I’ve been stopped three times by police in three years of full-time vanlife. Once for a routine check, once because I was parked somewhere dodgy, and once because my number plate was obscured by mud (fair enough).
Each time, I was legal. Licence correct, insurance valid, MOT current, weight within limits. But I’ve met van lifers who weren’t — and the consequences ranged from fines to having their van impounded.
UK driving laws for campervans are more complicated than regular cars. Weight matters. Licence categories matter. Vehicle classification matters. And getting it wrong can cost you hundreds or thousands of pounds.
Here’s everything you need to know to stay legal on UK roads in 2025.
Understanding Your Licence: What You Can Actually Drive
This is where most confusion starts. Your driving license category determines what size van you can legally drive.
Category B License (Standard Car License)
What it is: The standard license you get when you pass your driving test.
What you can drive:
- Vehicles up to 3,500kg Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM)
- Vehicles with up to 8 passenger seats (plus driver)
- Can tow a trailer up to 750kg
- Can tow heavier trailers if combined weight doesn’t exceed 3,500kg
Date matters:
- If you passed BEFORE 1 January 1997: You also have C1 entitlement (see below)
- If you passed AFTER 1 January 1997: You’re limited to 3,500kg
What this means for campervans:
Most panel van conversions fall under 3,500kg. Transit Custom, VW Transporter, Vauxhall Vivaro, Renault Trafic — these are all typically under 3,500kg even when fully converted and loaded.
You’re fine with a Cat B license for these.
My license: Passed in 1988, so i can drive up to 7,500kg. It gives me a wider variety of vehicles to choose from.
Category C1 License (Medium Vehicles)
What it is: Entitlement to drive medium-sized vehicles.
What you can drive:
- Vehicles between 3,500kg and 7,500kg MAM
- Can tow trailers up to 750kg
How to get it:
- If passed test before 1997: You already have it automatically
- If passed test after 1997: You need to take a separate C1 test
Cost to add C1:
- Medical examination: £50-£100
- Theory test: £23
- Practical test: £115
- Training (optional but recommended): £400-£800
- Total: £600-£1,000+
What this means for campervans:
Larger conversions (LWB Sprinter, Crafter, Boxer, Ducato) often exceed 3,500kg when fully loaded. If your van’s MAM is over 3,500kg, you need C1.
Important: MAM is the maximum ALLOWED weight, not actual weight. Even if your 4,000kg MAM van is only loaded to 3,200kg, you still need C1 to drive it legally.
The Weight Trap (This Catches People Out)
Your van’s MAM is on the VIN plate (usually in door frame or under bonnet). It’s also on your V5C registration document.
Common scenario:
Someone buys a LWB Sprinter. Empty weight is 2,800kg. Thinks “that’s under 3,500kg, I’m fine with my Cat B license.”
But the van’s MAM (maximum authorized mass) is 4,100kg. Illegal to drive on Cat B license, regardless of actual loaded weight.
The fine: £1,000 plus 3-6 penalty points for driving without correct licence category. Plus potential insurance invalidation.
I’ve met two people who got caught this way. One had driven for 18 months before being stopped. Both had to pay fines and couldn’t drive their vans until they passed C1.
The solution: Check your van’s MAM BEFORE buying. If it’s over 3,500kg and you only have Cat B, either:
- Choose a different van under 3,500kg MAM
- Get your C1 license before buying
- Have the van “downplated” (see below)
Downplating: Reducing Your Van’s MAM
If your van’s MAM is over 3,500kg but you don’t need the full capacity, you can legally reduce it.
What it means: Official paperwork (via SVA test or manufacturer) that changes your van’s MAM to 3,500kg or below.
Requirements:
- Actual unladen weight must be low enough to make it practical
- Need proper weight plate fitted
- V5C must be updated
- Often requires SVA or IVA test
Cost: £300-£800 depending on method and who does it
Benefits:
- Can drive on Cat B license
- Lower VED (road tax)
- Different speed limits apply (faster)
- Different motorway lane rules
- Cheaper insurance often
Downsides:
- You’re legally limited to 3,500kg loaded (can be weighed and fined if over)
- Reduces payload capacity
- Can be complex process
My take: If you’re buying a van just over 3,500kg MAM and don’t need the extra capacity, downplating is worth considering. But get professional advice — doing it wrong can invalidate insurance.
Speed Limits: It’s Not What You Think
Speed limits for vans are NOT the same as cars. This surprises people constantly.
Current UK Speed Limits for Vans
Depends on vehicle weight:
Vehicles up to 3,050kg laden weight (most small vans):
- Built-up areas: 30mph
- Single carriageways: 60mph
- Dual carriageways: 70mph
- Motorways: 70mph
Vehicles 3,050kg+ laden weight OR derived from goods vehicles:
- Built-up areas: 30mph
- Single carriageways: 50mph (NOT 60mph)
- Dual carriageways: 60mph (NOT 70mph)
- Motorways: 70mph (but often restricted to left two lanes)
The confusion: Most panel van conversions are “derived from goods vehicles” regardless of weight. So even if your converted Transit Custom weighs 2,800kg, if it’s classified as a van, you’re legally limited to 50mph on single carriageways and 60mph on dual carriageways.
Vehicle Classification Matters
Here’s where it gets messy.
According to DVLA, there are different classifications:
M1 (Motor Caravan):
- Registered as motor caravan on V5C
- Subject to CAR speed limits (60/70/70/70)
- Can use outside lane on motorways
- Better for driving, insurance can be better
N1 (Van):
- Registered as van/goods vehicle on V5C
- Subject to VAN speed limits (50/60/70/70)
- Some motorways restrict to inside lanes
- Cheaper VED usually
The critical bit: What matters is what’s on your V5C, not what your van looks like inside.
If your V5C says “Body Type: Van”, you’re subject to van speed limits even if you’ve converted it to a camper.
If your V5C says “Body Type: Motor Caravan”, you follow car speed limits.
Changing Your V5C Classification
You CAN change your van classification from “van” to “motor caravan” if it meets DVLA requirements.
DVLA requirements for motor caravan classification:
- Fixed seating
- Fixed sleeping accommodation
- Fixed cooking facilities
- Fixed storage facilities
How to do it:
- Take photos showing all fixed installations
- Fill in V5C section to notify DVLA of changes
- Submit with photos and explanation
- Wait 4-6 weeks for updated V5C
Cost: Free (just postage)
My experience: I changed my third van from “van” to “motor caravan”. Took photos showing fixed bed, cooker, storage, seating. DVLA accepted it within 3 weeks. Now I can legally do 60mph on single carriageways.
The catch: Some insurance companies charge MORE for motor caravans (considered higher value, more theft risk). Check with your insurer BEFORE changing.
Warning: Changing to motor caravan can increase VED. Check current rates first.
Speed Camera Reality
Speed cameras don’t care what your V5C says. They catch you speeding, you get the ticket.
But the defense:
If you’re doing 60mph on a single carriageway in a van classified as motor caravan, that’s legal. If your V5C says “van”, it’s illegal.
Arguing in court that “I thought it was a motor caravan because I converted it” won’t work. Your V5C classification is what matters legally.
The trap I’ve seen: People convert vans, assume they’re motor caravans, drive at car speed limits, get caught by cameras, receive fines and points.
Don’t assume. Check your V5C. Change it if needed.
MOT Requirements: What Gets Tested, What Fails
MOT Frequency
Vehicles under 3,500kg MAM:
- First MOT: 3 years after first registration
- Subsequent MOTs: Annually
Vehicles over 3,500kg MAM:
- First MOT: 1 year after first registration
- Subsequent MOTs: Annually
Cost:
- Under 3,500kg: £54.85 maximum
- Over 3,500kg: £58.60 maximum (Class 7 test)
My current van: 2019 Transit Custom, first MOT due 2022, annual since then. Passed every time (so far).
Common MOT Failures for Campervans
I’ve seen dozens of conversions fail MOT. Here are the common issues:
1. Obstructed lights/reflectors
Rear storage boxes, bike racks, or poorly positioned equipment blocking lights or reflectors.
Solution: Make sure all lights and reflectors visible and unobstructed. Remove external storage before MOT if it blocks anything.
2. Additional weight affecting suspension/brakes
Conversion adds 300-500kg. If your van’s suspension or brakes aren’t up to it, they fail.
Solution: Upgrade suspension if needed (£200-£500). Have brakes inspected before MOT.
3. Insecure items
Loose furniture, unsecured gas bottles, batteries not strapped down — these can fail you.
Tester discretion: Some testers are lenient (“that should be secured better but I’ll pass it”). Others are strict (“that gas bottle’s not secured, fail”).
Solution: Secure everything properly before MOT. Gas bottles in proper brackets, batteries strapped, furniture screwed down.
4. Altered emissions system
If you’ve removed catalytic converter or DPF (diesel particulate filter), automatic fail.
Reality: Some people remove DPFs because they’re troublesome. It’s illegal, voids emissions compliance, and fails MOT.
Don’t do it. The £1,000 to fix a DPF properly is cheaper than fines (up to £1,000) plus having to replace it anyway.
5. Tyres
Conversion weight can exceed tire rating. If your tires aren’t rated for your van’s MAM, that’s a fail.
Solution: Check tire load rating. Upgrade if needed. Budget £400-£600 for four commercial-rated tires.
6. Windscreen obstruction
Decorative curtains, fairy lights, or other items obstructing driver’s view fail MOT.
Solution: Remove or reposition before test.
The “Motor Caravan” MOT Test
If your V5C says “motor caravan”, your MOT is slightly different from a van MOT.
Key differences:
- Interior checked for hazards (loose items, sharp edges)
- Gas system checked for leaks (if fitted)
- Electrical system checked more thoroughly
- Sleeping/living areas assessed for safety
Not all MOT centres do motor caravan tests. Check before booking. Many small garages only do Class 4 (cars) or Class 7 (vans), not motor caravans specifically.
My recommendation: Find an MOT station experienced with campervans. They know what to look for and what can be overlooked.
Insurance: Getting It Right (And Affordable)
Types of Insurance for Campervans
1. Standard Van Insurance
Cheapest option (usually). Covers the van as a goods vehicle. Doesn’t cover conversion or contents.
Typical cost: £400-£800 per year for panel van
Problem: If you crash, you’re only covered for the base van value. Your £8,000 conversion and £3,000 of contents? Not covered.
2. Van Conversion Insurance
Covers the base van PLUS conversion value. Contents often optional extra.
Typical cost: £500-£1,000 per year
Requires: Photos of conversion, proof of spend on conversion, list of modifications
Benefits: Full replacement value including conversion work
This is what I use. I declared my conversion, submitted photos, pay £680/year. If I crash, I get full value not just base van.
3. Motor Caravan Insurance
Specialist campervan/motorhome insurance. Usually most comprehensive but can be expensive.
Typical cost: £600-£1,200 per year
Benefits:
- Covers conversion and contents
- Personal belongings cover
- European cover usually included
- Breakdown cover options
- Agreed value (not market value)
Drawbacks: More expensive, need V5C to say “motor caravan”
Declaring Modifications
You MUST declare:
- Any conversion work
- Sleeping facilities
- Cooking equipment
- Plumbing/water systems
- Electrical systems
- Solar panels
- Roof vents
- External storage
- Suspension upgrades
- Wheel/tire changes
- Any structural changes
Penalty for not declaring: Insurance can be voided. If you crash, they investigate, find undeclared modifications, they can refuse to pay out.
I’ve heard of this happening. Someone crashed, insurer inspected wreck, found full camper conversion that was never declared. Refused claim. Person lost van and got nothing.
My approach: I over-declare. If there’s any doubt, I declare it. I’d rather pay slightly more premium than risk invalidating insurance.
Common Insurance Mistakes
Mistake 1: Assuming regular van insurance covers conversion
It doesn’t. Standard commercial van insurance covers the vehicle only, not modifications or contents.
Mistake 2: Not updating insurance after conversion
Some people buy a van, get insurance, then convert it and never tell the insurer.
When they need to claim, the insurer discovers the conversion and voids the policy.
Solution: Tell your insurer you’re converting. Update them when it’s complete. Get it properly covered.
Mistake 3: Using wrong address
If you’re full-time vanlife, you technically don’t have a fixed address. But insurance requires one.
What people do: Use a friend/family address. This is tolerated but officially you’re meant to inform insurer if you’re living in the vehicle full-time.
What I do: I use my parents’ address as registered address. Insurer knows I’m living in the van full-time (I told them). No issues so far.
Mistake 4: Not declaring business use
If you use your van for ANY business (even just driving to work sites, carrying tools), you need business use on your insurance.
“Social, domestic and pleasure” doesn’t cover work-related use.
Cost to add business use: Usually £20-£60 per year. Cheap compared to voided insurance.
Getting Cheaper Insurance
Ways I’ve reduced my insurance:
- Fit approved trackers: Saves 10-20%. I’ve got a Thatcham-approved tracker (£200 installed). Saves me about £80/year.
- Advanced driving course: IAM or RoSPA courses (£100-£200) can reduce premiums 10-15%.
- Increase voluntary excess: I’ve got £500 voluntary excess. Saves about £100/year on premium.
- Limited mileage: If you genuinely do under 5,000 miles per year, declare it. Saves money.
- Comparison sites: Check GoCompare, Compare the Market, MoneySupermarket. Prices vary wildly.
- Specialist insurers: Companies like Comfort Insurance, Safeguard, Caravan Guard specialise in campervans and often beat mainstream quotes.
My current insurance: £680/year with Comfort Insurance. Fully comp, declared conversion, £10,000 conversion value, £2,000 contents, business use, Europe cover (30 days), tracker discount.
VED (Road Tax): What You’ll Pay
VED (Vehicle Excise Duty, aka road tax) depends on vehicle type, weight, and emissions.
For Vans (N1 Classification)
Most common for van conversions:
Euro 6 compliant (registered after Sept 2016):
- Light goods vehicle (under 3,500kg): £315 per year
Euro 5 or older:
- Light goods vehicle: £315 per year
Over 3,500kg:
- £165 per year (yes, actually cheaper)
For Motor Caravans (M1 Classification)
More complicated – based on CO2 emissions for vehicles registered after March 2001:
First year rate: Based on CO2 (can be £0 to £2,605)
Standard rate (year 2 onwards):
- Most campervans: £190-£315 per year
- Expensive vans (list price over £40,000 when new): Additional £390/year for first 5 years (ouch)
Real Examples
My current van:
- 2019 Transit Custom panel van
- Registered as “van” on V5C
- VED: £315 per year
Friend’s van:
- 2020 Sprinter converted
- Changed to “motor caravan” on V5C
- VED: £190 per year (lower emissions rating helped)
The variable: Changing from van to motor caravan CAN reduce VED, but not always. Check online using your registration before changing.
Parking Laws: Where You Can and Can’t Stop
This is the bit that causes most confusion and police interactions.
Is Wild Camping Legal in the UK?
Short answer: It’s complicated and depends where you are.
England & Wales:
Wild camping (sleeping in your vehicle) is NOT automatically legal. It’s tolerated in many places but technically:
- Parking on public roads overnight: Usually legal (unless signs say otherwise)
- Sleeping in your vehicle on public roads: Grey area, often tolerated
- Parking on private land: Requires permission
- Parking in “no overnight parking” zones: Illegal
Reality: Thousands of people do it nightly. Most police don’t care unless you’re causing problems. But they CAN move you on or issue fines if they want to.
Scotland:
Scottish Outdoor Access Code permits wild camping on most unenclosed land, including sleeping in vehicles.
BUT:
- Still can’t park anywhere (road laws apply)
- Some areas have camping management zones (restrictions)
- Loch Lomond, Trossachs, and some popular areas have camping bylaws
Reality: Scotland is the most van-friendly part of UK. I’ve spent months touring Scotland and been moved on once (Loch Lomond camping bylaw area).
Northern Ireland:
Similar to England/Wales. Technically not legal without permission, widely tolerated.
Understanding Parking Restrictions
Public roads without restrictions:
- You can park as long as you like (unless causing obstruction)
- Sleeping in your vehicle is a grey area (tolerated usually)
- No camping signs mean no setting up outside (chairs, awnings, etc.)
Yellow lines:
- Single yellow: Check signs for times (often free overnight)
- Double yellow: No parking at any time
- You can be ticketed or towed
Parking meters:
- Must pay during enforcement hours
- Often free overnight (check signs)
- Overstaying = ticket
Private land:
- Car parks, fields, land with gates: Private property
- Parking without permission = trespassing (civil matter)
- Can be asked to leave or clamped
Common Parking Offenses
1. Causing an obstruction
If your van blocks access, visibility, or traffic flow, you can be fined or moved on.
Penalty: £100 fine typically
My experience: Parked too close to a junction once (didn’t realise). Traffic warden gave me a ticket. £100. Fair enough, I was being a bit of a knob.
2. Parking in restricted hours
Yellow line restrictions, permit zones, and time-limited bays.
Penalty: £70-£130 depending on area (reduced if paid within 14 days)
3. Overnight parking where prohibited
Many car parks have “no overnight parking” signs.
Penalty: Varies. Council land: £70-£100 fine. Private land: Often £100 “parking charge” (not fine, legally different).
4. Setting up camp on public land
Chairs, awnings, rugs, BBQs outside your van can get you moved on or fined under anti-camping bylaws.
Penalty: £100-£1,000 depending on location and bylaw specifics
My rule: I don’t set anything up outside the van unless I’m on private land with permission or at a campsite. Keeps things simple.
Dealing with Police/Wardens
I’ve been approached by police three times:
Interaction 1 (Routine check):
- Polite, professional
- Asked where I was from, where I was going
- Checked license, insurance, MOT
- Chatted about vanlife for 5 minutes
- Left me alone
Interaction 2 (Suspicious parking):
- Parked in industrial estate late at night (needed quiet spot)
- Police knocked, asked what I was doing
- Explained I was sleeping, showed them inside (tidy, clearly not dealing drugs)
- They laughed, said “fair enough, have a good night”
Interaction 3 (Number plate obscured):
- Been driving on muddy tracks
- Police stopped me, couldn’t read rear plate
- Asked me to clean it (fair)
- Gave me cloth and water from their car
- No ticket, just warning
The lesson: Be polite, cooperative, honest. Most police don’t care about people sleeping in vans. They care about crime, safety, and not being lied to.
If asked to move on: Just move on. Arguing achieves nothing. Thank them politely, drive somewhere else.
Towing with Your Campervan
Many van lifers tow trailers (bikes, tools, extra storage). Rules are specific.
What You Can Tow on Different Licences
Category B (standard license):
- Trailer up to 750kg MAM (no additional test needed)
- Trailer over 750kg IF combined MAM of van + trailer doesn’t exceed 3,500kg
- For anything bigger: Need B+E license (car + trailer test)
Category C1:
- Trailer up to 750kg MAM
- For heavier trailers: Need C1+E
Towing Speed Limits
Even slower than vans alone:
- Built-up areas: 30mph
- Single carriageways: 50mph
- Dual carriageways: 60mph
- Motorways: 60mph (NOT 70mph)
Critical: These apply even if your van is registered as motor caravan. Towing changes the rules.
Towing Requirements
Your van needs:
- Approved towbar (fitted properly)
- Working lights on trailer (connected via 7-pin or 13-pin socket)
- Proper breakaway cable
- Trailer registration if over 750kg
- Insurance covering trailer (check policy)
The trailer needs:
- VIN plate showing MAM
- Working lights (brake, indicator, number plate)
- Proper coupling that fits your towbar
- Secure load
- Correct tire pressure
Common mistake: Using a trailer without checking it’s legal. I’ve seen people tow unregistered trailers, trailers with broken lights, and trailers loaded beyond their MAM.
All of these are illegal and can result in fines (£100-£1,000) plus points on license (3-6).
Load Security: This Gets Checked
Police and DVSA (Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency) can stop you and inspect your load.
Legal Requirements
All loads must be:
- Secured so they can’t fall off
- Distributed so vehicle remains stable
- Not projecting dangerously
- Not obscuring lights, reflectors, or number plates
Penalties for insecure loads:
- £100 fixed penalty
- 3 points on license
- Potentially dangerous loads: Court appearance, up to £5,000 fine
What This Means for Campervans
Inside the van:
Technically, loose items inside are part of your load. In a crash or sudden stop, unsecured items become projectiles.
Heavy items (batteries, gas bottles, water tanks) MUST be secured. Strapped down, bracketed, or in proper housings.
Furniture should be secured to van structure. Screwed to walls, floor, or frame.
I’ve seen people get pulled over and checked. Police looked inside, saw unsecured gas bottles, issued verbal warning. Could have been a fine.
External storage:
Roof boxes, rear storage, bike racks — all must be properly secured with appropriate fixings.
I use:
- Thule roof bars (£150) with proper mounting
- Fiamma bike rack (£200) bolted to van
- External storage box secured with M10 bolts (not just adhesive)
Never had issues with police, but I’ve seen people with poorly secured roof boxes get stopped and fined.
European Travel: Taking Your Van Abroad
Many UK van lifers tour Europe. Additional requirements apply.
Essential Documents
You need:
- Valid driving licence
- Vehicle registration document (V5C)
- Valid insurance with European cover
- MOT certificate (if applicable)
- Passport (obviously)
You might need:
- International Driving Permit (for some countries outside EU)
- Green Card (insurance proof – some insurers still issue these)
- V103 form if van is company-owned or you’re borrowing it
Legal Requirements for Europe
GB sticker/number plate:
UK vehicles need GB identifier visible from rear. Can be:
- GB sticker on rear of vehicle
- Number plate with GB on it
Headlight beam deflectors:
UK headlights dip to left (for UK driving). In Europe (driving on right), you need deflectors to adjust beam pattern.
Cost: £5-£8 for stick-on deflectors
My experience: Bought deflectors at Dover for £6. Takes 2 minutes to fit. Mandatory in most European countries.
High-vis vests:
Many countries require high-vis vests for all occupants in case of breakdown.
Cost: £3-£5 for a set
Where required: France, Spain, Italy, Belgium, many others
Warning triangle:
Required in most European countries.
Cost: £5-£10
Spare bulbs:
Some countries (France, Spain) require spare bulb kit.
Cost: £10-£15
Reality: Rarely checked, but required technically.
Fire extinguisher (some countries):
Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey require fire extinguisher in vehicle.
Cost: £15-£25
Insurance for Europe
Check your policy for:
- How many days cover in Europe (often 30-90 days)
- Which countries covered (some exclude eastern Europe or Turkey)
- Breakdown cover in Europe
- Whether you’re covered for full-time living abroad
My policy: 90 days European cover per trip, breakdown cover via separate policy (RAC Europe, £120/year).
I’ve toured Europe twice. Never needed breakdown cover but glad I had it.
Speed Limits in Europe
Vary by country. Examples:
France:
- Built-up: 50km/h
- Country roads: 80km/h
- Motorways: 130km/h (reduced in rain)
Spain:
- Built-up: 50km/h
- Country roads: 90km/h
- Motorways: 120km/h
Germany:
- Built-up: 50km/h
- Country roads: 100km/h
- Motorways: Often no limit (recommended 130km/h)
For vans over 3.5t: Usually limited to 80-100km/h on motorways across Europe.
Common Myths and Misconceptions
Myth 1: “If I convert my van to a camper, it’s automatically a motor caravan”
False.
Your vehicle classification is what’s on your V5C, not what you’ve built inside. You need to apply to DVLA to change classification.
Myth 2: “I can sleep anywhere as long as I’m not causing a problem”
Partly true, mostly false.
While many places tolerate overnight parking, there’s no automatic legal right to sleep in your vehicle on public roads in England/Wales. Scotland has better access rights, but even there you can be moved on.
Myth 3: “Speed limits don’t apply to me because I’m in a converted camper”
False.
Speed limits are based on vehicle type and MAM, not interior fitout. If you’re classified as a van, van limits apply. If motor caravan, car limits apply. Check your V5C.
Myth 4: “I don’t need to declare my conversion to insurance”
False and dangerous.
Undeclared modifications can void insurance. Always declare conversions, upgrades, and modifications.
Myth 5: “Police can’t make me move if I’m legally parked”
False.
Police have powers to move vehicles causing obstruction, likely to cause danger, or in anti-camping bylaw areas. Technically legal parking doesn’t prevent being moved on.
Myth 6: “Motor caravan classification reduces my insurance”
Sometimes true, often false.
Some insurers charge MORE for motor caravans (higher theft risk, higher value). Check before changing V5C classification.
Enforcement: What Actually Happens
DVSA Roadside Checks
Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency run roadside checks, especially for commercial vehicles.
They check:
- Vehicle condition (tires, lights, brakes)
- Load security
- Driver hours (if applicable)
- License validity
- Insurance and MOT
- Emissions compliance
Penalties range from:
- Verbal warnings
- Fixed penalties (£100-£300)
- Prohibition notice (van impounded until fixed)
- Court summons for serious offenses
My experience: Never been stopped by DVSA (yet). But I’ve seen them operating on A-roads, mostly checking commercial vans and lorries. Campervans less commonly targeted, but they can stop anyone.
Police Traffic Stops
Reasons police stop campervans:
- Random checks
- Suspicious behavior/location
- Traffic offenses (speeding, running lights)
- Intelligence (vehicle reported)
- ANPR (automatic number plate recognition) hits
What they check:
- License validity
- Insurance
- MOT
- Vehicle condition
- Driver sobriety
- Load security (sometimes)
Your rights:
You must provide:
- Name and address
- License (or take test within 7 days)
- Insurance details
- MOT details
You don’t have to:
- Let them search without grounds
- Answer questions about where you’ve been/going (though being cooperative helps)
- Consent to vehicle search without reasonable grounds
My approach: Polite, cooperative, honest. I’ve never had a problem because I keep everything legal and don’t give them reasons to investigate further.
Parking Enforcement
Council wardens can:
- Issue tickets for parking violations
- Arrange for vehicle removal (if causing obstruction)
- Enforce parking restrictions
They can’t:
- Force you to move immediately (unless police present)
- Enter your vehicle
- Demand to see inside
Private parking companies can:
- Issue parking charges (not fines – legally different)
- Pursue charges through courts
- Clamp in some circumstances (rare now)
They can’t:
- Physically stop you leaving
- Demand payment on the spot
- Tow your vehicle (usually)
Regional Differences: England vs Scotland vs Wales
Scotland
Most van-friendly region:
- Scottish Outdoor Access Code permits wild camping
- Less enforcement of overnight parking
- More tolerance generally
- Camping management zones in popular areas (Loch Lomond, etc.)
My experience: Spent 4 months touring Scotland. Moved on once (camping bylaw area). Otherwise completely hassle-free.
Wales
Middle ground:
- Similar rules to England technically
- More rural, less enforcement
- Some areas very van-friendly
- Popular spots (Snowdonia, Pembrokeshire coast) have more restrictions
My experience: Wales is generally tolerant. Coastal car parks often have “no overnight” signs but enforcement varies.
England
Most restrictive:
- Technically no right to wild camp
- More enforcement in popular areas
- Many car parks have explicit overnight parking bans
- Urban areas least tolerant
My experience: England requires more careful spot selection. I’ve been moved on 3-4 times in England vs once in Scotland.
Penalties Reference Table
Quick reference for common offenses:
| Offense | Penalty | Points |
|---|---|---|
| Driving without correct license category | £1,000 | 3-6 |
| No insurance | £300 fixed / Unlimited court fine | 6-8 |
| No MOT | £1,000 | 0 |
| Speeding (minor) | £100 | 3 |
| Speeding (major) | £1,000-£2,500 | 3-6 or ban |
| Insecure load | £100-£5,000 | 3 |
| Parking violation | £70-£130 | 0 |
| Towing overweight | £300 | 3 |
| Obstructing highway | £1,000 | 3 |
| Using phone while driving | £200 | 6 |
| No seatbelt | £100 | 0 |
Practical Tips for Staying Legal
1. Keep Physical Documents Accessible
In my van I keep:
- Driving licence (always on me)
- Insurance documents (folder in cab)
- MOT certificate (folder in cab)
- V5C photocopy (original stored safely)
- Breakdown cover details (phone number essential)
Police can check most of this electronically now, but having physical documents makes stops quicker.
2. Know Your Van’s Vital Stats
Memorize or have written down:
- MAM (maximum authorized mass)
- Actual unladen weight
- Payload capacity
- VIN number
- License plate
- Insurance policy number
You’ll need these for:
- Weighbridges
- Police checks
- Border crossings
- Insurance claims
- MOT bookings
3. Regular Checks
Weekly:
- Tire pressures (critically important when loaded)
- Lights (all of them – brake, indicators, reverse, fog)
- Number plates visible and clean
Monthly:
- Tire tread depth (legal minimum 1.6mm, I replace at 3mm)
- Screen wash topped up
- Coolant and oil levels
Before long trips:
- Full vehicle walk-around check
- Load security check
- Document check (insurance, MOT current)
4. Weight Management
Get your van weighed fully loaded. Weighbridges cost £5-£20 for a weigh-in.
Why this matters:
- Confirms you’re under your MAM
- Shows actual payload remaining
- Evidence if ever questioned
I got my van weighed at a quarry weighbridge. Fully loaded with water, food, gear: 3,280kg. My MAM is 3,500kg. That gives me 220kg buffer, which is reassuring.
Where to weigh:
- Public weighbridges (Google “weighbridge near me”)
- Some council sites
- Quarries and agricultural suppliers
- Truck stops
5. Join a Van Community
Facebook groups, forums, or local meetups provide:
- Real-time updates on enforcement changes
- Warnings about parking crackdowns
- Advice on legal grey areas
- Support if you get into trouble
I’m in three UK vanlife Facebook groups. The community has warned me about parking crackdowns, shared legal updates, and helped when I had insurance questions.
What to Do If Stopped by Police
Stay calm. Most interactions are routine.
Be polite. “Good morning officer” goes a long way.
Be honest. Lying or being evasive makes things worse.
Provide requested documents: License, insurance, MOT.
You can ask: “Am I suspected of an offense?” and “Am I free to go?”
You don’t have to: Answer questions about your trip, where you’re staying, or personal details beyond name/address.
If they want to search your van:
- They need reasonable grounds (suspicion of crime/drugs/weapons)
- You can refuse consent
- They can search anyway if they have grounds
- Ask for their name, badge number, and reason for search
My experience: I’ve always been cooperative and honest. One officer asked if he could look inside (checking I wasn’t a drug dealer). I said yes, showed him my tidy camper conversion, he laughed and left. Being defensive would have made it worse.
If you receive a ticket or penalty:
- Get details in writing
- Note officer’s name/number
- Take photos if relevant
- Don’t argue at the roadside (deal with it later)
Future Changes to Watch (2025 and Beyond)
Clean Air Zones (CAZ):
More cities implementing CAZ (London, Birmingham, Bristol, Bath, others following).
What this means:
- Older vans (pre-Euro 6 diesel, pre-2006 petrol) pay daily charges
- Charges vary: £8-£12.50 per day typically
- Some CAZ zones exempt motor caravans (check local rules)
My van: Euro 6 compliant (2019), so CAZ-exempt currently.
Road pricing:
Government considering road pricing schemes (pay per mile). May affect vans differently than cars.
Status: Proposed, not implemented yet. Watch this space.
Electric van requirements:
As electric vans become common, expect infrastructure for charging and regulations for electrical installations in conversions.
Updated wild camping legislation:
Some councils pushing for stricter overnight parking bans. Scotland considering changes to access rights in over-visited areas.
Trend: Generally getting stricter, not more relaxed.
Resources and Useful Contacts
DVLA:
- Website: gov.uk/browse/driving/drivers-licences
- Phone: 0300 790 6801
- For V5C changes, license queries, vehicle classification
GOV.UK:
- gov.uk/driving-laws-uk
- Official source for all UK driving law
DVSA:
- gov.uk/government/organisations/driver-and-vehicle-standards-agency
- Vehicle standards, MOT, roadside enforcement
Camping and Caravanning Club:
- campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk
- Legal advice, site database, insurance services
Scottish Outdoor Access Code:
- outdooraccess-scotland.scot
- Wild camping rules and guidance for Scotland
Park4Night app:
- User-generated database of parking spots
- Shows legal status (often user-reported, verify independently)
Final Thoughts: It’s Easier Than It Looks
UK driving laws for campervans seem complicated at first. License categories, weight limits, speed limits, classifications — it’s a lot.
But in practice, if you:
- Check your licence covers your van’s MAM
- Keep insurance, MOT, and VED current
- Drive at appropriate speed limits
- Park considerately and move when asked
- Secure your load and keep vehicle maintained
You’ll be absolutely fine.
I’ve done three years full-time, driven thousands of miles, parked hundreds of places, and been stopped three times with zero fines or penalties.
The key: Don’t try to game the system. Just follow the rules, keep documents current, be respectful to authorities and local residents.
Most police, wardens, and officials are reasonable. If you’re legal, cooperative, and not causing problems, they’ll leave you alone.
And on the rare occasion something goes wrong? Deal with it calmly. Pay the fine if it’s fair, appeal if it’s not, and move on with your life.
Vanlife in the UK is absolutely doable within the law. You just need to know the rules and follow them.
Got specific legal questions about your situation? I’m not a lawyer (obviously), but I’ve been through most scenarios. Drop me a message through the contact page and I’ll share what I know.
I’ve made a lot of mistakes in this guide. Most of them multiple times. There’s the time I ran out of water in the…
I installed 400W of solar on my first van because everyone online said “get as much as possible.” I spent £800 on panels and mounting. Then I calculated my actual usage: 60Ah per day, maybe 70Ah on heavy days. My 400W was generating 100-120Ah daily in summer. I was massively oversized, wasting £400+ on panels I didn’t need.
My second van? 200W of solar. Properly calculated, correctly sized, half the cost. And guess what—I’ve never run out of power.
Here’s what nobody tells you: solar sizing isn’t about maximizing roof space. It’s about matching your actual consumption, understanding British weather reality, and not spending money on watts you’ll never use.
I’ve tested panels from £60 budget ones to £400 premium German ones. I’ve measured output in Scottish winters (depressing), English summers (surprisingly good), and everything between. I’ve installed flexible panels that failed within months and rigid panels still perfect after three years.
This is everything I’ve learned about choosing the right solar panels for your campervan: the maths everyone skips, the performance expectations nobody wants to admit, and why that Instagram van with 800W of solar is probably lying about their off-grid lifestyle.
This guide will help you select the best solar panels for your campervan, ensuring you have the right setup for your needs, including tips on choosing the right solar panels for your campervan.
Table of Contents
- Understanding Your Actual Power Needs
- Solar Panel Types: What Actually Matters
- Real-World Solar Output in UK Weather
- Sizing Your Solar Array
- Roof Space Reality Check
- Flexible vs Rigid Panels
- Budget Planning
- Mounting Methods
- Wiring and Series vs Parallel
- Common Mistakes
- Specific Recommendations
Understanding Your Actual Power Needs
Before you even look at solar panels, you need to understand what you’re powering. I’ve watched countless people buy 600W of solar for a setup that uses 30Ah daily. It’s daft.
Calculate Your Daily Consumption
List every device and its power consumption. Be honest about usage.
My actual consumption (full-time remote work + comfortable living):
| Device | Power | Daily Use | Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Laptop charging | 60W | 4 hours | 240Wh |
| Phone charging (×2) | 20W | 2 hours | 40Wh |
| LED lighting | 15W | 4 hours | 60Wh |
| Water pump | 40W | 15 mins | 10Wh |
| Diesel heater fan | 15W | 4 hours | 60Wh |
| Fridge (compressor) | 45W | 8h runtime | 360Wh |
| Misc (speakers, etc) | 10W | 2 hours | 20Wh |
| Total Daily | 790Wh |
Convert to amp-hours: 790Wh ÷ 12V = 65.8Ah per day
That’s my heavy usage day. Light days (no laptop work, eating out) are closer to 40Ah.
Add Buffer for Inefficiency
Solar controllers are 95-98% efficient. Batteries lose 5-10% to self-discharge and heating. Cables have resistance. Total system efficiency is typically 85-90%.
Actual daily consumption accounting for losses: 65.8Ah ÷ 0.88 = 74.8Ah needed
Round up for safety: 75-80Ah daily generation needed
Account for Battery Capacity
Your solar needs to:
- Replace daily usage
- Charge battery from lowest expected state
- Provide enough to reach 100% occasionally (for battery health)
My setup:
- 200Ah lithium battery
- Use 70Ah daily (35% of capacity)
- Can run 2-3 days without sun if needed
- Solar generates 80-100Ah on decent days
This math works. I’ve used it for two years.
The Critical Question: What Happens When Solar Isn’t Enough?
Be honest:
- Do you drive daily? (Alternator charging supplements solar)
- Can you access hookup occasionally? (Every 2-3 weeks?)
- Are you genuinely off-grid for weeks at a time?
If you drive 30+ minutes daily, alternator provides significant charging. Your solar can be smaller.
If you’re parked for weeks with no driving, you need solar to cover 100% of consumption plus battery inefficiencies.
My reality: I drive 2-3 times per week, 30-60 minutes average. This provides maybe 20-30Ah weekly from alternator. My 200W solar handles 90% of my power needs. The alternator is backup.
Solar Panel Types: What Actually Matters
The solar panel market is full of marketing bollocks. Let’s cut through it.
Monocrystalline vs Polycrystalline
Monocrystalline (black panels):
- Higher efficiency (18-22% typical)
- Better performance in low light
- More expensive (£80-150 per 100W)
- What I recommend for vans
Polycrystalline (blue panels):
- Lower efficiency (15-18% typical)
- Cheaper (£60-100 per 100W)
- Slightly worse in cloudy conditions
- Acceptable if budget is tight
Reality check: The efficiency difference is 2-4%. On a 100W panel, that’s 2-4W. In British weather, you won’t notice. But monocrystalline performs marginally better in low light (common in UK), so worth the small premium if you can afford it.
I run monocrystalline panels. Would polycrystalline work? Probably. Am I glad I have monocrystalline on grey November days? Yes.
Efficiency Ratings: What They Actually Mean
A 20% efficient panel converts 20% of solar energy into electricity. The other 80% becomes heat.
Common efficiency ranges:
- Budget panels: 16-18%
- Mid-range: 18-20%
- Premium: 20-22%
- “High-efficiency” (expensive): 22-24%
Does 22% vs 18% matter?
On a 100W panel (roughly 1.2m × 0.55m = 0.66m²):
- 18% efficient: generates 100W peak
- 22% efficient: generates 122W peak
Difference: 22W at peak sun (which you get maybe 3-4 hours in summer, 1-2 in winter).
Daily difference in UK summer: ~75Wh extra (6Ah at 12V) Daily difference in UK winter: ~20Wh extra (1.6Ah at 12V)
Is 6Ah extra worth £50-100 more? Usually no, unless roof space is severely limited.
I run 18-19% efficient panels. The premium for 22% panels wasn’t justified for my roof space and usage.
Temperature Coefficient: The Spec Nobody Talks About
Solar panels lose efficiency when hot. In UK summers, roof-mounted panels hit 45-55°C on hot days.
Temperature coefficient is typically -0.4% per °C above 25°C.
Example: Panel at 50°C (25°C above reference)
- Efficiency loss: 25°C × -0.4% = -10%
- Your 100W panel produces 90W at peak
This matters more in summer when you have most sun. Ironic.
Better temperature coefficient (premium panels): -0.35% to -0.3% per °C
Is this worth paying for? In UK, probably not. We’re not Australia. Our panels rarely sustain 50°C+ for hours.
I’ve measured my panels in summer: 48°C peak. For 3-4 hours per day. The efficiency loss is real but not catastrophic.
Warranty: The Specification That Actually Matters
Solar panels degrade over time. Quality panels degrade slower.
Typical warranties:
- Budget panels: 5-10 years product, 80% output at 10 years
- Mid-range: 10 years product, 80% output at 25 years
- Premium: 12-25 years product, 85% output at 25 years
What this means: After 10 years, your 100W panel produces 80-85W.
For vans, you’ll likely change vans before warranty matters. But it indicates build quality.
I prioritize product warranty (covers failures) over output warranty (covers degradation). Panels failing from vibration or moisture is more likely than gradual degradation in a 5-10 year van lifespan.
Brand Recognition vs Generic
Premium brands (Victron, Renogy, SunPower, LG):
- Proven reliability
- Actual warranties you can claim
- Consistent quality control
- 2-3x cost of generic
Mid-tier brands (Eco-Worthy, ALLPOWERS, Newpowa):
- Acceptable quality
- Hit-or-miss warranty claims
- Sometimes good, sometimes disappointing
- 1.5-2x cost of generic
Generic Amazon panels:
- Wildly inconsistent quality
- Warranty claims are nightmares
- Sometimes great value, sometimes instant regret
- Cheapest option
My experience: I’ve tested premium (Victron, Renogy) and mid-tier (Eco-Worthy). Both worked. Victron panels are marginally better built (thicker glass, better junction box) but not 2x better.
I run Renogy panels now. Would Eco-Worthy work? Probably. Would generic Amazon panels? Maybe—too much risk for savings.
Real-World Solar Output in UK Weather
Right, let’s talk about the reality nobody wants to admit. Those panel ratings? Peak performance in ideal conditions. UK weather is not ideal conditions.
Understanding Panel Ratings
A “100W” panel produces 100W under standard test conditions:
- 1000W/m² irradiance (bright sunny day)
- 25°C panel temperature
- Perpendicular sun angle
In UK, you rarely get all three simultaneously.
Actual UK Solar Output: Month by Month
I’ve logged my 200W array output for two full years. Here’s the reality:
Summer months (May-August):
- Good days: 80-100Ah daily (400-500Wh)
- Overcast: 40-60Ah daily (200-300Wh)
- Rainy: 20-30Ah daily (100-150Wh)
- Average: 60-70Ah daily (300-350Wh)
Spring/Autumn (March-April, September-October):
- Good days: 50-70Ah daily (250-350Wh)
- Overcast: 25-40Ah daily (125-200Wh)
- Rainy: 12-20Ah daily (60-100Wh)
- Average: 35-45Ah daily (175-225Wh)
Winter months (November-February):
- Good days: 25-40Ah daily (125-200Wh)
- Overcast: 10-20Ah daily (50-100Wh)
- Rainy/dark: 5-12Ah daily (25-60Wh)
- Average: 15-25Ah daily (75-125Wh)
The Uncomfortable Truth About Winter
In December-January, my 200W array generates maybe 20Ah daily average. I use 65-70Ah daily. That’s a 45-50Ah deficit.
How I survive winter:
- Drive 2-3x weekly (alternator charging: 20-30Ah per session)
- Reduce consumption (less laptop use, LED lights instead of appliances)
- Occasional hookup every 2-3 weeks
Anyone claiming they live 100% off-grid in UK winter with solar alone is either:
- Lying
- Using significantly more solar than they admit
- Consuming very little power (no laptop, minimal heating, basic setup)
- Supplementing with driving or hookup
I’ve tried. 200W isn’t enough for winter off-grid unless you drastically reduce consumption.
Sun Hours: The Measurement That Matters
Peak sun hours = hours of equivalent full-intensity sun per day.
UK averages (varies by region):
- Summer: 4-5 peak sun hours
- Spring/Autumn: 2-3 peak sun hours
- Winter: 0.5-1.5 peak sun hours
What this means for 100W panel:
Summer: 100W × 5 hours × 0.8 (losses) = 400Wh = 33Ah daily Winter: 100W × 1 hour × 0.8 = 80Wh = 6.7Ah daily
That 5x difference between summer and winter is brutal.
Shading: The Silent Killer
One corner of one panel shaded reduces output dramatically. This is how solar panels work—they’re series circuits. One shaded cell limits the whole panel.
Testing I did: Shaded 10% of panel (top corner). Output dropped to 40% of normal. Not 10%. Forty percent.
This matters on vans:
- Roof vents cast shadows
- Roof rack shadows panels
- Trees shade one side
- You park facing wrong direction
I plan my parking to minimize shading. Sounds obsessive, but shading costs me 30-50Ah daily if I’m not careful.
Panel Angle: Flat Roof Reality
Optimal angle in UK: 30-35° facing south.
Van roof angle: 0° (flat), facing wherever you park.
This costs efficiency. How much?
I tested (mounted panel at different angles, measured output):
- Optimal angle (35°): 100% output baseline
- 15° angle: 95% output
- Flat (0°): 85-90% output in summer, 70-80% in winter
Flat mounting costs 10-30% output depending on season. It’s the price of vehicle mounting.
Some people tilt panels manually. I tried. It’s faff. Rain gets underneath. Wind catches them. I returned to flat mounting and accepted the efficiency loss.
Cloud Cover: The UK Reality
UK is cloudy. Genuinely cloudy. 60% cloud cover average annually.
Panel output in different conditions (vs clear sky baseline):
- Clear sky: 100%
- Thin clouds: 60-80%
- Overcast: 20-40%
- Heavy overcast/rain: 10-20%
Most UK days are thin-clouds to overcast. Expect 40-60% of rated output on “normal” days.
This is why sizing calculations matter. Don’t size for clear-sky output. Size for typical cloudy British output.
Sizing Your Solar Array
Right, the actual maths. This is where most people go wrong.
The Standard Formula (Wrong for UK)
Standard formula: Daily consumption (Ah) ÷ peak sun hours = solar watts needed
Example: 70Ah daily ÷ 4 sun hours = 175W needed
This works in California. It fails in UK because:
- Peak sun hours vary massively by season
- Doesn’t account for cloudy days (60% of year)
- Ignores shading, flat mounting, inefficiency
The Better UK Formula
UK formula: (Daily consumption × 1.4) ÷ (peak sun hours × 0.7) = solar watts needed
The multipliers:
- ×1.4: Accounts for system losses and cloudy days
- ×0.7: Accounts for UK weather, flat mounting, average conditions
Example: (70Ah × 1.4) ÷ (3 hours × 0.7) = 98Ah ÷ 2.1 = 47W per Ah needed
For 70Ah daily: 70 × 47 = 320W of solar panels
My Real-World Validation
My setup:
- 200W solar panels
- 70Ah daily consumption
- Works 9-10 months of year
- Struggles November-February
- Supplemented by alternator 2-3× weekly
If I wanted 100% solar (no alternator backup):
- Summer/Spring/Autumn: 200W is adequate
- Winter: Would need 350-400W
I chose 200W because:
- I drive occasionally (alternator backup)
- Roof space limited
- Winter I reduce consumption
- Cost/benefit of extra 200W didn’t justify
If I was genuinely off-grid (no driving, no hookup, same consumption), I’d need 400W minimum.
Sizing for Different Lifestyles
Weekend warrior (40Ah daily):
- Calculation: 40Ah × 1.4 ÷ 2.1 = 27W per Ah
- Total: 40 × 27 = 108W minimum
- Recommendation: 150-200W (buffer for bad weather)
Full-time with alternator backup (70Ah daily):
- Calculation: 70Ah × 1.4 ÷ 2.1 = 47W per Ah
- Total: 70 × 47 = 329W minimum
- Recommendation: 300-400W (realistic sizing)
Full-time purely off-grid (70Ah daily):
- Calculation: 70Ah × 1.6 ÷ 2.1 = 53W per Ah (higher multiplier for winter)
- Total: 70 × 53 = 371W minimum
- Recommendation: 400-600W (winter coverage)
Heavy user with fridge/inverter (100Ah daily):
- Calculation: 100Ah × 1.6 ÷ 2.1 = 76W per Ah
- Total: 100 × 76 = 760W minimum
- Recommendation: 600-800W (you need serious solar)
Battery Capacity Consideration
Your solar should match battery capacity reasonably.
Rule of thumb: Solar should generate 20-40% of battery capacity daily.
Examples:
- 100Ah battery → 20-40Ah daily → 150-300W solar
- 200Ah battery → 40-80Ah daily → 300-500W solar
- 300Ah battery → 60-120Ah daily → 450-750W solar
Oversizing solar relative to battery is fine (charges faster, better in poor weather). Undersizing means long charge times and potential for not reaching 100% regularly (bad for battery health).
My 200W solar with 200Ah battery is on the lower end (generates 30-50% of capacity daily in good weather). It works because I don’t often discharge below 60-70%, so I’m not trying to replace full capacity daily.
The “Just Max Out My Roof” Approach
Some people say “just fill your roof with solar.”
Problems:
- Expensive (£200-300 per 100W installed)
- Heavy (100W panel weighs 7-8kg)
- Aerodynamics (more roof clutter = worse fuel economy)
- Diminishing returns (600W gives minimal benefit over 400W if you only use 70Ah daily)
I’ve seen 800W installations on vans using 50Ah daily. That’s £1,200+ spent on solar that generates 3-4x what they need. In summer, they hit 100% battery by 11am and waste the rest. In winter, 800W gives them maybe 60-80Ah daily—still not enough for full off-grid.
Better approach: Size appropriately, spend saved money on bigger battery bank (more capacity for cloudy days).
Roof Space Reality Check
Right, let’s talk about the space you actually have.
Measuring Usable Roof Space
Not all roof space is usable:
- Roof vents reduce space
- Roof racks obstruct panels
- Curved roof edges are unusable
- Roof bars create shading
My van (VW Transporter):
- Total roof: 4.9m × 1.9m = 9.3m²
- Roof vents (×2): -0.5m²
- Roof bars: -0.3m²
- Curved edges: -1.2m²
- Usable space: ~7.3m²
Average van usable roof space: 6-8m²
Panel Dimensions Matter
Standard 100W panels: roughly 1.2m × 0.55m = 0.66m²
You can’t just divide roof space by panel area. Panels need spacing for mounting, wiring access, and avoiding shading from roof furniture.
Realistic panel fitment:
Small van (Transit Connect, Caddy):
- Usable roof: 4-5m²
- Realistic solar: 200-300W (2-3× 100W panels)
Medium van (Transporter, Vivaro):
- Usable roof: 6-8m²
- Realistic solar: 300-500W (3-5× 100W panels)
Large van (Sprinter, Ducato):
- Usable roof: 8-10m²
- Realistic solar: 400-700W (4-7× 100W panels)
Panel Layout Planning
I spent hours planning layout before drilling holes. Measure twice, drill once.
Considerations:
- Avoid shading roof vents (shadows are bigger than you think)
- Leave wiring access (you need to reach junction boxes)
- Account for mounting brackets (add 50mm around each panel)
- Plan cable routing (how do cables get inside van?)
- Future access (can you remove panels if needed?)
I drew my roof to scale, cut out paper rectangles for panels, played with arrangements. This prevented a costly layout mistake.
The Series vs Parallel Space Consideration
Series wiring (panels connected positive to negative):
- Fewer cables to roof
- Requires MPPT controller
- All panels should be identical
Parallel wiring (all positives together, all negatives together):
- More cables on roof
- Works with PWM or MPPT
- Can mix panel sizes (not recommended but possible)
Series wiring is cleaner for roof space (fewer cable runs). Parallel needs more cables but is more flexible.
I run series wiring (2× 100W panels in series). One cable run from roof. Clean installation.
Aerodynamics and Height
Every millimeter you raise panels affects:
- Wind noise (panels catch wind)
- Fuel economy (drag increases)
- Clearance (height barriers, car parks)
Mounting height options:
- Flush/low profile: +10-20mm (best for aerodynamics)
- Spoiler mounts: +30-50mm (acceptable)
- Tilting brackets: +80-150mm (worst for aerodynamics)
I run low-profile mounting (+15mm). No noticeable wind noise. Negligible fuel economy impact.
Tilting brackets are terrible for vans—massive wind noise, MPG loss, and you hit height barriers.
Flexible vs Rigid Panels
This is controversial. I have strong opinions backed by actual testing.
Flexible Panel Advantages
Claimed:
- Lightweight (2-3kg vs 7-8kg for rigid)
- Can conform to curved roofs
- Easier to mount (adhesive, no drilling)
- Lower profile (10-15mm thick)
- Less wind resistance
Reality:
- Yes, lighter (genuinely helpful for smaller vans)
- Curved mounting is overstated (most van roofs are flat enough for rigid)
- Adhesive mounting is convenient but risky
- Lower profile is real (barely noticeable on roof)
Flexible Panel Disadvantages
The problems nobody mentions:
- Heat buildup: Flexible panels lack air gap underneath. They run 10-15°C hotter than rigid panels. This costs 5-8% efficiency.
- Durability: Flexible panels use thin film or bendable crystalline cells. They’re fragile. I’ve tested four flexible panels. Two failed within 18 months (delamination, cell cracks).
- Lower efficiency: Flexible panels are typically 15-18% efficient vs 18-22% for rigid. You need more surface area for same power.
- Shorter lifespan: Flexible panels degrade faster (UV degrades the polymer backing). Expect 5-8 years vs 15-25 for rigid.
- Adhesive mounting risk: I’ve had one flexible panel come loose after 8 months. The 3M VHB tape failed in summer heat. Panel flapped in wind at 60mph on motorway. Terrifying.
My Flexible Panel Experience
I installed a 100W flexible panel (Renogy brand, £140) on my first van. Used 3M VHB adhesive as instructed.
6 months: Working fine, output was 10-15% lower than equivalent rigid panel (heat buildup effect).
8 months: Adhesive failed on one corner. Panel lifted in wind. I added more adhesive and screws through grommets.
14 months: Visible delamination starting (edges of panel separating). Output dropped 20%.
18 months: Output down 30%. Panel looks tired (discoloration, more delamination).
I replaced it with a rigid panel. The rigid panel is still perfect after 24 months.
Conclusion: Flexible panels are convenient but not durable enough for permanent van installation. Maybe acceptable for removable/portable setups.
Rigid Panel Advantages
Why I prefer rigid:
- Durability: Aluminum frame, tempered glass, proper junction box. Built to last 20+ years.
- Better heat management: Air gap underneath allows cooling. Panels run 10-15°C cooler than flexible, maintaining efficiency.
- Higher efficiency: 18-22% typical. More power per m².
- Proven longevity: I’ve never seen a rigid panel fail in normal use (excluding physical damage).
- Secure mounting: Bolted through roof with proper sealant. No adhesive to fail.
Rigid Panel Disadvantages
The actual downsides:
- Weight: 100W rigid panel weighs 7-8kg. That’s 30-40kg for 400W array. Matters for smaller vans or those near weight limits.
- Mounting complexity: Requires drilling holes, proper sealing, mounting brackets. More involved installation.
- Height: Adds 40-60mm to roof height (including brackets). Usually not an issue but sometimes matters.
- Cost: Slightly more expensive than flexible (£10-30 per 100W difference).
My Recommendation
Use rigid panels unless:
- You’re severely weight-limited (small van, near GVW)
- You need temporary/removable installation
- Roof curves dramatically (rare on vans)
The durability and efficiency advantages outweigh the small weight penalty.
I’ve installed rigid panels in three vans now. Zero failures. Zero regrets. I won’t use flexible panels again unless circumstances force it.
Budget Planning
Let’s talk actual costs for complete solar installations.
Panel Costs
Per 100W of solar:
Budget panels (generic, polycrystalline):
- Panels: £60-80
- Quality: Hit-or-miss
- Warranty: Questionable
Mid-range (Eco-Worthy, Newpowa, ALLPOWERS):
- Panels: £90-130
- Quality: Generally acceptable
- Warranty: 5-10 years (varies)
Premium (Renogy, Victron, LG):
- Panels: £130-180
- Quality: Excellent
- Warranty: 10-25 years
My choice: Renogy mid-range panels (£220 for 2× 100W). Not cheapest, not premium, but reliable and warrantied.
Complete System Costs
200W solar installation (panels, mounting, wiring, controller):
Budget build:
- 2× 100W panels: £140-160
- Budget MPPT controller: £60-80
- Mounting brackets: £25-40
- Cable & connectors: £30-50
- Sealant & fixings: £20-30
- Total: £275-360
Mid-range build:
- 2× 100W panels (Renogy): £200-240
- Quality MPPT (EPEver): £90-120
- Decent mounting: £40-60
- Quality cable: £40-60
- Proper sealant: £25-40
- Total: £395-520
Premium build:
- 2× 100W panels (Victron): £280-360
- Victron MPPT controller: £140-180
- Quality mounting: £50-70
- Premium cable: £50-70
- Professional sealant: £30-50
- Total: £550-730
My actual spend (200W mid-range): £450 total including everything.
Installation Costs (If Not DIY)
Professional solar installation adds significant cost:
- Small system (200W): £150-300 labor
- Medium system (400W): £250-450 labor
- Large system (600W+): £400-700 labor
Total installed costs:
- 200W installed: £550-800
- 400W installed: £900-1,400
- 600W installed: £1,400-2,100
DIY savings: £200-500 depending on system size.
I DIY’d my installation. It took 8 hours (planning, drilling, mounting, wiring, testing). Saved £300+ in labor.
Cost Per Watt Analysis
Budget setup: £1.40-1.80 per watt installed Mid-range: £2.00-2.60 per watt installed Premium: £2.75-3.65 per watt installed
Is premium worth it? Depends on van lifespan.
If keeping van 3-5 years: mid-range makes sense If keeping van 10+ years: premium pays off in longevity If reselling soon: budget adequate (next owner can upgrade)
Payback Period Reality Check
How long until solar “pays for itself” vs hookup?
Campsite hookup costs: £5-10 per night average UK
Assumptions:
- 200W solar system: £450 installed
- Replaces hookup 100 nights per year
- Hookup savings: £7/night average
Payback: £450 ÷ (100 nights × £7) = 0.64 years (~8 months)
Reality: Most people don’t use hookup 100 nights yearly. More realistic is 30-50 nights.
Realistic payback: £450 ÷ (40 nights × £7) = 1.6 years
Plus you gain flexibility (free camping, wild spots, no campsite dependency).
For me, solar paid for itself in 18 months through avoided hookup costs and enabled free camping. Worth it.
Mounting Methods
How you attach panels matters almost as much as which panels you choose.
Permanent Mounting (Bolted Through Roof)
How it works:
- Drill holes through roof
- Mount brackets with bolts
- Seal with Sikaflex or similar
- Panels bolt to brackets
Advantages:
- Extremely secure
- Weatherproof (if sealed properly)
- Lowest profile option
- Never coming off
Disadvantages:
- Holes in roof (commitment)
- Requires proper sealing skill
- Difficult to reposition
- Not removable
My method:
- Plan layout carefully (measure 3x before drilling)
- Drill pilot holes (2mm)
- Enlarge to bolt size (6-8mm)
- Deburr holes (prevent rust)
- Prime holes with Rustoleum
- Apply Sikaflex 252 to bolt threads and underside of bracket
- Bolt through with backing plates inside
- Excess Sikaflex squeezed out = good seal
- Clean excess
- Let cure 24-48 hours
Critical: Use proper marine sealant (Sikaflex 252, Sikaflex 521). Not bathroom silicone. Not cheap sealant. Marine sealant withstands UV, temperature cycles, vibration.
I’ve driven through torrential rain, car washes, two years of British weather. Zero leaks. Sikaflex 252 is magic.
Adhesive Mounting (3M VHB Tape)
How it works:
- Clean roof thoroughly
- Apply 3M VHB double-sided tape
- Press panel firmly
- Wait 24 hours before driving
Advantages:
- No holes in roof
- Removable (with effort)
- Quick installation
- Good for flexible panels
Disadvantages:
- Adhesive can fail (heat, cold, UV, age)
- Requires perfect surface prep
- Weight limit (~10kg per panel max)
- Risky for rigid panels (heavy)
When adhesive works:
- Flexible panels (lightweight)
- Small rigid panels (50-100W)
- Perfect surface preparation
- Quality VHB tape (not cheap alternatives)
When it fails:
- Large rigid panels (heavy, lots of wind force)
- Poor surface prep
- Extreme temperature cycles
- Low-quality tape
I tried adhesive mounting. It failed. I don’t trust it for anything permanent now.
Spoiler Mounting
How it works:
- Aluminum spoiler-style brackets
- Bolts through roof
- Panels mount on top of spoiler
- Raised ~40-60mm above roof
Advantages:
- Excellent cooling (air gap underneath)
- Cable routing underneath brackets
- Professional appearance
- Easier cable management
Disadvantages:
- More expensive (£60-120 for brackets)
- Higher profile (aerodynamics)
- Slightly more wind noise
- Holes in roof (same as permanent mounting)
Premium option if you want optimal cooling and clean appearance.
I considered spoiler mounts but chose low-profile for aerodynamics. In retrospect, spoiler mounts would’ve been nice (easier cable routing).
Tilting/Adjustable Mounts
How it works:
- Hinged brackets allow panel tilting
- Adjust angle manually
- Supposedly improves output
Why I don’t recommend for vans:
- Wind noise: Tilted panels catch wind badly. Genuinely loud above 50mph.
- Inconvenience: You’re not going to adjust panels daily. Maybe weekly if very motivated. Gains are 10-20% at best.
- Security risk: Hinges and locks are targets for theft or tampering.
- Height issues: Tilted panels add 100-200mm height. Car park barriers become problems.
- Stability: Hinges vibrate, wear, develop play. Panels flap in wind.
Fixed mounting is better for vehicles. Tilting is fine for stationary setups (off-grid cabins).
Cable Entry Methods
Getting cables from roof to interior:
Through roof vent:
- Run cables down vent housing
- No additional holes
- Easiest method
- Limits panel placement (must be near vent)
Through new gland:
- Drill hole for cable gland
- Seal with gland and sealant
- Professional appearance
- Place cables wherever convenient
Through existing holes:
- Use antenna holes, roof rack mounts, etc.
- No new holes needed
- Limited by existing hole locations
I ran cables through a roof vent. No new holes for cables. Clean and simple.
Wiring: Series vs Parallel
This decision affects controller choice, cable sizing, and system performance.
Series Wiring
How it works:
- Connect panel 1 positive to panel 2 negative
- Voltages add: 2× 18V panels = 36V output
- Current stays same: 5A per panel = 5A total
Advantages:
- Thinner cables (lower current)
- One cable run from array to controller
- Requires MPPT controller (but you should use MPPT anyway)
- Better for long cable runs (less voltage drop)
Disadvantages:
- All panels must be identical (voltage/wattage)
- Shading one panel affects all panels
- Requires MPPT controller (can’t use PWM)
- Higher voltage (36V+) requires care with wiring
When to use series:
- Identical panels
- Long cable runs
- MPPT controller (which you should have)
- Want clean installation (fewer cables)
Parallel Wiring
How it works:
- Connect all positives together, all negatives together
- Voltage stays same: 2× 18V panels = 18V output
- Current adds: 2× 5A panels = 10A total
Advantages:
- Shading one panel doesn’t affect others as much
- Can mix panel sizes (not recommended but possible)
- Works with PWM or MPPT
- Lower voltage (safer)
Disadvantages:
- Higher current requires thicker cables
- More cables on roof (positive and negative from each panel)
- Voltage drop worse on long runs
- Messier installation
When to use parallel:
- Mismatched panels (not ideal)
- PWM controller (upgrade to MPPT instead)
- Very short cable runs
- Want redundancy (one panel failing doesn’t kill system)
My Recommendation: Series Wiring
Why:
- Cleaner installation (one cable pair from array)
- Thinner cables (lower current)
- Better with MPPT (which you should use)
- Less voltage drop over distance
Setup: 2× 100W panels in series
- Each panel: 18V, 5.5A
- Series output: 36V, 5.5A
- Runs through 6mm² cable to MPPT controller
Cable voltage drop at 5.5A over 5m: ~0.1V (negligible) Same run in parallel at 11A: ~0.2V (more loss)
Series/Parallel Combinations
For 4+ panels, you can combine series and parallel:
Example: 4× 100W panels
- Wire as 2 series strings of 2 panels each
- Each string: 36V, 5.5A
- Connect strings in parallel: 36V, 11A total
This balances voltage/current and provides some redundancy.
I’d only bother with series/parallel on 400W+ systems. Below that, simple series or parallel is fine.
Cable Sizing for Solar
For series wiring (lower current):
- Up to 200W: 4mm² cable
- 200-400W: 6mm² cable
- 400W+: 10mm² cable
For parallel wiring (higher current):
- Up to 200W: 6mm² cable
- 200-400W: 10mm² cable
- 400W+: 16mm² cable
I use 6mm² cable for my 200W series array. Overkill, but voltage drop is minimal and it’s future-proof.
Common Mistakes
I’ve made most of these. Learn from my pain.
Mistake 1: Oversizing Solar Without Need
What I did: Installed 400W on first van. Used 60Ah daily. Solar generated 100Ah+ in summer.
Why it was daft: Spent £800 on solar. Only needed £400 worth. Wasted £400 that could’ve bought better battery or other components.
Lesson: Size for actual usage, not maximum roof space.
Mistake 2: Buying Flexible Panels for Permanent Installation
What I did: Installed 100W flexible panel with adhesive. Thought it’d be convenient.
What happened: Failed after 18 months (delamination, adhesive failure). Replaced with rigid panel that’s still perfect 24 months later.
Lesson: Flexible panels are for temporary/portable use only. Rigid for permanent installations.
Mistake 3: Cheap Cable
What I did: Used cheap 2.5mm² cable from auto shop. Saved £15.
What happened: Voltage drop reduced panel output by 8%. Lost 0.6V over 4m run. That’s 8% less power daily.
Lesson: Use proper sized solar cable. The £15 savings cost me more in lost power over time.
Mistake 4: No Cable Glands
What I did: Ran cables through rubber grommet. Seemed fine.
What happened: UV degraded rubber. After 10 months, rubber perished. Gap around cable. Small leak during heavy rain.
Lesson: Use proper cable glands (£5-8 each). They’re UV-resistant and actually seal.
Mistake 5: Poor Panel Placement
What I did: Mounted panels anywhere they fit, didn’t consider shading from roof vent.
What happened: Shadow from vent hit panel corner for 4 hours daily in winter (low sun angle). Lost 30% output during those hours.
Lesson: Plan placement carefully. Model shading at different sun angles and seasons.
Mistake 6: Using Bathroom Silicone
What I did: Sealed bolt holes with bathroom silicone (clear, £3).
What happened: Silicone degraded in UV and temperature cycles. After 14 months, seal failed. Small leak.
Lesson: Use marine sealant (Sikaflex 252/521). It’s £15 vs £3, but it actually lasts.
Mistake 7: Not Testing Before Final Installation
What I did: Mounted panels, wired everything, sealed it all. Then tested.
What happened: One panel connection was faulty. Had to partially unmount to fix.
Lesson: Test everything before final sealing. Connect panels, test output, verify connections, THEN seal permanently.
Mistake 8: Ignoring Weight
What I did: Installed 400W (4× 100W rigid panels) without checking weight implications.
What happened: Added 30kg to roof. Van felt top-heavy in crosswinds. Was 50kg over payload limit.
Lesson: Calculate weight. Rigid panels + mounts add 8-10kg per 100W. Make sure you’re within GVW.
Mistake 9: Parallel Wiring With Long Cable Runs
What I did: Ran parallel wiring with 2.5mm² cable over 6m run.
What happened: Voltage drop at 10A was 0.8V. Lost significant power. Controller couldn’t maintain proper charging.
Lesson: Series wiring for long runs, or use much thicker cable for parallel.
Mistake 10: Trusting Panel Ratings
What I did: Calculated system based on rated panel output (100W).
What happened: Panels produced 75-85W in real UK conditions. System underperformed expectations.
Lesson: Derate panels by 20-25% for UK reality. “100W” panel = 75-80W actual in typical conditions.
Specific Recommendations
Based on two years of testing and four van installations, here’s what I’d actually buy.
Best Budget Setup (Under £350)
200W system for weekend/casual use:
- Panels: 2× 100W Eco-Worthy monocrystalline (£150-180)
- Controller: EPEver Tracer 2210AN MPPT (£60-80)
- Mounting: Generic aluminum brackets (£30-40)
- Cable: 6mm² solar cable (£25-35)
- Sealant: Sikaflex 252 (£15-20)
- Total: £280-355
This works. It’s not premium, but it’s reliable enough for weekend use or light full-time living with alternator backup.
I’d buy this if I was on a tight budget and needed functional solar.
Best Mid-Range Setup (£400-600)
300W system for full-time living with backup:
- Panels: 3× 100W Renogy monocrystalline (£300-360)
- Controller: EPEver Tracer 4210AN MPPT with display (£110-140)
- Mounting: Quality brackets or spoilers (£60-80)
- Cable: 6mm² quality solar cable (£40-60)
- Sealant: Sikaflex 252 (£20)
- Total: £530-660
This is the sweet spot. Quality components that last, enough power for comfortable full-time living, not absurdly expensive.
This is what I’d build now if starting over.
Best Premium Setup (£700-1000)
400W system for serious off-grid:
- Panels: 4× 100W Victron monocrystalline (£480-580)
- Controller: Victron SmartSolar 100/30 MPPT (£140-180)
- Mounting: Premium spoiler brackets (£100-140)
- Cable: Premium 10mm² solar cable (£60-80)
- Sealant: Sikaflex 521UV (£25-35)
- Total: £805-1,015
Zero compromises. Will last 15-20 years. Victron quality throughout. Generates enough for genuine off-grid living 9-10 months yearly in UK.
I’d only build this if full-time off-grid with no alternator backup and high power usage.
Specific Panel Recommendations
Budget (£70-100 per 100W):
- Eco-Worthy 100W monocrystalline
- Newpowa 100W monocrystalline
- ALLPOWERS 100W (acceptable but inconsistent)
Mid-Range (£100-150 per 100W):
- Renogy 100W monocrystalline (my choice)
- Dokio 100W monocrystalline
- Mighty Max 100W monocrystalline
Premium (£150+ per 100W):
- Victron Solar Panels
- LG NeON panels (if you can find them)
- SunPower panels (rarely available for vans)
Controller Recommendations
Budget PWM (not recommended):
- Renogy Wanderer 30A (£30) – if you must use PWM
Budget MPPT:
- EPEVER Tracer 2210AN (£70) – genuinely decent
- Renogy Rover 20A (£85) – slightly better
Mid-Range MPPT:
- EPEver Tracer 4210AN (£110) – excellent value
- Renogy Rover 40A (£130) – good with display
Premium MPPT:
- Victron SmartSolar 100/30 (£150) – the one I’d buy
- Victron SmartSolar 150/35 (£230) – overkill for most vans
Final Thoughts
Two years ago I thought solar sizing was simple: fill the roof, generate maximum power. I spent £800 on 400W of solar for a van using 60Ah daily. That’s like buying a 300L fridge for a single person—massive overkill.
My second van has 200W of solar. It cost £450. It generates 80% of my power needs. The other 20% comes from driving 2-3× weekly for 30-60 minutes. This balance works perfectly and saved me £350 on unnecessary solar.
Here’s what I’ve learned: solar sizing isn’t about maximizing watts. It’s about understanding your actual consumption, accepting UK weather reality, and making peace with supplemental charging (alternator or occasional hookup).
The solar industry wants you to believe you need 600-800W for “true off-grid living.” That’s bollocks for most people. 300-400W plus a modest battery bank and occasional alternator charging covers 95% of realistic van living scenarios in UK.
Flexible panels look convenient but fail faster than rigid panels. I’ve replaced flexible panels twice. My rigid panels from 2022 are still perfect. The convenience isn’t worth the durability compromise.
MPPT controllers aren’t negotiable anymore. Yes, they’re 2-3× more expensive than PWM. Yes, they’re worth it. The efficiency gain pays back the premium within 12-18 months through increased harvest.
And please, stop trusting panel ratings as gospel. A “100W” panel in UK conditions generates 70-85W average. Size your system for actual UK weather (cloudy, flat mounting, less-than-optimal angles), not California sunshine.
The best solar setup isn’t the biggest. It’s the one sized correctly for your actual usage, installed properly, and maintained realistically. My 200W system cost £450 and meets 90% of my needs. That’s better than spending £1,200 on 600W that generates 4× what I use.
Now go measure your actual power consumption instead of guessing, and buy solar panels based on reality, not Instagram-influenced fantasies of off-grid perfection.
I’ve installed solar on four vans now. The first installation took me 11 hours, involved three trips to the hardware shop for parts I’d…
I’ve installed complete electrical systems in four vans now. The first installation took me four weekends, involved two rewiring sessions when I realized I’d cocked up the layout, and resulted in a blown fuse.
The most recent installation took me three days start to finish with zero mistakes and perfect cable management. The difference? Understanding the installation sequence, having every component and tool ready before starting, and actually drawing a proper wiring diagram instead of “figuring it out as I go.”
Here’s what nobody tells you: electrical installation isn’t difficult—it’s unforgiving. Make a mistake in planning and you can fix it. Make a mistake in wiring and you might not discover it until something fails, catches fire, or leaves you stranded with no power. The key is methodical planning, proper testing at every stage, and never assuming a connection is good until you’ve verified it.
I’ve made every installation mistake: wrong cable sizes, forgotten fuses, reversed polarity, poor crimping, inadequate testing, crossed circuits. This guide contains everything I wish someone had told me before my first installation.
This is a complete, step-by-step guide to installing both 12V and 240V electrical systems in campervans: the planning phase everyone skips, the installation sequence that prevents rework, the testing procedures that catch problems early, and the mistakes that cost me days of work so they don’t cost you anything.
Table of Contents
- Pre-Installation Planning
- Tools and Materials
- Battery Installation
- Main Distribution System
- 12V Circuit Installation
- DC-DC Charger Installation
- Inverter Installation
- 240V System Installation
- System Integration
- Testing and Commissioning
- Cable Management
- Troubleshooting
Pre-Installation Planning
Don’t touch a wire until you’ve completed this phase. I’m serious.
Step 1: Create a Wiring Diagram
Don’t skip this. Every time I’ve skipped diagrams, I’ve regretted it.
What to draw:
- Power source (battery)
- Protection (main fuse)
- Distribution (bus bar)
- Every circuit:
- Lights (with switch)
- Fridge (with fuse)
- Water pump (with switch and fuse)
- USB outlets (with fuse)
- Heater (with switch and fuse)
- Inverter (with switch and fuse)
- Charging sources:
- Solar controller
- DC-DC charger
- Mains charger (if hookup)
- Monitoring (battery shunt)
Tools for diagrams:
- Paper and pencil (simple, effective)
- draw.io (free online)
- Circuit design software (overkill but pretty)
My method: Paper diagram with colored pencils
- Red = positive 12V
- Black = negative/ground
- Blue = 230V live
- Green/yellow = earth
- Different line thickness for different cable sizes
Step 2: Physical Component Layout
Mark on van floor plan:
- Battery location (under seat, under bed, etc.)
- Distribution point (bus bar location)
- Each device location:
- Lights (ceiling, reading lights)
- Fridge (kitchen area)
- Water pump (near tank)
- USB outlets (bedside, kitchen)
- Switches (control panel)
- Charging equipment:
- Solar controller (near battery)
- DC-DC charger (near battery)
- Inverter (near battery)
- 240V components (if installing):
- Hookup inlet (exterior wall)
- RCD/consumer unit (accessible location)
- 230V sockets (kitchen, maybe bedside)
Measure distances for cable routing:
- Battery to bus bar
- Bus bar to each device
- Add 20% for routing (cables don’t run straight)
Step 3: Calculate Cable Sizes
For each circuit, calculate:
- Maximum current
- Cable length (actual route, not straight line)
- Acceptable voltage drop (3% maximum)
- Required cable size (from voltage drop calculation)
Example: LED lighting circuit
- Current: 5A maximum
- Length: 4m from bus bar to lights
- Voltage drop formula: (5A × 4m × 2 × 8.0mΩ/m) ÷ 1000 = 0.32V
- Percentage: 0.32V ÷ 12V = 2.7%
- Cable: 2.5mm² is adequate
Do this for every circuit before buying cable.
Step 4: Create Shopping List
From your diagram and calculations:
Cables (buy 10% extra):
- 2.5mm²: ___m
- 4mm²: ___m
- 6mm²: ___m
- 16mm²: ___m (battery connections)
- 25mm²: ___m (inverter, if needed)
Terminals and connectors:
- Ring terminals (various sizes for cable gauges)
- Blade terminals
- Butt connectors
- Heat shrink tubing (various diameters)
Fusing:
- ANL fuse + holder (main battery)
- Blade fuses + holders (each circuit)
- Spare fuses (always have spares)
Distribution:
- Bus bars (positive and negative)
- Mounting hardware
- Cable ties
Switches:
- Rocker switches (for each switched circuit)
- Mounting panel or enclosure
Protection:
- RCD (if 240V system)
- Circuit breakers or fuse holders
Connectors:
- Anderson connectors (optional, for removable devices)
- MC4 connectors (solar)
- Appropriate 230V connectors
Step 5: Plan Installation Sequence
Correct order prevents rework:
- Install battery (secure, fused)
- Install bus bar system (distribution point)
- Run main power cables (battery to bus bar)
- Install DC-DC charger (connects to battery)
- Install solar controller (connects to battery)
- Run 12V circuit cables (bus bar to devices)
- Install inverter (connects to battery)
- Install 240V system (if needed)
- Connect all devices
- Test each circuit individually
- Test complete system
- Cable management (final tidy)
Why this order?
- Battery first (power source for testing)
- Distribution second (connection point for everything)
- Charging before loads (can test as you go)
- Devices last (easier to test circuits before connecting loads)
- Cable management last (don’t tidy until everything works)
Tools and Materials
Here’s what you actually need. Having everything ready saves hours.
Essential Tools
Hand tools:
- Wire strippers (good quality, £15-30)
- Crimping tool (hydraulic is best, £30-80)
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat, various sizes)
- Spanners (8mm-13mm typical)
- Socket set (10mm-13mm)
- Cable cutters (for thick cables)
- Knife or cable stripper
Power tools:
- Cordless drill (12V minimum, 18V better)
- Drill bits (2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 6mm, 8mm)
- Hole saw set (for cable entry, switch mounting)
- Step drill bit (optional but excellent for clean holes)
Testing equipment:
- Multimeter (essential, £20-100)
- DC clamp meter (very useful, £40-80)
- Test light (quick continuity checks)
- Cable tracer (optional, useful for finding cables)
Safety:
- Safety glasses
- Work gloves
- Fire extinguisher (nearby)
- First aid kit
My toolkit (what I actually use):
- Engineer PA-09 crimping tool (£35)
- Klein wire strippers (£20)
- DeWalt drill (already owned)
- Fluke 117 multimeter (£150, cheaper ones work fine)
- Standard socket set
- Step drill bit (£18)
Materials Checklist
Cables (automotive grade, stranded):
- Red cable (positive): 2.5mm², 4mm², 6mm², 16mm²
- Black cable (negative): matching sizes
- Yellow/green (earth, for 230V): 2.5mm²
Terminals:
- Ring terminals: M6, M8, M10 (various cable sizes)
- Blade terminals: male and female
- Butt connectors (various sizes)
- Heat shrink: 3mm, 5mm, 8mm, 12mm, 20mm
Fusing:
- ANL fuse holder + 80-125A fuse (main battery)
- Blade fuse holders (one per circuit)
- Assorted blade fuses: 5A, 10A, 15A, 20A, 30A
- MIDI fuse holder + fuse (inverter, if needed)
Distribution:
- 12-way positive bus bar with fuse holders
- Negative bus bar (6-12 way)
- Earth bus bar (if 230V system)
- Mounting screws and standoffs
Switches and controls:
- Rocker switches: 10A or 20A rated
- Switch panel or enclosure
- LED indicators (optional)
Cable management:
- Cable ties (UV resistant, various sizes)
- Split loom conduit (10mm, 15mm, 20mm)
- Cable clips and saddles
- Grommets (for panel pass-throughs)
- Adhesive cable tie mounts
Protection:
- RCD (30mA, if 240V)
- Consumer unit (2-4 way, if 230V)
- Rubber grommets (various sizes)
- Conduit (for 230V cables)
Sealant and adhesives:
- Sikaflex or similar (cable entries through walls)
- Double-sided tape (temporary holding)
- Cable clamp adhesive mounts
Labels:
- Cable labels or label maker
- Permanent marker
- Coloured tape (circuit identification)
Estimated Costs
Basic 12V system (no 230V):
- Cables and terminals: £80-120
- Fusing and distribution: £60-90
- Switches and panel: £40-60
- Cable management: £30-50
- Tools (if buying): £100-200
- Total materials: £210-320
- Total with tools: £310-520
Complete 12V + 240V system:
- Above plus:
- 240V cables and components: £60-90
- RCD and consumer unit: £50-80
- 230V sockets and switches: £30-50
- Additional protection: £40-60
- Total materials: £390-600
- Total with tools: £490-800
My actual spend (medium system, had some tools):
- Materials: £380
- New tools: £55 (crimping tool, step bit)
- Total: £435
Battery Installation
First component in. Get this right—everything else depends on it.
Step 1: Choose Location
Requirements:
- Low in van (center of gravity)
- Accessible (for connections and maintenance)
- Secure (won’t move in accident)
- Ventilated (lead-acid) or enclosed (lithium okay)
- Protected from damage
Common locations:
- Under seating (my choice)
- Under bed platform
- In front passenger footwell (single-seat vans)
- Dedicated battery box in storage area
My location: Under passenger seat, secured to floor with L-brackets.
Step 2: Build Battery Box (If Needed)
For lead-acid batteries (hydrogen gas):
- Sealed box with vent to outside
- Sturdy construction (battery is heavy)
- Acid-resistant material (plastic, coated wood)
- Secure lid with access for connections
For lithium batteries:
- Protection from physical damage
- Doesn’t need venting
- Can be more compact
- Still needs secure mounting
My setup (lithium):
- No box (under seat is protected)
- Secured with L-brackets bolted to floor
- Strap over top (additional security)
- Easy access to terminals
Step 3: Secure Battery
Critical: Battery must not move in accident. A 25kg battery becoming a projectile in a crash is lethal.
Methods:
L-bracket mount:
- Drill floor (through to chassis if possible)
- Bolt L-brackets to floor
- Battery sits between brackets
- Strap over top
Ratchet strap:
- Anchor points on either side
- Ratchet strap over battery
- Tighten securely
- Check regularly (can loosen over time)
Battery box:
- Box bolted to floor
- Battery inside box
- Lid secured
- Additional strap recommended
My installation:
- Two L-brackets, one each side of battery
- Bolted through floor to chassis members
- Ratchet strap over top (belt and braces)
- Checked tightness every 3 months
Step 4: Install Main Fuse
Critical safety: Fuse on positive terminal, within 300mm of battery.
Process:
- Select fuse rating:
- Calculate maximum current (all loads + charging)
- My system: Max 80A from all sources
- Fuse rating: 100A ANL (125% of maximum)
- Connect fuse holder to battery:
- ANL fuse holder with ring terminals
- Red cable: 16-25mm² (short run, high current)
- Ring terminal sized for battery post (M8 or M10 typical)
- Crimp terminal onto cable
- Connect to battery positive
- Verify polarity (before going further):
- Battery positive = red cable
- Battery negative = black cable
- Double-check with multimeter
- Insert fuse (do this last, after everything else is wired):
- Keeps system dead during installation
- Insert fuse when ready to power up
Step 5: Main Negative Connection
Process:
- Cable from battery negative to negative bus bar
- Same size as positive (16-25mm²)
- Black cable
- Ring terminal at battery end
- Ring or cable lug at bus bar end
- No fuse on negative (common mistake):
- Negative is ground/return path
- Fusing negative would prevent fuses from working correctly
- Only positive gets fused
- Short as practical:
- Minimize cable length
- Reduce voltage drop
- My run: 0.8m from battery to bus bar
Step 6: Battery Shunt Installation (If Monitoring)
For battery monitors (Victron SmartShunt, Renogy monitor):
Critical rule: ALL negative current must flow through shunt
Installation:
- Disconnect battery negative from bus bar (if already connected)
- Install shunt on battery negative terminal:
- Shunt battery side to battery negative post
- Shunt load side to negative bus bar
- Connect shunt signal cable:
- Small wire from shunt to monitor/controller
- Route carefully (don’t damage)
- Power wire for monitor:
- Thin positive wire from battery to shunt/monitor
- Through small fuse (1-2A)
Result: All negative current flows Battery → Shunt → Bus Bar → Devices → Back to Bus Bar → Shunt → Battery
The shunt measures everything.
My installation: Victron SmartShunt
- Mounted directly on battery negative post
- All negatives route through it
- Signal cable to Bluetooth module
- Power from battery positive (1A fuse)
Main Distribution System
The central hub where everything connects.
Step 1: Choose Bus Bar Location
Considerations:
- Near battery (short main cable runs)
- Accessible (for adding circuits)
- Protected (behind panel or in cabinet)
- Space for future expansion
My location: Electrical cabinet on rear wall, 1m from battery.
Step 2: Mount Bus Bars
You need two:
- Positive bus bar (fused)
- Negative bus bar (unfused)
- Earth bus bar (if 240V system)
Mounting:
- Cut backing board (plywood or similar):
- Size to fit bus bars with space around
- My board: 400mm × 300mm
- Mount bus bars to board:
- Positive bar: Blade fuse holders (6-12 positions)
- Negative bar: Screw terminals (6-12 positions)
- Use standoffs (prevent shorts to board)
- Mount board to van:
- Screw to wall or floor
- Ensure secure (will have cable tension)
My setup:
- 12-position positive bus with blade fuse holders
- 10-position negative bus
- 6-position earth bus (for 230V)
- All mounted on plywood board
- Board screwed to rear wall cabinet
Step 3: Main Power Cables
From battery to bus bar:
Positive cable:
- From battery main fuse to positive bus bar:
- Cable size: 16-25mm² (depends on max current)
- My system: 16mm² (adequate for 100A)
- Length: 1m in my van
- Crimp ring terminal at bus bar end:
- Large terminal (M8 or M10)
- Proper crimping
- Heat shrink over connection
- Connect to bus bar input:
- Usually a large bolt/stud
- Tighten securely
- Verify connection
Negative cable:
- From battery (through shunt if monitoring) to negative bus bar:
- Same size as positive (16mm² in my case)
- Black cable
- Ring terminals both ends
- Connect to bus bar:
- Main input terminal
- Tighten securely
Testing before proceeding:
- DON’T insert main fuse yet
- Check for shorts:
- Multimeter in continuity mode
- Test positive bus to negative bus
- Should NOT have continuity (open circuit)
- If continuity exists, find and fix short
- Only when verified no short:
- Insert main fuse
- System is now live
- Verify voltage at bus bars (12.4-13.2V typical)
12V Circuit Installation
Now we wire each circuit from bus bar to device.
Step 1: Plan Circuit Routing
For each circuit, plan:
- Cable route from bus bar to device
- Switch location (if switched circuit)
- Cable size (from earlier calculations)
- Fuse rating (load current × 1.25)
Example: LED lighting circuit
- Route: Bus bar → control panel (switch) → ceiling → lights
- Switch: Panel-mounted rocker switch
- Cable: 2.5mm² (5A load)
- Fuse: 10A (5A × 1.25 = 6.25A, round to 10A)
Step 2: Run Cables
General process for each circuit:
- Measure cable length:
- Actual route (not straight line)
- Add 10% for connections and mistakes
- Cut positive and negative cables:
- Same length
- Same size
- Mark each (label which circuit)
- Route cables together:
- Keep positive and negative together
- Use cable loom or ties
- Secure every 30-50cm
- Protect through metal panels (grommets)
- Leave slack:
- 10-15cm extra at each end
- Allows for connection and future service
- Don’t pull guitar-string tight
Step 3: Install Switches (Switched Circuits)
For circuits with switches:
Switch wiring:
- Positive from bus bar → switch → device
- Negative from bus bar → device (direct)
- Switch only breaks positive (standard practice)
Installation:
- Mount switch panel:
- Accessible location
- Secure mounting
- Appropriate size holes
- Wire switch:
- Positive IN from bus bar
- Positive OUT to device
- Use blade terminals on switch tabs
- Or solder and heat shrink (more reliable)
- Test switch:
- Continuity test
- Should conduct when ON
- Open circuit when OFF
My control panel:
- 8 rocker switches (lights, pump, heater, etc.)
- Panel-mounted in overhead cabinet
- All switches break positive
- Each labeled clearly
Step 4: Connect Circuits to Bus Bar
Positive connections:
- Strip cable (10-12mm)
- Crimp ring terminal:
- Size appropriate for cable
- Proper crimping (critical)
- Heat shrink over connection
- Insert fuse in bus bar position:
- Correct rating for circuit
- Blade fuse in fuse holder
- Connect terminal under fuse holder screw:
- Tighten securely
- Verify terminal seated properly
Negative connections:
- Strip cable (10-12mm)
- Crimp ring terminal or use bare wire:
- Ring terminal more reliable
- Bare wire acceptable for screw terminals
- Connect to negative bus bar:
- Under screw terminal
- Tighten securely
Testing each circuit:
Before connecting device:
- Check fuse continuity:
- Should have continuity through fuse
- Voltage at circuit cable should match bus bar
- Check for shorts:
- Measure resistance positive to negative
- Should be high (infinite on most meters)
- Low resistance = short (find and fix)
- Switch test (if switched):
- Voltage should appear/disappear with switch
Step 5: Connect Devices
Only after circuit testing:
Lights:
- Identify polarity:
- LED strips: Usually marked positive/negative
- Individual LEDs: Red = positive, black = negative
- Connect wires:
- Solder preferred (most reliable)
- Or use connector blocks
- Heat shrink over connections
- Test:
- Switch on
- Light should illuminate
- Check brightness (dim = voltage drop or wrong voltage)
Water pump:
- Connect positive to switch output
- Connect negative to negative bus
- Test:
- Press switch
- Pump should run
- Check current draw (should match rating)
USB outlets:
- Connect positive to fused circuit
- Connect negative
- Test with phone:
- Should charge normally
- Check voltage at outlet (should be 5V ±0.25V)
Fridge:
- Usually direct connection (not switched):
- Positive to fused bus bar position
- Negative to bus bar
- Fridge often has internal switch
- Large fuse (fridge draws significant current):
- 10-15A typical for compressor fridge
- Thick cable (4-6mm²):
- Fridges draw 5-8A when running
- Prevent voltage drop
My fridge installation:
- Direct to bus bar (20A fused circuit)
- 4mm² cable, 3m run
- Voltage drop: 0.36V (acceptable)
- Fridge has internal thermostat (controls on/off)
Diesel heater:
- Check manufacturer specs:
- Most draw 10-25W (1-2A)
- Some draw more on startup
- Fused circuit (10A typical)
- Switched or direct:
- Mine is switched (heater also has controller)
- Earth/ground (some heaters require):
- Connect to van chassis
- Manufacturer instructions
Step 6: Label Everything
Don’t skip this:
At bus bar:
- Label each circuit position
- “Lights Main”, “Fridge”, “Water Pump”, etc.
At devices:
- Label cable at device end
- Future troubleshooting
At switches:
- Label what each switch controls
My method: Label maker plus colored heat shrink
- Red = lights
- Blue = pumps/water
- Green = heating
- Yellow = USB/charging
- White = misc
DC-DC Charger Installation
Connects starter battery to leisure battery for charging while driving.
Step 1: Location
Requirements:
- Near leisure battery (short cable runs)
- Accessible (for monitoring LED indicators)
- Ventilated (generates heat)
- Protected from moisture
My location: Mounted on wall next to leisure battery, 0.5m away.
Step 2: Cable Sizing
From starter battery to DC-DC input:
- Long run (5-8m typical)
- High current (30-60A)
- Thick cable needed (16-35mm²)
Example: 30A DC-DC, 6m run from starter battery
- Voltage drop target: <3%
- Required: 25mm² cable minimum
- I used: 25mm² (just adequate)
From DC-DC output to leisure battery:
- Short run (0.5-1m)
- Same current as input
- Same cable size (16-25mm²)
Step 3: Starter Battery Connection
Safety first: Disconnect starter battery negative before working.
Process:
- Identify starter battery positive:
- Under bonnet
- Usually near engine
- Install fuse holder:
- Within 300mm of starter battery positive
- Fuse rating: DC-DC current × 1.25
- Example: 30A charger = 40A fuse
- Connect cable:
- Ring terminal to battery post
- Through fuse holder
- Route carefully (avoid heat, moving parts)
- Route through bulkhead:
- Find existing grommet/hole
- Or drill new hole (seal with grommet and sealant)
- Protect cable with additional sleeve
- Run to DC-DC charger location:
- Secure every 30-50cm
- Avoid heat sources
- Protect from chafing
Negative from starter battery:
- Connect to chassis/earth point near starter battery
- Or run separate negative (better but more cable)
- I used chassis ground (adequate)
Step 4: Leisure Battery Connection
DC-DC output to leisure battery:
- Positive output from DC-DC:
- To leisure battery positive
- Through fuse (30-60A depending on charger)
- Short cable run (0.5-1m)
- Negative output from DC-DC:
- To leisure battery negative
- Through shunt (if battery monitoring)
- Or direct to battery
- Proper crimping:
- Thick cable needs good crimps
- Use hydraulic crimping tool if possible
- Heat shrink over connections
Step 5: DC-DC Configuration
Check manufacturer instructions:
Some DC-DC chargers require:
- Configuration switches (battery type)
- DIP switches (voltage settings)
- Programming (via app or buttons)
My Renogy 30A DC-DC:
- DIP switches for battery type (set to lithium)
- No programming needed
- Automatic operation when engine running
Step 6: Testing
Before first start:
- Check all connections tight
- Verify polarity:
- Input positive to starter positive
- Output positive to leisure positive
- Negatives to negatives/ground
- Start engine:
- DC-DC should activate (LED indicator)
- Multimeter on leisure battery should show rising voltage
- Should see 14.2-14.6V (charging voltage)
- Check current flow:
- Clamp meter on output cable
- Should see charging current (20-40A typical)
- Reduces as battery charges
My testing results:
- Engine start: DC-DC activated (green LED)
- Leisure battery: 12.8V → 14.4V (charging)
- Current: Started at 28A, reduced to 15A after 30 mins
- Success
Inverter Installation
Converts 12V DC to 230V AC for household devices.
Step 1: Location Selection
Requirements:
- Very close to battery (massive current draw)
- Ventilated (generates heat)
- Accessible (for on/off switch)
- Space for cable routing
My location: Under passenger seat next to battery, 0.5m away.
Step 2: Cable Sizing (Critical)
Inverter draws huge current:
Example: 1000W inverter
- Power: 1000W
- Voltage: 12V
- Efficiency: 90%
- Current: 1000W ÷ 12V ÷ 0.9 = 93A
That’s massive current.
Cable sizing:
- 1000W inverter, 0.5m cable run
- 93A current
- Need: 25mm² minimum (I used 35mm² for safety)
If cable is too thin:
- Overheats (fire risk)
- Voltage drop (inverter shuts down)
- Efficiency loss
Step 3: Fusing
Fuse rating: Inverter max current × 1.25
Example: 1000W inverter (93A typical, 120A peak)
- Fuse: 125-150A
- I used: 125A MIDI fuse
Fuse location: Within 300mm of battery positive
Step 4: Physical Installation
Mounting inverter:
- Secure mounting:
- Bolted to floor or wall
- Won’t vibrate loose
- Adequate ventilation (100mm clear space around)
- Cable connections:
- Positive: Battery positive → fuse → inverter
- Negative: Battery negative → inverter
- Use large ring terminals (M8 or M10)
- Hydraulic crimping essential (thick cables)
- Switch (recommended):
- High-current switch on positive
- Or remote on/off (many inverters have this)
- Prevents parasitic drain when not in use
My installation:
- Inverter bolted to floor under seat
- 35mm² cables (positive and negative)
- 125A fuse, 200mm from battery
- Remote on/off switch on control panel
Step 5: 230V Output
From inverter 230V output:
If simple setup (one or two devices):
- UK socket connected directly to inverter output
- Simple but limited
If multiple devices:
- Install small consumer unit
- Distribute to multiple sockets
- More complex but flexible
My setup: Direct connection
- Single 230V socket near battery
- Extension lead when needed
- Simple, adequate for my usage
Step 6: Testing
Safety first: 230V can kill.
Testing procedure:
- Inverter OFF, check wiring:
- Polarity correct (positive to positive)
- All connections tight
- No bare wire exposed
- Turn inverter ON:
- Should power up (LED or display)
- May beep or make noise (normal)
- Check output voltage:
- Multimeter on AC setting
- Should read 230V ±10V
- My inverter: 232V (perfect)
- Test with load:
- Plug in laptop charger or similar
- Should work normally
- Check inverter isn’t overheating
- Check current draw from battery:
- Clamp meter on 12V input cable
- 100W load should draw ~10A from battery
- Matches expected current
Warning signs:
- Voltage way off (210V or 250V = problem)
- Excessive heat (inverter too small or poor ventilation)
- Strange noises (could indicate fault)
- Shutdowns (voltage drop or overload)
240V System Installation
For hookup and inverter-powered 230V circuits. This is dangerous voltage.
Safety Warning
230V can kill you. If you’re not confident, hire a qualified electrician.
Safety rules:
- Never work on live 230V
- Always disconnect before working
- Use RCD protection (essential)
- Test cables are dead before touching
- Follow regulations (BS 7671 in UK)
Step 1: Hookup Inlet Installation
If adding campsite hookup capability:
Location:
- Exterior wall (access from outside)
- Low on vehicle (near ground)
- Protected from road spray
- Accessible when parked
Installation:
- Cut hole in exterior wall:
- Size for inlet (usually 60-80mm)
- Use hole saw
- Deburr edges
- Mount hookup inlet:
- Gasket between inlet and wall
- Secure with screws
- Weatherproof
- Wire connections (inside van):
- Live (brown) to RCD live
- Neutral (blue) to RCD neutral
- Earth (green/yellow) to earth bus bar
My installation:
- Inlet on rear corner (low)
- 3-pin 16A inlet (standard campsite)
- Gasket sealed, no leaks in 2 years
Step 2: RCD Installation
RCD (Residual Current Device) = lifesaver.
What it does: Trips in milliseconds if current leakage detected (e.g., you touch live wire).
Specification:
- 30mA trip current (for human protection)
- Rated for system current (16A typical for vans)
Installation:
- Mount RCD:
- Accessible location
- Din rail or panel mount
- First component after hookup inlet
- Wire hookup inlet to RCD input:
- Live to RCD live in
- Neutral to RCD neutral in
- Earth to earth bus (not through RCD)
- Test RCD:
- Test button should trip RCD
- Should reset after testing
- If doesn’t trip, RCD is faulty (replace)
Step 3: Consumer Unit Installation
Distributes 230V to multiple circuits:
Components:
- MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers) for each circuit
- Or fuse holders
- Bus bars for distribution
Wiring:
- RCD output to consumer unit input
- Each circuit:
- Live through MCB (6A or 10A typical)
- Neutral to neutral bus bar
- Earth to earth bus bar
- Circuits:
- Kitchen socket: 10A MCB
- Bedside socket: 6A MCB
- Inverter feed: 10A MCB
- Mains battery charger: 6A MCB
My system:
- 4-way consumer unit
- Each socket on separate MCB
- Allows isolation of individual circuits
Step 4: 230V Socket Installation
Standard UK 3-pin sockets:
Location planning:
- Kitchen (for blender, kettle, etc.)
- Bedside (for phone charging, laptop)
- Workstation (if remote work setup)
Installation:
- Mount socket back box:
- Secure to wall
- Flush mount or surface mount
- Run cable from consumer unit:
- 2.5mm² three-core cable (live, neutral, earth)
- Protect in conduit
- Secure every 30cm
- Wire socket:
- Live (brown) to L terminal
- Neutral (blue) to N terminal
- Earth (green/yellow) to E terminal
- Double-check colors
- Test before closing up:
- Voltage test (230V between L and N)
- Earth continuity test
- RCD trip test
My sockets:
- Two sockets (kitchen and bedside)
- Surface-mounted (easier in van)
- Separate MCB protection
- Both work from hookup or inverter (switchable)
Step 5: Mains Battery Charger
Charges leisure battery from hookup:
Installation:
- Mount charger:
- Near battery
- Ventilated
- Protected from moisture
- 230V input:
- From consumer unit (6A MCB)
- Three-core cable
- Proper strain relief
- 12V output to battery:
- Positive to battery positive (fused)
- Negative to battery negative
- Same as other charging sources
- Configure charger:
- Battery type (lithium/AGM/etc.)
- Charging voltage
- Current limit
My charger (Victron Blue Smart 20A):
- Connected to consumer unit
- Auto-detects hookup connection
- Charges battery automatically
- Bluetooth monitoring (see status on phone)
Step 6: Switchover System
Choose power source (hookup vs inverter):
Option 1: Manual changeover
- Switch between hookup and inverter
- Simple, cheap
- Must remember to switch
Option 2: Automatic transfer switch
- Detects hookup presence
- Switches automatically
- More expensive (£80-150)
- Better user experience
Option 3: Separate circuits
- Hookup powers some sockets
- Inverter powers others
- No switching needed
- Simple but less flexible
My setup: Manual switch
- Three-position switch: OFF / Hookup / Inverter
- Feeds 230V socket circuits
- Must manually select (acceptable for my usage)
Step 7: Earthing
Critical for safety:
All 230V equipment must be earthed.
Earth system:
- Earth bus bar:
- All earth wires connect here
- Including: sockets, appliances, metal parts
- Van chassis:
- Connect earth bus to chassis
- Large cable (6-10mm²)
- Ensures fault current has path to ground
- Hookup earth:
- When on hookup, earth from campsite
- Provides earth reference
- Essential for RCD operation
My earthing:
- Earth bus bar in consumer unit
- Connected to chassis (10mm² cable)
- All sockets earthed
- All metal components bonded to earth
System Integration
Bringing everything together into one coherent system.
Step 1: Final Connections
Verify before powering up:
- Every circuit has fuse
- All connections tight
- No bare wires exposed
- Polarity correct everywhere
- Cable strain relief adequate
Create final checklist:
- [ ] Battery secured
- [ ] Main fuse installed (last step)
- [ ] Bus bars mounted
- [ ] All 12V circuits connected and fused
- [ ] DC-DC charger wired and tested
- [ ] Solar controller wired (if installed)
- [ ] Inverter wired and fused
- [ ] 240V RCD installed and tested
- [ ] All 230V circuits protected
- [ ] Earth bonding complete
- [ ] No shorts detected (multimeter test)
Step 2: Power-Up Sequence
Don’t just flip everything on at once.
Sequence:
- Insert main fuse (battery to bus bar)
- System is now live
- Check voltage at bus bar (12.4V typical)
- Turn on DC-DC charger (if installed)
- Start engine
- Verify charging (LED indicator)
- Check voltage rise on leisure battery
- Connect solar (if installed)
- Controller should detect panels
- Begin charging if sun available
- Test each 12V circuit individually:
- Turn on one circuit
- Verify device works
- Check current draw
- Turn off, move to next circuit
- Test inverter:
- Turn on inverter
- Check 230V output
- Test with small load
- Turn off
- Test 240V system (if installed):
- Connect hookup (or turn on inverter)
- Test RCD (press test button)
- Test each socket
- Verify earth bonding
Step 3: Load Testing
With system running:
Run everything simultaneously:
- All lights on
- Fridge running
- Heater on (if winter)
- Charge devices on USB
- Inverter powering laptop
Monitor:
- Battery voltage (should stay >12V under load)
- Current draw (battery monitor)
- Any hot cables (warning sign)
- Any strange smells (burning = stop immediately)
My testing:
- All loads on: 18A draw from battery
- Battery voltage: 12.6V (stable)
- No hot cables
- All devices working correctly
- Pass
Testing and Commissioning
Don’t skip this phase. Testing catches problems before they become failures.
Test 1: Polarity Verification
Every circuit:
- Set multimeter to DC voltage
- Measure at device:
- Red probe to positive
- Black probe to negative
- Should read 12-14V
- Reverse reading = wiring backwards (fix immediately)
- Check all circuits
Test 2: Voltage Drop Testing
For each circuit:
- Measure voltage at bus bar (source)
- Measure voltage at device (load) while running
- Calculate drop: Source voltage – Load voltage
- Should be <3%:
- Example: 12.6V source, 12.3V load = 0.3V drop (2.4%, acceptable)
If voltage drop excessive:
- Cable too thin (replace with thicker)
- Poor connections (re-crimp)
- Cable too long (reroute or upsize)
Test 3: Current Draw Verification
For each device:
- Check nameplate rating
- Measure actual current (clamp meter)
- Should match (within 10-20%)
Unexpected current:
- Higher than rated: Possible fault, investigate
- Much lower: May indicate problem or device not running full power
Test 4: Fuse Testing
Verify each fuse:
- Correct rating for circuit
- Actual continuity (multimeter)
- Properly seated in holder
Deliberately blow one fuse (use test fuse):
- Verify system protects correctly
- Fuse blows before cable damage
- Replace with correct rating
Test 5: RCD Testing (240V)
Monthly requirement:
- Press RCD test button
- Should trip immediately (<30ms)
- Reset RCD
- If doesn’t trip: Replace RCD (it’s faulty)
Test 6: Earth Continuity (240V)
Every earth connection:
- Multimeter in continuity/resistance mode
- Test from earth pin of socket to chassis
- Should have very low resistance (<1Ω)
- High resistance = poor earth (fix immediately)
Test 7: Insulation Resistance
Professional test (optional but recommended):
Specialist insulation tester:
- Tests cable insulation integrity
- Detects hidden damage
- Professional electrician can do this
Test 8: Load Profile Testing
Over 24 hours:
- Use van normally
- Monitor battery:
- SOC at start
- Daily consumption
- Lowest SOC reached
- Verify calculations accurate:
- Expected 70Ah use
- Actual 72Ah use
- Close enough
Test 9: Charging Testing
Each charging source:
Solar:
- Verify current flow in sun
- Check voltage regulation
- Confirm controller settings
DC-DC:
- Start engine
- Verify charging begins
- Check current matches rating
Hookup (if installed):
- Connect to hookup
- Verify charger activates
- Check charging current
Test 10: Integration Testing
All systems together:
- Charge from solar while using power
- Charge from DC-DC while using power
- Switch between hookup and inverter
- Run maximum load safely
My testing lasted 3 days:
- Day 1: Individual circuit tests
- Day 2: Integration testing
- Day 3: Real-world usage testing
- Found 2 minor issues (loose connection, one fuse rating wrong)
- Fixed and retested
- System perfect since
Cable Management
Final phase. Makes maintenance easier and looks professional.
Step 1: Bundle Cables
Group cables logically:
- Power distribution (battery to bus bar)
- Each circuit (bus bar to device)
- Charging cables (solar, DC-DC)
- 240V cables (separate from 12V)
Bundling:
- Cable loom (split conduit)
- Cable ties every 30cm
- Leave slack for service
Step 2: Secure Routing
Along van structure:
- Use cable clips or saddles
- Follow ribs or framework
- Avoid movement areas
Through panels:
- Grommets protect cables
- Strain relief prevents pulling
- Seal against water
My routing:
- Main cables along passenger-side rib
- Branch circuits to devices
- All in split loom
- Secured every 30cm
- Looks tidy, easy to trace
Step 3: Labeling
Label at both ends:
- Circuit origin (bus bar)
- Circuit destination (device)
- Cable size
- Fuse rating
My labels:
- “Lights Main – 10A – 2.5mm²”
- “Fridge – 15A – 4mm²”
- Clear, won’t rub off
Step 4: Access Points
Leave access for:
- Fuse replacement
- Connection inspection
- Future circuit additions
- Troubleshooting
Don’t bury cables where you can’t access them.
Step 5: Documentation
Create permanent record:
- Wiring diagram (laminated)
- Circuit list with:
- Circuit name
- Fuse rating
- Cable size
- Device location
- Component list
- Store in van
Future you will thank present you when troubleshooting in 2 years.
Troubleshooting
Common problems and solutions.
Problem: No Power at Device
Check:
- Main fuse installed?
- Circuit fuse blown? (check and replace)
- Switch on? (if switched circuit)
- Connections tight at bus bar?
- Connections tight at device?
- Cable damaged? (continuity test)
Problem: Fuse Keeps Blowing
Causes:
- Short circuit (cable damaged)
- Device faulty (drawing excess current)
- Fuse rating too low
- Cable too thin (overheating)
Diagnosis:
- Disconnect device
- Replace fuse
- If fuse holds, device is faulty
- If fuse still blows, short in cable
Problem: Low Voltage at Device
Causes:
- Voltage drop (cable too thin/long)
- Poor connections (high resistance)
- Battery depleted
Solutions:
- Measure voltage at source and load
- Calculate drop
- Upsize cable if needed
- Re-crimp connections
- Charge battery
Problem: RCD Trips Immediately
Causes:
- Earth fault (cable damaged)
- Wet connections
- Faulty appliance
Diagnosis:
- Disconnect all loads
- Reset RCD
- If trips, wiring fault
- If holds, reconnect loads one by one
- Trips when specific load connected = that load is faulty
Problem: Inverter Shuts Down Under Load
Causes:
- Battery voltage too low
- Overload (device draws more than inverter rated for)
- Cable too thin (voltage drop)
- Poor battery connections
Solutions:
- Charge battery
- Reduce load
- Check cable size adequate
- Tighten battery connections
Final Thoughts
I’ve installed four electrical systems over six years. The first took four weekends and had three major problems that required partial rewiring. The most recent took three days with zero issues.
The difference wasn’t skill or experience—it was methodology. The first system was “figure it out as I go.” The recent system was planned for a week before touching a wire. I drew diagrams, calculated every cable size, planned every route, prepared every tool. The installation itself was just executing the plan.
Here’s what I’ve learned: electrical installation rewards planning and punishes improvisation. The time spent planning (1 week) saved me three weekends of rework. The money spent on proper tools (£150) saved me from dangerous poor connections. The effort of proper testing (3 days) prevented failures that would’ve cost weeks of troubleshooting.
And please, don’t skip safety. Fuse everything. Use proper cable sizes. Test RCDs monthly. The £200 spent on protection could save your £30,000 van from fire. I’ve seen the aftermath of electrical fires in vans—they’re total losses. It’s not worth the risk.
My current system has been flawless for 14 months. It powers everything I need, charges reliably, and I’ve never once worried about safety. It cost £435 in materials and three days of work. That’s £17/month over 26 months for unlimited off-grid power. Worth every penny and every hour.
Now go plan your system properly, and actually follow the plan instead of improvising halfway through when you realize you forgot to buy ring terminals.
Where to Buy (UK Sources)
Cables:
- 12V Planet: Quality automotive cable
- Vehicle Wiring Products: Specialist auto electrical
- Auto Marine Electrical: Marine/automotive grade
Components:
- 12V Planet: Complete range, quality components
- Blue Sea Systems: Premium marine (via chandleries)
- Screwfix: Basic switches, consumer units
- CPC Farnell: Wide range, technical specs
Tools:
- Screwfix: Drills, basic tools
- Amazon UK: Crimping tools, multimeters
- RS Components: Professional test equipment
240V Components:
- Screwfix: RCDs, consumer units, sockets
- Toolstation: Similar to Screwfix
- CEF (City Electrical Factors): Trade supplier
Specialist Van Components:
- 12V Planet: Van-specific items
- Carbest/Dometic: German quality (premium)
- Various eBay sellers: Budget options
I’ve converted four campervans. The first was an absolute disaster that cost me £2,400 in mistakes I had to rip out and redo. The…
I’ve built four campervans. The first layout was so bad I couldn’t actually cook standing up. The second looked beautiful in photos but was completely impractical for real life. The third was better but I still couldn’t fit bikes inside without removing the bed. The fourth? Finally got it mostly right. This journey has taught me the importance of Designing the Perfect Campervan Layout.
Between those four builds, I’ve redesigned layouts completely three times, made £850 worth of furniture I had to scrap and rebuild, and learned that what looks perfect on paper often doesn’t work when you’re trying to cook pasta while your partner is trying to get changed and the dog is trying to exist in the same space.
This guide is everything I wish I’d known before I drew my first layout plan. Not the theory. Not the Instagram-perfect versions. The actual reality of living in a small metal box and how to design a space that works for your real life, not someone else’s aesthetic.
This guide is everything I wish I’d known before I drew my first layout plan. Not the theory. Not the Instagram-perfect versions. The actual reality of living in a small metal box and how to design a space that works for your real life, not someone else’s aesthetic. A good design is the key to achieving the Designing the Perfect Campervan Layout.
Why Layout Design Matters More Than Anything Else
Here’s the truth: you can fix bad insulation. You can upgrade your electrical system. You can repaint walls. But a fundamentally bad layout? That requires ripping everything out and starting again.
I know because I’ve done it. Twice.
Van #2: Beautiful L-shaped kitchen, gorgeous overhead storage, lovely dinette area. Completely useless. I couldn’t stand up where I needed to. The dinette ate space we never used. The overhead storage blocked the window. After six months of frustration, I ripped out £650 worth of furniture and rebuilt it.
Van #3: Much better, but I built permanent furniture everywhere. Looked great. Then we got bikes and realized we couldn’t fit them inside without dismantling half the interior. Spent another £200 making furniture modular.
What a good layout does:
- Lets you actually live comfortably in the space
- Makes daily tasks easy (cooking, sleeping, changing clothes)
- Stores everything you actually need
- Adapts to different trips (weekend vs. month-long)
- Doesn’t waste space on things you never use
- Works for YOUR specific needs (not Instagram’s)
What a bad layout does:
- Forces you into awkward positions constantly
- Makes simple tasks frustrating
- Leaves you with nowhere to put essential items
- Looks great but doesn’t function well
- Follows someone else’s idea of perfect
Layout design isn’t creative expression. It’s practical problem-solving. The best layout is the one you forget about because everything just works.
Understanding Your Real Constraints
Before you draw a single line, understand what you’re actually working with.
Van Size Reality Check
I’ve worked with different sizes. Here’s the usable space reality:
VW Transporter T5/T6 (SWB)
- Cargo area: 1.7m long x 1.7m wide x 1.4m high (standard roof)
- Usable space: About 4 cubic metres
- Standing height: No (unless you install a pop-top)
- Reality: Cosy. Very cosy. Works for weekends or one person full-time.
Ford Transit Custom (MWB, medium roof)
- Cargo area: 2.6m long x 1.7m wide x 1.75m high
- Usable space: About 7.7 cubic metres
- Standing height: Yes, if you’re under 1.83m (6ft)
- Reality: Sweet spot for most people. Enough space without being massive.
Mercedes Sprinter (MWB, high roof)
- Cargo area: 3.2m long x 1.8m wide x 1.9m high
- Usable space: About 11 cubic metres
- Standing height: Yes, properly (2m internal height)
- Reality: Luxurious amount of space. Pain to park. Overkill for weekends.
Mercedes Sprinter (LWB, high roof)
- Cargo area: 4.3m long x 1.8m wide x 1.9m high
- Usable space: About 14.7 cubic metres
- Standing height: Yes, everywhere
- Reality: This is a small house. Also won’t fit most UK car parks.
What size do you actually need?
I’ve lived in a SWB Transporter and now have a MWB Transit Custom. Here’s my honest assessment:
Choose SWB if:
- Weekend trips only (max 1-2 weeks)
- Solo or couple without pets
- You prioritize city parking and stealth
- You’re okay without standing height
- Budget is tight (smaller = cheaper everything)
Choose MWB if:
- Regular trips (weeks at a time)
- Couple with dog, or small family
- You want standing height
- You want a real kitchen and storage
- You’ll use it 30+ nights per year
Choose LWB if:
- Full-time or near full-time living
- You want a wet room/toilet
- You need office space inside
- You’re okay with parking challenges
- You have the budget (bigger = more expensive everything)
My recommendation: For most UK-based people doing serious weekends and occasional longer trips, MWB with medium-to-high roof is the sweet spot. Big enough to be comfortable, small enough to be practical.
Understanding Your Actual Usage
Before you design anything, honestly answer these questions:
How will you actually use the van?
- Weekend trips (2-3 nights)
- Week-long holidays
- Extended tours (2-4 weeks)
- Full-time living
- Occasional camping (10-20 nights/year)
Be honest. Most people design for full-time living but use it 15 nights a year. That’s wasted space and money.
Who’s using it?
- Solo
- Couple
- Family with kids
- With pets
- Friends occasionally
What activities?
- Beach camping (need outdoor shower, sand management)
- Mountain adventures (need bike storage, hiking gear space)
- Festivals (need party supplies, more seating)
- Work travel (need desk space, good lighting, power)
- Photography trips (need gear storage, work surface)
What season?
- Summer only (different needs than winter)
- Year-round (need serious heating, insulation matters more)
- Shoulder season mostly (spring/autumn – easier)
I designed van #1 for long weekends. I used it maybe 40 nights that year. All that space for a shower and toilet? Wasted. Van #4 is designed for 80-100 nights per year with occasional longer trips. Much more practical.
Physical Constraints You Can’t Change
Your height matters enormously.
I’m 1.78m (5’10”). My wife is 1.5m (5’9″). We can both stand in a medium roof Transit Custom. Just.
My mate is 1.93m (6’4″). He can’t stand in anything except a high roof. This fundamentally changes layouts – if you can’t stand up, you build differently.
Your mobility matters.
Can you:
- Climb over furniture to get to the bed?
- Squat down to access under-bed storage?
- Reach overhead cupboards?
- Step up into the van easily?
I’m reasonably fit but my knees aren’t great. I avoid layouts requiring constant climbing over things.
Your sleeping position matters.
- Side sleeper: Need minimum 1.2m width, prefer 1.4m
- Back sleeper: Can manage 1.1m width
- Couple: Need 1.4m minimum, 1.6m is comfortable
- Restless sleeper: Want space to spread out
Your cooking habits matter.
- Rarely cook: Tiny kitchen is fine
- Cook proper meals: Need worktop space, storage for ingredients
- Coffee only: Just need a kettle and mug storage
- Breakfast cook: Need space for multiple pans
Don’t design a massive kitchen if you eat out most of the time. Don’t design a tiny one if you actually cook.
The Essential Zones (And How Much Space They Actually Need)
Every van needs certain functional areas. Here’s the reality of how much space each actually requires.
Zone 1: Sleeping Area (Priority 1)
You spend 8 hours here every night. Get this wrong and everything else is miserable.
Minimum dimensions:
- Solo: 1.9m x 1.0m (tight but manageable)
- Comfortable solo: 1.9m x 1.2m
- Couple minimum: 1.9m x 1.3m (we tried this – too narrow)
- Couple comfortable: 1.9m x 1.4m
- Couple luxury: 1.9m x 1.6m
- With dog/kids: 1.9m x 1.6m minimum
Don’t compromise on length. 1.9m is absolute minimum unless you’re very short. I’m 1.78m and need every bit of 1.9m.
Bed position options:
Across the back (what I use):
- Pros: Uses full width (1.7m+), easy access, loads of storage underneath, simple to build
- Cons: Takes up 1.9m of length, limits rear access
- Best for: MWB and LWB vans where length isn’t critical
Side-to-side along one wall:
- Pros: Leaves rear open, can fold up for garage space, versatile
- Cons: Limited width (max 1.2m typically), difficult to make comfortable for couples
- Best for: Solo travelers, SWB vans, people who need bike storage
Rock and roll bed:
- Pros: Doubles as seating, quick conversion, saves space during day
- Cons: Expensive (£1,200-£2,500), uncomfortable compared to proper bed, limits rear door access
- Best for: Weekend warriors who want day-time seating space
Pull-out/extending bed:
- Pros: Saves daytime space, can create larger sleeping area
- Cons: Complex mechanism, stuff must be cleared before sleeping, more things to break
- Best for: People who use van during day for working/living
Roof pop-top bed:
- Pros: Doesn’t use floor space, kids love it, adds standing height
- Cons: Expensive (£2,500-£5,000 installed), cold in winter, can’t use in high winds
- Best for: Families, people who need maximum floor space
My experience:
Van #1: Rock and roll bed (£1,450)
- Uncomfortable. Really uncomfortable. The cushions were hard, the frame was uneven, and I couldn’t get a proper mattress on it.
- Useful as seating but we barely used it as seating.
- Sold it for £800 and built a fixed bed.
Van #2-4: Fixed bed across the back (1.9m x 1.4m)
- Cost: £180 in materials
- Comfortable with a proper 10cm memory foam mattress (£285)
- Massive storage underneath (split into sections with plastic boxes)
- Can remove front section (4 bolts) for bike access if needed
- No regrets. This is what I’d build again.
Bed construction tips:
What worked:
- 18mm ply base
- 47mm x 75mm timber frame
- Slats across the top (18 slats, 50mm spacing)
- Allows airflow under mattress (prevents moisture)
- Front section bolted (removable), back section screwed (permanent)
What didn’t work:
- Solid ply base (no airflow – mattress got damp)
- Too-narrow slats (sagged under weight)
- Not securing it properly (moved while driving – terrifying on motorway)
Zone 2: Kitchen (Priority 2)
You need to cook. Even if it’s just heating beans and boiling water for coffee.
Minimum kitchen:
- Worktop: 60cm x 40cm
- Hob: Two burner (you don’t need four)
- Storage: 30L for food and cooking equipment
- Sink: 30cm diameter (or skip it entirely)
Comfortable kitchen:
- Worktop: 90cm x 50cm
- Hob: Two burner gas or single induction
- Storage: 60L minimum (cupboard + drawer)
- Sink: 35cm diameter with draining board
Luxury kitchen:
- Worktop: 120cm x 50cm
- Hob: Three burner or two-burner + grill
- Storage: 100L+ (multiple cupboards)
- Sink: 40cm double bowl
- Fridge: 40L+ compressor (separate from kitchen but counts)
What you DON’T need:
An oven. I’ve built one (van #2). Used it four times. It heated the van unbearably, used loads of gas, and took up space I needed for storage. Ripped it out after a year.
A four-burner hob. Unless you’re cooking for six people regularly, two burners is plenty. I cook full roast dinners on two burners. Stew in one pan, veg in the other. Easy.
A massive sink. I’ve had everything from a 25cm bowl to a 40cm double-bowl sink. The sweet spot is 30-35cm single bowl. Big enough to wash pans, small enough not to dominate the worktop.
Kitchen layout options:
Side kitchen (galley style):
- Kitchen units along one side
- Usually 80-120cm long
- Worktop, hob, sink in a line
- Storage underneath
Pros: Efficient workflow, everything in reach, easy to build Cons: Can block one side of van, limits width for other things
L-shaped kitchen:
- Kitchen along one side and across the back
- More worktop space
- Can separate wet (sink) and cooking zones
Pros: Loads of worktop, feels spacious, very functional Cons: Takes up lots of floor space, expensive to build, limits sleeping area
Rear kitchen:
- Kitchen across the back near doors
- Access from rear or from inside
- Popular in panel vans
Pros: Easy loading, can cook outside with doors open, leaves living area clear Cons: Bed must be elsewhere, less convenient in bad weather, security issues with rear doors open
My experience:
Van #1: Tiny side kitchen (60cm long)
- Worktop: 60cm x 40cm
- One-burner camping stove
- No sink (used a washing up bowl)
- Barely adequate. Constantly running out of space. Everything was cramped.
Van #2: L-shaped kitchen (looked amazing)
- Worktop: 90cm along side + 80cm across back
- Two-burner hob + oven
- 35cm sink with draining board
- Loads of storage
- Problem: Took up so much space the bed was cramped. The oven was useless. The L-shape meant I was always in someone’s way.
- Ripped it out after 6 months.
Van #3-4: Side kitchen (90cm long, optimized)
- Worktop: 90cm x 50cm
- Two-burner gas hob
- 32cm round sink
- Cupboard underneath + one drawer
- Perfect. Enough space to cook properly. Not so big it dominates the van. Would build this again.
Kitchen placement relative to other zones:
Think about workflow:
- Food storage → 2. Prep area → 3. Cooking → 4. Eating → 5. Washing up
My current layout:
- Food storage in cupboard below and overhead
- Prep area on worktop (60cm clear space)
- Hob at end of worktop
- Sink next to hob
- Seating area opposite (eating zone)
- Washing up in sink, dishes drain on worktop
This flows naturally. I’m not constantly moving around the van.
Fridge placement:
Separate decision but affects kitchen layout.
Options:
- Under worktop (takes cupboard space)
- Under seat (takes seating/storage space)
- Slide-out drawer (expensive but excellent access)
- Separate location entirely
I have mine under the seating area opposite the kitchen. 20L compressor fridge (Alpicool C20, £185). Easy access, doesn’t block anything, stays cool in its ventilated space.
Zone 3: Storage (Priority 3 – More Critical Than You Think)
I massively underestimated storage in every build. Everyone does.
What you actually need to store:
Clothes:
- 7 days for two people = two large rucksacks worth
- Extra jackets, waterproofs (bulky)
- Spare shoes, boots
- Hats, gloves, scarves
Food:
- Dry goods (pasta, rice, tins) = 20-30L
- Snacks and treats = 10L
- Herbs, spices, oils = 5L
- Fresh food in fridge
Cooking equipment:
- Pans (2-3), pots (1-2), kettle
- Plates, bowls (4 of each minimum)
- Mugs (4), glasses (4)
- Cutlery, utensils, kitchen knife
- Storage: 25-35L
Outdoor gear:
- Walking boots, climbing shoes, wetsuits, etc.
- Camping chairs (2) = bulky
- Beach stuff or climbing gear or bike tools
- Storage: 40-60L depending on your hobbies
Bedding:
- Duvet, pillows
- Spare blanket
- Sheets (ideally 2 sets)
Bathroom:
- Toiletries for two people = surprisingly large
- Towels (4 minimum)
- Toilet paper, cleaning supplies
Tools and spares:
- Basic toolkit
- Spare fuses, bulbs, electrical bits
- Duck tape, cable ties, fixings
- WD-40, spare fluids
Random essential stuff:
- Dog supplies (food, bowls, leads, bedding)
- Books, games, entertainment
- Work equipment (laptops, chargers)
- Camera gear
- First aid kit
Total storage needed realistically:
- Minimum (weekends only): 200-250L
- Comfortable (regular use): 300-400L
- Full-time living: 500L+
Storage solutions that work:
Underbed storage:
- Largest available space usually
- I use Really Useful Boxes (84L size, £15 each)
- Three boxes fit under my bed (252L total)
- Organized: 1. Clothes, 2. Outdoor gear, 3. Tools/spares
- Access: Remove front bed section (30 seconds)
Overhead cupboards:
- Above bed, along walls
- Maximum depth: 35cm (deeper and they’re claustrophobic)
- Perfect for light items: clothes, bedding, towels
- My overhead: 1.8m x 0.35m x 0.3m deep = 189L
Kitchen storage:
- Cupboard under worktop: Food and pans = 60L
- Drawer: Utensils and small items = 15L
- Overhead (above kitchen): Plates, mugs, glasses = 25L
Under-seating storage:
- Bench seat with storage underneath
- Mine: 0.8m x 0.4m x 0.4m deep = 128L
- Contains: fridge (20L) + 12V electrical (20L) + misc (88L)
Door pockets and small storage:
- Over door hooks
- Mesh pockets
- Magnetic strips (knives, tools)
- Tiny spaces add up
Total in my current van: About 680L of actual usable storage. And it’s still not quite enough sometimes.
Storage mistakes I made:
Mistake 1: Beautiful cupboards with no access Van #2 had gorgeous overhead cupboards. Opening required removing everything from the worktop first. Used them twice. Waste of money.
Mistake 2: Deep shelves 40cm deep overhead cupboards. Things disappeared at the back. Impossible to see what you had. Frustrating.
Mistake 3: No organization system Everything just thrown in underbed space. Had to empty everything to find one thing. Maddening.
Mistake 4: Fixed shelves in cupboards Can’t reorganize. Can’t fit different-sized items. Inflexible.
What works better:
- Shallow overhead cupboards (25-30cm max)
- Removable shelves or no shelves (use boxes instead)
- Clear/translucent storage boxes (see what’s inside)
- Labeled boxes (seems obvious but essential)
- Easy access to everything you use daily
Zone 4: Seating (Priority 4)
You need somewhere to sit that isn’t your bed.
Minimum: Floor cushions (free if you’re comfortable sitting on floor)
Better: Simple bench seat
- 80cm x 40cm seating area = 2 people cozy
- Cushions on top (£40-£80 for foam + fabric)
- Storage underneath
Comfortable: L-shaped seating or bench + chairs
- Proper seating for 2-4 people
- Table for eating/working
- Relaxing space
What you don’t need: A full dinette setup unless you’ll actually use it.
Van #2 had a dinette. Fold-out table, L-shaped seating, the works. Cost me £380 to build. Used it maybe 15 times in a year. Most of the time we ate outside or sat on the bed. It took up huge amounts of space for minimal benefit.
Ripped it out. Built a simple bench seat instead. Cost £95. Use it constantly.
Current setup:
- Bench seat: 80cm along one wall, 60cm along back
- Cushions on top
- Storage underneath
- Removable camping table (£35) stored in underbed
- Works perfectly. Sit here to eat, read, work on laptop
- When we need more space, the camping table comes out
Seating position relative to other zones:
Seating opposite kitchen = perfect. You can:
- Cook while chatting to someone sitting
- Pass food from kitchen to seating easily
- Use seating as overflow prep space if needed
Seating facing the same direction as travel = illegal for passengers in some cases. Check regulations. Must have proper seatbelts and comply with laws.
Zone 5: Workspace (Optional But Important for Remote Work)
If you’re working remotely, you need dedicated workspace.
Minimum workspace:
- 50cm x 40cm flat surface
- Power (12V or 240V)
- Lighting
- Somewhere to sit comfortably
Better workspace:
- 70cm x 50cm surface
- Laptop + notebook space
- Multiple power outlets/USB
- Good natural light
- Proper seating position (not hunched)
My solution:
I don’t have dedicated workspace. I use:
- Kitchen worktop (cleared of stuff) = 60cm x 50cm
- Sitting on bench seat
- USB charging points nearby
- LED overhead light
- Window next to worktop (natural light)
Works for 2-3 hours of laptop work. Not ideal for full days but adequate for emails and admin.
If you work 4+ hours daily in the van: Consider a dedicated desk area. This usually means:
- Sacrificing some seating or storage space
- Mounting a fold-down desk
- Using the dinette table as permanent desk
- Having a separate office van (some people literally have two vans)
Zone 6: Bathroom/Toilet (Optional – Skip Unless Full-Time)
Reality check: Most people don’t need a toilet or shower in their van.
Toilet: I have a portable Thetford Porta Potti (£68) that lives in a sealed box under the bed. Used it maybe 10 times in two years. But when you need it at 3am in a layby, it’s worth having.
Shower: Nope. Never built one. Never missed it.
Solutions that work better:
- Campsites (£15-£25 per night gets you hot showers)
- Gym membership (£25/month, hot showers anywhere)
- Wild swimming (free, character-building)
- Solar shower bag (£18) hung from the door in summer
- Portable camping shower (£25-£45) for rinsing off
If you’re going full-time and absolutely must have a shower:
Budget space:
- Wet room: 0.8m x 0.8m minimum
- Shower tray, shower head, curtain
- Gray water tank (25L minimum)
- Hot water system (adds complexity and weight)
- Ventilation (essential – moisture is a nightmare)
This is 0.64 square meters of floor space. In a MWB van (4.25 square meters), that’s 15% of your floor gone. Worth it? Only you can decide.
My mate has a full wet room in his LWB Sprinter. Uses it twice a week. Brilliant. But he lives in it 300 days a year. For my 80-100 nights, it’s not worth the space.
Zone 7: Garage/Bike Storage (Optional But Useful)
If you’re into biking, surfing, climbing, or any activity with bulky gear, dedicated storage matters.
Options:
Rear garage:
- Bed raises up or slides forward
- Bikes/surfboards fit underneath or behind
- 1.0m x 1.7m x 0.6m high = enough for 2 bikes
- Access from rear doors
Roof rack:
- 2-4 bikes on top
- Pros: Doesn’t take internal space
- Cons: Height issues (car parks, ferries), theft risk, wind noise, fuel penalty
Internal rail system:
- Bikes hang from ceiling or wall
- Saves floor space
- Still takes up room (bikes are big)
Rear-mounted rack:
- Bikes on the back (requires rear carrier)
- Pros: Easy access, doesn’t affect height
- Cons: Blocks rear access, theft risk, weight on rear door
My approach: Removable bed front section. Takes 2 minutes to remove (4 bolts). Bikes fit in the space where bed was (1.2m x 1.7m x 1.0m high). Then I reconstruct the bed with the bikes underneath if we’re sleeping there, or leave it open for travel days.
Not perfect but works. I can carry 2 bikes internally when needed without permanently dedicating space to them.
Common Layout Types (And What Works In Real Life)
Let me break down the most common layouts and the reality of living with them.
Layout 1: Fixed Bed Across Back + Side Kitchen
Setup:
- Bed across full width at back (1.9m x 1.4-1.7m)
- Kitchen along one side (80-100cm long)
- Seating opposite kitchen
- Storage: underbed, overhead, kitchen cupboards
Pros:
- Comfortable bed (uses full width)
- Good kitchen space
- Natural workflow (kitchen opposite seating)
- Relatively simple to build
- Works for couples
Cons:
- Bed takes up permanent space (can’t use for anything else)
- Limited rear access (rear doors blocked by bed)
- Less flexible than modular options
Best for: Regular weekend trips, couple without bikes/bulky gear, people who prioritize comfortable sleeping
This is what I have. Works brilliantly for 80-90% of our trips. The 10% where we want bikes is slightly awkward but manageable.
Cost to build: £650-£900 (furniture materials + mattress)
Layout 2: Rock and Roll Bed + Kitchen
Setup:
- Rock and roll bed (doubles as seating)
- Kitchen along one side
- Rear area open (garage space)
Pros:
- Doubles as seating during day
- Rear access clear (bikes, gear)
- Space-efficient
- Quick conversion bed ↔ seating
Cons:
- Rock and roll beds expensive (£1,200-£2,500)
- Not as comfortable as proper bed
- Cushions must be arranged/rearranged constantly
- Limits rear door access when in bed mode
Best for: Weekend warriors who want seating space during day, people who need rear access, solo travelers
I tried this. Hated the bed comfort. Loved the flexibility. Would only use again if I was doing very short trips (2-3 nights maximum).
Cost to build: £1,800-£3,200 (rock and roll bed + kitchen)
Layout 3: Side-to-Side Bed + Rear Kitchen
Setup:
- Bed along one side (up to 1.2m wide x 1.9m long)
- Kitchen across the back
- Open living space in middle
- Often with pop-top for extra head height
Pros:
- Living area feels spacious
- Easy to move around
- Rear kitchen accessible from outside
- Good for one person or couple in SWB van
Cons:
- Bed narrower (challenging for couples)
- Kitchen less convenient in bad weather (rear doors)
- More complex build
Best for: Solo travelers, SWB vans, people who want open feeling, those who cook outside often
Haven’t built this myself but driven a mate’s setup. Felt spacious but that narrow bed would drive me mad.
Cost to build: £700-£1,100
Layout 4: Full-Width Bed With Lift-Up Front (Garage Under)
Setup:
- Full-width bed at back (1.9m x 1.4-1.7m)
- Front section lifts up or slides forward
- Bikes/gear stored underneath
- Kitchen and living area up front
Pros:
- Comfortable bed when sleeping
- Garage space when traveling
- Best of both worlds
- Good use of space
Cons:
- Requires lifting mechanism (gas struts or slides)
- More complex to build
- Must clear bed to access garage
- Can be heavy to lift
Best for: Active people who need gear storage, couples who want comfortable bed, those willing to build more complex system
My mate has this. Uses it brilliantly. But he’s more mechanically minded than me. I’d probably cock up the lifting mechanism.
Cost to build: £900-£1,400 (includes lifting hardware)
Layout 5: L-Shaped Living Area With Pull-Out Bed
Setup:
- Seating in L-shape (dinette style)
- Table in center
- Bed pulls out from seating or converts from seating
- Kitchen separate
Pros:
- Spacious living area during day
- Good for socializing
- Bed hidden when not in use
- Works for families
Cons:
- Must convert bed every night/morning
- Conversion can be faff
- Less comfortable than fixed bed usually
- Takes time to set up
Best for: Families with kids, people who entertain others, those who use van as daytime living space, people who prioritize sitting space over sleeping comfort
Tried a version in van #2. The conversion process got old fast. After two weeks I just left it as a bed permanently and the whole dinette idea was pointless.
Cost to build: £800-£1,300
Layout 6: Minimalist (Mattress on Floor + Portable Everything)
Setup:
- Mattress directly on floor (or low platform)
- Portable camping kitchen
- Plastic boxes for storage
- Fold-up table and chairs
Pros:
- Ultra-cheap (£200-£400 total)
- Completely flexible
- Can remove everything
- Use van for work during week
- Easy to change
Cons:
- Less comfortable
- Feels temporary
- Not weather-sealed (everything moves)
- Looks messy
- No fixed kitchen means less convenient cooking
Best for: People testing vanlife before committing, those on tiny budget, people who need work van during week, minimalists
Started here with van #1. Worked for testing the concept. Upgraded to fixed furniture after 6 months because I was fed up with things sliding around.
Cost: £200-£400
The Planning Process (How to Actually Design Your Layout)
Right. You understand your space, your needs, and common layouts. Now how do you actually design YOUR layout?
Step 1: Measure Everything (Obsessively)
What to measure:
Van dimensions:
- Internal length (cargo area only)
- Internal width (narrowest point – usually wheel arches)
- Internal height (measure in multiple places – vans aren’t uniform)
- Wheel arch intrusion (they eat floor space)
- Pillar positions (they limit where furniture can go)
- Window positions (affects furniture placement)
- Door opening sizes (affects access for furniture installation)
Your body dimensions:
- Your height (affects bed length, standing areas)
- Shoulder width (affects passageways)
- Reach height (affects overhead storage)
- Comfortable seating dimensions
Your gear dimensions:
- Bikes (length, width, height)
- Storage boxes you already own
- Fridge size you’re considering
- Camping chairs you use
I made cardboard templates of our bikes. Saved me from building a garage that was 5cm too short.
Tools for measuring:
- Tape measure (obvious)
- Laser measure (£25-£45, worth it for accuracy)
- Spirit level (vans aren’t level – affects furniture)
- Notepad (write everything down – you’ll forget)
Step 2: Make Cardboard Mockups (Seriously)
This sounds ridiculous. It’s the most valuable thing I did for van #4.
What I did:
- Bought cheap cardboard boxes from moving company (£20 for 10 boxes)
- Made furniture-sized boxes:
- Bed: 1.9m x 1.4m x 0.45m high
- Kitchen unit: 0.9m x 0.5m x 0.9m high
- Seating: 0.8m x 0.4m x 0.45m high
- Placed them in the van in different configurations
- Got in, moved around, pretended to cook, pretended to sleep
- Adjusted positions
What I learned:
- My planned kitchen was 10cm too long (would’ve blocked access to bed)
- The overhead storage I planned was claustrophobic (changed to shorter cupboards)
- I needed 70cm width for walkway (planned for 60cm – too narrow)
- The table I wanted wouldn’t fit where I thought
Saved me from building £400 of furniture in the wrong place.
If you skip one step in this guide, don’t skip this one.
Step 3: Draw It Out (Multiple Times)
Tools:
Paper and pencil (my preference):
- Free
- Quick to iterate
- Can sketch while sitting in the van
- Draw to scale (graph paper helps)
- I use 1 square = 10cm
Computer software:
- SketchUp (free version available)
- Autodesk Fusion 360 (free for personal use)
- Sweethome3D (free, easy to learn)
- Detailed 3D models
- Can do proper measurements
- Looks professional
Mobile apps:
- MagicPlan
- RoomScan
- Various floor plan apps
- Good for quick layouts
- Less detailed than computer software
I use paper first for rough concepts, then move to SketchUp for final design. Paper is faster for iterating. SketchUp is better for final details and measurements.
Draw multiple views:
- Plan view (looking down from above)
- Side elevation (looking from side)
- Front elevation (looking from rear/front)
- 3D perspective if possible
Step 4: Test Your Design (Before Building Anything)
Questions to ask:
Movement flow:
- Can you walk from door to bed without climbing?
- Can you reach the kitchen from seating?
- Can you get to storage without moving everything else?
- Is there a natural traffic flow?
Daily tasks:
- Can you cook while someone else is in the van?
- Can one person sleep while another is awake?
- Can you change clothes without sitting on the bed?
- Can you access the fridge without asking someone to move?
Access and entry:
- Can you carry furniture in through the door? (Check dimensions!)
- Can you access underbed storage without removing the bed?
- Can you reach overhead storage without a step ladder?
Emergency situations:
- Can you get out quickly if needed?
- Is the fire extinguisher accessible?
- Can you reach the door from the bed?
Real-world scenarios to test mentally:
Scenario 1: Rainy day
- You’re both inside all day
- Someone’s working on laptop
- Someone’s reading
- You both need lunch
- Where does everyone sit? How do you cook? Where does wet gear go?
Scenario 2: Getting ready in the morning
- One person needs to cook breakfast
- One person needs to get dressed
- Can this happen simultaneously?
- Where’s the traffic conflict?
Scenario 3: Loading for a trip
- Food shopping for a week
- Clothes for two people
- Outdoor gear (bikes, wetsuits, whatever)
- Where does it all go?
- How long to pack?
I mentally tested these for van #4. Found several issues:
- Couldn’t both get dressed simultaneously (would bump into each other)
- Kitchen blocked access to bed (one person trapped if other cooking)
- Revised layout to add 15cm more walkway space
Step 5: Budget Reality Check
Every layout has a cost. More complex = more expensive.
Budget by layout complexity:
Simple (£600-£1,000):
- Fixed bed (basic frame + mattress)
- Simple kitchen (worktop, hob, basic storage)
- Minimal seating
- Open storage
Standard (£1,200-£2,000):
- Fixed bed with storage underneath
- Proper kitchen with cupboards and drawer
- Seating with storage
- Overhead cupboards
- Wall lining and flooring
Complex (£2,500-£4,000):
- Rock and roll bed or lift-up bed system
- Extensive kitchen with multiple cupboards
- Dinette setup or complex seating
- Lots of custom furniture
- High-end finishes
Very Complex (£5,000+):
- Custom mechanical systems (bed lifts, pull-outs)
- Wet room installation
- Built-in appliances (oven, fridge, etc.)
- Professional joinery
- Bespoke everything
My van builds:
- Van #1: £850 (basic, lots of compromises)
- Van #2: £2,100 (complex, mostly wasted because I redesigned it)
- Van #3: £1,600 (good but needed modifications)
- Van #4: £1,350 (optimized from previous learning)
The expensive lessons from van #2 made van #4 cheaper because I knew exactly what worked.
Common Layout Mistakes (That I Made So You Don’t Have To)
Mistake 1: Prioritizing Aesthetics Over Function
What I did: Van #2, I designed a beautiful L-shaped kitchen with lovely curved edges, matching overhead cupboards, and a dinette area that looked Instagram-perfect.
Result:
- Couldn’t stand in the right place (head hit overhead cupboard)
- Curved edges wasted 15cm of usable worktop
- Dinette looked great but we sat there maybe 10 times
- Cooking was awkward because everything was slightly wrong position
Cost: £650 to build + £480 to rebuild = £1,130 wasted
Lesson: Function first. Always. If it doesn’t work well, it doesn’t matter how good it looks.
Mistake 2: Not Leaving Enough Walkway Space
What I did: Designed everything to maximize furniture. Left 55cm walkway.
Result: Constantly banging into things. Couldn’t walk past someone. Felt cramped and claustrophobic.
Fix: Redesigned to leave 70cm walkway. Immediately felt more spacious.
Lesson: Minimum 65cm walkway. 70-75cm is comfortable. Don’t sacrifice this for extra storage.
Mistake 3: Building Everything Fixed
What I did: Van #2, everything was permanently fixed. Looked built-in and professional.
Result: Couldn’t adapt to different trips. Couldn’t fit bikes without removing furniture. Couldn’t change anything without major work.
Lesson: Modular is better. Fixed what must be fixed (kitchen, bed frame). Removable everything else.
Current van:
- Bed front section: 4 bolts (removable in 2 minutes)
- Seating cushions: Lift off (storage access)
- Table: Separate camping table (stored when not needed)
- Storage boxes: Not built in (can remove, reorganize, replace)
Mistake 4: Overhead Storage Too Deep
What I did: 40cm deep overhead cupboards in van #2. Thought more storage = better.
Result:
- Hit my head constantly
- Felt claustrophobic
- Things disappeared at the back
- Rarely used the back half
Lesson: Maximum 30cm deep for overhead. 25cm is better. Shallow and long beats deep and high.
Mistake 5: No Thought to Installation
What I did: Built beautiful furniture in my workshop. Couldn’t get it through the van door.
Result: Had to disassemble it, modify it, reassemble inside. Three extra days of work.
Lesson:
- Check door dimensions (including angles)
- Build in sections if needed
- Or build inside the van (more awkward but guarantees it fits)
Mistake 6: Ignoring Weight Distribution
What I did: Put all heavy stuff (batteries, water, tools) at the back in van #1.
Result: Van felt tail-heavy. Handling was weird. Suspension sagged at back.
Lesson: Distribute weight evenly. Heavy items (batteries, water tanks) should be low and central. Check payload regularly.
My current weight distribution:
- Batteries: Under seating (central, low)
- Water: Under kitchen (front area, low)
- Tools: Distributed in underbed storage (spread across width)
- Heavy items: Never all in one area
Mistake 7: Not Planning for Condensation
What I did: Overhead cupboards with no ventilation.
Result: Condensation formed inside cupboards. Clothes got damp. Had to drill ventilation holes afterward.
Lesson: Ventilation matters everywhere. Cupboards need it. Under-bed storage needs it. Air must circulate.
Real-World Examples From My Builds
Let me give you the actual layouts I’ve built with honest assessments.
Van #1: VW Transporter T5 (Learning Experience)
Specs: SWB, standard roof, 2008, 1.7m x 1.7m x 1.4m interior
Layout:
- Rock and roll bed (full width)
- Tiny kitchen (60cm) along side
- Minimal storage (underbed only)
- No overhead cupboards
- Portapotti under bed
What worked:
- Rear access clear for bikes
- Rock and roll was okay for seating
- Simple and cheap (£850 total)
What didn’t:
- Rock and roll bed uncomfortable for sleeping
- Kitchen too small (constantly running out of space)
- Not enough storage (bags everywhere)
- Felt cramped constantly
Duration: Used for 10 months then sold
Would I build this again? No. Good learning experience but fundamentally limited by SWB size and poor layout choices.
Van #2: Ford Transit Custom MWB (The Beautiful Mistake)
Specs: MWB, medium roof, 2015, 2.6m x 1.7m x 1.75m interior
Layout (original):
- L-shaped kitchen (gorgeous but huge)
- Dinette seating area with table
- Bed across back (1.9m x 1.35m – too narrow)
- Gas oven + two-burner hob
- Lots of overhead storage (too deep)
What worked:
- Looked professional
- Lots of worktop space
- Good lighting
- Proper electrical system
What didn’t:
- Dinette barely used (wasted space)
- Bed too narrow (uncomfortable for two)
- Kitchen dominated the van
- Overhead storage hit my head
- Oven useless
Cost: £2,100 initial build
Layout (after redesign 6 months later):
- Straight kitchen (90cm) along one side
- Ripped out dinette
- Built simple bench seating
- Widened bed to 1.4m
- Removed oven
- Shorter overhead cupboards
Cost of redesign: £480 + my time
What worked after redesign:
- Much better proportions
- Comfortable bed
- Kitchen still good but not dominating
- More open feeling
Duration: Used for 3 years total, sold when upgrading
Would I build this again? The redesigned version, yes. Original version, absolutely not.
Van #3: Ford Transit Custom MWB (Getting There)
Specs: MWB, medium roof, 2016, 2.6m x 1.7m x 1.75m interior
Layout:
- Fixed bed across back (1.9m x 1.4m)
- Side kitchen (90cm)
- L-shaped seating
- Overhead storage above bed
- Underbed storage organized with boxes
What worked:
- Comfortable bed finally
- Kitchen perfect size and position
- Good storage solutions
- Proper ventilation (learned from van #2)
What didn’t:
- Everything was permanently fixed (couldn’t fit bikes)
- Seating was nice but took up lots of space
- Some wasted space in corners
Modifications after 6 months:
- Made bed front section removable
- Reduced seating to simple bench
- Added flexibility
Duration: Used for 2 years, sold when moving to current van
Would I build this again? Very close. 80% right. Just needed more flexibility from the start.
Van #4: Ford Transit Custom MWB (Current – Finally Got It Right)
Specs: MWB, medium roof, 2017, 2.6m x 1.7m x 1.75m interior
Layout:
- Fixed bed across back (1.9m x 1.4m)
- Front section removable (4 bolts)
- Side kitchen (90cm) with two-burner hob and sink
- Simple bench seating (L-shaped, minimal)
- Storage: underbed (boxes), overhead (shallow cupboards), kitchen cupboards
- 20L fridge under seating
- Diesel heater under bed
- Separate camping table (stored, not built-in)
What works:
- Comfortable bed (10cm memory foam mattress)
- Kitchen perfect for cooking real meals
- Seating adequate for two people
- Modular – can adapt to different trips
- Bikes fit when needed (remove bed front)
- Good storage (though never quite enough)
- 70cm walkway feels spacious
What doesn’t:
- Still not quite enough storage (is there ever?)
- Seating could be slightly comfier (cushions are okay not great)
- No dedicated workspace (use worktop but not ideal)
Cost: £1,350 (learned from previous mistakes)
Duration: 18 months so far, no plans to change
Would I build this again? Yes. This is the one I’d replicate. Small improvements possible but fundamentally sound.
My Final Recommendations
After four builds, here’s what I’d tell my younger self:
1. Start with needs, not wants
Don’t design for Instagram. Design for your actual life. If you’re doing weekend trips, you don’t need a shower. If you never cook elaborate meals, you don’t need a huge kitchen.
2. Modular beats permanent
Fix what must be fixed. Make everything else removable or adaptable. Your needs will change. Your layout should adapt.
3. Comfort beats aesthetics
A comfortable bed matters more than matching cupboards. A functional kitchen matters more than curved edges. Prioritize accordingly.
4. Leave space to move
70cm minimum for walkways. Don’t cram everything in. Space to move makes a small van feel bigger than cramming more furniture.
5. Storage everywhere
Every cubic centimeter counts. Underbed, overhead, under seats, door pockets, magnetic strips. You’ll always need more storage than you plan for.
6. Test before building
Cardboard mockups. Sketches. Multiple iterations. The hour you spend testing saves the week you spend rebuilding.
7. Simple is better
Complex mechanisms break. Simple furniture lasts. Rock and roll beds are cleverer than fixed beds but less reliable. Fold-out tables are fancier than camping tables but more things to fail.
8. Learn from others but design for yourself
Look at other layouts for inspiration. But your needs are unique. Don’t copy someone else’s layout exactly.
9. Budget 20% extra
Every build goes over budget. Materials cost more than planned. You’ll change things midway. Budget accordingly.
10. Accept imperfection
No layout is perfect. You’ll always find things you’d change. Build something good enough and start using it. You’ll learn more from living in it than planning it.
The Layout I’d Build If Starting Fresh Today
If I bought a new MWB Transit Custom tomorrow and was building from scratch, here’s exactly what I’d do:
Bed:
- Fixed across back (1.9m x 1.4m)
- Slat base (18mm ply + timber frame + slats)
- Front section bolted (4 bolts, removable)
- Back section screwed (permanent)
- Storage underneath (3 x 84L boxes)
- Cost: £180 + £285 mattress = £465
Kitchen:
- Along side, 90cm long
- Worktop: 90cm x 50cm (28mm beech)
- Two-burner gas hob
- 32cm round sink
- Cupboard underneath (60L)
- Drawer for utensils
- Overhead cupboard (25cm deep, 80cm long, 30cm high)
- Cost: £385
Seating:
- Simple L-bench (80cm x 40cm along side, 60cm x 40cm along back)
- Storage underneath (fridge 20L + electrical + misc)
- Cushions on top
- Cost: £95
Storage:
- Overhead above bed (1.8m x 35cm x 30cm deep)
- Underbed (organized boxes)
- Under-seating
- Kitchen cupboards
- Door pockets and hooks
- Cost: £120 (shelving, brackets, boxes, hooks)
Table:
- Removable camping table (stored under bed)
- Cost: £35
Electrical:
- 105Ah lithium battery
- DC-DC charger
- 200W solar
- LED lights
- USB sockets
- Cost: £1,170 (from previous guide)
Heating:
- Diesel heater
- Cost: £410 (from previous guide)
Plumbing:
- Jerry cans + Shurflo pump + sink + waste
- Cost: £241 (from previous guide)
Total furniture cost: £1,100 Total conversion cost (including electrical, heating, plumbing): £3,356 (plus insulation £635, plus van £12,000-£14,000)
Total project: £16,000-£18,000
Result: Comfortable year-round camper for two people, suitable for weekend trips to month-long tours, with flexibility for bikes when needed, and built to last.
Final Thoughts
Layout design is where your conversion succeeds or fails. Get it right and everything works smoothly. Get it wrong and you’ll spend months frustrated or years rebuilding.
I’ve been in both camps. Three redesigns taught me more than any book could.
The perfect layout doesn’t exist. The right layout for you depends on your life, your needs, your body, your hobbies, your budget, and your tolerance for compromise.
Start with cardboard boxes. Seriously. It’s the best £20 you’ll spend.
Think about function before aesthetics. Test everything before building. Plan for flexibility. Accept imperfection.
And when you cock it up (you probably will, at least a bit), don’t feel bad. Learn from it, fix it, and move on.
That’s what I did. Three times.
Now stop reading and go play with cardboard boxes in your van. The perfect layout is hiding in there somewhere.