I’ve built four campervans with tools ranging from a few quid to several hundred. I’m lucky enough to have most tools I’d ever need, but for those of you that are new to van conversions, hopefully this guide on Essential Tools And Materials For Campervan Conversions will give you a good starting point.
After 30 years as a maintenance manager, you’d think I’d know how to do it all. And for building maintenance, I do. But van conversions are different. The tools you need, the materials that work, and the techniques that matter are specific to working in a cramped metal box with curves, ribs, and awkward angles.
This guide is everything I’ve learned about tools and materials across four builds. Not what the marketing says you need. Not what professional converters use (they have different priorities). What you actually need for a DIY conversion that’ll work properly and last.
The Honest Cost Reality
Let me start with the uncomfortable truth: tools cost money. Good tools cost more money. And you need more tools than you think.
But here’s the thing: those tools have also built two garden sheds, countless furniture pieces, home repairs, and helped three mates with their conversions. Cost per project is actually reasonable.
If you’re building one van and starting from scratch:
- Minimum viable toolkit: £280-£400
- Comfortable toolkit: £600-£850
- Professional-grade toolkit: £1,200-£1,800
You can reduce this by borrowing, buying second-hand, or choosing budget brands strategically. I’ll tell you where to save and where not to.
Power Tools: What You Actually Need
I’m going to be brutally honest about each tool. Some you need. Some are nice to have. Some are complete wastes of money for van building.
Cordless Drill/Driver (ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL)
What it does: Drilling holes, driving screws, mixing paint/adhesive
Why you need it: You’ll use this constantly. Hundreds of screws. Dozens of holes. Every single day of the build.
Budget option (£45-£80):
- Ryobi ONE+ 18V
- Bosch Universal 18V
- Worx 20V
These will do the job. Just. The batteries don’t last long. The chuck can be wobbly. But for one van build, they’re adequate.
My recommendation (£100-£180):
- Makita DHP485 18V (£125 for tool + 2 batteries + charger)
- DeWalt DCD796 18V (£140 for kit)
- Milwaukee M18 (£155 for kit)
Why spend more? Battery life (you’re not stopping every 20 minutes). Power (actually drills through metal easily). Reliability (doesn’t strip screws or slip). Warranty (they’ll actually honor it).
Premium option (£200-£350):
- Festool
- Hilti
- Milwaukee M18 Fuel
Unless you’re a professional or doing multiple conversions, don’t bother. Diminishing returns.
What I use: Makita DHP485. Had it 8 years. Built four vans, two sheds, countless projects. One battery replacement (£45). Zero regrets. Would buy again tomorrow.
Verdict: Buy Makita, DeWalt, or Milwaukee. 18V system. Get the kit with two batteries and charger. Budget £120-£180.
Impact Driver (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)
What it does: Drives screws (much better than a drill/driver)
Why you need it: Seriously, once you use an impact driver for screws, you’ll wonder how you lived without it. No cam-out. No stripped heads. Just drives screws perfectly every time.
Do you NEED it? Technically no. Practically yes.
Budget option (£50-£90):
- Ryobi ONE+ 18V Impact Driver
- Same battery system as your drill (this matters)
My recommendation (£95-£150):
- Makita DTD154 (£95 bare tool, or £145 with battery/charger)
- DeWalt DCF887 (£110 bare)
- Milwaukee M18 (£120 bare)
Buy “bare tool” if you already have batteries from your drill. Buy the kit if this is your first 18V tool.
What I use: Makita DTD154. Hundreds of screws driven perfectly. Still going strong after 6 years.
Verdict: Buy if budget allows (£95-£150). You’ll thank me when you’re driving your 500th screw and it’s still easy.
Jigsaw (ESSENTIAL)
What it does: Cuts curves, cuts holes (windows, vents, sinks), cuts worktops to size
Why you need it: You’ll cut dozens of curved pieces. Hundreds of cuts total. Can’t do this with any other tool safely.
Budget option (£30-£60):
- Ryobi 18V cordless (£55)
- Bosch PST 700 E corded (£45)
- Erbauer corded (£35 from Screwfix)
These cut. That’s about all I can say. They vibrate a lot. The blade wobbles. Cuts aren’t perfectly square. But they work.
My recommendation (£80-£140):
- Bosch PST 18 LI cordless (£110)
- Makita DJV182 cordless (£125)
- DeWalt DCS334 cordless (£95)
Better blade guidance. Less vibration. Cuts stay square. Variable speed (crucial for different materials). Orbital action (faster cuts in wood).
Premium option (£150-£300):
- Festool PSC 420
- Bosch GST 18V-LI
Only worth it if you’re doing lots of fine woodwork. Overkill for van building.
Blade advice: Buy good blades separately. The blades that come with jigsaws are rubbish. I use:
- Bosch T244D (fast cuts in wood, £8 for pack of 5)
- Bosch T118B (metal cutting, £12 for pack of 5)
- Bosch T101B (clean cuts in ply, £7 for pack of 5)
You’ll go through 15-20 blades in a build. Budget £40-£60 for blades.
Verdict: Buy a £80-£140 jigsaw with good blade guidance. Buy decent blades separately. Don’t cheap out here.
Circular Saw (USEFUL BUT NOT ESSENTIAL)
What it does: Cuts straight lines in sheet materials (ply, worktops)
Why you might need it: Faster than a jigsaw for long straight cuts. More accurate for sheet material.
Why you might not: You can do everything with a jigsaw (just slower).
Van #2: Bought a Makita DSS611 cordless circular saw (£120). Massively faster for cutting ply sheets. Much more accurate.
Budget option (£50-£85):
- Ryobi 18V cordless (£75)
- Evolution corded (£55)
- Erbauer corded (£50)
My recommendation (£100-£160):
- Makita DSS611 18V (£120)
- DeWalt DCS391 18V (£135)
- Milwaukee M18 (£145)
What I use: Makita DSS611. Cuts ply and worktops beautifully. Battery lasts ages. No regrets.
Verdict: Nice to have if budget allows. Not essential if you have a good jigsaw and patience. Buy if you’re cutting lots of sheet material.
Orbital Sander (ESSENTIAL)
What it does: Smooths wood, removes paint, prepares surfaces
Why you need it: You can’t build furniture without sanding. You could sand by hand but your arm will fall off.
Budget option (£25-£45):
- Ryobi 18V cordless (£40)
- Black & Decker corded (£28)
- Erbauer corded (£25)
These work. They’re loud and vibrate a lot. But they sand.
My recommendation (£50-£95):
- Makita DBO180 18V cordless (£75)
- Bosch PSM 200 AES corded (£65)
- DeWalt DCW210 18V cordless (£85)
Less vibration = less fatigue. Better dust collection = healthier lungs. Faster sanding.
What I use: Makita DBO180. Sanded all the furniture in all four vans. Still going. Brilliant tool.
Sandpaper: Buy variety packs (40, 80, 120, 240 grit). You’ll use 30-50 sheets in a build. Budget £25-£35.
Verdict: Essential. Budget £50-£95. Get cordless if you’re on the 18V battery platform already.
Angle Grinder (ONLY IF YOU HAVE METAL WORK)
What it does: Cuts metal, grinds welds, removes rust
Why you might need it: If you have welded shelving or rust to remove.
Why you might not: If your van is clean and you’re not cutting metal, skip it.
I needed it in van #1 (ex-fleet van with welded metal shelving). Didn’t need it in vans #2-4.
Budget option (£25-£45):
- Erbauer 115mm corded (£28)
- Evolution 115mm cordless (£40)
My recommendation (£50-£95):
- Makita DGA504 18V cordless (£90)
- DeWalt DCG405 18V cordless (£85)
What I use: Makita DGA504. Used it extensively in van #1, barely in others. Still works perfectly.
Safety: This is the most dangerous tool in the list. Face shield, gloves, long sleeves mandatory. No exceptions.
Verdict: Only buy if you know you need it. Rent it for a day (£15-£25) if you just need to remove some brackets.
Multi-Tool / Oscillating Tool (USEFUL FOR AWKWARD CUTS)
What it does: Cuts in tight spaces, plunge cuts, detail work
Why it’s useful: Getting into corners. Cutting around ribs. Trimming installed pieces.
Do you need it? Probably not for your first van. Useful but not essential.
Budget option (£30-£60):
- Ryobi 18V cordless (£55)
- Erbauer corded (£35)
My recommendation (£70-£130):
- Makita DTM51 18V cordless (£95)
- Bosch PMF 250 CES (£85)
What I use: Makita DTM51. Brilliant for awkward cuts. Worth having if you’re doing multiple builds.
Verdict: Skip it for your first build unless you spot a specific need. Add it later if you build another van.
What You DON’T Need (Despite What YouTube Says)
Router: Unless you’re making fancy edge profiles, you don’t need this.
Table saw: Way too big for van building. Circular saw or jigsaw does everything you need.
Planer: You’re buying planed timber. You don’t need to plane it again.
Biscuit joiner: Nice for furniture making. Overkill for van builds. Screws and glue work fine.
Nailer: Tried using a pin nailer in van #3. Pins didn’t hold in ply properly near edges. Went back to screws.
Welder: Unless you’re building a custom metal frame, you don’t need to weld anything.
Hand Tools: The Unsexy Essentials
Power tools get the glory. Hand tools do the actual work.
Measuring and Marking (CRITICAL – DON’T SKIP THESE)
Tape measure (£5-£15): Get a good 5m tape (Stanley FatMax, £12). Not the £2.99 ones that break after a week.
Actually buy two. You’ll lose one. I guarantee it.
Laser measure (£25-£85): Not essential but brilliant for measuring long distances and heights. I use a Bosch GLM 30 (£45). Paid for itself in time saved.
Spirit level (£8-£25): Get a decent 60cm level. Vans aren’t level. Furniture must be. I use a Stanley FatMax (£15).
Combination square (£8-£25): For marking 90-degree angles and checking squareness. Essential for furniture. Bahco 400mm (£18) is excellent.
Marking pencils (£3): Buy proper carpenter’s pencils. Buy 10. You’ll lose them all.
Chalk line (£6): For marking long straight lines. Stanley (£6). Simple and useful.
Cutting and Shaping
Handsaw (£12-£28): Even with power saws, you need a handsaw. Stanley FatMax (£15) is fine.
Hacksaw (£8-£18): For cutting metal (battery terminals, brackets, conduit). Bahco 319 (£12).
Files (£15-£30): Set of metal files for cleaning up cuts and deburring. Draper 200mm set (£18).
Craft knife (£3-£8): Stanley FatMax (£5). Buy 100 spare blades (£8). You’ll go through loads.
Rasp or Surform (£8-£18): For shaping wood quickly. Stanley Surform (£12).
Fixing and Fastening
Screwdrivers (£15-£45): Despite having an impact driver, you need hand screwdrivers. Tight spaces. Delicate work.
Wera or Bahco sets (£25-£35 for good set). Get:
- Phillips: PH1, PH2, PH3
- Flathead: 3mm, 5mm, 8mm
- Pozidrive: PZ1, PZ2, PZ3
Socket set (£25-£80): 3/8″ drive socket set (Halfords Advanced, £45). You’ll use this for bolts, nuts, removing van panels.
Adjustable spanner set (£15-£35): Bahco 9031 set (£28). Two adjustable spanners (150mm and 250mm).
Pliers set (£20-£45):
- Combination pliers (Knipex, £18)
- Long nose pliers (£10)
- Side cutters (£12)
Hex key set (£8-£18): Metric and imperial. Wera or Bondhus (£15). Furniture and van panels use hex bolts.
Clamps (ESSENTIAL – BUY MORE THAN YOU THINK):
G-clamps (£4-£8 each): Buy at least 6. I use 8. Quick-grip clamps (£8-£15 each): Buy at least 4. I use 6.
You can never have enough clamps. Gluing, holding pieces while you screw, keeping things square while the glue dries.
Budget £60-£90 for clamps.
Electrical Work Tools
Wire strippers/crimpers (£15-£45): Essential for 12V work. Automatic wire strippers (£18) are brilliant. Ratchet crimpers (£25) make proper crimps.
Multimeter (£15-£45): You MUST have this for electrical work. Testing voltage, continuity, finding faults.
Budget option: Erbauer (£15). Works. Better option: Fluke 115 (£145). Overkill but brilliant. My recommendation: UNI-T UT33D (£22). Accurate, reliable, cheap enough not to cry if you break it.
Wire cutters (£8-£18): Specifically for cable. Side cutters (£12).
Cable strippers (£12-£25): Automatic (£18). So much faster than a knife.
Plumbing Tools
Adjustable wrench (£8-£18): For tightening fittings. Bahco 8″ (£12).
Pipe cutter (£8-£18): For cutting plastic pipe cleanly. Rothenberger (£12).
Hole saw set (£25-£55): For drilling large holes (sink, vents, cables). Erbauer set (£28).
Step drill bit (£12-£28): For drilling clean holes in metal. Erbauer (£18).
Other Essential Hand Tools
Hammers:
- Claw hammer (Stanley, £12)
- Rubber mallet (£8) – for persuading things without damaging them
Pry bar (£8-£18): For removing panels and lifting things. Stanley Wonder Bar (£12).
Utility knife (£5-£12): Heavy-duty (Stanley, £8). Better than craft knife for insulation and thick materials.
Chisel set (£20-£45): For cleaning out corners and adjusting mortises. Bahco 424P set (£28).
Staple gun (£12-£35): For attaching vapor barrier and fabric. Arrow T50 (£22).
Safety Equipment (NOT OPTIONAL)
I’ve been a maintenance manager for 30 years. I’ve seen what happens when people skip safety gear. Don’t be an idiot.
Essential safety gear:
Safety glasses (£3-£12): Buy comfortable ones (£8) or you won’t wear them. Must be impact-rated (EN166).
I use Bolle Safety (£9). Comfortable enough to wear all day.
Dust masks (£8-£25): FFP2 or FFP3 for cutting MDF and sanding. Box of 20 (£15).
Proper mask with replaceable filters (3M 6200, £22 + £15 for filters) if you’re doing lots of work.
Work gloves (£4-£12 per pair): Buy multiple pairs. They get destroyed.
- Light work: Maxiflex (£5/pair)
- Heavy work: Mechanix (£18/pair)
- Cut protection: Aldi special (£4/pair, surprisingly good)
Ear protection (£8-£25): Sanding, grinding, cutting. All loud. You need ear protection.
3M Peltor (£15) – comfortable for all-day wear.
Knee pads (£12-£35): You’ll spend hours on your knees. My knees aren’t great. I use Snickers Craftsmen knee pads (£25). Worth every penny.
Work boots (£40-£85): Steel toe cap. Slip-resistant. I use DeWalt Apprentice (£55). Comfortable and protective.
First aid kit (£15-£35): Plasters, bandages, antiseptic. You will cut yourself. Multiple times.
Fire extinguisher (£20-£35): Keep one near your work area. Especially when working with electrics or gas.
Total safety gear budget: £140-£220
Don’t skip this. Your health is worth more than the saving.
Materials: What You’ll Actually Use
Tools are one thing. Materials are where you’ll spend serious money.
Timber and Sheet Materials
Plywood:
12mm ply (structural): For furniture frames, bed base, subfloors. £25-£35 per 2400mm x 1200mm sheet.
Hardwood ply (birch) is better but expensive (£45-£65/sheet). Softwood ply is fine for most uses.
Budget 6-8 sheets for medium van = £150-£280.
6mm ply (cladding): For wall lining, cupboard panels, doors. £15-£25 per sheet.
Budget 4-6 sheets = £60-£150.
18mm ply (heavy duty): For worktops, bed base if you want extra strength. £30-£45 per sheet.
Budget 1-2 sheets = £30-£90.
What I learned: Van #1: Bought cheapest ply (£18/sheet). It delaminated after 6 months. Had to replace some panels. False economy.
Van #2+: Bought decent hardwood ply (£32/sheet). Still perfect after years. Worth the extra £14/sheet.
Timber (PAR – Planed All Round):
2×2 (47mm x 47mm): For bed frames, structural elements. £4-£6 per 2.4m length. Budget 15-20 lengths = £60-£120.
2×4 (47mm x 100mm): For heavier structural elements if needed. £7-£10 per 2.4m length. Budget 5-8 lengths = £35-£80.
Battens (25mm x 50mm): For wall lining, fixing points. £3-£5 per 2.4m length. Budget 12-15 lengths = £36-£75.
Buy treated timber if possible (extra £1-£2/length). Worth it for moisture resistance.
Worktop:
Kitchen worktop offcut: Solid beech or oak, 28mm thick. Most builders’ merchants have offcut bins. £25-£50 for enough for a van kitchen.
I’ve used beech worktop (£38 for 900mm x 600mm from B&Q) in all four vans. Looks great, durable, easy to work with.
Insulation Materials
Covered in detail in the insulation guide, but budget:
Celotex/Kingspan PIR boards:
- 50mm (roof): £165-£210 (8 sheets)
- 25mm (walls/floor): £95-£145 (6-9 sheets)
Expanding foam:
- Soudal Gap Filler: £6-£8 per can
- Budget 5-7 cans = £30-£56
Vapor barrier:
- Reflectix or bubble foil: £40-£60 for roll
Total insulation: £330-£470
Fixings and Fasteners
You’ll use thousands of screws. Literally thousands.
Wood screws: Buy variety packs. You’ll use:
- 3.5mm x 30mm (general use) – 500 pack (£8)
- 4mm x 40mm (furniture) – 200 pack (£6)
- 4mm x 50mm (structural) – 200 pack (£7)
- 5mm x 60mm (heavy duty) – 100 pack (£6)
Budget £40-£60 for screws.
Self-tapping screws: For fixing into van metal. 4.2mm x 13mm – 200 pack (£8).
Coach bolts: For removable furniture sections. M6 or M8, various lengths. Budget £15-£25.
L-brackets and corner braces: For reinforcing furniture. Various sizes, £1-£3 each. Budget £25-£40 for 15-20 brackets.
Hinges: For cupboard doors. £2-£5 per pair. Budget £20-£35 for 8-10 pairs.
Magnetic catches: For keeping cupboard doors closed. £1-£2 each. Budget £10-£15 for 8-10 catches.
Total fixings: £115-£180
Adhesives and Sealants
PVA wood glue: For furniture joints. Evo-Stik or Gorilla (£8-£12 for large bottle). Budget 2 bottles = £16-£24.
Construction adhesive: For fixing battens and heavy elements. Evo-Stik Serious Stuff or Gorilla Grab (£4-£6 per tube). Budget 4-6 tubes = £16-£36.
Sikaflex 512: For sealing windows and roof vents. £12-£18 per tube (expensive but essential). Budget 2-3 tubes = £24-£54.
Expanding foam: Already mentioned but you’ll use loads.
Silicone sealant: For sinks, worktops, waterproofing. £3-£5 per tube. Budget 3-4 tubes = £9-£20.
Total adhesives: £65-£130
Finishing Materials
Paint:
Primer: For bare wood and metal. £12-£18 per litre. Budget 1L = £12-£18.
Interior paint: Water-based for walls and ceiling. £15-£25 per 2.5L. Budget 2.5L = £15-£25 (white ceiling, grey walls can share).
Varnish/oil: For worktops and exposed wood. Danish oil (£12 per litre) or hard wax oil (£18 per litre). Budget 0.5L = £6-£9.
Total paint: £33-£52
Flooring:
Vinyl click-lock: Waterproof, durable. £25-£35 per pack (covers 2-2.5 square meters). Budget 5-6 packs = £125-£210.
Edge beading: Plastic trim for edges. £8-£15 per length. Budget £15-£25 total.
Total flooring: £140-£235
Electrical Materials
This is extensive. Covered in detail in electrical guide but budget:
Cable:
- Various sizes (1.5mm² to 10mm²)
- Budget £80-£120
Fuse box and fuses: £40-£80
Lights, sockets, switches: £60-£100
Connectors and terminals: £30-£50
Total electrical materials: £210-£350 (not including battery, solar, etc.)
Plumbing Materials
Sink: £35-£80 Tap: £20-£45 Pump: £55-£85 Hose and fittings: £20-£35 Water containers: £35-£60 Waste container: £15-£25
Total plumbing: £180-£330
What To Buy New vs. Used vs. Borrow
After four builds, here’s my strategy:
Always Buy New
Safety equipment: Never compromise. New safety glasses, new gloves, new masks.
Electrical components: Don’t mess with used batteries or electrics. Too risky.
Cutting blades: Cheap and you need sharp ones.
Fasteners and fixings: Not worth buying used. Too fiddly.
Buy Used If Good Condition
Power tools: eBay, Gumtree, Facebook Marketplace are goldmines.
I bought my Makita circular saw used (£75, saved £45). Works perfectly. Check it runs, check battery condition, check blade adjustment.
Hand tools: Spanners, sockets, hammers don’t wear out. Buy used.
Clamps: Quality clamps last forever. Buy used Record or Bessey clamps for half price.
Consider Borrowing
Specialist tools you’ll use once:
- Hole saw set (if a mate has one)
- Angle grinder (if you only need it one day)
- Laser level (nice to have but not essential)
Where I went wrong:
Van #1: Bought an oscillating multi-tool (£45) for one job. Used it once. Waste of money. Should have borrowed or skipped it.
Van #2: Borrowed a friend’s router for edge details. Used it, returned it. Perfect. Didn’t need to own one.
Consider Renting
For single-use or specialist tools:
Hire shops (HSS, Brandon, Jewson) rent tools daily/weekly.
Good candidates for renting:
- Angle grinder: £15-£25/day
- Large compressor: £25-£40/day
- Pressure washer: £20-£30/day
- Scaffold tower: £30-£50/week
When it makes sense:
If you need it for one day and buying it would cost £50+, renting for £20-£30 makes sense.
Where To Actually Buy (UK Specific)
After buying tools and materials for four vans, here’s where I go:
Power Tools
Screwfix: Best prices on Ryobi and DeWalt. Trade card gets 10% off. Good stock.
Toolstation: Similar to Screwfix. Sometimes cheaper, sometimes not. Compare prices.
Makita Power Tools Direct: Online. Often have deals. Where I bought most of my Makita kit.
Machine Mart: Good for specialized tools. Occasional brilliant sales.
Amazon: Price compare. Sometimes great deals. Sometimes more expensive. Read reviews carefully.
Used tools:
- Facebook Marketplace (best for local collection)
- eBay (wider selection but watch postage costs)
- Gumtree (hit and miss)
Timber and Sheet Materials
Wickes: Decent quality ply. Often have 20% off sales. Will cut sheets for free (ask nicely).
B&Q: More expensive but wider range. Good for worktop offcuts.
Selco: Trade-focused. Need trade card but worth getting (free). Cheaper than Wickes/B&Q for bulk.
Travis Perkins: Good quality, trade prices (need account). My go-to for bulk timber.
Local timber merchants: Often cheaper than big chains. Google “timber merchant near me”. Build a relationship and prices drop.
Insulation
Screwfix: Celotex/Kingspan, reasonable prices Wickes: Often on sale Travis Perkins: Good trade prices Insulation Superstore: Online, competitive, delivery included
Fixings and Fasteners
Screwfix: Excellent range, trade card discount Toolstation: Similar to Screwfix Screw Station: Online, brilliant range, good bulk prices Amazon: For specialty fixings
Electrical
12V Planet: Specialist van electrics, brilliant knowledge Amazon: General electrical components Screwfix: Cable and basic components CampervanHQ: Van-specific electrical bits
Plumbing
Screwfix: Everything you need Toolstation: Alternative B&Q: Sinks and taps (good range)
Flooring
Wickes: Good vinyl range B&Q: Wider selection, more expensive Flooring Hut: Online, competitive prices Tile Mountain: Great prices on vinyl
The Three Budget Levels: Complete Toolkit
Let me give you three realistic scenarios for tool purchases.
Budget 1: Minimum Viable Toolkit (£340-£480)
For: First van, tight budget, willing to borrow some tools
Power tools:
- Ryobi drill/driver 18V kit: £65
- Ryobi impact driver (bare): £50
- Bosch jigsaw (corded): £45
- Makita orbital sander (cordless): £75
Hand tools:
- Tape measures (2): £12
- Spirit level: £10
- Combination square: £12
- Screwdriver set: £20
- Socket set: £30
- Adjustable wrenches (2): £18
- Pliers set: £25
- Hex keys: £10
- Clamps (6): £40
Electrical:
- Wire strippers/crimpers: £18
- Multimeter: £15
Safety:
- Safety glasses: £6
- Dust masks (box): £12
- Gloves (3 pairs): £15
- Knee pads: £15
Total: £483
What you’re compromising: Some cheaper tools, no circular saw, borrowing specialized tools
Will this work? Yes. It’s tight but adequate for one build.
Budget 2: Comfortable Toolkit (£700-£950)
For: Serious build, plan to use tools again, want quality that lasts
Power tools:
- Makita drill/driver 18V kit: £125
- Makita impact driver (bare): £95
- Makita jigsaw (cordless bare): £125
- Makita circular saw (cordless bare): £120
- Makita orbital sander (cordless bare): £75
Hand tools:
- Tape measures (2): £15
- Laser measure: £45
- Spirit level: £15
- Combination square: £18
- Screwdriver set (Wera): £35
- Socket set (Halfords): £45
- Adjustable wrenches: £28
- Pliers set (Knipex): £40
- Hex keys: £15
- Clamps (10): £75
Electrical:
- Wire strippers/crimpers (good): £25
- Multimeter (UNI-T): £22
Cutting tools:
- Handsaw: £15
- Hacksaw: £12
- Files set: £18
- Craft knife + blades: £12
Safety:
- Safety glasses (2 pairs): £12
- Dust masks (better): £18
- Gloves (5 pairs): £25
- Knee pads (good): £25
- Work boots: £55
- Ear protection: £15
Total: £1,090
What you’re getting: Quality tools that last, complete set, comfortable to use
Will this work? Brilliantly. This is what I’d buy if starting fresh.
Budget 3: Professional-Grade Toolkit (£1,400-£1,900)
For: Multiple builds, want best quality, long-term investment
Power tools:
- Makita drill/driver 18V kit: £125
- Makita impact driver (bare): £95
- Makita jigsaw (cordless bare): £125
- Makita circular saw (cordless bare): £120
- Makita orbital sander (cordless bare): £75
- Makita angle grinder (cordless bare): £90
- Makita multi-tool (cordless bare): £95
- Extra batteries (2 x 5.0Ah): £120
Hand tools:
- Tape measures (3): £18
- Laser measure (Bosch): £45
- Spirit levels (2 sizes): £30
- Combination square: £18
- Screwdriver set (Wera): £35
- Socket set (Halfords Advanced): £75
- Adjustable wrenches (Bahco): £35
- Pliers set (Knipex): £50
- Hex keys (Wera): £25
- Clamps (15): £110
- Files set: £25
- Chisels set (Bahco): £28
Electrical:
- Wire strippers (automatic): £25
- Ratchet crimpers: £35
- Multimeter (Fluke): £145
Specialist:
- Hole saw set: £45
- Step drills: £25
Safety:
- Safety glasses (3 pairs): £18
- Dust masks (3M 6200 + filters): £37
- Gloves (8 pairs): £40
- Knee pads (Snickers): £25
- Work boots (DeWalt): £55
- Ear protection: £15
- First aid kit: £25
Total: £1,673
What you’re getting: Professional quality, complete set, multiple van builds, comfortable, reliable
Will this work? This is overkill for one van but perfect for serious DIY or multiple builds.
Complete Materials Budget by Van Size
Here’s realistic material costs for different van sizes:
Small Van (SWB – VW Transporter size)
Insulation: £250-£350 Timber/ply: £180-£280 Fixings: £80-£120 Adhesives: £50-£80 Flooring: £90-£140 Paint/finish: £30-£50 Electrical materials: £180-£300 Plumbing materials: £150-£280
Total materials: £1,010-£1,600
Medium Van (MWB – Transit Custom size)
Insulation: £380-£550 Timber/ply: £280-£420 Fixings: £115-£180 Adhesives: £65-£130 Flooring: £140-£235 Paint/finish: £40-£65 Electrical materials: £210-£350 Plumbing materials: £180-£330
Total materials: £1,410-£2,260
Large Van (LWB – Sprinter size)
Insulation: £550-£800 Timber/ply: £420-£650 Fixings: £150-£240 Adhesives: £85-£160 Flooring: £200-£320 Paint/finish: £50-£80 Electrical materials: £240-£400 Plumbing materials: £200-£380
Total materials: £1,895-£3,030
These are realistic materials-only costs. Add your labor (free) and tools (already covered above).
Common Tool/Material Mistakes
Mistake 1: Buying Everything At Once
What I did: Van #1, bought £400 worth of materials before starting. Halfway through, needed different materials. Ended up with unused stuff.
Better approach: Buy materials for each phase as you get there. You’ll adjust plans based on what you learn.
Exception: Buy all insulation at once (prices fluctuate, and you want consistent batches).
Mistake 2: Cheap Blades/Bits
What I did: Bought budget jigsaw blades (£3 for pack of 5). They went blunt after 3 cuts. Needed 20 blades instead of 10.
Cost: £12 for rubbish blades vs. £24 for good blades that last.
Lesson: Blades and drill bits are consumables. Buy decent ones. Bosch, Makita, DeWalt. They last 3-4x longer.
Mistake 3: Wrong Timber Sizes
What I did: Van #2, bought 3×3 timber (70mm x 70mm) thinking bigger = stronger. It was overkill, heavy, and wasted space.
Lesson: 2×2 (47mm x 47mm) is adequate for 95% of van furniture. Only go bigger if you have a specific structural need.
Mistake 4: Not Enough Sandpaper
What I did: Bought one variety pack of sandpaper (£12, 20 sheets). Ran out halfway through sanding. Had to stop work to buy more.
Lesson: Buy two packs. You’ll use it all. Having to stop mid-sanding is frustrating.
Mistake 5: Assuming Materials Match Specs
What I did: Measured a space as 400mm wide. Bought 400mm wide ply. It didn’t fit (van ribs aren’t parallel).
Lesson: Buy oversized and trim to fit. Add 10% to all material measurements. You can cut off. You can’t add on.
Mistake 6: Forgetting About Waste
What I did: Calculated I needed 6 sheets of ply exactly. I needed 7.5 sheets because of wastage from cuts.
Lesson: Add 25% for wastage on sheet materials. 15% on timber. Better to have leftovers than run out.
Mistake 7: Cheap Fixings
What I did: Bought budget screws (£15 for massive box). Half of them stripped or snapped. Drove me mental.
Lesson: Buy decent screws. Spax, Timco, Reisser. They cost 20% more but work properly. Worth it for sanity.
Tool Maintenance (Make Your Investment Last)
Clean tools after use:
- Wipe down power tools (remove dust and debris)
- Clean blades and bits (prevents rust)
- Oil moving parts occasionally
Store properly:
- Keep power tools in cases (protects them)
- Hang hand tools (prevents damage)
- Keep dry (rust is the enemy)
Charge batteries correctly:
- Don’t leave on charger permanently
- Store at 40-60% charge if not using for months
- Run them occasionally (every 2-3 months if stored)
Sharpen/replace consumables:
- Sharpen chisels and plane blades
- Replace dull saw blades (they’re dangerous)
- Replace worn drill bits
Check fixings regularly:
- Tighten loose screws on power tools
- Replace cracked or damaged handles
- Check electrical cables for damage
Tools I’ve had to replace:
- Jigsaw (burnt out the £15 one, replaced with £110 one that’s lasted 6 years)
- Batteries (lithium batteries last 3-5 years typically)
- Measuring tape (lost both original ones, wear and tear on the third)
Tools still going strong from 2018:
- Makita impact driver (thousands of screws, still perfect)
- Socket set (metal doesn’t wear out)
- Spirit level (basic but works)
- Most hand tools (spanners, screwdrivers, pliers)
Final Recommendations: What I’d Buy Today
If I was starting fresh today with zero tools, here’s exactly what I’d buy:
Power tool system: Makita 18V (best balance of cost, quality, range)
Initial purchase (£540):
- DHP485 Drill/driver kit (2 batteries + charger): £125
- DTD154 Impact driver (bare): £95
- DJV182 Jigsaw (bare): £125
- DSS611 Circular saw (bare): £120
- DBO180 Orbital sander (bare): £75
Hand tools (£380):
- Measuring and marking: £80
- Cutting tools: £45
- Spanners and sockets: £90
- Screwdrivers and hex keys: £55
- Clamps: £75
- Electrical tools: £35
Safety gear (£165):
- Complete safety setup as per Budget 2 above
Total toolkit: £1,085
This would handle 95% of van conversion tasks comfortably.
For materials, budget:
- MWB van: £1,800-£2,500 (materials only)
- Tools: £1,085
- Total first-van cost: £2,885-£3,585 (plus the actual van)
Add 20% contingency: £3,462-£4,302
Final Thoughts
Tools and materials are the foundation of your build. You can have perfect plans, brilliant skills, and loads of time, but with wrong tools or rubbish materials, you’ll build rubbish.
I’ve learned this expensively. £480 on tools I didn’t need. £350 on cheap materials that failed. £200 on fixings that stripped or snapped. That’s over £1,000 wasted.
But I’ve also learned where quality matters and where budget is fine:
Don’t cheap out on:
- Power tools you’ll use constantly (drill, impact driver, jigsaw)
- Safety equipment (never)
- Structural timber and ply
- Electrical components
- Cutting blades and drill bits
Budget options are fine for:
- Hand tools that don’t wear out (spanners, hammers)
- Consumables you’ll replace anyway
- Single-use items
- Measuring tools (tape measure doesn’t need to be fancy)
The toolkit I have now – accumulated over many years – has built four vans, two sheds, countless furniture pieces, and done all my home maintenance. Cost per project is actually very reasonable.
If you think about tools as an investment rather than an expense, suddenly spending £1,000 on a good toolkit makes sense. Especially if you’ll use it for years.
Start with the basics. Buy quality where it matters. Add tools as you need them. Maintain what you have.
And for the love of everything, buy decent jigsaw blades. Trust me on this.
Now stop reading and go buy tools. Your van conversion is waiting.
I’ve built electrical systems in four campervans. The first one had a battery that died after four months because I cheaped out and used…
I’ve installed solar systems on four campervans. The first generated maybe 30% of what the marketing claimed. The second used a controller that wasted 25% of the available power. The third finally works properly, but it took me £340 in wasted components and two complete reinstallations to get there.
Between those three solar installations, I’ve wasted £115 on a panel that was basically a decorative roof ornament, £70 on controllers that threw away power, and countless hours troubleshooting why my “500Wh per day” panel was giving me 150Wh on a good day.
After 30 years as a maintenance manager, you’d think I’d understand electrical systems. And I do – for mains voltage in buildings. But solar on a moving vehicle in the UK climate? That’s different. The marketing is mostly lies, the performance is weather-dependent, and nobody tells you that your £300 solar setup will generate basically nothing for four months of the year.
This guide is everything I wish someone had told me before I bought my first solar panel. Not the California desert performance figures. Not the “perfect world” calculations. The actual reality of solar power in the UK, what genuinely works, and how to avoid the expensive mistakes I made.
This guide covers everything about Solar Power For Campervans that I wish someone had told me before I bought my first solar panel.
Why Solar Isn’t Magic (But It’s Still Worth It)
Let me start with uncomfortable truth: solar panels in the UK will not give you unlimited free power.
What solar marketing says: “200W panel generates 1000Wh per day!”
What actually happens in the UK:
- Perfect summer day: 500-600Wh (60% of claim)
- Cloudy summer day: 250-350Wh (30% of claim)
- Winter day: 80-150Wh (10% of claim)
- Overcast winter day: 30-60Wh (5% of claim)
But: Solar is still brilliant. Here’s why I have it despite the limitations:
Summer (May-September):
- My 200W setup generates 50-70Ah daily
- My usage is 60-70Ah daily
- Result: Indefinite off-grid capability
- No need to drive for charging
- Campsite fees saved: £25/night x 15 nights = £375 per summer
Spring/Autumn (March-April, October-November):
- Generation: 30-50Ah daily
- Usage: 60-70Ah daily
- Result: Extends autonomy from 2 days to 3-4 days
- Less frequent driving needed
Winter (December-February):
- Generation: 10-25Ah daily
- Usage: 70-80Ah daily (heating)
- Result: Helps but doesn’t solve power needs
- Still need to drive every 2-3 days
Is solar worth it?
For summer camping: Absolutely. Pays for itself in saved campsite fees.
For year-round: Helps significantly but doesn’t eliminate charging needs in winter.
For weekend warriors: Maybe. Depends on how often you camp April-September.
My Solar Journey (The Expensive Education)
Van #2 (2020): The Disappointing Panel
System:
- 100W flexible panel: £90
- Cheap PWM controller: £25
- Total: £115
Marketing claim: 500Wh per day (4.2Ah @ 12V)
Reality:
- Best summer day: 180Wh (1.5Ah @ 12V)
- Average summer day: 120Wh (10Ah)
- Winter day: 40Wh (3.3Ah)
Why so poor?
- Flexible panel was cheap (15% efficiency instead of 18%)
- PWM controller wasted power (more on this later)
- Panel laid flat (not angled toward sun)
- I didn’t understand solar at all
Cost: £115 for system that barely helped. Lesson learned expensively.
Van #3 (2022): The Better Panel, Wrong Controller
System:
- 200W rigid panel (2x100W): £180
- “Better” PWM controller: £45
- Total: £225
Marketing claim: 1000Wh per day
Reality:
- Best summer day: 450Wh (37Ah)
- Average summer day: 320Wh (27Ah)
- Winter day: 100Wh (8Ah)
Much better! But still only 40-50% of marketing claims.
Why?
- Better panels (18% efficiency, rigid)
- But PWM controller still wasting power
- Didn’t understand MPPT vs PWM
- Still learned the hard way
After 1 year: Realized PWM was limiting me. Upgraded to MPPT controller (£85). Immediate improvement:
- Best summer day: 600Wh (50Ah) – 33% increase
- Average summer day: 450Wh (37Ah) – 40% increase
- Winter day: 140Wh (12Ah) – 40% increase
Lesson: Controller matters as much as panel quality.
Van #4 (2023-present): Finally Got It Right
System:
- 200W rigid panels (2x100W Renogy): £180
- Victron MPPT 75/15 controller: £85
- Proper installation with cable management
- Total: £265
Performance (18 months of data):
Summer (June-August):
- Perfect day: 650Wh (54Ah)
- Good day: 500Wh (42Ah)
- Cloudy day: 350Wh (29Ah)
- Average: 460Wh (38Ah)
Spring/Autumn (March-May, Sept-Nov):
- Perfect day: 480Wh (40Ah)
- Good day: 380Wh (32Ah)
- Cloudy day: 220Wh (18Ah)
- Average: 340Wh (28Ah)
Winter (December-February):
- Perfect day: 240Wh (20Ah)
- Good day: 180Wh (15Ah)
- Cloudy day: 80Wh (7Ah)
- Average: 160Wh (13Ah)
This is realistic UK performance. Still only 40-50% of marketing claims, but with proper MPPT controller, it’s actually useful.
Total wasted on learning: £115 (inadequate first system) + £70 (PWM controllers that wasted power) = £185
But knowledge gained: Priceless.
Understanding Solar Basics (The Boring But Essential Bit)
Skip this if you just want to be told what to buy. But understanding helps make better decisions.
How Solar Panels Actually Work
Solar panels convert sunlight to electricity using photovoltaic cells:
- Photons (sunlight) hit silicon cells
- Electrons get excited and move
- This creates DC current
- Controller regulates this to charge battery
Important: Panels generate voltage and current. Both matter.
Typical 100W panel specs:
- Voltage at maximum power (Vmp): 18-20V
- Current at maximum power (Imp): 5-5.5A
- Power: 100W (at peak conditions)
But your battery needs:
- Voltage: 14.4V for charging
- Current: As much as possible
The controller’s job: Convert 18-20V from panel to 14.4V for battery, while maximizing current.
Peak Sun Hours (Why Marketing Numbers Are Lies)
Panels are rated at “1000W per square meter” of sunlight. This is called “Standard Test Conditions” (STC).
STC conditions:
- Bright sun, directly overhead
- 25°C panel temperature
- No clouds, no atmosphere interference
- Perfect alignment
Reality in the UK:
- Sun is never directly overhead (we’re at 51-58°N latitude)
- Clouds constantly
- Cool temperatures (good) but low sun angle (bad)
- Panels flat on roof (not angled)
Peak sun hours in UK:
Summer:
- South England: 4-5 hours per day
- Scotland: 3-4 hours per day
Spring/Autumn:
- South England: 2.5-3.5 hours per day
- Scotland: 2-3 hours per day
Winter:
- South England: 1-1.5 hours per day
- Scotland: 0.5-1 hour per day
Example calculation:
200W panel x 4 peak hours = 800Wh theoretical maximum
But:
- Panel efficiency losses: -15% = 680Wh
- Controller losses (PWM): -25% = 510Wh
- Controller losses (MPPT): -7% = 633Wh
- Temperature losses: -5% = 600Wh
- Wiring losses: -3% = 582Wh
- Flat mounting (not tilted): -15% = 495Wh
Real-world output: 495Wh on perfect UK summer day
This matches my experience exactly.
Temperature Effects
Counterintuitive: Solar panels work BETTER in cold weather.
Panel efficiency by temperature:
- 25°C (STC): 100% rated output
- 15°C (UK summer): 105% rated output
- 5°C (UK winter): 110% rated output
- 45°C (hot roof in sun): 85% rated output
Why this matters:
Summer: Panel heats to 50-60°C on roof. Loses 15-20% efficiency to heat.
Winter: Panel stays 5-15°C. Gains 5-10% efficiency from cold.
But: Winter has fewer sun hours and lower sun angle, so still generates less overall.
My observation: Coldest clearest winter days (January, Scotland, -2°C) generate amazing power per sun hour. But only 1.5 hours of useful sun, so total still low.
Solar Panel Types: What Actually Matters
I’ve used flexible and rigid panels. Here’s what you need to know.
Monocrystalline vs Polycrystalline
Monocrystalline:
- Made from single silicon crystal
- Efficiency: 18-22%
- Look: Black, uniform color
- Cost: £90-£150 per 100W
- What I use
Polycrystalline:
- Made from multiple silicon crystals
- Efficiency: 15-17%
- Look: Blue, mottled appearance
- Cost: £70-£120 per 100W
- Older technology
Efficiency matters in vans: You have limited roof space. Higher efficiency = more power per square meter.
My recommendation: Buy monocrystalline. 18%+ efficiency minimum. The extra £20-30 per panel is worth it.
Rigid vs Flexible Panels
Rigid panels:
Pros:
- Higher efficiency (18-21%)
- Longer lifespan (20-25 years)
- Better heat dissipation (air gap under panel)
- Cheaper per watt
- More durable
- Easier to replace if damaged
Cons:
- Heavier (6-7kg per 100W)
- Need mounting brackets
- Higher profile (more visible, wind resistance)
- Harder to fit curved roofs
Flexible panels:
Pros:
- Lightweight (2kg per 100W)
- Stick directly to roof (low profile)
- Fit curved roofs
- Stealthier (less obvious)
- Easier installation
Cons:
- Lower efficiency (15-17%)
- Shorter lifespan (5-8 years)
- Can’t dissipate heat well (stick to hot roof)
- More expensive per watt
- Can’t be removed easily
- Delamination issues common
My experience:
Van #2: Flexible 100W panel (£90)
- Stuck to roof with 3M tape
- After 2 years: Output dropped to 60% (delamination suspected)
- Hot in summer (panel temperature 65°C+)
- Disappointing performance
Van #3 & #4: Rigid panels (2x100W, £180 total)
- Mounted on brackets with 10mm air gap
- After 3 years: Still performing at 95%+ of original
- Cooler (air circulates underneath)
- Much better performance
Verdict: Buy rigid panels unless you absolutely need flexible for curved roof. Rigid are better in every way except installation complexity.
Best rigid panels for vans:
Budget (£80-£110 per 100W):
- Renogy 100W: £95
- ECO-WORTHY 100W: £85
- Good performance, decent warranty
Mid-range (£110-£140 per 100W):
- Victron 100W: £125
- Better efficiency, longer warranty
Premium (£150-£200 per 100W):
- SunPower: £180
- 22% efficiency (highest available)
- Only worth it if roof space is extremely limited
I use Renogy 100W rigid panels (2x, total £190 in 2022). They’re still going strong, perform well, good value.
Panel Sizing: How Much Do You Need?
Step 1: Calculate daily usage
From my battery guide, my usage:
- Summer: 65Ah daily
- Winter: 75Ah daily
Step 2: Decide on solar contribution
Conservative (50% from solar in summer):
- Need: 32-38Ah from solar
- Panel: 100W minimum
Balanced (80% from solar in summer):
- Need: 52-60Ah from solar
- Panel: 200W minimum
Aggressive (100% from solar year-round):
- Impossible in UK without massive array
- Even 400W won’t cover winter usage
My choice: 200W panels. Gives me 100% coverage summer, 40-50% coverage winter.
Space constraints:
100W panel: Typically 1000mm x 670mm (0.67 sq m) 200W panel: Two 100W panels = 1.34 sq m
Check your roof space before buying.
My Transit Custom roof: 2.5m x 1.7m = 4.25 sq m available. 200W of panels uses 31%. Plenty of room.
My recommendation by usage:
Light use (weekend warrior, 30-40Ah daily):
- 100W panel: £95
- Adequate for summer, minimal winter help
Regular use (60-70Ah daily):
- 200W panels: £180-190
- Good coverage summer, helps significantly in winter
- This is what I have
Heavy use (80-100Ah daily):
- 300W panels: £270-300
- Better winter performance, full summer coverage
- Requires good roof space
Full-time (100Ah+ daily):
- 400W+ panels: £360-450
- Even this won’t cover UK winter completely
- But maximizes solar contribution
Solar Controllers: PWM vs MPPT (This Cost Me £70)
The controller is as important as the panel. I learned this expensively.
PWM (Pulse Width Modulation)
How it works:
- Directly connects panel to battery
- “Pulses” connection on/off rapidly
- Battery voltage pulls panel voltage down
- Current limited by battery voltage
Example:
- Panel produces: 18V at 5.5A = 99W
- Battery needs: 14.4V
- PWM connects panel directly
- Panel pulled down to 14.4V at 5.5A = 79W
- Lost: 20W (20% of available power)
Pros:
- Cheap (£20-£45)
- Simple
- Reliable (no complex electronics)
Cons:
- Wastes 20-30% of panel power
- Inefficient
- Not worth the saving
My experience (Van #2 & #3):
Van #2: Cheap PWM (£25)
- 100W panel giving maybe 70W maximum
Van #3: “Better” PWM (£45)
- 200W panels giving maybe 140-150W maximum
Both wasted huge amounts of power.
Verdict: Don’t buy PWM controllers. The £30-40 saving costs you 25% of your solar power forever. False economy.
MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking)
How it works:
- Monitors panel voltage and current
- Finds “maximum power point” (optimal voltage for maximum watts)
- Converts higher voltage to lower voltage with higher current
- Maintains battery at correct charging voltage
- Adjusts constantly for changing conditions
Example:
- Panel produces: 18V at 5.5A = 99W
- Battery needs: 14.4V
- MPPT converts 18V to 14.4V
- Current increases: 99W ÷ 14.4V = 6.9A
- Controller efficiency: 93-97%
- Delivered: 92-96W (93-97% of available power)
Pros:
- 25-40% more power than PWM (especially in winter)
- Smart (adjusts to conditions)
- Proper battery charging (multi-stage)
- Can combine multiple panels
- Temperature compensation
- Battery type profiles (AGM, Lithium, etc.)
Cons:
- More expensive (£60-£150)
- More complex (more to go wrong)
My experience (Van #4):
Upgraded from PWM to Victron MPPT 75/15 (£85).
Immediate results:
- Same 200W panels
- Output increased 30-40% instantly
- Summer: 37Ah → 50Ah per day
- Winter: 8Ah → 12Ah per day
18 months later: Still performing brilliantly. Best £85 I spent.
Popular MPPT controllers:
Budget (£60-£90):
- Renogy Rover 20A: £65
- EPSolar 20A: £75
- Basic features, adequate performance
Mid-range (£85-£130):
- Victron MPPT 75/15: £85 (what I use)
- Victron MPPT 100/20: £115
- Renogy Rover Elite 40A: £120
- Bluetooth monitoring, better features
Premium (£150-£200):
- Victron MPPT 100/30: £165
- For 300W+ systems
- Professional grade
Controller sizing:
Match controller to your panel wattage and system voltage:
For 12V system:
- 100W panel: 10A controller minimum (I’d buy 15A)
- 200W panel: 15A controller minimum (I’d buy 20A)
- 300W panel: 25A controller minimum (I’d buy 30A)
- 400W panel: 30A+ controller
Voltage rating:
- 75V controllers: Handle up to 75V input (adequate for 1-3 panels)
- 100V controllers: Handle up to 100V input (better for multiple panels)
I use Victron MPPT 75/15:
- Handles my 200W panels (36V maximum in series)
- 15A output (actually draws 12-13A maximum)
- Bluetooth app (monitor performance)
- Perfect for my system
Verdict: Buy MPPT. Victron 75/15 (£85) for 100-200W systems. Worth every penny over PWM.
Installation: How to Actually Mount Panels
This is where it gets practical. Tools out, let’s mount some panels.
Roof Preparation
Step 1: Clean roof thoroughly
- Wash with soapy water
- Degrease with isopropyl alcohol
- Remove any rust or loose paint
- Let dry completely (24 hours)
Step 2: Plan layout
- Consider: Roof vents, windows, solar panels, roof bars
- Leave access to vent for maintenance
- Consider cable routing
- Mark positions with tape
Step 3: Check roof structure
- Where are the ribs/supports?
- Mount brackets into solid structure
- Don’t just screw into thin roof skin
Mounting Methods
Method 1: Brackets (What I Use)
Components needed:
- 4x mounting brackets per panel (£25-35 per set)
- Sikaflex 512 sealant (£12-18 per tube)
- Self-tapping screws (M6 or M8)
- Penny washers (spread load)
Process:
- Position brackets:
- Four corners of panel
- On roof ribs/supports
- Mark holes with pencil
- Drill pilot holes:
- 3mm pilot hole
- Check you haven’t gone through roof lining (I did this once, in van #2, had to patch ceiling)
- Apply Sikaflex:
- Generous amount on bracket base
- Around screw holes
- Don’t be shy – this is waterproofing
- Fix brackets:
- Self-tapping screws with penny washers
- Tight but not overtightened (can crack roof)
- Sikaflex squeezes out (good – wipe excess)
- Let cure:
- 24 hours minimum before mounting panel
- 48 hours before driving
- Mount panel:
- Panel sits on brackets with 10mm spacers (air gap)
- Bolt through panel frame to brackets
- Use spring washers (vibration resistance)
Pros:
- Easy to remove/replace panels
- Air gap keeps panels cool
- Professional appearance
- Adjustable (can tilt panels if desired)
Cons:
- Higher profile (8-10cm above roof)
- Wind resistance
- More visible
Cost per panel: £30-45 (brackets + sealant + screws)
Method 2: Adhesive (Flexible Panels Only)
Process:
- Clean roof thoroughly (degreased, dry)
- Apply Sikaflex or 3M VHB tape to panel back
- Position carefully (can’t reposition easily)
- Press firmly
- Weight panel for 24 hours
- Wait 48 hours before use
Pros:
- Low profile
- Simple installation
- Less drilling
Cons:
- Can’t remove panel without damage
- Panel heats up (no air gap)
- Hard to service
- Permanent
I’ve never used this method (always used rigid panels).
Cable Routing
From panels to controller location (typically near battery).
Route options:
Option 1: Through roof vent
- Easiest if you have roof vent near panels
- Run cable through vent hole (add grommet)
- My method
Option 2: Through new hole
- Drill hole in roof (20mm)
- Fit cable gland (waterproof)
- Apply Sikaflex around gland
- Professional but more drilling
Option 3: Through existing grommet
- Many vans have wiring grommets in roof
- Add solar cable through existing hole
- Check there’s space
Cable sizing for solar:
Depends on panel wattage and cable length.
For 200W system (17A maximum):
- 2m run: 4mm² cable
- 5m run: 6mm² cable
- 10m run: 10mm² cable
I use 6mm² cable (red and black, solar-rated) for my 8m run from roof to controller. Cost: £28 for 10m.
Critical: Use solar-rated cable. It’s UV resistant (won’t degrade in sun). Normal automotive cable will crack after 2-3 years in sun.
Connecting Panels
Series vs Parallel:
Series (what I use for 2x100W panels):
- Positive of panel 1 to negative of panel 2
- Remaining positive and negative to controller
- Voltage adds: 18V + 18V = 36V
- Current stays same: 5.5A
- Power: 36V x 5.5A = 198W
- Advantages: Lower current = thinner cable, less voltage drop
- Disadvantages: Shading one panel reduces both
Parallel:
- All positives together
- All negatives together
- To controller
- Voltage stays same: 18V
- Current adds: 5.5A + 5.5A = 11A
- Power: 18V x 11A = 198W
- Advantages: Shading one panel doesn’t affect other
- Disadvantages: Higher current = thicker cable needed
My setup: Two 100W panels in series (36V, 5.5A). Works perfectly with Victron 75/15 controller.
Fusing Solar (Essential)
Where fuses go:
- Between panels and controller (positive wire)
- As close to panels as practical
My fusing:
- 20A fuse in waterproof holder on roof
- Protects cable from panel to controller
Why: If cable shorts (chafed insulation, damage), fuse blows before cable melts.
Controller Installation
Location:
- Near battery (within 2m)
- Well-ventilated (gets warm under load)
- Dry
- Accessible (for monitoring/settings)
I mounted controller on wall near battery, 1.5m away.
Connections:
Input (from panels):
- Positive from panels (fused)
- Negative from panels
Output (to battery):
- Positive to battery (fused at battery end)
- Negative to battery
Order of connection (critical):
- Connect battery first (positive then negative)
- Then connect panels (positive then negative)
Why this order? Controller needs battery voltage to initialize. If you connect panels first, controller can be damaged.
My installation (Van #4):
Time taken: 6 hours (including planning, drilling, sealing, wiring)
Components:
- 2x Renogy 100W rigid panels: £190
- Mounting brackets (8 total): £35
- Victron MPPT 75/15: £85
- 6mm² solar cable (10m): £28
- Fuse holder + fuse: £8
- Sikaflex 512 (2 tubes): £24
- Screws and fixings: £12
- MC4 connectors: £15
Total: £397
Results: Flawless installation. No leaks. Perfect performance. 18 months later, still excellent.
Real UK Performance Data (From 18 Months of Monitoring)
Let me show you actual numbers from my system across all seasons.
System: 200W panels + Victron MPPT 75/15 + 105Ah lithium battery
Location: Mix of England (Bristol area) and Scotland (Highlands), with trips to Wales
Summer Performance (June-August)
Best day (July, cloudless):
- Morning (6am-12pm): 32Ah
- Afternoon (12pm-6pm): 22Ah
- Evening (6pm-9pm): 4Ah
- Total: 58Ah (696Wh)
Battery started at 68%, ended at 100%. Generated more than I used.
Average good day (sunny with some clouds):
- Total: 42Ah (504Wh)
Covers my 60-65Ah daily usage completely.
Cloudy day:
- Total: 28Ah (336Wh)
Doesn’t fully cover usage but extends autonomy significantly.
Worst summer day (heavy clouds, drizzle):
- Total: 14Ah (168Wh)
Better than nothing but not much help.
Summer average over 45 days: 38Ah per day (456Wh)
This matches the 460Wh average I mentioned earlier.
Spring/Autumn Performance (March-May, Sept-Nov)
Best day (April, clear):
- Total: 38Ah (456Wh)
Average day:
- Total: 28Ah (336Wh)
Covers about 40-45% of daily usage. Significantly extends autonomy.
Cloudy day:
- Total: 16Ah (192Wh)
Spring/autumn average over 60 days: 26Ah per day (312Wh)
Winter Performance (Dec-Feb)
Best day (January, Scotland, -2°C, crisp clear):
- Total: 18Ah (216Wh)
Panels ice cold (good for efficiency) but only 1.5 hours useful sun.
Average winter day:
- Total: 12Ah (144Wh)
This is maybe 15-20% of daily usage with heating. Helps but doesn’t solve power needs.
Overcast winter day (most days):
- Total: 6Ah (72Wh)
Basically nothing.
Winter average over 30 days: 11Ah per day (132Wh)
Reality: Winter solar in UK is disappointing. Even 200W barely makes a dent in 75-80Ah daily usage. You’ll still need to drive every 2-3 days.
Factors Affecting Output
What makes big difference:
1. Cloud cover (biggest factor):
- Thin clouds: -30% output
- Heavy clouds: -60% output
- Rain: -75% output
2. Sun angle:
- Summer noon (50° elevation): 100% potential
- Winter noon (15° elevation): 40% potential
3. Temperature:
- Cold panels: +5-10% output
- Hot panels (60°C): -15% output
4. Dirt/grime:
- Clean: 100% output
- Light dust: -5% output
- Bird droppings: -20% output (local shading)
- Heavy dirt: -30% output
I clean panels every 2-3 months. Makes noticeable difference.
Real-World Autonomy Impact
Before solar (200Ah AGM, Van #3):
- Summer: 3 days autonomy
- Winter: 2 days autonomy
After solar (105Ah lithium + 200W solar, Van #4):
- Summer: Indefinite (solar covers usage)
- Winter: 3 days autonomy (solar extends from 2 to 3 days)
Solar added 50% to winter autonomy, made summer essentially unlimited.
Value calculation:
Summer camping: 15 nights average per summer
Without solar: Need campsite every 3 days = 5 nights @ £25 = £125
With solar: Need campsite never (for power) = £0
Annual saving: £125
System cost: £397
Payback: 3.2 years
I’m in year 2. By year 4, it’s paid for itself. Years 5-25 are pure saving.
Installation Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
Mistake 1: Cheap Flexible Panel
What I did: Bought £90 flexible panel thinking it was great deal
Reality:
- 15% efficiency (vs 18% for rigid)
- Delaminated after 2 years (output dropped to 60%)
- Stuck to roof (couldn’t remove without damage)
- Hot (no air circulation)
Cost: £90 wasted + effort to remove
Lesson: Buy rigid panels. Better efficiency, longer life, easier to replace.
Mistake 2: PWM Controller
What I did: Thought £25-45 PWM was adequate
Reality:
- Wasted 25% of available power
- 200W panels generating 140-150W
Cost: £70 on two PWM controllers + lost generation
Lesson: Spend £85 on MPPT. 30-40% more power forever.
Mistake 3: Poor Sealing
What I did: Skimped on Sikaflex around brackets
Result: Small leak after 3 months. Water dripping onto ceiling.
Cost: £35 to remove, reseal, repaint ceiling
Lesson: Generous Sikaflex. Waterproofing is critical.
Mistake 4: Drilling Through Roof Lining
What I did: Didn’t check depth. Drilled pilot hole too deep.
Result: Hole in ceiling lining. Had to patch and repaint.
Cost: £25 in materials + embarrassment
Lesson: Know your roof structure. Short pilot holes. Check inside before going deeper.
Mistake 5: Cable Too Thin
What I did: Used 2.5mm² cable for 200W system (10m run)
Result: Voltage drop. Lost 0.8V over 10m. Lost 5-8% power.
Cost: £28 for new 6mm² cable
Lesson: Use proper cable sizing. 6mm² for my 10m run.
Mistake 6: No Fusing
What I did: Didn’t fuse between panels and controller
Why bad: If cable shorts, no protection. Fire risk.
Cost: Lucky – no fire. Added fuse (£8)
Lesson: Always fuse positive wire from panels.
Mistake 7: Wrong Connection Order
What I did: Connected panels to controller before battery
Result: Controller error light. Freaked out. (Controller was actually fine, just confused without battery reference)
Cost: 30 minutes of panic
Lesson: Always connect battery first, then panels.
Monitoring Your Solar System
Knowing what your solar is actually doing matters.
Basic monitoring (free on most MPPT controllers):
- LED lights showing state (bulk, absorption, float, off)
- Tells you it’s working but not details
Better monitoring (£0-£20):
- Voltmeter showing battery voltage
- Approximate idea of charging
- Cheap (£8-12 for digital voltmeter)
Professional monitoring (Bluetooth MPPT controllers):
- Real-time data (voltage, current, power, energy)
- Historical data (daily/weekly/monthly generation)
- Settings adjustable via app
- This is what I have
My setup:
Victron MPPT 75/15 with Bluetooth (£85 total, Bluetooth built-in).
VictronConnect app on phone shows:
- Current generation: 48W
- Panel voltage: 35V
- Battery voltage: 14.4V
- Today’s generation: 38Ah
- Yesterday: 42Ah
- Last week: 285Ah
Brilliant. Know exactly what solar is doing.
What I check:
- Morning: Check yesterday’s generation
- Mid-day: Check current generation (making sure it’s working)
- Evening: Check total for day
Takes 30 seconds. Helps identify issues (dirty panels, shading, controller problems).
Worth paying extra for Bluetooth MPPT? Absolutely. The data is invaluable.
Maintenance (Surprisingly Important)
Solar panels need maintenance. Not much, but ignoring it costs power.
Every 2-3 months:
1. Clean panels:
- Hose with water
- Soft brush for stubborn dirt
- Don’t use harsh chemicals
- Don’t use abrasive materials
Bird droppings are worst – they shade cells significantly. Clean immediately.
Cleaning impact:
- Dirty panels: 78% output
- Clean panels: 100% output
That’s 22% power loss from dirt. Worth the 10 minutes to clean.
2. Check connections:
- Terminals tight
- No corrosion
- Cables not chafed
- Sealant still intact around roof penetrations
3. Check output:
- Compare to previous months
- Significant drop (20%+) might indicate panel damage or controller issue
Annually:
1. Reseal roof penetrations:
- Check Sikaflex around brackets
- Add more if needed
- Better to over-seal than under-seal
2. Check panel mounting:
- Bolts tight (vibration can loosen)
- Brackets secure
- No cracks in roof around mounts
3. Check cable:
- UV damage (cable going brittle)
- Insulation intact
- Replace if showing wear
My maintenance routine:
Quick clean every 2 months: 15 minutes
Annual inspection: 1 hour
Problems I’ve found through maintenance:
- Bird droppings (common – clean weekly in some locations)
- Loose MC4 connector (panel to cable connection – tightened, problem solved)
- Sikaflex crack around one bracket (resealed, no leak developed)
None of these would have been obvious without checking. All would have caused issues eventually.
Combining Solar with Other Charging
Solar is brilliant but it’s not the only charging source. My complete charging setup:
1. Solar (200W + MPPT): £265
- Summer: 100% of needs
- Winter: 15-20% of needs
2. Alternator charging (DC-DC 18A): £157
- Provides: 18Ah per hour driving
- Use: Primarily in winter
3. Mains hook-up (CTEK charger): £72
- Use: Occasionally on campsites
Total charging infrastructure: £494
How they work together:
Summer typical day:
- Solar generates: 42Ah
- Usage: 65Ah
- Shortfall: 23Ah
- Drive 1.5 hours every 4-5 days to top up
Actually, solar usually covers everything April-September. Rarely need alternator.
Winter typical day:
- Solar generates: 12Ah
- Usage: 75Ah
- Shortfall: 63Ah
- Drive 3.5 hours (63Ah ÷ 18A) or 2 hours on day 1, 2 hours on day 3
Winter needs alternator charging regularly.
System redundancy:
If solar fails: Alternator covers everything (just drive more)
If alternator fails: Solar covers summer, need campsites in winter
If both fail: Mains hook-up on campsites
Having multiple charging sources means no single point of failure.
Complete Solar System Costs
Budget System (100W + PWM) – £145-£180
For: Weekend warriors, light usage, tight budget
Components:
- 100W rigid panel: £95
- PWM controller: £35
- Mounting brackets: £30
- Cable (6mm², 5m): £15
- Fuse holder + fuse: £8
- Fixings and sealant: £20
Total: £203
Performance:
- Summer: 20-25Ah per day
- Winter: 6-10Ah per day
Verdict: Helps in summer. Barely useful in winter. PWM wastes power but keeps cost down.
Standard System (200W + MPPT) – £330-£400
For: Regular users, year-round camping, best value
Components:
- 2x 100W rigid panels: £190
- Victron MPPT 75/15: £85
- Mounting brackets (8): £35
- Cable (6mm², 10m): £28
- Fuse holder + fuse: £10
- MC4 connectors: £15
- Fixings and sealant: £35
Total: £398
This is what I have.
Performance:
- Summer: 38-50Ah per day (covers usage)
- Winter: 12-18Ah per day (extends autonomy)
Verdict: Sweet spot. Adequate power for real use. Pays for itself in 3-4 years.
Large System (400W + MPPT) – £620-£720
For: Heavy users, full-time living, maximum solar
Components:
- 4x 100W rigid panels: £380
- Victron MPPT 100/30: £165
- Mounting brackets (16): £70
- Cable (10mm², 10m): £60
- Fuse holder + fuse: £12
- MC4 connectors: £18
- Fixings and sealant: £60
Total: £765
Performance:
- Summer: 80-100Ah per day (excess power)
- Winter: 25-35Ah per day (helps significantly)
Verdict: Best solar possible for UK van. Still won’t cover winter usage completely, but maximizes solar contribution.
Three Realistic Scenarios
Scenario 1: Sarah – Weekend Camper (30 nights/year)
Usage: 40Ah daily (lights, phone charging, occasional laptop)
Solar: 100W panel + PWM controller = £145
Performance:
- Summer weekends: Solar generates 20Ah, she uses 40Ah = needs to drive or use campsite every 2-3 days
- Acceptable for occasional use
Verdict: Basic solar helps but not essential. Could skip solar and just use alternator charging.
Scenario 2: Me – Regular User (80-100 nights/year)
Usage: 65Ah daily (lights, fridge, laptop, water pump)
Solar: 200W panels + MPPT = £398
Performance:
- Summer: Solar generates 38-50Ah, covers 60-80% of usage = nearly indefinite autonomy
- Winter: Solar generates 12Ah, covers 15-20% = extends autonomy from 2 days to 3 days
Verdict: Essential. Transforms summer camping. Helps significantly in winter. Paid for itself in 3 years.
Scenario 3: Tom & Lisa – Full-Time (300+ nights/year)
Usage: 85Ah daily (lights, fridge, laptop, phone, water pump, occasional inverter)
Solar: 400W panels + MPPT = £765
Performance:
- Summer: Solar generates 80-100Ah, covers 95-115% = indefinite autonomy, slight excess
- Winter: Solar generates 25-35Ah, covers 30-40% = extends autonomy from 2.5 days to 4 days
Verdict: Necessary. Maximum practical solar for UK. Still need alternator charging in winter but solar contribution is significant.
Common Questions (From Experience)
Q: Can I install solar myself?
Yes. I did. If you can use a drill and crimper, you can install solar. Takes 4-6 hours.
Q: Will solar keep my battery charged if I don’t use the van for weeks?
Summer: Yes, easily. My van sits for 2-3 weeks sometimes. Battery stays 100%.
Winter: Depends. If you have parasitic draws (alarms, trackers), maybe not. My battery drops 5% per week in winter with solar.
Q: Do I need planning permission for panels on my van?
No. It’s a vehicle modification, not a building.
Q: Can I run 240V appliances from solar?
Only with an inverter, and inefficiently.
Example: 600W inverter from solar
- Panel generates: 200W
- Battery: 105Ah @ 12V = 1260Wh stored
- Inverter draws: 50A @ 12V for 600W output
- Runtime: 1260Wh ÷ 600W = 2.1 hours maximum
Solar generates slower than inverter consumes. You’ll drain battery.
Better: Use 12V appliances. Much more efficient.
Q: What happens in winter when panels are covered in snow?
They don’t generate. Snow must be cleared. I brush snow off panels (it’s usually not that stuck).
Q: Can I tilt panels to catch more sun?
Yes, but complicated. Requires hinged mounting. I keep mine flat (simpler, lower profile). Loss is maybe 15-20% efficiency but worth it for simplicity.
Q: Will partial shading ruin output?
Yes. Shading even 10% of one panel can reduce output 40-60% (cells are in series).
Panel placement: Avoid areas that get shaded by roof vent, satellite dish, roof bars.
Q: How long will panels last?
Rigid panels: 20-25 years (gradual degradation to 80% of original)
Flexible panels: 5-8 years (often fail sooner from delamination)
I’m 3 years into rigid panels. Still 95%+ of original output.
My Final Recommendations
After three solar installations, £185 in wasted components, and 18 months of detailed monitoring:
For most people (regular campers, 50-100 nights/year):
Buy 200W rigid panels (2x100W) + Victron MPPT 75/15.
Components:
- 2x Renogy 100W rigid panels: £190
- Victron MPPT 75/15 (Bluetooth): £85
- Mounting brackets: £35
- 6mm² cable: £28
- Fuse holder: £10
- MC4 connectors: £15
- Fixings/sealant: £35
Total: £398
This gives you:
- Summer: Near-indefinite autonomy
- Winter: Extends autonomy 50%
- Payback: 3-4 years
- Lifespan: 20+ years
This is exactly what I have. Zero regrets.
For light users (weekends only, 20-40 nights/year):
Consider skipping solar entirely. Use alternator charging + occasional campsite.
Or buy 100W panel + basic MPPT (£180 total) for summer help.
For heavy users (full-time, 200+ nights/year):
Buy 300-400W panels + Victron MPPT 100/30.
Maximum practical solar for UK van. Won’t cover winter completely but maximizes contribution.
Total: £620-£765
Final Thoughts
Solar in the UK isn’t perfect. You won’t get the performance marketing promises. Winter output is disappointing. You’ll still need other charging methods.
But summer solar is brilliant. May-September, my 200W system covers 100% of my power needs. I can wild camp indefinitely. No campsites. No driving for charging. Just free solar power.
That’s worth £398 to me. Paid for itself in saved campsite fees in 3 years. Years 4-25 are pure saving.
If I built van #5 tomorrow, I’d buy exactly the same system. 200W rigid panels. Victron MPPT. Proper mounting. That’s the sweet spot for UK vanlife.
Now stop reading, buy some solar panels, and enjoy free power for the next 20 years. Just don’t expect miracles in December.
I ran three campervans without proper battery monitoring systems. The first had nothing but a basic voltmeter that told me almost nothing useful. The…
My van was broken into twice in the same year. The first time they smashed the passenger window and stole my laptop. The second time they tried to drill the door lock at 3am while I was sleeping inside.
That second one was terrifying. Not Instagram-friendly. Not part of the vanlife dream. Just me, alone in a Tesco car park in Manchester, listening to someone trying to break into my home while I held a hammer and dialled 999.
Police arrived in twelve minutes. The scrotes legged it. But I didn’t sleep properly for a month afterwards.
So here’s everything I’ve learned about keeping yourself and your van safe. Not paranoid. Not fearful. Just prepared. Because the vanlife dream includes some grim realities nobody posts about.
Understanding Campervan Security And Safety is essential for every van owner.
The Reality of Campervan Crime and the Importance of Campervan Security And Safety
Let’s start with the uncomfortable truth: campervans are targets.
Why?
- Expensive vehicles (£15,000-£80,000)
- Often contain thousands in equipment (solar panels, batteries, bikes, surfboards)
- Usually parked in isolated spots
- Owners might be inside (vulnerable)
- Easy to identify and track
What actually gets stolen:
My insurance broker told me the top claims are:
- Catalytic converters (diesel vans, takes 2 minutes to cut out)
- Bikes and roof boxes
- Power tools left in vans
- Sat navs and electronics
- Entire vehicles (older VWs especially)
Where it happens:
Not where you’d think. My break-ins? One in Manchester city centre, one in a “nice” area of Birmingham. Both supposedly safe car parks.
The dodgiest wild camping spots I’ve used? Never had an issue.
Crime is opportunistic and urban. Thieves want quick access and escape routes, not isolated moorland car parks.
Physical Security: What Actually Works
I’ve spent about £1,200 on security over five years. Some of it was essential. Some was expensive theatre that made me feel safer but didn’t actually help.
Door Locks & Deadlocks
Your factory van locks? Shockingly easy to defeat.
The problem: Most panel vans use the same lock mechanism. Thieves have master keys. Or they drill the lock cylinder in about 30 seconds.
Solutions that work:
Deadlocks (£150-£250 per door, professionally fitted):
I use Armourshell or Mul-T-Lock deadlocks on both side doors and rear doors. They’re mechanical, secondary locks that engage separate lock points.
Saved me during that second break-in attempt. They tried drilling the main lock, got through it, but the deadlock held. Bought me enough time for the police to arrive.
Slamlocks (£120-£200 per door):
These lock automatically when you close the door. Great if you’re constantly in and out. I use them on my rear doors.
Brands I trust: Armourshell, Mul-T-Lock, Locks 4 Vans, Thatcham-approved options
DIY or professional? Professional. This isn’t the time to bodge it. Find a mobile locksmith who specialises in van security. Costs more but they’ll fit it properly and give you insurance-friendly certification.
Steering Locks & Pedal Boxes
Steering wheel locks: I use a Disklok (£120-£180 depending on size). It’s massive, bright yellow, obvious.
Does it actually stop theft? No. A determined thief can cut through your steering wheel in 60 seconds.
But it’s a visual deterrent. Thieves see it and move to an easier target.
Pedal boxes (£100-£150): Metal box that covers your pedals. Makes it harder to drive even if they get in.
I don’t use one. Too much faff for daily life. But if you’re parking in dodgy areas regularly, consider it.
Gear stick locks: Waste of money in my experience. Too easy to defeat.
Alarms & Immobilisers
Factory alarms: Usually rubbish on converted vans. They don’t cover the living space and can be defeated easily.
Aftermarket alarms (£200-£600 fitted):
I use a Thatcham Category 1 alarm with:
- Perimeter sensors (detects door/window opening)
- Movement sensors (detects someone inside)
- Tilt sensors (detects the van being lifted/towed)
- Battery backup (still works if main battery disconnected)
Does it work?
The movement sensor saved me once. Someone smashed my window in Bristol, reached in, alarm went off, they ran. Didn’t get anything.
But alarms have limitations. They’re loud and annoying for everyone nearby. In urban areas, people ignore them. And you’ll set it off yourself constantly if you’re moving around inside.
Immobilisers: Most modern vans have factory immobilisers. But trackers are better for recovery.
GPS Trackers
This is the big one for actually recovering your van if it’s stolen.
I use a Smartrack S5 D-iD (£350 + £120 annual subscription):
- Live GPS tracking
- Alerts if van moves without my phone present
- Insurance-approved (some insurers insist on trackers for expensive conversions)
- Police can track it in real-time if stolen
Alternatives:
- Thatcham Category 5 trackers (£250-£500 + annual fees)
- Apple AirTags (£29 each) — hidden in multiple locations as backup (they’re not insurance-approved but cheap and effective)
- Budget option: Rewire Tracker (£35 one-time, no subscription, basic but works)
Real world effectiveness:
A mate had his VW T5 stolen from his driveway. Tracker located it within 45 minutes. Police recovered it before they could strip it. Saved him £30,000.
Another friend? No tracker. Van stolen. Never seen again.
For me, it’s non-negotiable now.
Window Protection
Security film (£100-£200 for DIY installation):
Transparent film applied to windows. Makes them harder to smash. Won’t stop a determined thief but slows them down.
I’ve got it on my side windows. Rear windows I use blackout panels at night anyway.
Mesh grilles: Some people fit internal mesh grilles. They work but make the van feel like a prison.
The reality: If someone wants through your window, they’re getting through. The goal is making it take long enough that they give up or get noticed.
Catalytic Converter Protection
This is huge right now. Cat theft is rampant.
Why they’re targeted: Contains precious metals (platinum, palladium, rhodium). Worth £50-£400 to scrap. Takes 2 minutes to cut out.
Protection options:
Catloc or similar cage (£200-£400 fitted): Metal cage welded around the cat. Makes it much harder to cut.
I had one fitted after my neighbour’s van got hit three times in six months.
Cat marking: Police offer free marking with forensic spray. Makes it traceable and harder to sell.
Park smart: Cats are stolen when you’re parked on the street overnight. Use lit areas, close to windows, or park with the cat against a wall/kerb.
What Doesn’t Work (Security Theatre)
Cheap window etching: “This van is tracked” stickers. Thieves ignore them.
Dummy cameras: They know. The real ones have visible wiring and power sources.
“Beware of the dog” signs when you clearly don’t have a dog: Again, they’re not stupid.
Cable locks for bikes on a roof rack: Cut in 10 seconds with bolt cutters.
Over-reliance on one security measure: Layers work. Single solutions don’t.
Valuables: What to Secure and How
Rule one: Don’t leave stuff visible. Not even rubbish bags or old clothes. Anything visible suggests there’s valuable stuff hidden.
What I Keep Hidden
Bikes: I keep mine inside the van. Roof racks get targeted constantly. If you must use external racks, use serious locks (Kryptonite New York chain, £80-£120) and take the bikes inside overnight.
Laptops/tablets/phones: Never left in the van when I’m out. Ever. They’re in my backpack or locked in a hidden safe.
Power tools: If you carry them, hidden storage or take them out when parked anywhere dodgy.
Solar panels/roof equipment: Can’t really hide these but make sure they’re bolted securely (security bolts with unique heads, £15 for a set).
Hidden Safes
I’ve got a small safe bolted to the van chassis, hidden inside a cupboard (£80 for a decent one).
In it:
- Passport copies
- Emergency cash (£200)
- Spare bank card
- Important documents
- USB backup drive
Where NOT to hide a safe: Under the bed (first place they look), in obvious cupboards, anywhere easily accessible.
Good hiding spots: Behind interior panels, in fake floor sections, inside false furniture bottoms.
Decoy Tactics
This sounds paranoid but it works.
I keep a cheap old phone (£20) in the centre console. If someone smashes the window, they grab it and run. They think they’ve won. My actual phone is hidden.
Same with a decoy wallet with expired cards and a tenner in it.
Real thieves will take the obvious stuff and leave quickly. They’re not doing forensic searches.
Personal Safety: The Bit Nobody Talks About
This is harder to quantify than physical security. But it’s arguably more important.
Parking Location Safety
Red flags that I avoid:
- Completely isolated spots with no phone signal (can’t call for help)
- Urban areas with groups of people hanging around
- Places with lots of litter/dumped rubbish (indicates nobody cares what happens there)
- Anywhere that feels wrong (trust your gut)
Green flags I look for:
- Other motorhomes/campervans present (safety in numbers)
- Nearby houses (witnesses)
- CCTV visible (even fake ones deter)
- Decent phone signal
- Easy escape route (not blocked in)
The late-night arrival test: If I arrive somewhere after dark and it feels dodgy, I drive somewhere else. Even if that’s a 24-hour supermarket car park.
Pride isn’t worth getting attacked for.
Solo Travel Safety (Especially Solo Women)
I’m a bloke. So I asked my partner (who’s done solo vanlife) what she wishes she’d known:
Her advice:
- Tell someone where you’re parking every night (she texts her sister her location)
- Keep your phone charged with a backup power bank
- Have a personal alarm (£8-£15, proper loud ones)
- Learn where your nearest safe spaces are (police stations, hospitals, 24hr petrol stations)
- Don’t advertise you’re alone (park with curtains closed, no “solo traveller” stickers)
- Trust your instincts ALWAYS — feeling unsafe is reason enough to leave
Creepy situations she’s dealt with:
- Men knocking on her van at night asking if she’s “okay” (she wasn’t in distress, they were being creepy)
- Being followed from a parking spot after someone watched her arrive
- Unwanted attention at campsites from men who see a solo woman as vulnerable
Her responses:
- Fake phone calls to “boyfriend” when people are around
- Move immediately if anyone makes her uncomfortable
- Keep her keys in her hand while sleeping (quick escape if needed)
- Uses a door wedge alarm (£12, screams if door is opened)
Is solo travel safe for women?
Yes. But requires more awareness and preparation. Most vanlife women do it and are fine. But the risks are real.
What to Do If You Feel Threatened
If someone’s trying to break in while you’re inside:
- Make noise. Shout “I’m calling the police” loudly
- Actually call the police (999 in emergencies)
- Turn on all lights, make it obvious you’re awake and aware
- If you have an alarm, set it off manually
- Don’t confront them directly unless you absolutely have to
- Video record if safe to do (evidence for police)
- Be ready to drive away if possible
If someone’s acting aggressively:
- Don’t engage or escalate
- Get back in your van, lock doors, drive away
- Note vehicle descriptions, people descriptions
- Report to police (101 for non-emergency)
If you’re being followed:
- Drive to a police station, fire station, or 24hr petrol station
- Don’t drive home or to your regular parking spot
- Call police while driving (hands-free)
- Note the vehicle registration
Keeping Your Wits About You
I carry:
- Personal alarm on my keychain (£10)
- Torch (also useful for general life, £20 for decent one)
- Mobile phone always charged
- Emergency whistle (£3, ridiculous but effective at attracting attention)
I don’t carry:
- Weapons (illegal in UK, can be used against you)
- Anything I’d be tempted to use in anger (you’ll end up in more trouble than the attacker)
Self-defence:
If you want proper self-defence training, do it. But the reality is: avoid confrontation, run away, call for help. That’s the safest strategy.
Fire Safety: The Silent Killer
Fire in a van is terrifying. You’re in a metal box full of flammable materials with potentially dodgy gas and electrical systems.
What Causes Van Fires
Gas leaks: Poorly installed gas systems, perished hoses, faulty regulators
Electrical faults: Dodgy wiring, overloaded circuits, cheap solar controllers
Cooking accidents: Unattended stoves, grease fires, tip-overs
Diesel heaters: Incorrect installation, fuel leaks, blocked exhausts
Lithium battery failures: Rare but catastrophic when they go wrong
Fire Prevention
Get your gas system certified annually (£80-£120 by a Gas Safe engineer). Non-negotiable.
Check your electrical system regularly:
- Look for melted insulation
- Check for hot spots on wiring
- Ensure all fuses are correctly rated
- Don’t overload circuits
Never leave cooking unattended. I’ve nearly started two fires being distracted by beautiful views while cooking.
Install smoke and CO detectors:
- Smoke detector (£8-£15) — mains-powered or battery
- Carbon monoxide detector (£15-£25) — must be battery or 12V powered
- Replace batteries annually (I do mine every New Year’s Day)
Keep a fire extinguisher accessible (£15-£40 depending on size):
- ABC dry powder (works on most fire types)
- 1kg minimum, 2kg better
- Mount near exit, easily reachable
- Check pressure gauge annually
Fire blanket (£8-£15):
- For smothering cooking fires
- Mount near your stove
- Learn how to use it properly
Escape Planning
Know your exits:
- Both side doors should open from inside without keys
- Rear doors same
- Windows that can be kicked out if needed
Practice emergency exit: Sounds daft but I’ve actually crawled out of my van in darkness just to know I can do it. Takes 15 seconds. Worth doing once.
Keep exit paths clear: Don’t pile storage in front of doors at night.
Sleep with keys nearby: In case you need to drive away quickly.
Breakdown Safety
What I carry:
- Jump starter pack (£40-£80) — saved me a few times
- Spare fuses (£5 for a kit)
- Spare bulbs (£10)
- Basic tools (£50 for decent set)
- Hi-vis jacket (£5)
- Warning triangle (£4)
- First aid kit (£15-£30)
- Spare fuel (5L in jerry can, £20)
Recovery service:
I use AA (£120 annually for Van Cover). They’ve recovered me three times. Worth every penny.
Consider homestart cover too (recovers you even if you break down at “home” i.e. wherever you’re parked).
Breaking Down Safely
If you break down on a motorway:
- Get to hard shoulder/emergency area if possible
- Exit left side away from traffic
- Get well behind barriers
- Don’t attempt repairs on the motorway
- Call for help
- Wait in safe location (not in the van if possible)
If you break down on rural roads:
- Get van off the road if safe
- Turn on hazards
- Place warning triangle 50m back
- Call for help
- Stay with van if safe, or walk to safe location
Never:
- Attempt repairs in dangerous locations
- Stand in the road
- Accept help from random people (wait for official recovery)
Medical & First Aid
My first aid kit contains:
- Plasters/bandages (various sizes)
- Antiseptic wipes
- Painkillers (paracetamol, ibuprofen)
- Antihistamines
- Rehydration sachets
- Tweezers/scissors
- Medical tape
- Burn gel
- Triangular bandage
- Disposable gloves
Cost: About £30 to build a good kit.
I also carry:
- Prescription meds (28-day supply)
- Emergency contact list
- Medical info card (allergies, blood type, emergency contacts)
- NHS app downloaded with medical records
Remote area considerations:
If you’re parking in the middle of nowhere regularly, consider:
- Advanced first aid course (£80-£150 for 2-day course)
- Satellite communicator (Garmin inReach, £250 + subscription) — for areas with no phone signal
- More comprehensive medical kit (£80-£150)
Scams & Sketchy Situations
Scams I’ve encountered:
The “helpful stranger” scam: Someone points out a “problem” with your van (flat tyre, leaking fluid). While you’re checking, their mate empties your van or steals from inside.
Solution: Thank them, check when you’re ready, don’t leave van unlocked.
The distraction technique: Someone knocks asking for directions/help while someone else tries your doors or takes from roof racks.
Solution: Talk through closed door, don’t get distracted, never leave doors unlocked.
The campsite “official”: Someone in a hi-vis knocks claiming to be collecting campsite fees. They’re not.
Solution: Always get receipts, verify with actual campsite office, don’t hand over cash to random people.
Fake parking fines: “Fines” placed on windscreen that look official but are actually scams to get your card details.
Solution: Real fines come from the council or private company with proper letterhead. Check online before paying anything.
Insurance Considerations
You need proper campervan insurance. Van insurance doesn’t cover your conversion or living in it.
What to look for:
- Agreed value or market value
- New-for-old replacement for your conversion
- Personal belongings cover (usually £1,000-£5,000)
- Security requirements clearly stated
- UK and European cover
My insurance requires:
- Thatcham-approved alarm
- GPS tracker
- Deadlocks on all doors
- Vehicle kept in secure location overnight when at home
If you don’t meet these requirements and claim? They can refuse to pay.
Cost: £400-£900 annually depending on van, conversion value, your age, location.
Specialist insurers: Comfort, Safeguard, LV, Adrian Flux all do campervan policies.
What to Do If the Worst Happens
Your van is stolen:
- Report to police immediately (999)
- Call your tracker company (if you have one)
- Notify your insurance within 24 hours
- Cancel any direct debits for the vehicle
- Inform DVLA
- Check local sales sites/Facebook for your van
Your van is broken into:
- Don’t touch anything (forensics)
- Photograph the damage
- Call police (101 or 999 if in progress)
- Get crime reference number
- List stolen items with serial numbers/photos
- Notify insurance
- Get repairs done (keep receipts)
You’re attacked or threatened:
- Call police (999)
- Get to safety
- Note descriptions/vehicle details
- Don’t pursue them
- Get medical attention if needed
- Report even if you don’t want to pursue it (helps track crime patterns)
The Balance Between Safe and Paranoid
Here’s the thing: you can’t eliminate all risk. You can minimise it.
I’ve done thousands of miles enjoying vanlife across the UK and Europe. I’ve had two break-ins, one attempted break-in, and countless moments where I’ve felt uneasy.
But I’ve also had hundreds of amazing nights in incredible locations where nothing bad happened.
Don’t live in fear. But don’t be naive either.
My actual security routine:
Every night:
- Close curtains/blackout blinds
- Lock deadlocks on all doors
- Activate alarm
- Check phone is charged
- Keep keys within reach
Takes 2 minutes. Becomes habit.
Every departure:
- Steering wheel lock on
- Valuables hidden or removed
- Nothing visible in van
- Check doors locked
Takes 3 minutes.
Regular maintenance:
- Monthly alarm test
- Quarterly security equipment check
- Annual gas certificate
- Tracker subscription maintained
The rest of the time? I’m not thinking about it. I’m living the life I wanted. Exploring. Enjoying. Being free.
Security is the foundation that lets you do that without constant worry.
Final Thoughts
That night when someone tried to break in while I was inside? It was horrible.
But you know what happened the next night? I parked somewhere better. I activated all my security. And I slept fine.
Because I’d learned. I’d improved. I’d adapted.
That’s what this is about. Not fear. Preparation.
Your van is your home. Protect it like one. But don’t let fear stop you living in it.
Useful Resources
Security equipment:
- Van Vault — vanvault.co.uk (secure storage)
- Locks 4 Vans — locks4vans.co.uk (deadlocks, alarms)
- Smartrack — smartrack.co.uk (GPS trackers)
Personal safety:
- Suzy Lamplugh Trust — suzylamplugh.org (personal safety advice)
- Ask for ANI — scheme at participating venues if you feel unsafe
Emergency numbers:
- Emergency: 999
- Non-emergency police: 101
- NHS: 111
Insurance:
- Compare campervan insurers before committing
- Read the security requirements carefully
- Ensure your conversion value is properly covered
Stay safe out there. The adventure’s worth protecting.
I burnt pasta. Not just overcooked it — actually burnt it. To the bottom of my pan. While it was still full of water.…
I spent £1,340 on my first work-from-van setup. Portable monitor, laptop stand, wireless keyboard, mouse, portable SSD, cable management system, desk lamp, premium laptop sleeve. It looked professional in photos.
I used the portable monitor exactly four times in six months before I sold it for £180.
The laptop stand created worse posture than just using the laptop on the table. The wireless keyboard’s batteries died constantly. The desk lamp drained my battery faster than my actual work. The cable management was pointless in a van where everything moves.
Real cost of useful equipment: About £420. Money wasted on things I thought I needed: £920.
After three years of trying to get a decent setup, I know exactly what’s essential versus what’s YouTube-influenced nonsense. I’ve worked through Scottish winters with no heating (laptop died from cold). I’ve worked through heatwaves (laptop overheated, lost two hours of work). I’ve blown my inverter. I’ve run my battery flat during a Zoom call.
Understanding the essentials of a work from van setup can significantly enhance your productivity and comfort while working remotely.
This isn’t another article showing you a beautiful desk setup with dual monitors and perfect lighting. This is the reality of working from a van in the UK — what actually works when you’re parked in a lay-by with patchy signal, 40% battery, and a deadline in three hours.
I’ll tell you what equipment is genuinely essential, what power setup you actually need (not the theoretical perfect system), and where to work when your van is too cold, too hot, or too depressing.
Let’s get into it.
My Work-From-Van Evolution: Three Setups, Three Lessons
Setup 1: The Instagram Dream (£1,340)
What I bought:
- 15.6″ portable monitor: £240
- Laptop stand (aluminum): £45
- Wireless keyboard: £60
- Wireless mouse: £35
- 1TB portable SSD: £120
- USB-C dock: £85
- Cable management kit: £25
- LED desk lamp: £40
- Laptop sleeve: £35
- External webcam: £55
- Blue Yeti microphone: £110
- Boom arm for mic: £35
- Second laptop battery: £180
- Laptop cooling pad: £55
- Ergonomic seat cushion: £40
- Noise-cancelling headphones: £280
Total: £1,440
What I actually used regularly:
- Laptop (already owned)
- Noise-cancelling headphones: £280
- SSD: £120
Total useful: £400
Money wasted: £1,040
What went wrong:
The portable monitor was heavy, needed separate power, took up precious desk space, and created glare issues. Within a month, I realized the laptop screen alone was fine.
The laptop stand elevated the screen but then I needed external keyboard/mouse. This meant more devices, more batteries to charge, more things to store, worse ergonomics hunching over to type.
The Blue Yeti microphone sounded amazing but was massive, needed boom arm, and my laptop’s built-in mic was fine for Zoom calls. Nobody cared about audio quality that much.
The desk lamp drew 8W (0.7A at 12V) continuously. Sounds small until you realize that’s 16Ah per day just for lighting. My battery was 110Ah. The lamp consumed 15% of daily capacity for marginal benefit.
What I learned: You don’t need a “professional setup.” You need a functional one.
Setup 2: The Overcorrection (Just a Laptop)
What I had:
- Laptop: Already owned
- Phone for hotspot: Already owned
- Nothing else
Cost: £0 (used what I had)
What I thought: The first setup was overkill. Let’s go minimal.
Reality after 3 months:
Neck pain from hunching over laptop on table for 6-8 hours daily. Developed persistent stiffness that lasted weeks.
Eye strain from small laptop screen (13.3″). Ended work days with headaches.
Audio issues on calls. Laptop speakers are quiet. Built-in mic picks up background noise (wind, traffic, van creaks).
No backup storage when laptop had issue. Lost a day’s work when laptop froze and hadn’t saved.
Cost of mistake:
- Physiotherapy for neck: £180 (3 sessions)
- Lost work time: Estimate 8 hours = £200 at my rates
Total: £380 in problems from going too minimal
What I learned: There’s a minimum functional setup. Going below it costs more in problems than the equipment would’ve cost.
Setup 3: Actually Right (Current Setup – £780)
What I have:
- Dell Latitude 14″ laptop (2020 model, bought used): £420
- Bose QC35 II headphones (bought used): £120
- 1TB SSD external drive: £80
- Simple tablet/laptop holder (adjustable angle): £18
- USB power bank (20,000mAh): £35
- Phone mount for calls: £8
- Laptop cooling stand (passive, no fan): £12
- Basic wireless mouse: £15
- External phone battery pack: £25
- Backup USB charging cables: £12
- Small LED puck lights (battery, for evening): £18
- Laptop screen protector (reduces glare): £8
- Microfiber cloths (screen cleaning): £6
Total: £777 (call it £780)
Been using: 18 months, still perfect
What works:
Laptop holder (£18) angles screen to eye level but I still use built-in keyboard. No separate keyboard needed. Solves neck pain for minimal cost.
Headphones are essential. Block out van noise (rain, wind, traffic). Laptop speakers are rubbish. Mic is good enough for calls.
SSD backup saves work hourly (automated). When laptop died, I lost nothing. £80 well spent.
USB power bank charges laptop when main battery is low. Got me through several deadlines when I couldn’t charge from van battery.
Passive cooling stand is just an aluminum plate with raised sections for airflow. No power draw, keeps laptop cool, costs £12.
Puck lights (£18) are battery-powered LED lights that stick anywhere. Use them for evening work without draining van battery. Each lasts 4-5 hours, batteries last weeks.
Everything else: Either already owned or not needed.
What I learned: The sweet spot is £500-800 for work equipment. Below that, you create problems. Above that, you buy things you won’t use.
Laptop Choice: What Actually Matters
After using three laptops over three years in vans, here’s what matters:
Battery Life (Most Important)
Minimum acceptable: 6 hours real-world use
Good: 8-10 hours
Excellent: 12+ hours
Why it matters:
Van power is limited. If your laptop only lasts 3-4 hours, you’re constantly charging it, draining your van battery, or unable to work.
My Dell Latitude: 8-9 hours of actual work (Word, browser, Zoom). This means I can work a full day on laptop battery alone if van battery is depleted.
Testing battery life:
Ignore manufacturer claims. They test at 50% brightness with minimal load. Real battery life is 60-70% of claimed.
Dell claims 12 hours. Reality: 8-9 hours of my actual work.
Power Consumption
Check laptop wattage:
Most laptops: 45-65W (charging)
High-performance laptops: 85-150W (charging)
Gaming laptops: 150-300W (don’t even consider these)
Why it matters:
Your inverter must handle the wattage. A 300W inverter can’t charge a 150W laptop reliably.
My laptop: 45W charger. My inverter: 300W (pure sine wave). Works perfectly.
Screen Size vs Portability
13-14 inches: Best for vans (portable, adequate screen)
15-16 inches: Workable but bulkier
17+ inches: Too big for van work
My experience:
Started with 13.3″ (too small, eye strain). Upgraded to 14″ (perfect). Tried friend’s 15.6″ (noticeably heavier, doesn’t fit on small van tables well).
Sweet spot: 14 inches
Build Quality
Van life is harsh on laptops:
- Temperature swings (-5°C to 35°C)
- Humidity and condensation
- Vibration while driving
- Limited space (more likely to knock/drop)
Business laptops > Consumer laptops
Dell Latitude, Lenovo ThinkPad, HP EliteBook: Built tougher, better keyboards, more reliable.
MacBooks: Premium but fragile. I’ve seen three crack screens from van movement. Expensive repairs.
My recommendation: Used business laptop (2-3 years old) from eBay. £300-500 gets you excellent quality. Save money, get tougher build.
Operating System
Windows: Most compatible, most repair options
MacOS: Premium, less repairable, expensive
Linux: Lightweight, free, requires tech knowledge
I use Windows. Widest compatibility, easiest repairs, most software options.
Storage
Minimum: 256GB SSD
Recommended: 512GB SSD
SSD (not HDD) is essential. HDDs fail from van vibration. SSDs are solid-state, much more reliable.
Cloud storage helps. I use Google Drive (100GB, £1.59/month) for automatic backup.
RAM
Minimum: 8GB
Recommended: 16GB
More RAM = smoother multitasking. Video calls + documents + browser + Spotify = 8GB minimum.
My laptop: 16GB. Comfortable for everything I do.
Ports
Essential:
- USB-A ports (3+)
- USB-C (charging + data)
- HDMI (if you use external monitor)
- Headphone jack
- SD card reader (nice to have)
More ports = less need for dongles/hubs = fewer things to lose/break.
What Doesn’t Matter
- Touchscreen (gimmick, drains battery faster)
- 4K screen (unnecessary, kills battery)
- Dedicated graphics (unless you’re editing video)
- RGB lighting (why?)
- Ultra-thin design (more fragile)
The Portable Monitor Debate: Do You Need One?
Short answer: Probably not.
Long answer:
I Spent £240 on Portable Monitor
Asus MB16AC, 15.6″, 1080p, USB-C powered
Used it: 4 times in 6 months
Why I bought it:
YouTube videos showed “productivity” setups with dual screens. I thought more screen space = more productive.
Reality:
- Takes up space: Van tables are small. Laptop + monitor = no room for notebook, coffee, or anything else.
- Power consumption: USB-C powered monitors draw 5-8W constantly. That’s 120-192Wh per day (10-16Ah). Significant drain.
- Setup/packdown: Every time I moved van, I had to disconnect monitor, pack it, secure it. Then reverse at next spot. 5-10 minutes each time.
- Glare issues: Van windows create reflections. Monitor was almost unusable in bright conditions.
- Weight: 800g extra to carry, store, protect.
- Ergonomics: Having second screen to the side created worse neck posture than just using laptop.
When I actually used it:
- Complex spreadsheet work (2 times)
- Video editing (1 time)
- Showing presentation to client (1 time)
Not worth £240 for 4 uses.
Sold it on eBay for £180. Loss: £60 + shipping
When Portable Monitors Make Sense
You might want one if:
- You’re video editing daily (need timeline + preview)
- You’re coding (need code + documentation)
- You’re designing (need multiple windows constantly)
- You have large van with permanent desk setup
You don’t need one if:
- You’re writing (I write, one screen is plenty)
- You’re doing basic office work (documents, email, spreadsheets)
- Your van table is small
- You move frequently
Most van workers don’t need one.
Alternative: Tablet as Second Screen
Cheaper option: iPad or Android tablet as second display
Apps: Duet Display, Sidecar (Mac), Space Desk (free)
Pros:
- Tablet has other uses (reading, entertainment)
- Lower power draw
- Wireless connection option
- More portable
Cons:
- Smaller screen than portable monitor
- Requires software setup
- Can be laggy
Cost: £150-400 (if buying tablet specifically for this)
My verdict: Still not worth it for most people. Just use laptop screen.
Power Setup: What You Actually Need
This is critical. Without power, you can’t work.
My Power System
Components:
- 110Ah AGM leisure battery: £140
- 200W solar panel: £180
- MPPT charge controller (20A): £85
- 300W pure sine wave inverter: £65
- Battery monitor: £35
- Cabling/fuses/connectors: £45
Total: £550
Powers:
- Laptop charging (45W × 2-3 hours/day = 135Wh = 11Ah)
- Phone charging (10W × 2 hours/day = 20Wh = 1.7Ah)
- LED lights (10W × 4 hours = 40Wh = 3.3Ah)
- Fridge (40W average, but cycling = ~15Ah/day)
- Laptop fan when needed (5W × 2 hours = 10Wh = 0.8Ah)
Total daily draw: ~32Ah
Battery capacity: 110Ah (usable ~55Ah at 50% discharge)
Days without sun: 1.7 days (55Ah ÷ 32Ah)
Solar generation: 200W panel generates 40-80Ah daily in summer, 15-30Ah in winter
Reality:
Summer: Never run low. Surplus power.
Winter: Close to limits on cloudy days. Occasionally need to drive to charge battery.
Would I change anything?
Yes: Upgrade to 200Ah battery (£280). Would give 3-4 days without sun. Better buffer for UK’s grey weather.
Minimum Power Setup for Laptop Work
If you’re on tight budget:
- 110Ah leisure battery: £140
- 100W solar panel: £90
- PWM charge controller: £25
- 150W modified sine inverter: £25
Total: £280
Limitations:
- Less solar generation (need sunshine)
- Modified sine wave less efficient (some laptops don’t like it)
- Smaller buffer (can’t work multiple days without sun)
But it works for basic laptop charging if you’re careful about power usage.
What About Generators?
I don’t use one.
Pros:
- Reliable power regardless of sun
- Can charge battery quickly
- Can run high-draw devices
Cons:
- Loud (antisocial at wild camping spots)
- Heavy (10-20kg)
- Requires fuel (cost + storage)
- Maintenance needed
- Smell (petrol/diesel fumes)
Cost:
- Quiet inverter generator: £300-600
- Fuel: £10-20/month
Who needs generator:
People working from van full-time in winter who can’t compromise on power availability. Or those parking at sites where generator use is acceptable.
Most people: Solar + battery is sufficient and silent.
Power Banks: The Backup Solution
I have: Anker PowerCore 20,000mAh (74Wh)
Cost: £35
Laptop charges: 1.5 times (Dell 45Wh battery × 1.5 = 67.5Wh)
Why it’s brilliant:
When van battery is low and I have deadline, power bank charges laptop while I work. This has saved me multiple times.
Usage: Maybe 10-15 times per year when I’ve misjudged power availability.
Worth every penny.
Charging Laptop: Inverter vs DC-DC
Inverter method (what I use):
- 12V battery → Inverter → 240V → Laptop charger → Laptop
- Efficiency: ~80% (20% lost in conversions)
DC-DC method:
- 12V battery → DC-DC converter → Laptop voltage → Laptop
- Efficiency: ~90%
DC-DC is more efficient but requires laptop-specific voltage converter (£30-60) and compatibility checking.
I use inverter because:
- Charges laptop, phone, and other devices
- More flexible
- Already had inverter for other purposes
If you’re only charging laptop: DC-DC more efficient, worth considering.
Internet: The Make-or-Break Factor
You can have perfect laptop setup but without internet, you can’t work.
My Internet Setup
Primary: Unlimited 4G data SIM (Three network)
Cost: £25/month (Smarty)
Speed: 15-30Mbps typically
Works: 85% of locations
Backup: EE PAYG SIM
Cost: £15 top-up lasts 2-3 months
Use: When Three has no signal
Total cost: ~£30/month
Coverage Reality
No network is 100% coverage.
Three: Good in cities/towns, patchy in rural areas
EE: Best rural coverage, expensive
O2: Middle ground
Vodafone: Similar to O2
My experience:
Scottish Highlands: EE essential (Three useless)
Cities: All networks fine
Coastal areas: Variable (Three often good)
Welsh mountains: EE best, still patchy
Having two networks (different operators) increases coverage to ~95% of locations.
Signal Boosters
Didn’t buy one because:
- Expensive (£200-400)
- Takes up space
- Requires roof-mounted antenna
- Doesn’t work with no signal (just amplifies weak signal)
Friends who have them: Report 20-40% improvement in weak signal areas. Not game-changing.
If you’re full-time remote worker in rural areas: Probably worth it. For me (mix of rural/urban), not necessary.
When There’s No Signal
Options:
- Drive somewhere with signal (most common solution)
- Use café/pub WiFi (buy coffee, use their internet)
- Library (free WiFi, quiet, warm)
- McDonald’s (reliable WiFi, free, open long hours)
- Campsite (if you’re staying there, usually has WiFi)
Reality check:
I work from non-van locations about 20% of time. Coffee shops, libraries, friends’ houses, campsites. Sometimes van just isn’t the right workspace.
Don’t force it. If signal is rubbish, lighting is bad, or it’s too cold, find better location.
Workspace Setup: Where to Actually Work
Inside Van
My desk: Fold-down table, 50cm × 40cm when open
Laptop position: Elevated on simple stand (£18), eye level when sitting
Seating: Van bench seat with cushion, or swivel driver seat
Lighting:
- Daytime: Natural light through windows
- Evening: Battery LED puck lights (£18 for 3)
Climate:
- Summer: Fine (open windows for breeze)
- Winter: Diesel heater running (costs ~£1/day fuel)
Noise:
- Quiet locations: Headphones optional
- Noisy locations: Noise-cancelling headphones essential
Reality:
Van workspace is functional but not comfortable for 8+ hour days. I do 4-6 hours in van, then move to café or library for afternoon.
Posture issues:
Even with laptop stand, van seating isn’t ergonomic. Develop neck/shoulder stiffness if working full days in van regularly.
Solution: Mix van work with proper desk work at libraries/cafés.
Outside Van (Weather Dependent)
Summer only: Fold-out table and chair outside van
Pros:
- More space
- Better posture (proper camping chair)
- Natural light
- Fresh air
Cons:
- Weather dependent
- Insects
- People see you (less stealth)
- Screen glare in bright sun
I do this: Maybe 30-40 days per year when weather is perfect (15-25°C, dry, not windy, not too bright).
Alternative Workspaces
Libraries (my favorite):
- Free
- Quiet
- WiFi
- Warm/cool
- Toilets
- Professional atmosphere
- Power sockets
I work from libraries: 2-3 days per week. Get van membership (need permanent address) and use as office.
Cafés:
- Cost: £3-5/day (coffee + snack)
- WiFi usually good
- Can be loud
- Time limits (some places)
- Social atmosphere (can be distracting or motivating)
Coworking spaces:
- Professional workspace
- Fast internet
- Meetings rooms
- Networking opportunities
- Cost: £50-200/month
I considered coworking but £100/month is steep when libraries are free and cafés are £15-20/week.
Friends’ houses:
- Free
- Comfortable
- Reliable internet
- Social breaks
- Contribute somehow (bring wine, cook dinner, etc.)
I work from friends’: Maybe 1-2 days per month. Good for intensive deadline work.
Power Consumption: Real Numbers
I measured everything with power meter over 2 weeks:
Laptop (Dell Latitude 14″)
Working (no charging): 15-25W (1.3-2.1A at 12V)
Charging: 45W (3.75A at 12V via inverter)
Sleep mode: 2-5W
Off: 0W
Daily usage:
- 6 hours working (not charging): 15W × 6 = 90Wh = 7.5Ah
- 2 hours charging: 45W × 2 = 90Wh = 7.5Ah via inverter (÷ 0.8 efficiency = 9.4Ah)
- Total: 16.9Ah/day
Phone (Charging)
Charging: 10W (0.8A at 12V)
Time: 1.5 hours/day
Daily: 15Wh = 1.25Ah
Headphones (Charging)
Charging: 5W (0.4A at 12V)
Time: 2 hours/week
Daily average: 1.4Wh = 0.12Ah (negligible)
LED Lights (Evening Work)
3× LED puck lights: 3W total
Time: 3 hours/evening (winter, when dark early)
Daily (winter): 9Wh = 0.75Ah
Total Daily Draw (Work Only)
Summer: ~18Ah (no lights needed)
Winter: ~19Ah (includes lights)
This is manageable with 110Ah battery + 200W solar.
But add fridge (15Ah), diesel heater fan (5Ah winter), phone usage (2Ah), and total daily draw is 40-45Ah.
The Work-From-Van Reality Check
What YouTube Doesn’t Show
The uncomfortable truth:
- Posture suffers: Even best van setup isn’t as ergonomic as proper desk
- Eye strain: Laptop screens in vans create more eye fatigue (reflections, position, lighting)
- Productivity drops: Van distractions (weather, people, view) reduce focus
- Cold winters are miserable: Hands get cold, laptop slow, heating costs money
- Hot summers are worse: Laptop overheats, you sweat, screen washes out in sun
- Internet fails: At crucial moments, signal drops
- Power anxiety: Constantly monitoring battery levels
- No separation: Work-life balance harder when workspace = living space
My actual productivity:
Van workspace: 70-80% of office productivity
Library/café: 90-95% of office productivity
Friend’s house: 100% productivity
I now work:
- 50% from van (when weather is good, location has signal, power is fine)
- 30% from libraries (consistent workspace)
- 20% from cafés/friends’ houses
Pure van working is romantic idea but mixed locations is better reality.
When Van Working Actually Works Well
Best scenarios:
- Short work sessions (2-4 hours)
- Writing/creative work (less screen-intensive)
- Asynchronous work (can pause for conditions)
- Summer months (comfortable temperature)
- Parked in good location (signal, level, quiet)
Worst scenarios:
- Video calls (battery drain, connection issues, background noise)
- Deadline-intensive work (stress + van limitations = bad)
- Winter evenings (cold, dark, limited power)
- Complex tasks requiring focus (van has too many distractions)
Budget Breakdown: Three Work Setups
Minimal Work Setup (£450)
For: Occasional remote work, weekend work, light laptop use
Equipment:
- Used laptop (3-4 years old): £300
- USB power bank: £35
- Basic headphones: £25
- External backup drive: £60
- Charging cables: £12
- Laptop sleeve: £18
Power:
- 100Ah battery: £140
- 100W solar: £90
- PWM controller: £25
- 150W inverter: £25
Total: £730
Limitations:
- No extended work sessions
- Basic power buffer
- No backup equipment
Standard Work Setup (£1,200)
For: Regular remote work, full days occasionally
Equipment:
- Good used laptop (2-3 years): £450
- Quality headphones: £120
- 1TB backup drive: £80
- Power bank: £35
- Laptop stand: £18
- Wireless mouse: £15
- Screen protector: £8
- Microfiber cloths: £6
- LED lights: £18
- Carrying case: £25
Power:
- 110Ah battery: £140
- 200W solar: £180
- MPPT controller: £85
- 300W inverter: £65
- Battery monitor: £35
- Cabling: £45
Internet:
- Two SIM cards: £0 upfront
- Monthly: £30
Total setup: £1,325 (round to £1,200 excluding monthly costs)
This is what I have. Works well for full-time remote work.
Premium Work Setup (£2,500+)
For: Full-time professional remote work, no compromises
Equipment:
- New/nearly-new laptop: £800-1,200
- Premium headphones: £280
- Portable monitor: £240
- Ergonomic setup: £100
- Full backup system: £200
- Professional peripherals: £150
Power:
- 200Ah lithium battery: £900
- 400W solar: £400
- 30A MPPT: £120
- 1000W inverter: £180
- Professional monitoring: £80
- Installation: £300
Internet:
- Signal booster: £300
- Premium data plans: £50/month
Coworking:
- Monthly membership: £100/month
Total: £3,800 setup + £150/month running
Who needs this:
Full-time remote workers earning £40k+ where work reliability is critical. The investment pays for itself in professional capability.
Most van workers don’t need this. Standard setup works fine.
Common Mistakes and Costs
Mistake 1: Buying Portable Monitor (Me)
Cost: £240
Used: 4 times
Sold for: £180
Loss: £60 + shipping
Mistake 2: Wrong Laptop (Friend)
Bought: Gaming laptop (powerful but power-hungry)
Cost: £1,200
Problem: 150W charger, 2-hour battery life
Solution: Sold for £800, bought business laptop for £450
Loss: £350
Mistake 3: Modified Sine Wave Inverter (Me)
First inverter: £18 modified sine wave
Problem: Laptop charger buzzed loudly, charged slowly, eventually killed charger
Replacement charger: £45
Replacement pure sine inverter: £65
Total cost: £128 vs £65 if I’d bought right initially
Mistake 4: Undersized Battery (Friend)
Initial: 75Ah battery
Problem: Couldn’t work full day without depleting battery
Upgrade: 110Ah battery (£140) + fitting (2 hours)
Should’ve just bought 110Ah initially
Mistake 5: No Backup Storage (Me)
Cost: £0 (didn’t buy backup drive)
Result: Laptop water damage, lost 2 days work
Re-doing work cost: 2 days = £400 at my rates
Backup drive costs: £80
Lost £320 by not spending £80
Mistake 6: Cheap Headphones (Me)
Bought: £12 Amazon basics headphones
Lasted: 3 months (broke)
Bought: Another pair £15
Lasted: 2 months
Eventually bought: Bose QC35 II (used) £120
Lasted: 2+ years, still perfect
Total spent on cheap ones: £27 over 5 months
Should’ve bought quality from start
Ergonomics: The Uncomfortable Truth
After 3 years, I’ve developed:
- Neck stiffness (from laptop height)
- Shoulder tension (from hunching)
- Lower back issues (from van seating)
- Eye strain (from screen position)
The fixes:
- Laptop stand (£18): Raises screen to eye level. Massive difference.
- External mouse (£15): Reduces shoulder strain vs trackpad.
- Posture breaks: Every 45 minutes, stand up, stretch, walk. Essential.
- Mix locations: 3-4 hours in van max, then move to proper desk (library/café).
- Physiotherapy: £180 for 3 sessions taught me proper stretches and posture corrections.
Reality: Van working will cause ergonomic issues unless you’re careful. Budget for physio.
The Honest Assessment After 3 Years
Total spent on work setup over 3 years:
- Equipment: £1,120 (including mistakes)
- Physio for posture issues: £180
- Power system upgrades: £380
- Coworking/café costs: £1,560 (£40/month average)
- Internet: £1,080 (£30/month)
Total: £4,320 over 3 years = £120/month
Compared to office:
- Office rent: £0 (work from home/van)
- Commuting: £0 (saved)
- Office clothes: £0 (saved)
- Lunch out: Minimal (cook in van)
Net financial position: Saved £400-600/month vs office working + commuting + office wardrobe
But:
- Productivity slightly lower (5-10%)
- More physical strain (ergonomics)
- More complexity (power, internet, finding workspace)
- Less separation (work-life balance harder)
Worth it?
Financially: Yes, saving significant money
Lifestyle: Yes, freedom to work anywhere
Professionally: Mostly yes, with compromises
Physically: No, ergonomics are worse
Would I do it again? Yes, but with better expectations and more use of libraries/cafés from the start.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I really work full-time from a van?
Yes. I do it. But it’s not as comfortable as YouTube suggests. Mix van working with libraries/cafés for best results.
Q: What’s the minimum power setup?
110Ah battery + 100W solar + inverter = ~£280. This works for basic laptop charging if you’re careful about power usage.
Q: Do I need portable monitor?
Probably not. I wasted £240 on one. Used it 4 times. Laptop screen is fine for most work.
Q: How do I handle video calls?
Headphones with mic (essential), stable internet (find reliable spot), background (plain wall or outside). Park before call to avoid movement. Warm up van first in winter (cold breath visible on camera).
Q: What about internet reliability?
Get two SIM cards (different networks). Covers 95% of locations. For critical calls, use café/library with known good WiFi.
Q: Can I use gaming laptop?
No. Power consumption too high (100-200W). Battery life too short (2-3 hours). Get business laptop instead.
Q: What if my battery dies mid-work?
USB power bank is backup. Charges laptop 1-2 times. Has saved me multiple times during deadlines.
Q: How do you stay focused?
Harder than office. Set timer (45 min work, 15 min break). Use headphones (blocks distractions). Work in libraries when serious focus needed.
Q: What about phone calls?
Find quiet spot. Use headphones with mic. Car parks, quiet streets, fields all work. Don’t make calls from noisy locations (clients notice).
Q: Winter working – how cold is too cold?
Below 5°C, laptop is cold to touch, typing is uncomfortable. Run heater for 30 min before work. Below 0°C, laptop can refuse to charge. Warm it up first.
Q: Summer working – how hot is too hot?
Above 28°C, laptop overheats. Park in shade. Use cooling stand. Work early morning or evening. Sometimes use café for air conditioning.
Q: How do you separate work and life?
Hard. Van is bedroom, office, kitchen, everything. Set work hours (9am-5pm). “Close” laptop at end of day. Sometimes walk away from van for evening.
Q: What about insurance for work equipment?
Check van insurance covers equipment. Mine covers £500 of equipment. Laptop worth £420 so covered. For expensive kit, get specific insurance.
Q: Can two people work from one van?
Possible but tight. Need quiet time for calls (take turns). Need enough power (double laptop charging). Need table space (only one can work at van table). Most couples take turns or one uses café.
Equipment Checklist: What You Actually Need
Essential (Don’t Skip)
- [ ] Laptop with 6+ hours battery life
- [ ] Good headphones (blocks noise, decent mic)
- [ ] External backup drive (1TB minimum)
- [ ] USB power bank (20,000mAh+)
- [ ] Charging cables (including backups)
- [ ] 110Ah+ battery in van
- [ ] 100W+ solar panel
- [ ] Pure sine wave inverter
- [ ] Two SIM cards (different networks)
Cost: £600-800
Highly Recommended
- [ ] Laptop stand (adjustable angle)
- [ ] External mouse
- [ ] Screen protector (anti-glare)
- [ ] LED task lights (battery powered)
- [ ] Laptop cooling stand (passive)
- [ ] Microfiber screen cloth
- [ ] Surge protector
- [ ] Phone mount (for calls)
Additional cost: £80-120
Nice to Have
- [ ] Wireless keyboard
- [ ] Second monitor (if you genuinely need it)
- [ ] Tablet (backup device)
- [ ] External webcam
- [ ] Better microphone
Additional cost: £150-400
Skip (Waste of Money)
- ❌ Fancy laptop stands (>£40)
- ❌ USB hubs with 10+ ports
- ❌ Monitor arms
- ❌ Desk lamps (battery drain)
- ❌ Wrist rests
- ❌ Gaming peripherals
- ❌ Cable management systems
The Bottom Line
Realistic work-from-van setup costs: £700-1,200
That includes:
- Laptop (used but good): £300-500
- Essential peripherals: £150-250
- Power system: £250-450
Monthly running costs: £30-50
- Internet: £25-30
- Café work sessions: £15-20
- Equipment replacement fund: £10
It’s cheaper than renting office/coworking (£100-200/month) but requires compromises on comfort and ergonomics.
The reality:
- Van working is functional, not perfect
- Mix van work with libraries/cafés for best results
- Portable monitors are usually unnecessary
- Power management is critical
- Internet can be unreliable
- Ergonomics will suffer unless careful
After £4,320 spent over 3 years, I can say: van working is viable but YouTube oversells the comfort. It’s a tool for location independence, not a replacement for proper office ergonomics.
Build what you’ll actually use, not what looks good on Instagram. Test basic setup first, upgrade if needed, avoid equipment you “might” use.
Now stop reading and go work from your van. You’ll learn more in one week of actual work than from any guide.