campervan blackout curtains

Proper campervan blackout curtains are a non-negotiable bit of kit. They’re what properly transform your van from just a vehicle into a comfortable, private home on wheels. I’m talking total light control for better sleep, proper thermal insulation for unpredictable UK weather, and that crucial privacy you need for both wild camping and sneaky urban stays. Getting this one DIY project right dramatically improves your quality of life on the road. In this guide, we will explore everything you need to know about DIY Campervan Blackout Curtains.

Why Blackout Curtains Are a Van Life Game Changer

So many people building a van see curtains as a final decorative touch, something to chuck in at the end. In reality, they’re a fundamental part of a functional conversion. They solve a bunch of practical problems that are unique to living in a tiny space, especially here in the UK where the conditions can turn on a sixpence.

Think of them less as accessories and more as a core part of your van’s climate control and security system.

The most obvious win is getting your van completely dark. During those long UK summer days, the sun can set as late as 10 PM and be back up before 5 AM. Without decent blackout curtains, that extended daylight will absolutely wreck your sleep cycle, leaving you knackered before the day’s adventure has even started.

Beyond Just Blocking Light

While getting the van pitch-black is their main job, the benefits go much, much further. High-quality campervan blackout curtains provide a surprising amount of thermal insulation. This is a massive deal for a few key reasons:

Winter Warmth: On a cold night, they trap a huge amount of precious heat inside your van. This means less strain on your heater, which saves your battery or fuel.
Summer Cooling: On those rare hot, sunny days, they reflect the sun’s rays, helping to stop the inside of your van turning into a metal oven.
Reduced Condensation: By creating a thermal barrier between the cold window pane and the warm interior air, they can seriously help minimise condensation build-up – a constant battle in van life.

This multi-functionality is why they work so well alongside the other core parts of your van build. To really get your head around how temperature control works in a van, check out our deep-dive guide on Insulation and soundproofing for campervans.

Privacy and Stealth for True Freedom

Another huge advantage is privacy. It’s a game-changer. Whether you’re parked up at a busy campsite or trying to be discreet in a town centre, curtains are your first line of defence against prying eyes. They let you live comfortably in your space without feeling like you’re in a goldfish bowl, turning your van into a proper private sanctuary.

This is especially vital for stealth camping, where drawing any attention to your vehicle is the absolute last thing you want.

The ability to completely block all light from escaping your van at night is non-negotiable for successful stealth camping. It’s what separates a peaceful night’s rest from a potential knock on the window.

The popularity of van life is absolutely surging. For 2025, an estimated 10.4 million Brits are planning camping and caravanning holidays, a massive increase from previous years. This boom just highlights why optimising your setup with gear like proper blackout curtains is so important for comfort and privacy in what are becoming increasingly popular spots.

Selecting the Right Materials for Your Curtains

Getting your materials right is where your campervan blackout curtains go from being a decent idea to a genuinely game-changing part of your build. The secret isn’t just one fabric, but a clever combination of layers, each doing a specific job.

Think of it like dressing for a hike in the Peak District; you need layers for comfort, protection, and performance. Your curtains will be a three-part sandwich: an interior fabric for looks, a blackout layer for darkness, and a thermal layer for insulation. Get this combination right, and you’ll have curtains that are durable, effective, and perfectly suited to the demands of UK van life.

The Three Essential Fabric Layers

Let’s break down what each layer actually does. Understanding their roles will help you make much smarter choices when you’re staring at a wall of fabric rolls or scrolling endlessly online.

The Interior-Facing Fabric: This is the layer you’ll see from inside your van. Its main job is to look good and match your interior. You have a lot of freedom here, but it’s wise to choose something durable and relatively easy to clean. Cotton, linen blends, or hard-wearing upholstery fabrics are all excellent choices.
The Blackout Layer: This is the workhorse. Its sole purpose is to block 100% of incoming light. Standard “dimout” fabrics won’t cut it here; you need a dedicated blackout lining, which is usually a thick, tightly woven fabric with a special coating on one side.
The Thermal Layer: Facing the window, this layer is crucial for temperature control. It reflects heat out in the summer and traps warmth in during the winter. This seemingly simple layer makes a huge difference to your comfort and can even help reduce condensation.

Choosing Your Blackout and Thermal Materials

The interior fabric is a matter of personal taste, but the blackout and thermal layers are all about technical performance. These are the two you really need to get right.

For the blackout layer, look specifically for a three-pass blackout lining. This type has three layers of coating applied, making it completely opaque and far more durable than the cheaper one-pass versions. You can find this in most fabric shops or online. It’s a bit stiff to work with, but the results are absolutely worth the effort.

A common mistake is using a dark-coloured fabric and hoping it will be enough. True blackout performance comes from a dedicated lining designed to block light, not from the colour of the fabric itself.

When it comes to the thermal layer, you have a few solid options:

Thermal Fleece: A simple, cost-effective choice. It traps a layer of air, providing surprisingly good insulation for the price.
Reflectix-style Insulation: This is the bubble-wrap-like material with a foil coating. It offers excellent thermal reflection and it’s lightweight, but it can be a bit crinkly and noisy.
Specialised Thermal Linings: These are fabrics designed specifically for curtains, often with a silver or white reflective coating. They offer a great balance of performance and a less ‘industrial’ look. One popular option is thermal insulated shade fabric, which often combines multiple layers into one, simplifying the whole process.

A great real-world combination is a tough cotton canvas for the interior, a three-pass blackout lining stitched to it, and a layer of thermal fleece as the final backing. This creates a thick, insulated curtain that hangs well and does its job perfectly.

Here’s a quick breakdown to help you weigh up the pros and cons of each layer.

Campervan Curtain Fabric Comparison

Fabric Layer	Recommended Material	Pros	Cons	Average Cost (per metre)
Interior Fabric	Cotton Canvas / Upholstery Fabric	Huge choice of colours/patterns, durable, easy to work with.	Can be heavy, may need pre-washing to prevent shrinking.	£8 – £20
Blackout Layer	Three-Pass Blackout Lining	100% light blocking, adds weight and structure, improves insulation slightly.	Can be stiff to sew, limited colour options (usually white/cream).	£7 – £15
Thermal Layer	Thermal Fleece	Inexpensive, good insulation, soft, drapes well.	Less effective at reflecting heat than foil-based options.	£5 – £10
Thermal Layer	Reflectix / Foil Bubble Wrap	Excellent heat reflection (summer & winter), very lightweight.	Crinkly/noisy, can be awkward to sew, industrial look.	£4 – £8

Choosing the right combination from this table really depends on your priorities – whether that’s budget, ease of making, or maximum thermal performance.

Sourcing Your Materials in the UK

Finding these materials in the UK is pretty straightforward. Your local fabric or haberdashery shop is a great place to start, especially for the interior fabric and blackout lining, as you can actually feel the quality.

For more specialised items like Reflectix, DIY superstores like B&Q or Screwfix are your best bet.

Don’t overlook online suppliers either. Websites dedicated to upholstery or curtain-making often have a wider selection and can be more cost-effective, especially when you’re buying several metres. Just be sure to order samples first to check the colour and quality before you commit to buying the full amount. By carefully selecting each layer, you’ll end up with curtains that aren’t just stylish, but an essential piece of functional kit for your van.

How to Measure and Pattern Your Van Windows

Getting the measurements right is where you win or lose the battle against those infuriating slivers of light. A few millimetres off might not sound like much, but it’s the difference between a pitch-black van and one that lets in just enough light to wake you up at 5 am.

Unlike house windows, van windows are rarely perfect squares. They’ve got frustrating curves, weird angles, and rubber seals that get in the way. You can’t just buy a standard size; precision here is everything. Don’t worry, though—it’s a straightforward process once you break it down.

Gathering Your Patterning Tools

Before you start, get your toolkit ready. Having everything to hand makes the process smoother and far more accurate. You don’t need anything fancy.

Large Sheets of Cardboard: Old delivery boxes are perfect. You need pieces big enough to cover each window completely.
A Good Marker Pen: A permanent marker like a Sharpie works best.
A Tape Measure: Essential for checking your work and adding seam allowances later.
Sturdy Scissors or a Craft Knife: Something that can cut through cardboard cleanly.
Masking Tape: Really useful for holding the cardboard in place while you trace.

Creating Your Window Template

The goal here is simple: create a perfect cardboard replica of each window. This template will be your master pattern for cutting all three layers of fabric, so take your time and aim for accuracy.

Start by cutting a piece of cardboard that’s a bit bigger than the window you’re working on. Use a few bits of masking tape to hold it against the window frame from the inside.

Now, press the cardboard firmly against the window. You should be able to feel the hard metal edge of the window opening through the cardboard. With your marker, carefully trace this edge. For most vans, the easiest way to get an accurate line is to trace the boundary where the metal bodywork meets the window’s rubber seal. This ensures your final curtain will cover the entire glass pane and tuck neatly against the frame.

Once you’ve traced the shape, take the cardboard down and carefully cut along your marked line.

Pro Tip: Before you do anything else, hold your new template up inside the window frame to double-check the fit. It should sit snugly with no major gaps. It’s far easier to trim a bit more cardboard off or make a new template than it is to recut expensive fabric.

Adding the Crucial Seam Allowance

Your cardboard template is the exact size of the window opening, but your fabric needs to be slightly larger. This extra material, called the seam allowance, is for when you sew the layers together.

A standard seam allowance for a project like this is 1.5cm (about 5/8 of an inch).

The easiest way to add this is to lay your cardboard template on your fabric and trace around it with a fabric marker. Then, using your tape measure, draw a second line 1.5cm outside of that first line. This outer line is your new cutting line. Do this for every piece of fabric you cut.

This little bit of extra material ensures that after sewing, your finished curtains will be the perfect size to fit the window snugly.

The interior fabric, blackout lining, and thermal barrier—needs to be cut using your enlarged pattern to ensure they all line up perfectly when you sew them together.

Finally, remember to label each template clearly (e.g., “Sliding Door Window,” “Rear Right”) and mark which side faces outwards. This simple step prevents a world of confusion later, especially if your windows are similar but not identical. Getting this process right can even influence your build from the start, helping you choose the best campervan windows for easy curtain fitting down the line.

Right, you’ve got your fabric layers all cut out and ready to go. Now for the fun bit: turning those flat pieces of material into actual, functional campervan curtains. This is where it all comes together.

And don’t worry if you’ve never touched a sewing machine in your life. There are some brilliant no-sew methods that give a solid, durable finish that’s more than up to the rigours of van life. We’ll walk through both ways of doing it.

The Traditional Sewing Method

If you’ve got a sewing machine, stitching the layers together is hands-down the most durable, long-lasting option. The process is pretty straightforward. You’re basically making a three-layer fabric sandwich and sewing around the edges.

First, lay your thermal fabric down on a flat surface, reflective side facing up. On top of that, place your blackout lining. Finally, add your interior-facing fabric, but make sure the ‘pretty’ side is facing down. When you look at your stack, you should be seeing the back of your interior fabric.

Pin all three layers together around the entire edge. Chuck a pin in every few inches to stop anything shifting about while you work. It’s a good idea to use a heavy-duty needle in your machine for this, as you’ll be punching through some fairly thick material.

Stitch all the way around the edge, but leave a gap of about 15-20cm along one of the straightest sides. Don’t forget to backstitch at the start and finish to lock your seam in place.

Once that’s done, snip the corners off to reduce any bulk. Then, carefully turn the whole thing right-side-out through the gap you left. It’s a bit like turning a massive pillowcase inside out. Poke the corners out so they’re nice and crisp, give it a good iron, and then topstitch all the way around the edge. This gives it a really neat, professional finish and cleverly sews up your turning gap at the same time.

No-Sew Alternatives for a Stitch-Free Finish

No sewing machine? No problem at all. There are a few really solid alternatives that don’t require a single stitch. These are perfect if you want a simpler approach or just don’t have the gear.

One of the most reliable options is iron-on hemming tape, which you might also see called fusible bonding web. It’s fantastic stuff that creates a seriously strong bond when you hit it with the heat from an iron.

To use it, you’ll still layer your fabrics exactly as described above, but you’ll work section by section.

Place a strip of the hemming tape between the fabric layers, right near the edge.
Press down firmly with a hot iron for the recommended time (but always check your fabric’s heat settings first!).
Work your way around the entire curtain like this, still leaving that gap to turn it right-side-out.
After you’ve turned it, use another little piece of hemming tape inside the gap to seal it shut.

Another great no-sew method is a strong fabric adhesive. You need to look for a glue that’s specifically designed for heavy-duty fabrics. Just apply a thin, even bead of glue between the layers near the edge, press it all down firmly, and then let it cure completely.

Whichever no-sew method you go for, the key is to let the bond fully cure before you start handling the curtains or trying to fit them. A bit of patience here will pay off with much better durability down the road.

This DIY approach is a smart way to manage costs, which is more important than ever. The Nohma Van Conversion Survey highlighted that base vehicle prices for UK self-builders have shot up by 76% in just four years. While essentials like electrics and insulation are top priorities, over 85% of builders also focus on comfort features like good sleeping quarters where effective blackout curtains are crucial for privacy and rest. You can learn more about the rising costs and priorities in UK van conversions.

Comparing the Methods: Durability and Finish

So, which one should you choose? It really comes down to your skills, the tools you have, and what you’re prioritising.

Assembly Method	Durability	Finish Quality	Tools Required
Sewing Machine	Excellent. Stitches provide the strongest, most flexible bond that will last for years.	Professional. A sewn seam and topstitching give the cleanest, most durable edge.	Sewing machine, heavy-duty needles, thread, pins.
Iron-On Tape	Good. Creates a strong, reliable bond but can become less effective with repeated washing.	Very Good. The bond is flat and almost invisible, creating a neat finish.	Iron, ironing board, hemming tape.
Fabric Glue	Fair to Good. Strength depends heavily on the quality of the glue and proper application.	Good. Can sometimes leave a slightly stiffer edge compared to other methods.	High-quality fabric adhesive.

Ultimately, a sewn curtain will always be the most robust option. However, for a campervan where curtains aren’t going in the wash as often as your ones at home, a well-executed no-sew method using quality products is more than up to the task.

If you’re building out your toolkit for this and other van projects, have a look at our guide on the essential tools and materials for campervan conversions.

Getting Your Curtains Up: Installation for a Perfect Light-Proof Seal

You’ve done the hard graft of measuring, cutting, and stitching your curtains together. Now for the moment of truth: getting them hung. How you mount your campervan blackout curtains is just as critical as the fabric you chose. A sloppy installation with gaps will let light bleed in, completely defeating the point of the whole project.

The aim here is a complete, gap-free seal around every single window. Let’s get into the best ways to achieve that perfect pitch-black finish, from clever magnetic tricks to more traditional tracks, so you get the total darkness you’re after.

The Magic of Magnets

For most panel vans with steel bodies, magnets are the undisputed champion. They’re ridiculously easy, involve zero drilling, and create an incredibly tight seal against the metal window surrounds. If you want a clean, damage-free installation, this is it.

You’ve got two main ways to go about it:

Sew-in Magnets: This is my top recommendation for a slick, professional finish. You simply sew small but mighty neodymium magnets into the hem of your curtains. Spacing them every 10-15cm around the entire edge creates a continuous magnetic pull that just snaps the curtain securely to the van’s bodywork.
External Magnets: Don’t fancy sewing them in? You can glue strong magnets to the curtain edges instead. Another option is using a separate set of magnets to clamp the curtain fabric to the van wall from the outside. It’s a bit less elegant but still gets the job done.

The real beauty of magnets is just how practical they are. You can pull the curtains down in a heartbeat for driving and then snap them straight back up when you park for the night. No fuss.

Traditional Curtain Tracks and Rods

If you prefer a more conventional look, or if your van has plastic window surrounds where magnets are useless, curtain tracks or rods are a solid choice. This method gives you that smooth gliding action, which is brilliant for bigger windows or the cab divider curtain.

You’ll need to get the drill out for this one, screwing the tracks into the van’s structure above and sometimes below the window. Flexible curtain track is especially handy for navigating the awkward curves you find in most vans.

While this method is rock solid, getting a complete light seal can be a bit more of a challenge. The curtains naturally hang slightly away from the wall, which can let light creep in around the edges. A good workaround is to combine the track system with a few strategically placed Velcro tabs or magnets along the sides to pin everything down.

Velcro: The Versatile, No-Drill Fix

Good old hook-and-loop fastener, or Velcro, is another cracking no-drill option. It’s cheap, you can get it anywhere, and it’ll stick to pretty much any surface you throw at it – metal, plastic, wood, or carpet lining.

For the best results, shell out for the industrial-strength, self-adhesive stuff. Stick the rough ‘hook’ side to the van around the window frame and then sew the soft ‘loop’ side onto the curtain’s perimeter. Trust me, you have to sew the strip to the fabric; the adhesive on its own just won’t stand up to the constant pulling and tugging.

Velcro creates a fantastic light seal, but it can be a bit noisy to rip off in a quiet van. It’s an ideal choice for smaller, fixed windows that you don’t need to open up very often.

Our Two Cents: Whichever way you go, the ultimate goal is to kill every single gap. Even a pinprick of light can feel like a searchlight in a truly dark van, so pay forensic attention to the sides and bottom edges of your curtains.

For us vanlifers, poor window insulation can crank up heating needs by 25% in a chilly British winter. A proper set of thermal blackout curtains slashes that energy drain, saving precious leisure battery power for your essentials. This is a big deal when you think about the millions of UK campers on the road, many in vans where battery anxiety is real. You can find out more about the rise of premium upgrades in the UK camping market.

Comparing Your Mounting Options

Choosing the right method really comes down to your van’s construction, your budget, and how you’ll be using the curtains day-to-day. This table breaks down the main differences to help you figure out what’s best for your build.

Mounting Options for Campervan Curtains

A comparison of different installation methods to help you choose the best fit for your van.

Mounting Method	Best For	Installation Difficulty	Light Seal Effectiveness	Cost
Sew-in Magnets	Steel panel vans for a perfect, seamless seal.	Medium (requires sewing)	Excellent	££
Curtain Track/Rod	Larger windows, cab dividers, non-metal frames.	High (requires drilling)	Good (may need side seals)	£££
Velcro	All surfaces, especially plastic or wood trims.	Low	Excellent	£

Ultimately, the best installation is the one that gives you a total blackout with the least amount of faff. For most DIY van builds, sewing neodymium magnets into the curtain edges is the most effective and user-friendly solution, turning your van into a perfectly dark and private sanctuary for the night.

Common Questions About Campervan Curtains

Building a van is one thing; living in it is another. After countless hours on the road and a few builds under our belts, we’ve found the same questions about curtains crop up again and again. Here are the straight answers to the things you’re probably wondering about.

Are Thermal Curtains Really Necessary in the UK?

One hundred percent, yes. Don’t think of them as a winter-only thing. The UK throws damp air and surprisingly cool summer nights at you, especially if you’re anywhere near Scotland or the Welsh mountains. A thermal layer is your first line of defence.

In winter, the difference is huge. It traps heat inside, meaning your diesel heater runs less and you save a surprising amount of battery power. But in summer, it’s just as crucial. It reflects the sun’s heat, stopping your van from turning into a greenhouse on a rare sunny day. They’re an essential bit of kit, not an optional extra.

A common mistake is thinking thermal layers are only for keeping warm. They’re just as effective at keeping your van cool by reflecting solar heat away from the windows – the biggest source of heat gain in summer.

How Do I Manage Condensation Behind My Curtains?

Ah, condensation. The relentless enemy of every van lifer in Britain. A good set of thermal curtains creates a temperature difference that can actually make it worse, so you need a solid plan to stop mould before it starts.

It’s a three-pronged attack:

Ventilation is everything. You need moving air. That means cracking a window or, even better, running your roof fan on a low setting. This is your number one weapon against moisture.
Choose the right fabric. The layer of your curtain facing the window should be moisture-resistant or even waterproof. This stops the curtain from getting soaked and becoming a breeding ground for mould and mildew.
Make it a daily habit. Every morning, pull the curtains completely away from the glass for at least an hour. Let the windows and the back of the curtains air out properly. It makes a massive difference.

What Is the Best Solution for Cab and Windscreen Windows?

Your cab windows – the windscreen and two side doors – are a different beast. They’re huge, awkwardly shaped, and the plastic surrounds make traditional curtain rails a real pain.

Honestly, the most effective solution by a country mile is a set of custom-fit insulated window covers. Forget trying to hang curtains here. These are more like insulated panels, usually made from a sandwich of Reflectix-style insulation between two layers of tough fabric.

They’re cut to the exact shape of the glass and held in place with strong neodymium magnets sewn into the edges or by just being tucked tightly into the window seals. The blackout and thermal performance is far superior to any hanging curtain. Plus, they’re quick to put up, take down, and they store flat, which is a huge win for saving space.

At The Feral Way, we focus on practical, road-tested advice to help you build a van that truly works. Find more no-nonsense guides and real-world tips at https://www.theferalway.com.