even a single burner) and worktop. Built in, not just a camping stove balanced on a box.
3. Fixed furniture for storage — Cupboards or drawers that are secured to the van.
4. Seating — The cab seats count, but you should have additional seating in the living area.
5. A table — Can be removable but must be there. Size matters — apparently. More on this in a minute.
6. Windows — At least one on each side of the van (not including cab doors). Roof windows count.

The process:

Fill in a V5C application form, include photos showing:

• The bed (from multiple angles)
• The cooking area with hob
• The seating area with table
• The storage
• External shots showing windows
• Vehicle weight plate

Then wait. And wait. Processing time is currently 6-8 weeks.

My experiences:

Conversion 1 (2019): Approved after 5 weeks. No issues.

Conversion 2 (2021): Rejected initially. They said my table was “too small”. It was 40cm x 60cm. I wrote back pointing out that’s bigger than most airline tray tables and larger than the tables in many motorhomes. They approved it on appeal after another 4 weeks.

Conversion 3 (2023): Requested an inspection. Inspector came, spent 10 minutes looking around, approved it. Got the V5C back 3 weeks later.

Top tip: Include photos of EVERYTHING. The more comprehensive your submission, the less likely they are to reject it or request an inspection.

Insurance for Converted Vans

Get insurance quotes BEFORE you buy the van. Seriously. Some insurers won’t touch self-conversions. Others charge double for under-25s or drivers with less than 2 years’ experience.

Good UK insurers for self-conversions:

• Comfort Insurance — Best rates I’ve found, cover self-builds up to £15,000 conversion value
• Safeguard — Slightly more expensive but very flexible on modifications
• Adrian Flux — Specialist knowledge, good for unusual builds
• A-Plan — Decent rates for over-30s with clean licences
• Caravan Guard — Good if you’re using it like a motorhome (occasional use)

What affects your premium:

• Your age (under 25 = significantly more expensive)
• Where you live (city centre vs rural)
• Conversion value (declare honestly — they WILL check after a claim)
• How you’ll use it (full-time living vs weekend trips)
• Security (alarms, trackers, steering locks reduce premiums)
• Driving history (obvious)

My premiums:

• Age 28, living in Bristol: £780/year
• Age 31, living in rural Wales: £420/year (same van, same driver)

Location makes a massive difference.

Critical: Declare EVERYTHING. Undeclared modifications = no payout. I’ve seen someone lose a £18,000 claim because they didn’t declare their solar panels.

MOT Considerations for Conversions

Your van needs an MOT. If you’ve added weight, check you’re not over the manufacturer’s GVW (it’s on a plate inside the door jamb or in the manual).

Things that fail MOTs on conversions:

Gas systems without proper ventilation:

• High-level vents required (above the cooker)
• Low-level vents required (for heavier-than-air gas leaks)
• Drop-out holes in floor if you have an underslung LPG tank

Electrical work that looks dodgy:

• Exposed wires (everything must be sheathed or in conduit)
• No fusing (everything must be properly fused)
• Battery not secured (it can’t move if you crash)
• Wiring running across sharp metal edges

Weight distribution issues:

• Can’t be obviously tail-heavy or nose-heavy
• Suspension can’t be overloaded (rear sagging badly)

Non-secured items:

• Furniture must be fixed (it can’t become a projectile)
• Gas bottles must be secured properly
• Loose items that could hit the examiner aren’t ideal

My approach: Get a pre-MOT check before you book the real thing. Costs £30-£40 and saves you the hassle of a fail. I use a local garage that’s done loads of conversions. They know what they’re looking for.

Speed Limits (Actually Matters)

Panel van (N1 classification):

• 70mph on motorways
• 60mph on dual carriageways
• 50mph on single carriageways

Motor caravan (M1 classification):

• 70mph on motorways
• 70mph on dual carriageways
• 60mph on single carriageways

That 10mph difference on dual carriageways actually matters on long trips.

Wild Camping Legal Status

Scotland: Legal under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. You can camp pretty much anywhere as long as you’re respectful. This is brilliant.

England and Wales: NOT legal without landowner permission. But enforcement is patchy. If you’re discreet, don’t take the piss, and move on when asked, you’ll mostly be fine.

What “discreet” means:

• Not parking directly on the beach or in obvious beauty spots
• Arriving late, leaving early
• No BBQs, no generators, no awnings
• Taking your rubbish with you
• Not staying multiple nights in the same spot

I’ve wild camped 200+ nights in England and Wales. Been moved on twice. Both times were fine — just “Sorry, you can’t stay here, there’s a campsite 3 miles up the road.” No drama.

Planning Your Layout: Getting This Right Matters

I’ve seen people spend hours debating whether to put a shower in a van that’s 1.8 metres wide. Let’s be realistic about what you actually need and what actually works in a small space.

Understanding Your Space

A medium wheelbase Transit Custom has about 7.5 cubic metres of usable space. That sounds like loads until you start putting things in it.

My current van:

• Length (cargo area): 2.6m
• Width (internal): 1.7m
• Height (internal): 1.75m

That means:

• My bed takes up 1.9m x 1.4m = 40% of floor space
• Kitchen area: 0.8m x 0.6m = another 10%
• Storage and seating: the rest

The Essential Zones (In Order of Priority)

1. Sleeping Area

You need to sleep properly. A bad bed ruins everything. I tried sleeping on a 1.1m wide bed for three months in my first conversion. My back still hasn’t forgiven me, and my relationship nearly didn’t survive.

Minimum dimensions:

• Single: 1.9m x 1.2m (I wouldn’t go narrower)
• Small double: 1.9m x 1.4m (comfortable for two)
• Proper double: 1.9m x 1.6m (requires LWB van)

Bed types:

Fixed bed (what I use):

• Pros: Always ready, comfortable, storage underneath
• Cons: Takes up permanent space, limits flexibility
• Cost: £150-£300 in materials

Rock and roll bed:

• Pros: Doubles as seating, quick conversion
• Cons: Expensive (£1,200-£2,500), not as comfortable, limits rear access
• Cost: £1,200-£2,500 for a decent one

DIY slat bed:

• Pros: Cheap, simple, comfortable with right mattress
• Cons: Takes up permanent space
• Cost: £100-£200
• This is what I built. 18mm ply base, 47mm x 75mm timber frame, slats across the top, 4-inch memory foam mattress on top.

2. Cooking Zone

You need a hob and a worktop. That’s it. You don’t need a four-ring cooker, an oven, and a grill. This isn’t MasterChef. I cook excellent meals on a two-burner setup.

What works:

• Two-burner gas hob (£60-£120) or
• Single induction hob if you have shore power or massive battery (£40-£80) or
• Portable diesel cooker like Webasto/Wallas (£800-£1,400 — only worth it for full-time)

Worktop size:

• Minimum: 60cm x 40cm (barely enough)
• Better: 80cm x 50cm (comfortable for meal prep)

I use a 90cm x 45cm worktop made from 28mm beech kitchen worktop from B&Q (£38). It’s got a two-burner gas hob on one side, prep space in the middle, and a washing up bowl that fits in a cutout on the other side.

3. Storage (You Need More Than You Think)

I massively underestimated storage on my first conversion. You need space for:

Clothes:

• 7 days of clothes for two people = surprising amount
• Jackets and waterproofs (bulky)
• Spare shoes and boots

Food:

• Dry goods (pasta, rice, tins)
• Snacks (you’ll have loads)
• Herbs and spices (if you actually cook)

Cooking equipment:

• Pans, pots, kettle
• Plates, bowls, mugs
• Cutlery and utensils

Outdoor gear:

• Walking boots
• Camping chairs
• Beach stuff or climbing gear or whatever you do

Tools:

• Basic toolkit (you’ll need it)
• Spare fuses and electrical bits
• Duck tape and cable ties (always)

My storage setup:

• Overhead cupboards above bed: 1.8m x 0.4m x 0.3m deep
• Underbed storage: Divided into sections with plastic boxes
• Kitchen cupboard: 0.8m x 0.5m x 0.5m deep
• Under-worktop drawer: For utensils and smaller items

4. Seating

Somewhere to sit that isn’t your bed. I built an L-shaped bench seat that doubles as storage. Dimensions: 0.8m x 0.4m along one side, 0.6m x 0.4m along the back.

Added cushions on top (£65 from eBay — just cheap sofa cushions cut to size). Works fine.

5. Fridge (Essential if You Use the Van Regularly)

I didn’t have a fridge in conversion #1. Used a coolbox with ice packs. It was rubbish. Melted ice everywhere, food going off, constant hassle.

Bought a 15L compressor fridge (Alpicool C15) for £160. Life-changing. Genuinely. Fresh milk, cheese that doesn’t spoil, cold beer.

6. Wet Room/Toilet (Optional — Skip It Unless Full-Time)

Unless you’re living full-time, skip the shower. Public toilets, campsites, gym memberships, and wild swimming work fine. The space cost isn’t worth it for weekend trips.

I use a portable Thetford toilet (£65) that lives under the bed in a sealed box. Used it maybe six times in two years. But when you need it at 3am in a layby, it’s worth having.

Common Layout Mistakes

Mistake 1: Too much fixed furniture

My first van had built-in units everywhere. Looked great in photos. Completely impractical in reality. Couldn’t fit bikes inside. Couldn’t reorganise when I needed to carry something big. Couldn’t adapt the space for different trips.

Now: Modular. My bed can come out in 20 minutes (four bolts). My seating can be removed if needed. Fixed what must be fixed (kitchen), removable everything else.

Mistake 2: No headroom where it matters

I couldn’t stand up at my cooking area in van #2. Spent six months hunched over like Quasimodo cooking pasta. Put standing height where you’ll actually stand — which is usually the kitchen area, not the bed.

Mistake 3: Blocking windows with furniture

Don’t cover windows with units. You’ll want the light. You’ll want the ventilation. And it looks weird from outside (screams “someone’s living in there”).

Mistake 4: Not thinking about door access

I built beautiful overhead storage in van #1. Then realised I couldn’t open the sliding door fully because the storage was in the way. Had to cut 15cm off the unit. Idiot.

Mistake 5: Underestimating how much you move around

In a small space, you bump into things. A lot. Sharp corners on furniture will destroy your shins. Round them off. Seriously.

Layout Examples That Work

The Weekend Warrior:

• Fixed bed across the back (1.9m x 1.4m)
• Kitchen along one side (0.9m long)
• Seating opposite kitchen
• Storage underneath and overhead
• Total space: 2.6m long x 1.7m wide

The Full-Timer:

• Fixed bed across back with garage underneath for bikes
• Galley kitchen along one side (1.2m)
• Wet room (0.8m x 0.8m) — only if you must
• Seating/dinette area
• Requires LWB van minimum

The Stealth Setup:

• Side-to-side bed that can fold up
• Minimal overhead storage (keeps profile low)
• All windows covered with blackout material
• Kitchen hidden behind panels
• Looks like a work van from outside

Essential Tools & Workshop Space

You don’t need a fully-equipped workshop, but you do need some basics.

Must-have tools (you’ll use these constantly):

• Cordless drill (£60-£150) — Makita or DeWalt, don’t cheap out
• Jigsaw (£40-£100)
• Circular saw (£60-£120)
• Orbital sander (£40-£80)
• Screwdriver set (£15-£30)
• Socket set (£25-£60)
• Adjustable spanner set (£20)
• Wire strippers and crimpers (£15-£40)
• Multimeter (£15-£40)
• Measuring tape and spirit level (£15)
• Clamps (6+ of various sizes, £30-£60)

Total if buying everything new: £400-£800

I already had tools from the work i do.

Useful but not essential:

• Angle grinder (for cutting metal)
• Rivet gun (for securing some panels)
• Heat gun (for vinyl wrapping or shrinking heat shrink)
• Workbench (makes everything easier)

Workshop space:

I did my first conversion on my driveway. It was December. It was horrible. Rain delays. Frozen fingers. Neighbours complaining.

Second conversion: Borrowed a friend’s garage. Much better.

Third conversion: Rented a unit for £250/month for 6 weeks. Best decision. Warm, dry, space to spread out, secure storage for tools overnight.

If you can rent a space or borrow a garage, do it. Working outside in British weather is miserable.

The Complete Build Process: Step-by-Step

Right. This is the detailed bit. I’m going to walk you through every step of a conversion the way I do it now, with all the mistakes to avoid and techniques I’ve learned.

Step 1: Strip Out the Interior (1-3 days)

Everything comes out. Every panel, every bit of plyboard lining, every metal shelf bracket, every stud. You want bare metal because you need to see what you’re working with.

Tools needed:

• Screwdrivers (Phillips, flathead, Torx set)
• Socket set with extension bars
• Drill with metal cutting bits
• Angle grinder (if there’s welded shelving — likely in ex-fleet vans)
• Pry bar or crowbar
• Safety glasses and work gloves
• Dust masks (seriously — the dust is horrible)

The process:

Day 1: Remove loose items and panels Start with anything that’s obviously detachable. Most panel vans have ply lining held in with plastic clips or screws. Remove carefully if you want to reuse them (I usually don’t — they’re often damaged or smelly).

Day 2: Remove fixed metal shelving Ex-fleet vans often have metal shelving bolted or welded to the chassis. Bolted stuff: unbolt it. Welded stuff: angle grinder time. Wear a face shield. Sparks everywhere.

Day 3: Deep clean Sweep out all the dust and debris. Then pressure wash if you can (I use a friend’s driveway for this). Let it dry completely (2-3 days in summer, a week in winter).

Cost: £0 if you have tools, £80-£150 if you need to buy them

What I learned:

• Some vans have underseal that’s deteriorating and flaking. Strip as much as you can now.
• Take photos of where panels attach and how wiring is routed. You’ll forget.
• Label everything if you’re keeping any original parts.

Step 2: Rust Treatment & Soundproofing (2-4 days)

This is the foundation. Screw this up and you’ll have problems for years.

Rust inspection and treatment:

Check every inch of the floor, wheel arches, door sills, and around window apertures for rust. Use a torch and get underneath.

What you’ll find:

• Surface rust (orange, powdery): Fine, treat it
• Flaking rust (comes off in chunks): More serious, needs grinding back
• Holes: You need to cut out and weld in new metal, or use fibreglass patches

Treatment process:

1. Wire brush or grind off loose rust (angle grinder with wire brush attachment)
2. Apply rust converter (Hammerite Kurust or similar, £8 per 250ml)
   • Brush it on liberally
   • Let it cure (24 hours minimum)
   • It converts rust to a stable surface
3. Prime with rust-resistant primer (£12 per litre)
4. Top coat with chassis paint (£15-£25 per litre)

I found rust around the fuel filler and on the floor near the sliding door runners. Spent two full days grinding, treating, and repainting. Total materials: £65.

Soundproofing:

This is the difference between a rattly tin can and something you can actually have conversations in.

Materials:

• Silent Coat (£180-£250 for a full van kit) — This is what I use
• Dynamat (£250-£400) — More expensive but slightly better
• Budget option: Closed-cell foam with adhesive backing (£80-£120) — Worse but better than nothing

Application:

1. Clean all metal surfaces with panel wipe or isopropyl alcohol
2. Cut soundproofing to fit each panel (I make cardboard templates first)
3. Peel and stick, then roll firmly with a roller to remove air bubbles
4. Focus on:
   • Entire floor
   • Wheel arches
   • Roof (at least 50% coverage)
   • Door panels
   • Behind cab seats

Takes 2-3 days to do properly. I covered about 70% of the interior in my current van.

Cost: £200-£400 total for rust treatment and soundproofing

What I learned:

• Don’t skip the soundproofing. Every single person I know who skipped it regrets it.
• You can’t apply soundproofing in cold weather — it won’t stick properly. Needs to be above 15°C.
• Heat the panels slightly with a heat gun to improve adhesion.

Step 3: Insulation (3-5 days) — THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISION

Get this wrong and you’ll be cold in winter, hot in summer, and dealing with condensation year-round. I’ve insulated four vans (one twice after I cocked it up). Here’s what actually works in the UK.

Understanding R-values and thermal bridging:

R-value measures thermal resistance. Higher = better insulation. But it’s not just about R-value — you also need to prevent thermal bridging (where metal ribs conduct cold through to the interior).

Insulation options in detail:

Celotex/Kingspan (PIR Boards) — What I use

• Cost: £4-£8 per square metre
• R-value: Excellent (0.022 W/mK)
• Thicknesses available: 25mm, 50mm, 75mm, 100mm
• Pros: Best thermal performance for thickness, moisture resistant, easy to cut, fairly rigid
• Cons: Can’t compress into curves, creates air gaps that must be filled, not eco-friendly

Where I use it:

• 50mm on the roof (between the metal ribs)
• 25mm on the walls (between ribs)
• 25mm on the floor (under the subfloor)

How to install it:

1. Measure the gaps between metal ribs (they’re usually irregular)
2. Cut PIR board 5mm oversize for a friction fit
3. Use expanding foam to fill gaps around edges (NOT behind the board — it’ll cause bridging)
4. Leave 10-15mm air gap behind the board for ventilation where possible

Sheep’s Wool (Thermafleece)

• Cost: £8-£15 per square metre
• R-value: Good (0.038 W/mK)
• Pros: Breathable (handles moisture really well), eco-friendly, compresses into awkward spaces, natural, doesn’t require vapour barriers
• Cons: More expensive, harder to work with, needs treating against moths (comes pre-treated usually), harder to source

I used this in van #2 for the walls. It worked well but was more faff to install. And it’s expensive.

Reflectix/Bubble Foil

• Cost: £2-£5 per square metre
• R-value: Rubbish on its own (only works with air gaps)
• Pros: Cheap, reflects radiant heat IF you have air gaps
• Cons: Marketing is misleading, doesn’t work as primary insulation, needs 25mm air gap each side to do anything useful

Don’t use this as your main insulation. I use it as a vapour barrier over my PIR boards, but that’s it.

Spray foam (professional installation)

• Cost: £800-£2,000 professionally done
• Pros: Fills every gap, excellent coverage, no thermal bridging
• Cons: Expensive, makes van panels impossible to remove later, can trap moisture if not done right, voids some van warranties

I’d only consider this for a forever van.

My actual installation process:

Roof (most important area):

1. Measure between ribs — mine varied from 380mm to 410mm
2. Cut 50mm Celotex to fit each section (friction fit)
3. Use expanding foam around edges (Soudal Gap Filler, £6 per can)
4. Cover with Reflectix as vapour barrier
5. Batten over the top for fixing ceiling panels later

Walls:

1. 25mm Celotex between ribs
2. Expanding foam around edges
3. Reflectix as vapour barrier
4. Battens for wall lining

Floor:

1. Treated any rust first
2. 25mm Celotex across entire floor
3. 12mm ply subfloor on top, screwed into original floor through the insulation
4. This raises the floor 37mm — annoying but worth it

Critical mistakes to avoid:

Mistake 1: Not leaving air gaps for ventilation I filled every gap with insulation in van #1. Moisture couldn’t escape. Got condensation and mould after 4 months. Had to rip it all out.

You MUST have ventilation paths for air to circulate. I leave 10-15mm between the metal ribs and the insulation in most areas.

Mistake 2: Using closed-cell foam directly against metal Closed-cell foam doesn’t breathe. If you stick it directly to metal with no air gap, you trap moisture. Bad news.

Mistake 3: Not insulating the floor “Heat rises” they said. “Floor insulation doesn’t matter” they said. Wrong. Absolutely wrong. You lose loads of heat through the floor in UK winters.

Mistake 4: Over-compressing wool insulation Wool works by trapping air. Compress it too much and you reduce its effectiveness. Don’t pack it in tight.

Cost for my current van (medium wheelbase):

• Celotex 50mm (roof): £165 (8 sheets)
• Celotex 25mm (walls and floor): £145 (10 sheets)
• Reflectix vapour barrier: £48 (25m roll)
• Expanding foam: £42 (7 cans)
• Battens for fixing: £35

Total: £435

Time taken: 4 days working alone

Results: Interior stays 5-8°C warmer than outside in winter without heating. No condensation issues. Worth every penny and every hour.

Step 4: Electrical System (3-7 days)

This is where people get scared. Don’t be. A 12V system isn’t complicated if you’re methodical and follow the rules.

Basic electrical theory you need:

• Voltage (V): Like water pressure (12V system in your van)
• Current (A): Like water flow (how much power is being used)
• Watts (W): Voltage x Current (actual power consumption)
• Amp hours (Ah): How much current your battery can supply over time

Example: A 12V LED light using 5W draws 0.42 Amps (5÷12). If you run it for 10 hours, it uses 4.2Ah from your battery.

System components explained:

1. Leisure battery (the heart of your system)

Options:

• Lead acid (cheapest): £80-£120 for 110Ah
  • Heavy, needs ventilation, can’t discharge below 50%, lasts 2-4 years
  • Don’t bother unless broke
• AGM (better): £150-£250 for 110Ah
  • Sealed, no maintenance, can’t discharge below 50%, lasts 3-6 years
  • Decent budget option
• Lithium (LiFePO4) (best): £400-£700 for 100Ah
  • Light, can discharge to 100%, lasts 8-12 years, charges faster
  • This is what I use now (Fogstar Drift 105Ah, £449)

My calculations:

• LED lights: 15W total x 4 hours = 60Wh = 5Ah
• Phone/laptop charging: 50Wh = 4.2Ah
• 12V fridge: 40W x 12 hours (cycling) = 480Wh = 40Ah
• USB devices: 20Wh = 1.7Ah

Daily total: ~51Ah

A 100Ah lithium gives me two days without charging. Add solar and I’m indefinite.

2. Charging the battery

Option A: Split charge relay (basic, cheap)

• Cost: £30-£60
• How it works: Connects your leisure battery to your alternator when engine is running
• Pros: Cheap, simple
• Cons: Doesn’t charge lithium properly, inefficient, can drain starter battery

Option B: DC-DC charger (better)

• Cost: £100-£200 (Victron Orion, Renogy, CTEK)
• How it works: Smart charger that properly charges your leisure battery from alternator
• Pros: Charges lithium properly, protects both batteries, efficient
• Cons: More expensive

I use a Victron Orion 12/12-18 (£157). Charges my lithium battery properly while driving. No regrets.

Option C: Mains hookup charger

• Cost: £60-£150
• When you’re on a campsite with electric hookup

I have a basic CTEK MXS 5.0 (£72) for campsite stays.

3. Solar panels (optional but brilliant)

My setup:

• 200W solar panel (£180)
• Victron MPPT 75/15 controller (£85)
• Roof mounting brackets (£35)
• Cable and connectors (£30)

Performance in UK:

• Summer: 60-80Ah per day (even on cloudy days)
• Winter: 10-20Ah per day (better than nothing)

This keeps my fridge running and devices charged indefinitely in summer. Winter needs driving to top up.

Installation:

1. Mounted panel to roof with brackets and Sikaflex
2. Cable runs down through roof vent hole (added rubber grommet)
3. MPPT controller on wall near battery
4. Fused at battery (critical)

4. Distribution and safety

Fuse box: £40-£80 for a decent one with 6-12 circuits

EVERY circuit must be fused. Not negotiable. I use:

• 30A for the main feed from battery
• 10A for LED lights
• 15A for 12V sockets
• 20A for fridge

Wiring: Cable size matters. Too small = voltage drop and fire risk.

• 1-5A: 1.5mm² cable
• 5-15A: 2.5mm² cable
• 15-25A: 4mm² cable
• 25-40A: 6mm² cable
• Battery to fuse box: 10mm² or larger

I bought a mixed box of cable from 12V Planet (£85).

5. Outputs

• LED lights: £8-£15 each (I have 4 lights total — cost £45)
• 12V socket: £5-£12 each (I have 2)
• USB sockets: £8-£15 each (I have 2 twin USB sockets)

My complete electrical system cost:

• Fogstar Drift 105Ah lithium battery: £449
• Victron Orion DC-DC charger: £157
• 200W solar panel: £180
• Victron MPPT controller: £85
• Fuse box and fuses: £62
• Cable (various sizes): £85
• LED lights: £45
• 12V sockets: £18
• USB sockets: £24
• Switches and connectors: £38
• Mounting hardware: £27

Total: £1,170

Worth noting: You can do a basic system for £400-£500 with AGM battery and no solar. But you’ll upgrade later. I did.

Installation tips:

1. Plan your cable runs first — I drew a wiring diagram before I bought anything
2. Label everything — Every wire, every connection
3. Use properly crimped connectors — No twisting wires together
4. Fuse everything — Did I mention this already?
5. Keep battery as low in the van as possible — Weight distribution
6. Secure battery properly — It can’t move in a crash
7. Use cable trunking — Keeps it neat and protected

Testing:

Before you connect everything permanently:

1. Test each circuit with multimeter
2. Check for shorts
3. Verify fuse ratings are correct
4. Test under load (turn things on)

I found two wiring mistakes during testing. Much better than finding them after a fire.

Step 5: Plumbing & Water Systems (1-2 days)

I’ve tried complicated systems. They leak. They break. They freeze. Now I keep it simple.

My current setup (and why):

Fresh water:

• 2x 10L Jerry cans (Scepter military-style, £28 each)
• Total: 20L fresh water
• Sits under the kitchen worktop
• Easy to refill (just swap the can)
• If it freezes, I can take it out

Why not a fixed tank? They’re a pain to fill, impossible to clean properly, and add weight permanently.

Pump:

• Shurflo 12V water pump (£67)
• Flow rate: 4L per minute
• Pressure: 40 PSI
• Fitted under the sink

I tried a foot pump first (£25). Hated it. The Shurflo is worth the extra money.

Tap:

• Basic chrome mixer tap (£28 from Screwfix)
• Connects to pump outlet
• No hot water (I heat water in a kettle if needed)

Sink:

• Stainless steel round sink (£42)
• Diameter: 340mm
• Depth: 150mm
• Cut hole in worktop with jigsaw, sealed with silicone

Waste water:

• 25L plastic container with lid (£18)
• Sits under the van
• Waste pipe goes through floor (sealed with rubber grommet)
• Empty at campsites or public waste points

Complete installation:

1. Cut hole in worktop for sink
2. Fit sink with silicone sealant
3. Connect tap to sink
4. Drill hole through floor for waste pipe (25mm)
5. Mount pump under worktop
6. Connect inlet hose from Jerry can to pump
7. Connect outlet hose from pump to tap
8. Wire pump to fused 12V supply with switch
9. Test for leaks (ran it for 30 minutes — found two drips, tightened jubilee clips)

Total cost:

• Jerry cans x2: £56
• Shurflo pump: £67
• Tap: £28
• Sink: £42
• Waste container: £18
• Hoses and fittings: £24
• Switch: £6

Total: £241

Why I don’t have hot water:

• Adds complexity (more things to break)
• Adds weight (water heater + hot water)
• Adds cost (£200-£400 for a decent system)
• Adds power consumption

I heat water in a kettle for washing up. For showers, I use campsites or a solar shower bag (£18) in summer.

Winter considerations:

Water freezes. I’ve had pipes freeze and split. Now:

• I empty the system if it’s below freezing
• I take the Jerry cans inside (or drain them)
• I added a small 12V heater near the pump (£22) that I can run overnight if needed

Step 6: Gas Systems & Heating (2-3 days + professional certification)

I don’t mess with gas installation. I’ll tell you what I have and how it works, but if you’re installing gas, pay a professional to do it or certify it.

Gas setup:

Bottle:

• 6kg propane bottle (Calor or FloGas)
• Lasts 3-4 weeks for cooking only
• Lasts 1-2 weeks if using gas heating too

Storage:

• External gas locker (£85)
• Mounted to rear door
• Vented to outside (drop holes in floor)
• Secured with strap

Hob:

• Smev 8821 two-burner gas hob (£178)
• Cut into worktop
• Connects to bottle via regulator and hose
• Needs high-level vent above it (installed roof vent)

Regulator:

• 30mbar propane regulator (£18)
• Connects bottle to hose

Professional certification: Cost me £180 for a Gas Safe engineer to check my installation, pressure test the system, and issue a certificate. Insurance requires this.

Heating — Diesel heater (what I use):

I tried gas heating (Propex HS2000). It was expensive (£680), used loads of gas, and dried out the air horribly.

Now I use a Chinese diesel heater (Vevor 5kW, £185). I know, I know. But it works brilliantly.

Installation:

• Heater unit under the bed
• Fuel line from heater to fuel tank (£45 kit)
• Exhaust out through the floor (£28 exhaust kit)
• Air intake also through floor
• 12V power from fuse box (8A fuse)
• Controller on wall by bed

Cost:

• Heater unit: £185
• Fuel tank and line: £45
• Exhaust and intake: £28
• Installation materials: £32
• Professional check: £120 (not legal requirement but peace of mind)

Total: £410

Performance:

• Heats the van from 2°C to 18°C in about 20 minutes
• Fuel consumption: 0.1-0.3L per hour (incredibly cheap)
• 12V power draw: 1-2A running, 8A on startup
• Can run all night on less than a litre of diesel

I’ve used it for two winters. It’s been brilliant. Warm van in Scottish Highlands in January.

Alternative: 12V electric heater

Only works if you have massive battery and solar. I tried a 1kW diesel heater – it drew 83A from my battery. Killed it in an hour.

Step 7: Building the Furniture (5-10 days)

This is where your van becomes a home. I’m going to share my actual build process for my current setup.

Materials:

• 12mm ply for structure: £32 per 2.4m x 1.2m sheet (I used 6 sheets = £192)
• 6mm ply for panels: £22 per sheet (I used 4 sheets = £88)
• 18mm ply for worktop base: £38 per sheet (I used 1 sheet)
• Kitchen worktop offcut (beech, 28mm thick): £38 from B&Q
• 2×2 timber for framing: £4.50 per 2.4m length (I used 12 lengths = £54)
• Wood screws: £25 (various sizes)
• Wood glue: £12
• L-brackets and corner braces: £35
• Hinges and catches: £28
• Edge trim: £18

Total furniture materials: £528

My furniture build (step-by-step):

The bed frame (2 days):

Design:

• 1.9m x 1.4m sleeping surface
• 0.45m height (storage underneath)
• 47mm x 75mm timber frame
• 18mm ply base with slats on top
• Removable in sections for access

Build process:

1. Built frame from 2×2 timber (47mm x 75mm) — corners joined with corner braces
2. Secured frame to floor and walls using L-brackets (8 total)
3. Cut 18mm ply base to fit (1.9m x 1.4m)
4. Cut slats from spare 2×2 timber (18 slats, 50mm spacing)
5. Screwed slats to frame
6. Made the front section removable (4 bolts) for access to storage

Storage under bed:

• 3 plastic boxes (Really Useful Boxes 84L, £15 each)
• Accessible from front when bed section is removed
• Stores clothes, shoes, outdoor gear

The kitchen unit (3 days):

Design:

• 0.9m long x 0.5m deep x 0.9m high
• Worktop at 0.9m height (comfortable for cooking)
• Storage cupboard underneath
• Drawer for utensils
• Gas hob cut into worktop
• Sink next to hob

Build process:

Day 1:

• Built frame from 2×2 timber
• Attached to floor (L-brackets) and wall (screwed through ply lining)
• Cut 12mm ply for sides, back, and internal dividers

Day 2:

• Fitted cupboard door with piano hinge
• Built drawer with simple runners (£12)
• Added internal shelf in cupboard

Day 3:

• Cut kitchen worktop to size (0.9m x 0.5m)
• Cut hole for hob (template provided with hob)
• Cut hole for sink
• Fitted both with silicone sealant
• Attached worktop to frame with screws from underneath

The seating (1 day):

Design:

• L-shaped bench
• 0.8m along one wall, 0.6m along back wall
• 0.45m high (same as bed for visual consistency)
• Storage underneath

Build:

• 2×2 frame secured to floor and walls
• 12mm ply top
• 6mm ply sides and front
• Hinged lid for access to storage
• Cushions on top (bought separate, £65)

Overhead storage (2 days):

Design:

• 1.8m long x 0.35m deep x 0.3m high
• Above the bed
• Two cupboards with doors

Build:

• Frame from 2×2 timber
• 6mm ply for top, bottom, sides, back
• 6mm ply doors with simple hinges
• Magnetic catches to keep doors closed
• Secured to van ribs with heavy-duty L-brackets

Critical techniques I learned:

1. Everything must be secured Don’t just rest furniture on the floor. Screw it down. An unsecured unit becomes a projectile in a crash.

2. Account for the van’s curves Vans aren’t square. Walls curve. Floor isn’t flat. I measure each section individually and cut to fit.

3. Pre-drill everything Ply splits easily. Pre-drill all screw holes.

4. Round all edges I use a router with a roundover bit (£28). Every exposed edge gets rounded. My shins thank me.

5. Use wood glue AND screws Glue gives strength. Screws give clamping pressure while glue dries. Both together = strong joints.

6. Plan for expansion/contraction Wood moves with humidity. I leave 2-3mm gaps between panels. Fill with flexible sealant later if needed.

Step 8: Wall & Ceiling Lining (2-4 days)

You’re covering up the insulation and wiring with something that looks decent and protects everything.

My approach: 3mm ply throughout

Why 3mm ply:

• Cheap (£17-£22 per 2.4m x 1.2m sheet)
• Light (important for payload)
• Easy to cut and fit around curves
• Can be painted
• Looks fine when painted

Alternative materials:

• Tongue & groove cladding (£30-£45 per pack): Looks warmer, costs more, heavier
• Vinyl panels (£25-£40 per pack): Quick install, wipe-clean, plasticky looking

Installation process:

Ceiling (Day 1-2):

1. Cut 3mm ply to rough size (slightly oversize)
2. Offer up to ceiling, mark where ribs are
3. Remove, trim to exact size
4. Pre-drill screw holes
5. Apply construction adhesive to battens (I installed these over the insulation)
6. Screw through ply into battens (25mm screws, every 200mm)
7. Fill screw holes with wood filler
8. Sand smooth (orbital sander, 120 grit)
9. Paint (white ceiling paint, 2 coats)

I used 4 sheets for the ceiling. Cost: £80 for ply, £22 for paint.

Walls (Day 3-4):

Same process but more complex because of windows, doors, and curves.

Challenges:

• Cutting around window apertures (cardboard templates first)
• Fitting around door frames (measure three times, cut once)
• Dealing with van curves (ply can flex slightly — use screws to pull it into shape)

I used 5 sheets for walls. Cost: £100 for ply, £28 for paint (light grey).

Finishing:

• Filled all screw holes with decorator’s filler
• Sanded everything smooth (took longer than the installation)
• Painted ceiling white (makes it brighter)
• Painted walls light grey (hides dirt better than white)
• Added plastic edge trim where ply meets metal (£18)

Total cost: £248

What I learned:

• Buy 20% more ply than you think you need (mistakes happen)
• Paint BEFORE you install if possible (much easier)
• Use a fine-tooth blade in your jigsaw for cleaner cuts
• Accept that it won’t be perfect — character, not flaws

Step 9: Flooring (1 day)

Final major component. I’ve tried three different types across my conversions.

My journey:

Van 1: Carpet

• Cost: £65
• Pros: Warm, comfortable underfoot
• Cons: Impossible to clean, holds moisture, smells after 6 months
• Verdict: Never again

Van 2: Rubber gym flooring

• Cost: £78
• Pros: Durable, easy to clean, good grip
• Cons: Looks industrial, smells rubbery for months, heavy
• Verdict: Works but looks rubbish

Van 3 (current): Vinyl click-lock flooring

• Cost: £118
• Pros: Looks good, waterproof, easy to clean, easy to install
• Cons: Can be cold underfoot (solved with rugs)
• Verdict: Perfect

My installation process:

Prep:

1. 12mm ply subfloor already installed over insulation (from Step 3)
2. Swept and vacuumed thoroughly
3. Checked floor is level (used shims under ply where needed)

Vinyl installation:

1. Measured floor area (accounted for awkward shapes)
2. Ordered vinyl (Wickes Warm Oak effect, £28 per pack, bought 5 packs = £140 including 20% spare)
3. Started from front of van
4. First row: Cut planks to width, clicked together
5. Subsequent rows: Clicked into previous row, staggered joints
6. Cut around wheel arches using cardboard template
7. Left 5mm expansion gap around edges (covered with beading later)
8. No adhesive needed (click-lock floats)

Time: 6 hours including all cuts and fitting

Finishing:

• Fitted plastic edge beading around perimeter (£12)
• Added a small rug in living area for warmth (£25)

Total flooring cost: £177 (vinyl + beading + rug)

Tips:

• Use a jigsaw for cuts, not a Stanley knife (cleaner edges)
• Click-lock needs a flat surface (ply subfloor essential)
• Warm the vinyl in the sun before installing (makes it more flexible)

Step 10: Windows & Ventilation (Critical for condensation control)

I didn’t have proper ventilation in van #1. Had black mould on the ceiling within 3 months. Learned my lesson.

Why ventilation matters:

Two people sleeping generate about 1 litre of moisture overnight through breathing. Add cooking, wet clothes, dogs, etc. That moisture needs somewhere to go.

My ventilation setup:

Roof vent (essential):

• Fiamma Turbo-Vent (£168)
• Size: 400mm x 400mm
• Two-way: Extracts stale air or brings fresh air in
• 12V powered fan
• Rain sensor (automatically closes when raining)

Installation (or pay someone £120-£180):

1. Marked out position (centered, towards rear)
2. Drilled pilot hole from inside
3. Used jigsaw from outside to cut hole (terrifying — measure 10 times)
4. Cleaned metal edges, applied rust treatment
5. Applied Sikaflex 512 sealant around aperture
6. Fitted vent from outside, screwed down (8 screws)
7. Waited 24 hours for sealant to cure
8. Connected 12V power inside
9. Tested for leaks (hosepipe test)

Side windows:

My van came with one sliding window. I added a second fixed window on the other side.

Cost:

• Window (second-hand from van breakers): £85
• Fitting kit: £18
• Sikaflex sealant: £12

Additional ventilation:

Door vents:

• Fitted two air vents to the rear doors (low down)
• Cost: £18 for pair
• These allow air to enter while roof vent extracts

How it works: Fresh air enters through door vents → warms up → rises → exits through roof vent

This creates constant air circulation even when we’re asleep.

Condensation control:

Even with good ventilation, you’ll get some condensation. I manage it with:

• Running the roof vent on low all night
• Cracking a window slightly
• Wiping windows in the morning (takes 30 seconds)
• Not covering windows with poorly-designed covers (blocks airflow)

Total ventilation cost: £388 (roof vent + window + door vents + fitting)

Worth every penny. No mould. No major condensation issues.

Step 11: Final Touches (2-3 days)

The bits that make it liveable.

Window coverings:

I tried:

• Stick-on insulation (£45): Looked rubbish, didn’t fit well
• Curtains (£60): Awkward in a small space, always in the way
• Magnetic insulation panels: This is what I use now

DIY magnetic covers:

• Reflectix cut to window size
• Covered in fabric (£22 for material)
• Small magnets sewn into edges (£8 for pack of magnets)
• Stick to metal window frame

Cost: £30 for all windows. Works brilliantly. Easy to remove during day.

Mattress (don’t cheap out):

I tried a £80 memory foam mattress from Amazon. My back hated me. Now I have a proper one.

Current mattress:

• Duvalay 1.9m x 1.4m memory foam (£285)
• 10cm thick
• Comes with removable washable cover
• Actually comfortable

Bedding:

• Fitted sheet (£15)
• Duvet suitable for the season (£45)
• Pillows (£20)

Lighting:

Beyond my main LED strips, I added:

• Two reading lights (Ikea USB rechargeable, £10 each)
• One exterior light on rear door (£22)
• One under-cupboard light in kitchen (£12)

Fire safety:

Essential:

• Fire extinguisher (1kg ABC powder, £24)
• Mounted near door where I can grab it easily
• CO detector if you have gas (£18)
• Smoke alarm (£15)

All three fitted. Non-negotiable.

Storage solutions:

What I added after living in it:

• Magnetic knife strip (£8)
• Hanging organizer for shoes (£12)
• Collapsible washing up bowl (£8)
• Folding crates for food storage (£15 for 3)
• Head torch hooks by bed (£4)
• Phone holder by bed (£6)

Total final touches: £496 (mattress being the big expense)

Realistic Cost Breakdown: Three Budget Levels

Let me give you three realistic scenarios based on builds I’ve done or helped with.

Budget Level 1: Basic Weekend Warrior (£4,500-£6,000 + van)

Base van: £8,000-£10,000 (older, higher mileage, but solid)

Conversion costs:

• Insulation (basic): £250
• Electrical (AGM battery, split charge, basic lights): £380
• Plumbing (jerrycans, foot pump): £120
• Furniture materials: £300
• Flooring (basic vinyl): £80
• Wall lining (painted ply): £180
• Windows (none added): £0
• Ventilation (roof vent): £180
• Mattress (budget): £150
• Final touches: £280
• Tools (if needed): £450
• Contingency/mistakes: £630

Total conversion: £5,000

Grand total: £13,000-£15,000

What you get:

• Functional camper for weekend trips
• Basic but comfortable
• No frills
• DIY everything

Budget Level 2: Comfortable Year-Round (£10,000-£13,000 + van)

Base van: £11,000-£14,000 (newer, better condition)

Conversion costs:

• Insulation (Celotex throughout): £450
• Electrical (lithium battery, DC-DC, solar, fridge): £1,200
• Plumbing (pump system): £240
• Gas system (hob + professional cert): £420
• Heating (diesel heater): £380
• Furniture materials (better quality): £550
• Flooring (good vinyl): £180
• Wall lining (painted ply + trim): £260
• Windows (one added): £220
• Ventilation (roof vent + extras): £380
• Mattress (decent): £285
• Final touches: £450
• Tools: £350
• Professional help (gas cert, window fitting): £280
• Contingency/mistakes: £855

Total conversion: £12,500

Grand total: £23,500-£26,500

What you get:

• Comfortable year-round living
• All essentials covered
• Can handle winter
• Blend of DIY and professional work

This is roughly what I spent on my current van.

Budget Level 3: Premium Full-Timer (£18,000-£25,000 + van)

Base van: £15,000-£22,000 (low mileage, excellent condition, maybe LWB)

Conversion costs:

• Insulation (spray foam professional): £1,800
• Electrical (big lithium, inverter, 400W solar): £2,400
• Plumbing (fixed tank, hot water): £650
• Gas (hob + heater + professional): £1,200
• Heating (Webasto diesel air heater): £1,400
• Furniture (custom built, quality materials): £1,800
• Flooring (premium LVT): £380
• Wall lining (T&G cladding): £550
• Windows (multiple added, skylights): £850
• Ventilation (Maxxfan, multiple vents): £650
• Wet room (if included): £1,200
• Mattress (premium): £450
• Final touches: £850
• Professional carpentry: £2,400
• Professional electrical: £1,200
• Contingency: £2,220

Total conversion: £20,000

Grand total: £35,000-£42,000

What you get:

• Full-time living comfort
• Professional finish
• All amenities
• Shower, hot water, big battery
• Trades doing specialist work

Most professional converters charge £25,000-£40,000 for this level.

Living With Your Conversion: The Reality

I’ve now lived with my conversion for 14 months. Used it for 120+ nights. Here’s what I’ve learned about actually living in it.

What works brilliantly:

The bed Best decision was making it comfortable. I sleep better in the van than in my house sometimes.

The kitchen Simple two-burner setup is perfect. I’ve cooked everything from full roast dinners to elaborate curries. You don’t need an oven.

The electrical system Lithium battery + solar = freedom. I’ve gone 3 weeks without hookup in summer.

The insulation Worth every penny. Stayed comfortable in -5°C Scottish winter and +28°C Cornwall summer.

What doesn’t work as well:

Storage No matter how much you have, it’s not enough. I’ve optimized three times and it’s still tight.

Working from the van Possible but not ideal. The table’s a bit small. Posture isn’t great. I usually find a cafe.

Cooking for more than 2 The kitchen’s great for two. Had friends over once. Chaos. Stick to simple meals for guests.

Showering I use campsites, wild swimming, or gym memberships. It’s fine but not convenient.

What I wish I’d added:

More USB charging points I have two twin USB sockets. I want four more. Phones, tablets, headphones, battery packs — everything needs charging.

A better table Mine’s a bit small and wobbly. Wish I’d built something more robust.

Exterior storage A roof box or rear storage box for bikes, outdoor gear, etc. would free up interior space.

What I’m glad I didn’t add:

A shower Would’ve taken up valuable space I use for storage. Campsite showers work fine.

An oven Adds weight, uses lots of gas, heats up the van. Don’t miss it.

Fixed furniture everywhere Modularity is gold. So glad I can remove the bed.

Common Problems & Solutions

Problem 1: Condensation

Despite good ventilation, you’ll get some condensation.

Solutions:

• Run roof vent on low overnight
• Wipe windows in morning (takes 30 seconds)
• Don’t dry clothes inside (or expect condensation)
• Small dehumidifier if full-time (£45, works on 12V or USB)

Problem 2: Things Breaking

Vans vibrate. Screws loosen. Things break.

Solutions:

• Carry spare fuses, bulbs, screws
• Use threadlock on screws that keep loosening
• Check all connections monthly
• Keep a toolkit in the van

Problem 3: Running Out of Power

Happens less with solar but still possible in winter.

Solutions:

• Drive for 30-60 minutes to recharge
• Use campsites with hookup
• Reduce consumption (LED lights only, fridge on low)
• Bigger battery (lithium upgrade worth it)

Problem 4: Running Out of Water

20L doesn’t last as long as you’d think.

Solutions:

• Carry extra Jerry cans
• Use public taps (parks, campsites, petrol stations)
• Reduce waste (washing up bowl, not running tap)
• Grey water can be used for flushing toilet

Problem 5: Finding Places to Stay

This is the real challenge in England and Wales.

Solutions:

• Park4Night app (£10/year, best investment)
• Britstops membership (£30/year, farm stays)
• Arrive late, leave early
• Have campsite backup options
• Join vanlife groups for location sharing

Problem 6: Smells

Small space + cooking + bodies = smells.

Solutions:

• Ventilation (obviously)
• Take rubbish out daily
• Baking soda in storage areas
• Air freshener (I use lavender bags, £8)
• Regular deep cleans

Problem 7: Broken Heater at Midnight in Scotland

Happened to me.

Solutions:

• Always carry backup (warm sleeping bag)
• Learn basic troubleshooting
• Keep spares (glow plug for diesel heater, £12)
• Don’t rely on one system

What I’d Do Differently Next Time

I’ve converted four vans. If I did number five (and I probably will), here’s what I’d change:

1. Buy a van with windows already fitted Cutting holes is nerve-wracking and expensive if you cock it up. Spend an extra £500 on a windowed van.

2. Spend more on the battery from day one I bought cheap AGM for £150. Lasted 18 months. Bought lithium for £450. Will last 10+ years. False economy.

3. Make even more furniture removable My bed comes out but it’s still a faff. I’d design everything to be modular from the start.

4. Better soundproofing I did 70% coverage. Should’ve done 90%. Every stone hitting the underside is loud.

5. Professional gas certification from the start I avoided gas initially, then wanted it later and had to retrofit. Cost more in the end.

6. Better cable management My wiring works but it’s messy behind the panels. Would install proper cable trays from the start.

7. More overhead storage I have one overhead cupboard. Wish I’d built three.

8. Bigger worktop 90cm is okay. 120cm would’ve been better. More prep space for cooking.

9. Exterior shower Not for me, but a simple shower point on the outside (£35 worth of parts) would be handy for rinsing sandy feet.

10. Documentation as I built I wish I’d photographed more during the build. Helps when troubleshooting later.

Final Thoughts: Is It Worth It?

Converting a campervan is expensive, time-consuming, occasionally frustrating, and you’ll absolutely make mistakes.

It’s also one of the most rewarding things I’ve ever done.

When you’re parked up somewhere stunning, cooking breakfast while looking at a view that cost nothing, sitting in a space you built with your own hands, knowing you can bugger off to Scotland or Wales or Cornwall whenever you fancy — that’s worth all the hassle.

But be realistic. This isn’t Instagram. It’s:

• Cold mornings wiping condensation
• Cooking in the rain with a door open
• Finding parking at 10pm
• Dealing with broken heaters and flat batteries
• Explaining to yet another person that no, you don’t have a shower

If you’re okay with that reality, build the van.

Start small. Don’t aim for perfection. Build what you need, not what looks good on social media.

And for the love of everything, don’t skip the insulation.

Now stop reading and start building. And when you cock something up (you will), at least you’ll have learned something.

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Essential Resources:

• Forums: Wildcamping.co.uk, T4/T5/T6 Forum, UKCampsite
• Apps: Park4Night (£10/year), iOverlander (free)
• YouTube: Nate Murphy (for electrical), FortyNotOut Campers (UK specific)
• Suppliers: 12V Planet (electrical), CampervanHQ (gas), Screwfix/Toolstation (everything else)
• Groups: UK Vanlife Facebook groups (search by your van model)