VW T5 Fuse Box Locations & Common Faults: Complete Guide for Campervan Owners

Right then, let’s get this sorted. Your VW T5’s electrics are spread across three main fuse box locations: one tucked away in the dashboard, another lurking under one of the front seats, and a third in the engine bay. Knowing where these are is the first, and most important, step to fixing any electrical gremlin, whether it’s a dead 12V socket or a van that refuses to start. This guide will give you the clear understanding you need to find the right fuse without tearing your hair out.

Pinpointing Your VW T5 Fuse Box Locations

Before you can even think about looking at a diagram, you’ve got to find the fuse box itself. Volkswagen didn’t just chuck them all in one place; they split the circuits across different locations to protect sensitive bits of kit and better manage high-power systems. While the exact layout can shift a bit from van to van, pretty much all T5 models from 2003 to 2015 follow the same basic logic.

faults are generally grouped by location. Interior stuff like radios and lights? That’ll be the dashboard panel. Major engine functions? Head to the box in the engine bay. Getting your head around this simple separation of powers is the secret to fixing things quickly.

For a quick summary of what’s what, this table breaks down the main locations and the systems they typically protect. It’s a great starting point before you dive into the more detailed diagrams further down.

Primary VW T5 Fuse Box Locations and Functions

Fuse Box Location	Common Model Years	Primary Systems Protected
Interior Dashboard	2003–2015	Radio, interior lights, wipers, 12V sockets, instrument cluster, central locking
Under Front Seat	2003–2015	Leisure battery systems, auxiliary heaters, electric windows, factory-fitted options
Engine Bay	2003–2015	Engine ECU, fuel pump, ABS, cooling fans, starter motor, main vehicle power

This table should help you narrow down your search immediately. If your windscreen wipers pack up, you know to head straight for the dashboard fuses rather than wasting time under the bonnet.

Why Locations and Diagrams Vary

Here’s a common source of frustration for T5 owners: you find a fuse box diagram online, but it doesn’t quite match what’s in your van. Don’t panic. This is completely normal and usually boils down to one of two things:

• Model Year Differences: The big change happened with the T5.1 facelift model (2010–2015). These later vans got different engine management systems and more electronic toys, which meant VW had to rejig the fuse layout compared to the original T5 (2003–2009).
• Factory-Fitted Options: The spec of your van makes a huge difference. A high-spec Caravelle with an auxiliary heater, factory tow bar electrics, and a second battery is going to have a load of extra fuses that a basic panel van just doesn’t need.

So, always use a diagram as your main guide, but be ready for a few minor differences based on your van’s specific setup. For instance, if your 12V sockets have died, the interior fuse box is always the right place to start looking, regardless of your van’s age or trim level. This guide provides the detailed diagrams for each location, helping you navigate these little variations with confidence.

Understanding Your T5 Fuse Box Layout

Before you start pulling fuses, it’s worth taking a moment to get your head around the T5’s electrical architecture. Volkswagen’s design is pretty logical once you get used to it, but it can feel a bit daunting at first. Knowing the layout and the different bits involved is the key to working safely and avoiding expensive mistakes.

Your VW T5 doesn’t just use one type of fuse. You’ll find a mix of standard blade (ATO/ATC) fuses, smaller mini blade fuses, and beefy high-amperage MAXI fuses, each one picked for different electrical loads. This multi-fuse system is a core part of the vw t5 fuse box diagram, making sure both delicate electronics and high-power circuits get the protection they need.

Recognising Fuse Types and Ratings

Luckily, identifying the right fuse is straightforward once you know the colour-coding system. Each fuse’s amperage rating is tied to a specific colour, a universal standard that makes finding a replacement dead simple.

• Standard and Mini Blade Fuses: These are the ones you’ll see most often, protecting circuits like your radio, interior lights, and windscreen wipers. The colours are pretty standard: tan (5A), red (10A), blue (15A), and yellow (20A).
• MAXI Fuses: These are the bigger, chunkier fuses that handle the heavy-duty circuits like the alternator, cooling fans, and ABS system. They use a similar colour code but for much higher ratings, like yellow (20A), green (30A), and orange (40A).

Always, always match both the colour and the amperage number printed on top of the fuse. Sticking the wrong rating in there is a serious fire risk.

The Logic Behind the Multi-Panel Design

Volkswagen didn’t just scatter fuse boxes around the van for fun. The multi-panel layout—usually one in the dash, another under a seat, and one in the engine bay—is a smart design choice to improve reliability and make fault-finding easier. By keeping circuits separate, a fault in a non-essential system (like the cigarette lighter) stays isolated and won’t take down critical functions like the engine management or safety systems.

The way the fuse holders themselves are built also says a lot about durability, especially for rough UK roads. For instance, compartments holding high-current fuses often use Torx T20 screws for a secure, vibration-proof fit. This protects major circuits, like the massive 225A alternator fuse, from the elements and road buzz. It’s a robust design that’s essential for vans that are often towing or carrying heavy loads, ensuring those systems stay reliable.

Getting these fundamentals down is crucial. For anyone planning more serious electrical work, like a full campervan conversion, our guide on campervan electrical systems explained is the next step you’ll need. This grounding in the basics will help you tackle any electrical job with a bit more confidence.

Interior Fuse Box Diagram And Functions

Whenever you’re chasing down an electrical glitch in your VW T5, the interior fuse box is almost always your first stop. Tucked out of the way yet easy to reach, it guards everyday accessories—think radio, 12 V sockets and cabin lights—from overloads. Familiarising yourself with this panel means quicker roadside repairs and far less guesswork.

Below, you’ll find a crystal-clear, annotated VW T5 interior fuse box diagram for the main cabin unit. It’s laid out so you can pinpoint the right fuse at a glance and get back on the road without delay.

Key Interior Circuits And Their Fuses

Inside your T5’s cabin fuse box, you’ll find protection for all the components that make life in the van comfortable. Layouts shift slightly depending on year and trim, but you’ll almost always see the radio, 12 V power outlets and interior lamps covered here.

The VW Transporter T5 (2003–2015) saw its fuse architecture grow more sophisticated over the years. In the facelifted T5.1 (2010–2015), for example, there are multiple fuse panels handling everything from passenger lighting to trailer-recognition modules. Fuse sizes range from 5 A mini-ATO blades right up to MAXI 80 A for the battery-isolation relay and MAXI 40 A for sliding-door motors. Depending on your spec (Camper Beach, Police, Day Van, etc.), you’ll notice slight shifts in where certain fuses live—but the core functions remain constant. Volkswagen’s approach here balances safety and reliability for the broad range of UK roles these vans fill.

VW T5 Interior Fuse Box Reference Chart

Below is your go-to reference for the main cabin fuse box. Each row tells you the fuse number, its amperage, standard colour and the circuit it protects. When you spot a blown fuse, always swap in an identical amperage unit—mixing ratings risks serious damage or even fire.

Fuse Number	Amperage (A)	Colour	Protected Circuit / Function
1	5	Tan	Number Plate Light
2	10	Red	High Beam Headlight (Right)
3	10	Red	High Beam Headlight (Left)
4	5	Tan	Side Light (Right)
5	5	Tan	Side Light (Left)
8	10	Red	ABS, ESP Control Unit
12	10	Red	Data Link Connector (OBD Port)
13	10	Red	Brake Light Switch
14	10	Red	Interior Lights, Central Locking
15	5	Tan	Instrument Cluster, On-Board Computer
16	10	Red	Air Conditioning (AC) System
17	10	Red	Heated Mirrors, Heated Rear Window
19	10	Red	Radio, Infotainment System
20	20	Yellow	Horn
21	15	Blue	Windscreen Wiper Motor
22	20	Yellow	Cigarette Lighter / 12 V Socket
23	25	Clear/White	Electric Window Motor (Driver)
24	25	Clear/White	Electric Window Motor (Passenger)
30	15	Blue	Sunroof Control Module
32	30	Green	Blower Motor (Fan), Heater Control

Use this chart as your first checkpoint when diagnosing cabin electrics. And remember, replacing a blown fuse with the exact same amperage is non-negotiable for safety and system integrity.

Quick Tip: The two fuses that fail most often here are 19 (Radio) and 22 (Cigarette Lighter). If both die at once, start with these—chasing them down first can save hours of trial and error.

Right, let’s get into the serious stuff. Away from the cabin fuses that handle your radio and wipers, the T5 has a couple of other fuse boxes that are absolutely critical. We’re talking about the engine bay and the under-seat locations. These protect the bits that actually make the van go, and all the clever factory-fit extras or campervan gear. If you’re scratching your head over a more serious fault, this is where you need to be looking.

The engine bay fuse box is your first stop for any major running issues. It’s packed with high-amperage fuses protecting the absolute essentials. Got a no-start situation, overheating, or a major system failure? Get the bonnet up. It’s tucked away near the battery, usually under a black plastic cover held on with clips or a few Torx screws.

Then there’s the under-seat fuse box, often found lurking beneath the driver’s or passenger’s seat. This one is especially important in high-spec vans or camper conversions. It’s where VW put the circuits for factory options like auxiliary heaters, and it’s where you’ll find the guts of a split-charge system for a leisure battery.

Engine Bay Fuse Box Layout and Functions

This fuse box is the nerve centre for your T5’s heavy-duty electrics. When a fuse blows here, it’s rarely subtle. You’re usually looking at a significant problem, like the engine refusing to turn over or critical safety systems like the ABS going offline. The table below covers the most common circuits you’ll find here. Just be aware that the exact numbering can shift slightly between the pre-facelift T5 and the later T5.1, so always use this as your starting point.

Fuse Number (Typical)	Amperage (A)	Protected Circuit / Function
F5	40	ABS Hydraulic Pump Motor
F6	30	Radiator Cooling Fan (Stage 1)
F7	40	Radiator Cooling Fan (Stage 2)
F8	20	Horn Relay
F12	15	Fuel Pump Relay
F18	10	Engine Control Unit (ECU)
F21	30	Starter Motor Solenoid

A word of warning: if a fuse in this box blows repeatedly, it’s often a red flag for a bigger issue than just a faulty component. For example, a cooling fan fuse that keeps popping could point to a seized fan motor drawing way too much current. Ignore that, and you’re on a fast track to overheating your engine.

Under-Seat and Ancillary Fuse Locations

For a lot of us, especially those with campers or work vans loaded with gear, the electrics don’t stop in the engine bay. Volkswagen often installed another fuse panel under one of the front seats to handle all the optional high-draw equipment. This was a smart move, as it keeps these power-hungry circuits separate from the main vehicle wiring loom, which is great for reliability.

This is the typical home for fuses that protect:

• Leisure Battery Systems: Covering the split-charge relay and the various outputs from your second battery.
• Auxiliary Heaters: Safeguarding those powerful diesel heaters from brands like Eberspächer or Webasto.
• Power Inverters: Managing the high-current devices that turn your 12V DC into 240V AC.
• Factory Upgrades: Fuses for things like electric sliding doors, heated seats, or upgraded sound systems.

A classic problem that stumps many owners is the dreaded “parasitic drain” – where the battery mysteriously goes flat overnight. More often than not, the culprit is a faulty component or a short circuit in one of these ancillary systems. The first diagnostic step is always to start pulling fuses from the under-seat box to isolate which circuit is causing the drain.

How to Safely Check and Replace a Blown Fuse

Knowing your way around the VW T5 fuse box diagram is one thing, but actually swapping a dead fuse is the practical skill every owner needs to get their head around. The good news is, it’s a straightforward job. But getting the safety steps right is absolutely crucial to avoid a nasty shock or, worse, frying your van’s delicate electronics.

Before you even think about touching the fuse box, your first and most important step is always to turn off the ignition. Don’t just turn the engine off; take the key right out. This cuts the power to the circuits, making everything safe to handle.

Next, find the right fuse panel using the diagrams from earlier and pop the cover off. You’ll probably find a little plastic fuse puller tool clipped inside the cover – a handy little thing. Use this to get a firm grip on the head of the fuse you suspect has blown and pull it straight out.

Confirming a Blown Fuse

Once you’ve got the fuse out, you need to be sure it’s actually the culprit. Most of the time, a quick look is all it takes.

• Look for a broken metal filament: Hold the fuse up to the light. Inside that coloured plastic body, there’s a thin metal strip shaped like an ‘S’. If that strip is broken or has a black, sooty-looking gap in it, the fuse is toast.
• Check for discolouration: Any scorching marks or signs of melted plastic on the casing are dead giveaways that the fuse has failed under pressure from an overload.

Sometimes, though, a fuse can fail without any obvious visual signs. If you’ve got a fault that looks fine, you need a more reliable method. Learning about using a multimeter for fuse testing is a game-changer for quickly and accurately spotting the faulty fuse when your eyes can’t.

Installing the Correct Replacement

Right, this is the most critical bit of the whole process. You must replace the blown fuse with a new one that has the exact same amperage rating. A 10A fuse gets replaced with a 10A fuse. No ifs, no buts. The amperage is always printed clearly on top of the fuse and is also colour-coded (for instance, 10A is always red).

Safety Warning: Never, ever be tempted to stick in a fuse with a higher amperage rating. All that does is let way too much current flow through the circuit, which can melt wires, destroy expensive electronic modules, and create a very real fire risk. It’s just not worth it.

Gently but firmly push the new fuse into the empty slot until it clicks securely into place. Understanding this fundamental safety rule is absolutely vital, especially for anyone tackling bigger projects like installing a 12V and 240V campervan system.

Once the new fuse is in, pop the key back in the ignition and test whatever wasn’t working. If the new fuse blows straight away, you’ve got a bigger problem on your hands – most likely a short circuit somewhere in the wiring that needs investigating.

Right then, let’s get into the gremlins. Electrical issues in a T5 are usually more annoying than serious, but figuring them out can feel like chasing ghosts. A dead radio or a 12V socket that won’t charge your phone can properly ruin a trip.

Nine times out of ten, the problem is a simple fuse. Before you start pulling trim apart or booking it into a garage, a few minutes with the fuse box can save you a world of time and money. This section will walk you through the logical steps to find the culprit quickly.

Common T5 Fuse Faults (And How to Fix Them)

Right, here’s the stuff that actually goes wrong. Based on T5 ownership and way too many forum threads.

1. Interior Lights Dead

Symptoms: Cab lights, load area lights, or all interior lighting stops working. Door-open warning light might be on permanently.

Usual cause: F3 blown (dashboard fuse box)

Why it happens:

• Dodgy bulb drawing too much current as it fails
• Aftermarket LED light strips wired incorrectly
• Water ingress shorting a light fitting
• Faulty door switch

Fix:

1. Check F3 (usually 10A) — if blown, replace
2. If it blows again immediately, there’s a short somewhere
3. Disconnect any aftermarket lighting you’ve added
4. Check for water in light fittings (common in rear barn doors)
5. Test door switches by disconnecting them one by one

I had this on my conversion. Water had got into a rear light cluster, corroded the connections, caused a short. Dried it out, replaced the bulb holder, problem solved.

2. 12V Socket Not Working

Symptoms: Cigarette lighter socket or auxiliary 12V point dead. Nothing gets power when plugged in.

Usual cause: F13 or F14 blown (dashboard fuse box)

Why it happens:

• Cheap Chinese phone charger drawing surge current
• Tyre compressor exceeding fuse rating
• Foreign object (coin, etc.) in socket causing short
• Worn socket with exposed terminals

Fix:

1. Check the fuse — usually 15A or 20A
2. Inspect the socket itself — is something stuck in there?
3. Replace the fuse
4. Test with a known-good device (not the dodgy compressor that probably blew it)
5. If it blows again, the socket’s probably knackered

Pro tip: If you’re running a decent compressor or an inverter, hardwire it directly to the leisure battery with proper fusing. Don’t rely on the 12V socket — it’s not designed for sustained high current.

3. Central Locking Stopped Working

Symptoms: Key fob doesn’t lock/unlock, or only works intermittently. Manual lock still works fine.

Usual cause: F8 or F9 blown (dashboard box), or the fuse is fine and it’s actually a failing pump/motor

Why it happens:

• Actuator motor in one of the doors drawing too much current as it wears out
• Water damage to central locking pump
• Key fob battery dying (check this first before blaming fuses)

Fix:

1. Try a new battery in the key fob — seriously, start here
2. If that doesn’t work, check F8/F9 in the dashboard box
3. Fuse is fine? It’s probably a door actuator failing
4. You’ll hear clicking from the door that’s struggling
5. Common on sliding doors — the actuator’s under the floor, gets damp, corrodes

Central locking faults on T5s are notorious. Often it’s not the fuse, it’s a £30 actuator that’s on its way out. But always check the fuse first because it’s free and takes 10 seconds.

4. Headlights Flickering or Dead

Symptoms: One or both headlights not working, or flickering randomly. Main beam might work while dipped doesn’t, or vice versa.

Usual cause: F3 in engine bay box (30-50A Maxi fuse), or bulb failure, or connector corrosion

Why it happens:

• High-current draw from old or aftermarket bulbs
• Corroded headlight connectors
• Water ingress in headlight unit
• Faulty headlight switch

Fix:

1. Check both headlight bulbs first — one could be blown
2. Check F3 in the engine bay fuse box (large Maxi fuse)
3. Inspect headlight connectors for corrosion or melting
4. Test with another known-good bulb
5. Check the headlight switch isn’t faulty

I’ve seen this where someone fitted aftermarket HID or LED bulbs without proper wiring. Drew too much initial current, blew the fuse, then blew it again when replaced. Stick to standard H7 or H4 bulbs unless you’re doing a proper retrofit.

5. Auxiliary Heater Won’t Start

Symptoms: Webasto or Eberspächer diesel heater doesn’t fire up. Control unit might show error codes.

Usual cause: F20 blown (dashboard box), or it’s the fuel pump/glow plug, or the heater’s actually fine and it’s a timer setting issue

Why it happens:

• Heater fault causing overcurrent
• Control unit glitch
• Incorrect installation (common on DIY fits)

Fix:

1. Check F20 in dashboard box (usually 15A)
2. If blown, there’s probably a heater fault
3. Check heater error codes via the control unit
4. Could be fuel pump, glow plug, or combustion chamber issue
5. These are complex — if fuse keeps blowing, get it checked

Auxiliary heaters are brilliant but temperamental. If the fuse is fine and it still won’t start, you’re into diagnostic territory beyond fuses.

6. Fuel Pump Issues (Won’t Start)

Symptoms: Engine cranks but won’t fire. No fuel pump priming noise when ignition turned on.

Usual cause: F5 in engine bay (30A), or relay failure, or actual fuel pump death

Why it happens:

• Fuel pump wearing out and drawing excessive current
• Relay contacts failing
• Wiring issue to pump

Fix:

1. Turn ignition to position 2 (don’t start) — should hear fuel pump prime for 2-3 seconds
2. Don’t hear it? Check F5 in engine bay box
3. Fuse fine? Check the fuel pump relay
4. Swap relay with another identical one to test
5. Still nothing? Pump’s probably dead

This one stranded me in Wales. Turned out to be the relay, not the fuse. Always keep a spare fuel pump relay.

7. Cooling Fan Not Running

Symptoms: Engine overheating, coolant temperature warning light on, but you can see the fan isn’t spinning when it should be.

Usual cause: F4 in engine bay (40A Maxi fuse), fan relay failure, or fan motor itself

Why it happens:

• Fan motor bearings seizing (common on high-mileage vans)
• Relay failure
• Temperature sensor fault telling the fan not to run

Fix:

1. Let engine cool down first
2. Check F4 in engine bay — large Maxi fuse
3. Check cooling fan relay(s) — there might be two for different speeds
4. Try turning the fan blade by hand (engine cold!) — should spin freely
5. If it’s stiff or doesn’t spin, motor’s seized

Don’t mess about with cooling fan issues. Overheating will wreck your engine. If it’s not the fuse or relay, get it sorted ASAP.

How to Check and Replace Fuses

Sounds obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people do this wrong.

What you need:

• Spare fuses (assorted ratings)
• Fuse puller (small plastic tool, usually in the fuse box lid)
• Torch
• Your van’s fuse diagram

Checking a fuse:

1. Turn off everything electrical
2. Remove the fuse using the plastic puller tool
3. Hold it up to the light
4. Look through the clear plastic window
5. Is the metal strip inside broken? It’s blown
6. Still looks intact? Test it with a multimeter to be sure

Fuses can look fine but have a hairline break. If in doubt, swap it with a known-good one of the same rating.

Replacing a fuse:

1. Match the amp rating exactly — don’t stick a 20A in a 10A slot
2. Push it fully into the slot — should click home
3. Test whatever wasn’t working
4. Works? Job done
5. Blows immediately again? You’ve got a short or a failing component

Never:

• Use a higher-rated fuse “just to get home”
• Bridge fuses with wire or foil
• Ignore repeated fuse failures

If a fuse keeps blowing, there’s a reason. Find it, or you’ll end up with melted wiring and a much bigger problem.

T5 Fuse Box Quirks & Common Questions

Why do some fuse positions have nothing in them? Different spec levels. A basic panel van doesn’t have heated seats or parking sensors, so those fuse positions are empty. Convenient if you’re adding aftermarket equipment — there are often spare circuits you can tap into.

Can I add equipment to empty fuse slots? Sometimes. Depends if the wiring loom has those circuits installed. Some vans have the wiring but no fuse, some have neither. Check before you start connecting stuff.

My fuse keeps blowing even though nothing’s obviously wrong. There’s a short somewhere. Could be:

• Chafed wiring rubbing against metal
• Water ingress causing corrosion
• Aftermarket equipment poorly installed
• Component failing internally

Start disconnecting things one by one until the fuse stops blowing. That’ll tell you which circuit’s faulty.

Are T5 and T5.1 fuse boxes the same? Mostly, but not identical. T5.1 (2010-2015) has some additional circuits for newer equipment. Always check your specific model year.

Where can I get a replacement fuse diagram?

• Check owner’s manual
• Download from VW Transporter forum (tons of them scanned)
• Email VW with your VIN — they’ll send you a diagram
• Take a photo of someone else’s at a meetup

What if I can’t find the fuse that’s blown? Work through them methodically with a multimeter. Pain in the arse, but it works. Or take it to a sparky who knows T5s — they’ll find it in 10 minutes.

Keeping Spare Fuses (What You Actually Need)

Don’t buy those massive fuse sets with 200 pieces. Half of them you’ll never use.

For a T5, keep:

• 5A fuses x 3
• 10A fuses x 5 (most common)
• 15A fuses x 5 (second most common)
• 20A fuses x 3
• 25A fuses x 2
• 30A fuses x 2
• 30A Maxi fuse x 1
• 40A Maxi fuse x 1
• 50A Maxi fuse x 1

Store them in a small plastic box in the glovebox. You’ll thank yourself when something blows at midnight in a layby.

Also keep:

• Spare relays (get part numbers for fuel pump and cooling fan relays)
• Fuse puller tool
• Small torch
• Multimeter if you’re keen

When It’s Not the Fuse

Sometimes you’ll check every fuse, everything looks fine, but something still doesn’t work. Welcome to electrical troubleshooting.

Could be:

• Relay failure — more common than fuse failure on some circuits
• Wiring break — especially common on sliding door circuits
• Earth/ground fault — corroded earth point causing issues
• Component failure — the thing itself is knackered, not the fuse protecting it
• Control module issue — modern vans have computers everywhere

If you’ve checked all the relevant fuses and they’re fine, you’re into proper diagnostic work. Might be time for a garage with VW diagnostics equipment.

Final Thoughts

The T5 fuse boxes aren’t complicated once you know where everything is. Dashboard box handles interior stuff, engine bay handles the heavy-duty systems. Most common faults are simple: 12V socket, interior lights, central locking.

Keep spare fuses. Check the obvious stuff first. Don’t assume it’s something complex when it’s usually a £0.20 fuse.

And if a fuse keeps blowing repeatedly? Find out why before you do permanent damage to the wiring. That’s when a cheap fix becomes an expensive nightmare.

Been there. Learned that. Hopefully this guide saves you the same hassle.