Deciding on the right campervan steps is one of those seemingly small choices that ends up defining your daily life on the road. It’s less about fancy features and more about pure, practical convenience. The best option isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution; it hinges entirely on your van’s height, how you travel, and who’s climbing in and out every day. Understanding the process of choosing and fitting campervan steps can greatly enhance your experience.

Choosing the Right Steps for Your Campervan

A Guide to Choosing and Fitting Campervan Steps

Before you even think about drilling holes, you need to weigh up the real-world pros and cons of each type. What works brilliantly for a weekend warrior in a low-roof van will be a constant source of frustration for a family living full-time in a high-top Sprinter. This choice impacts everything from ground clearance on bumpy tracks to simply not having to think about it before you drive off.

Fixed vs Manual vs Electric Steps

When it comes to campervan steps, you’re looking at three main camps, each with its own very distinct personality.

• Fixed Steps: These are permanently mounted and don’t move. You’ll usually see them on larger motorhomes or as part of a custom build, sometimes even welded right into the van’s bodywork. While they’re incredibly sturdy, they absolutely kill your ground clearance, making them a terrible choice for anyone planning to venture off the tarmac. One bad bump and they’re toast.

• Manual Retractable Steps: This is the go-to middle ground for a reason. These steps are manually pulled or slid out from under the van. They offer a fantastic balance of reliability, simplicity, and cost. With no electronics to go wrong, they’re a rugged, dependable choice for off-grid adventurers.

• Electric Retractable Steps: This is the premium option, and honestly, it’s a game-changer for convenience. These steps automatically pop out when you open the sliding door and retract when you close it or turn on the ignition. A double electric step is a godsend for high-top vans, families with kids, or anyone with mobility issues.

My personal take? Manual steps are brilliantly simple, but the sheer convenience of an electric step—especially one that automatically retracts—is worth its weight in gold. It removes one more thing from your mental checklist before driving away. Forgetting to retract a manual step is a common, and very costly, mistake.

Making the Right Choice for Your Build

Your travel style is the single biggest factor here. If you’re constantly seeking out wild camping spots with uneven ground, a manual slide-out step offers rugged simplicity and the best possible ground clearance when it’s tucked away. No contest.

However, if your travels are mostly on campsites and you value ease of use above all else, an electric model is an investment you won’t regret.

The step itself is just one piece of the puzzle. Think about how its placement and design will work with your overall layout. A well-placed step can be integrated with other features, like underfloor storage, or become a seamless part of your wider van conversion furniture design. Considering this synergy early on is the key to a build that feels cohesive and genuinely functional.

To make things clearer, I’ve put together a quick comparison table. Use it to find the right fit and make sure your steps become a helpful upgrade, not a daily hassle.

Campervan Step Type Comparison

This table offers a quick reference to help you compare the most common campervan step options and find the best fit for your conversion.

Ultimately, the best choice is the one that makes your van life easier, safer, and less stressful. Choose wisely, and you’ll appreciate it every single time you step in and out of your home on wheels.

Laying the Groundwork for Your Campervan Step

Right, let’s get this sorted. Bolting a step onto your van is one of those jobs where an hour of prep work saves you a weekend of headaches. Get this stage wrong, and you’ll end up with a step that scrapes on speed bumps, punches a hole in your water tank, or just refuses to open because it’s jammed against the bodywork.

Getting the planning right means your new step will feel like it was always meant to be there, giving you safe, solid access every time.

Finding a Solid Mounting Point

First things first, get under the van. Your most important job is to find a mounting point that’s strong enough to take the strain. You’re looking for a beefy, structural part of the chassis or a reinforced floor member that can handle someone stomping on it day after day.

On vans like the Sprinter or Transit, the best spots are usually the main chassis rails that run the length of the vehicle. But you can’t just drill any old hole. You need a flat, clear section where the step’s mounting bracket can sit completely flush and secure.

My Two Cents: Whatever you do, never mount a step directly to the thin sheet metal of the van floor. It’s nowhere near strong enough to take the load. It will flex, groan, and eventually crack, leaving you with a useless step and a hole in your van. Always bolt through to a solid chassis member or add some serious reinforcement plates.

Spotting and Avoiding Obstructions

Once you’ve found a promising spot, it’s time to play detective. The underside of a van is a minefield of pipes, wires, and tanks, and plenty of projects have been torpedoed by an unseen obstacle. Grab a good torch and have a proper look for:

• Exhaust Systems: The exhaust gets incredibly hot. You need to give it plenty of clearance to avoid melting your step’s components or creating a serious fire risk.
• Wiring Looms: These are the van’s nervous system. Drilling through one is a guaranteed nightmare of electrical faults that are a pain to track down and fix.
• Brake and Fuel Lines: Nicking one of these is not just expensive, it’s downright dangerous. Trace their path carefully and give them a very wide berth.
• Water Tanks: Fresh and grey water tanks are common roadblocks. Make sure your chosen location doesn’t foul them or any of their fittings.

And don’t forget to think about how things move. A suspension arm might look clear when the van is parked, but it could easily smash into the step the first time you go over a bump.

The Cardboard Template Trick

Before you even think about drilling, make a template. Honestly, this is the most valuable five minutes you will spend on the entire job. Just grab an old cardboard box and cut out a piece that matches the exact dimensions of your step’s mounting plate and its retracted body.

Now, hold this cardboard mock-up in your chosen spot. It’s a dead-simple way to see any problems instantly. Does it sit flat? Does it really clear that wiring loom you spotted? And most importantly, when you pretend to deploy it, does it clear the sliding door sill and avoid clonking the bodywork?

A template gives you certainty before you make the first cut. It’s a hands-on reality check that’s far more reliable than relying on measurements alone and will save you from a costly, soul-destroying mistake.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Fitting Aftermarket Steps

Alright, you’ve done the planning, picked your step, and now it’s time to get your hands dirty. This is where the real work begins, and while it demands a bit of patience and precision, fitting a step is well within the reach of a competent DIYer. We’ll go through the physical install, focusing on getting it right so your step is secure, safe, and built to last.

Before you even think about crawling under the van, get all your kit together. Seriously, having everything you need within arm’s reach will save you a world of frustration. For a solid checklist of what you’ll need, have a look at our guide on the essential tools and materials for campervan conversions. No point starting the job if you’re missing a crucial drill bit.

Preparing for a Safe Installation

First things first: safety. Working under a vehicle is inherently risky, so don’t cut corners. Never, ever get under a van that’s only supported by a jack. Get it up on a proper set of axle stands, make sure they’re on solid, level ground, and chock the wheels that are still on the floor. It takes five extra minutes and could save your life.

Once the van is secure, get under there and give the spot you’ve chosen on the chassis a proper clean. A wire brush is your best friend here. You need to get rid of any caked-on mud, loose rust, or flaky old underseal. You’re aiming for a clean, bare metal surface so the mounting brackets can sit perfectly flush. This isn’t just for looks; it’s vital for a strong, stable fit.

As you can see, it’s all about the prep. Rushing the measurement and templating stages is a recipe for wonky steps and extra holes in your chassis.

Drilling and Securing the Step

With the area prepped, offer the step or its mounting brackets up to the chassis. Grab your cardboard template for one final check to confirm the position is spot on. Then, mark your drill points with a centre punch. Tapping a small indent for each hole prevents the drill bit from wandering off and scratching up your chassis when you start drilling.

Start with a small pilot hole for each bolt. It’s far more accurate and requires less force than trying to wrestle a massive drill bit through thick steel in one go. Once the pilot holes are in, you can work your way up, increasing the drill bit size until you hit the diameter you need for your mounting bolts.

Here’s a critical tip that so many people skip: rust-proofing your new holes. Every hole you drill into your van’s chassis is a potential rust problem just waiting to happen. After drilling, give the raw metal edges of each hole a thorough coat of a good quality, zinc-rich primer or a direct-to-metal paint. It’s a simple step that will add years to the life of your van and the installation.

Once the paint is dry, it’s time to bolt the step on. Use high-tensile steel bolts and, crucially, use large spreader plates or penny washers on the inside of the van floor or chassis. These are non-negotiable. They spread the load and stop the bolts from pulling through the metal under stress. Tighten everything down properly, ideally to the torque settings specified by the step manufacturer.

Wiring an Electric Campervan Step

If you splashed out on an electric model, the final job is the wiring. Don’t be intimidated by this; most electric steps run on a simple 12V circuit, and the logic is pretty straightforward.

You’ll need to run a fused power cable from your leisure battery to the step’s switch or control unit. Never, ever connect it to the starter battery unless you enjoy being stranded.

Here’s the typical sequence:

• Power In: Run a correctly sized wire from the positive terminal of your leisure battery, through a fuse, to your main control switch.
• Earth It: Find a clean, bare metal spot on the van’s chassis and securely attach the step’s negative (earth) wire to it. A dodgy earth is the number one cause of electrical gremlins.
• The Switch: Mount the control switch somewhere convenient, usually just inside the sliding door. This is where you’ll connect the power wire from the battery and the wire that runs out to the step’s motor.
• The Safety Relay: This is the clever bit. Most electric steps have a safety wire that connects to the vehicle’s ignition or the alternator D+ signal. This is what tells the step to automatically retract the second you start the engine, preventing that horrifying (and very expensive) mistake of driving off with it still down.

Make sure your wiring is tidy. Secure it away from anything that gets hot or moves, and use protective conduit where it passes through metal. A bit of care here will save you a world of headaches later on.

Building Your Own DIY Campervan Steps

There’s a certain satisfaction that comes from building something for your own van, a feeling you just don’t get from clicking ‘buy now’. If you’re nodding along, then rolling up your sleeves and building your own campervan steps is a project you’ll love.

Going the DIY route is the perfect way to get a solution that’s exactly right for your layout, blending pure function with the unique character of your build. It’s one of those projects that really gets to the creative heart of van life.

It all starts with picking your material. This one decision will set the tone for the whole job, defining the look, weight, and durability of your steps. Each option has its own quirks and rewards, so it’s worth having a proper think about it first.

Choosing Your DIY Materials

The material you choose is the foundation of the whole project. It dictates what tools you’ll be dragging out of the shed, the skills you’ll need to brush up on, and what the finished steps will look and feel like.

• Treated Timber: Wood is the go-to for most DIYers, and for good reason. It’s affordable, you can work it with standard tools most people already have, and it gives a warm, rustic look that fits right in with many van interiors. The absolute key here is to use pressure-treated or properly sealed timber to stop it from rotting in the relentless British weather.

• Lightweight Aluminium: If you’re counting every kilogram to stay under your payload limit, aluminium is a brilliant choice. It won’t rust and it’s surprisingly strong for how light it is. You will need a different set of tools, like a metal-cutting blade for your saw and maybe a rivet gun, but the result is a sleek, modern step that will last forever.

• Durable Steel: For sheer, brute strength, nothing beats steel. It’s heavier and definitely requires more skill to work with—we’re often talking welding or at least some basic metal fabrication. But if you’re building a heavy-duty, slide-out step that’s going to take a lifetime of abuse, a steel frame is the proper professional’s choice.

Building your own gear is a core part of the van life experience. You get to know your vehicle inside and out, which makes you far more self-reliant on the road. This hands-on approach is a massive confidence booster for tackling all sorts of other projects down the line.

Creative Design Ideas for DIY Steps

The best part about going DIY is that you’re not stuck with off-the-shelf designs. You can build something that’s perfectly suited to your needs, turning a simple step into a clever, multi-functional piece of your home on wheels.

One of the most popular and practical designs is the interior step box. At its simplest, it’s a sturdy wooden box you place just inside your sliding door. Its main job is to make getting in and out less of a leap, but its secret weapon is storage. Put a hinge on the lid and you’ve instantly created the perfect cubby for muddy shoes, levelling blocks, or the dog’s lead—keeping clutter out of your living space.

If you’d rather have an external solution, a manual slide-out step is a fantastic project. This usually involves building a solid frame from steel or aluminium that bolts directly to the chassis. The step itself, often a piece of tread plate or a solid wooden plank, sits on a pair of heavy-duty drawer runners. This design keeps the step tucked neatly away when you’re driving, so you don’t lose any ground clearance, while still being dead simple and reliable.

Essential Skills and Tools for the Job

Let’s be realistic about what it actually takes to build your own campervan steps. A successful project comes down to having the right gear and an honest idea of the skills you’ll need.

For a simple wooden step box, your toolkit is pretty straightforward:

• A decent saw (a hand saw will do, but a circular saw or jigsaw makes life easier)
• A drill with a good set of bits
• A measuring tape and a square
• Sandpaper and your choice of finish (paint, varnish, or oil)
• Strong wood glue and screws to pull it all together

Tackling a metal slide-out step, on the other hand, requires a more specialised setup. You’ll probably need an angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs, a power drill with bits designed for metal, and maybe even a welder. Precision is everything here, as your runners must be perfectly parallel for the step to slide in and out smoothly.

No matter what material you pick, the most important skill is patience. Measure twice (or three times!), cut once. For anyone who enjoys getting their hands dirty, exploring other DIY RV repair guides can be a really rewarding way to improve your van and learn new skills. Taking your time to get the joints snug or the welds clean will pay off with a finished product you can be proud of—a safe, functional, and truly personal addition to your home on wheels.

Safety Checks and UK Legal Requirements

Let’s get serious for a moment. Bolting aftermarket bits onto a vehicle is a big deal, and when it comes to campervan steps, getting the safety and legal side of things wrong isn’t just a slap on the wrist. It’s not about ticking boxes for the MOT tester; it’s about making sure your home on wheels doesn’t become a danger to you or anyone else on the road.

The UK van conversion scene has absolutely exploded. Between July 2020 and June 2021 alone, a staggering 16,608 brand new motorhomes hit the roads, registered with the DVLA. That’s a massive surge driven by people like us wanting a different way to travel. With this boom, it’s more important than ever that everyone building their own van knows the rules and builds safely.

The Golden Rule: Retract Before You Drive

This is the single most critical safety rule for any retractable campervan step: it must be fully stowed before the vehicle moves. Seriously. Driving with a step sticking out is a recipe for disaster. It can snag on a kerb, clip a road sign, or worse, another vehicle, causing catastrophic damage to your van and a potentially horrific accident.

With a manual step, this comes down to pure muscle memory – you have to remember to kick it back in every single time. Electric steps, on the other hand, are a fantastic safety net. Most are designed to be wired directly into the ignition, so they automatically retract the second you turn the key. A feature worth its weight in gold.

If you don’t have an ignition-linked system, rig up a simple but effective warning. A basic 12V buzzer or a bright LED on your dash, wired to a switch on the step mechanism, will give you an impossible-to-ignore reminder that your step is still out. It’s a tiny job that prevents a massive, expensive mistake.

Passing Your MOT With Aftermarket Steps

When it comes to the annual MOT, the inspector isn’t bothered about the brand of your step. Their focus is purely on safety and security. They’ll be giving it a good look over to make sure it’s roadworthy.

• Secure Fastening: The step has to be bolted rigidly to the van’s chassis or a proper structural point. The tester will physically grab it and check for any wobble, looseness, or signs that the mounting points are failing.
• No Dangerous Protrusions: When it’s tucked away, the step can’t have sharp edges or create an obvious hazard for pedestrians or cyclists. It needs to be folded up neatly under the vehicle’s sill.
• Operational Safety: For electric steps, they might check that it deploys and retracts correctly without catching on any part of the vehicle.

Basically, as long as your campervan steps are securely fitted and don’t create a hazard, they should sail through the MOT without an issue. For a deeper dive into the nitty-gritty, check out our complete guide on navigating MOT and servicing for campervans.

Understanding Load Ratings

Finally, let’s talk about strength. Every step, whether you’ve bought it or built it, needs to be strong enough to handle a person carrying a heavy bag or a box of supplies. A decent aftermarket step will have its maximum load capacity clearly stated – usually somewhere around 150kg to 200kg.

If you’re building your own step, you have to over-engineer it. Use beefy materials and solid fixings. Remember, people don’t always step down gently; they might jump out or land heavily, putting a massive dynamic load on the structure. Your step needs to handle that without so much as a creak.

Got Questions About Campervan Steps? We’ve Got Answers

Even the most meticulously planned conversion throws up questions. When it comes to fitting campervan steps, the same queries pop up time and time again. Here are some quick, no-nonsense answers based on years of fitting these things to all sorts of vans.

Best Steps for High-Top Vans

This is the big one: “What steps should I get for my Sprinter/Ducato?” The answer, almost without exception, is a double step.

The sills on these bigger vans sit a long way off the ground. A single step often leaves a drop that’s still uncomfortably high, turning a simple entry into an awkward clamber. It’s a daily annoyance and a genuine trip hazard waiting to happen.

A double step makes that transition feel completely natural and safe, bridging the gap perfectly. This is non-negotiable if you’re travelling with kids, pets, or anyone with dodgy knees. A manual double step is a solid choice, but an electric one is the ultimate upgrade for convenience and a bit of a wow factor.

Can I Avoid Drilling into My Van?

“Is there any way to fit steps without drilling holes in my chassis?” It’s a question that comes from a place of fear—the fear of making an irreversible change to your pride and joy.

While most permanent steps do need drilling to be properly secure, there are a couple of workarounds. Some manufacturers make vehicle-specific mounting brackets that cleverly use existing holes in the chassis. If you can find one for your van model, it’s a brilliant drill-free solution.

Your only truly non-invasive option is a high-quality freestanding step. But for anything that’s physically attached to the van, a robust, bolted connection to the main structure is the only way to go for safety.

Look, when you’re modifying a vehicle, safety trumps everything. A step that isn’t bolted securely to a structural part of the van is a serious accident waiting to happen. It’s far better to drill a few well-placed and properly rust-proofed holes than to risk an insecure fitting.

What Maintenance Do Campervan Steps Require?

Like any other moving part on your van, your steps are going to need a bit of TLC to keep them happy, especially with the glorious British weather doing its worst.

Regular cleaning is the most important job. Get the hose out and blast off the mud, grit, and road salt. That salty, gritty paste is incredibly corrosive and will seize up moving parts faster than you can say “rust.” For any retractable step, manual or electric, a bit of lubrication goes a long way.

• Hinges and Pivots: Give them a quick spray with a good quality silicone or lithium grease every few months. It keeps everything moving freely.
• Slides and Runners: Clean any crap out of the tracks and then apply a light coat of grease. This ensures they slide smoothly without that horrible grinding noise.
• Electrical Connections: On electric models, just have a quick look at the wiring connectors for any green or white powdery build-up (that’s corrosion). A dab of dielectric grease will help keep the moisture out.

Honestly, a few minutes of this twice a year will prevent 99% of common problems, like a step that stubbornly refuses to retract when you’re trying to make a quick getaway from a soggy campsite.

UK Campervan Step Costs

So, how much should you set aside for steps in the UK? The price can swing wildly depending on what you’re after.

A simple, portable plastic or metal step can be yours for as little as £20-£40. If you want a permanent manual step, like a slide-out or fold-down model, you should budget somewhere between £100 and £250.

Electric steps are the top end of the market. Prices for a single electric step start around £300, while the premium double electric models can easily sail past £600.

Fancy going the full DIY route and building your own? If you’ve already got the tools, you could probably get it done for under £100 in materials.

At The Feral Way, we believe in empowering you with the practical knowledge to build a campervan that’s safe, reliable, and perfectly suited to your adventures. Find more real-world guides and tested advice at https://www.theferalway.com.